r  A  R  F 


OF  THE 
U  N  I  ITY 
or  ILLINOIS 

91 T.  4-1 
F24.1 
1689 


The  person  charging  this  material  is  re- 
sponsible for  its  return  on  or  before  the 
Latest  Date  stamped  below. 

Theft,  mutilation,  and  underlining  of  books 
are  reasons  for  disciplinary  action  and  may 
result  in  dismissal  from  the  University. 

University  of  Illinois  Library 


L161— O-1096 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


FARRAR'S 

ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES 

ILLUSTRATED. 

A  complete  and  reliable  Guide  to  the  entire  Androscoggin  Lakes 
Region,  including 

OQUOSSOC  (or  Rangeley),  MOOSELUCMAGUNTIC  (or 
Great  Lake),  CUPSUPTIC,  MOLECHUCKAMUCK  (or 
Upper  Richardson),  WELOKENNEBACOOK  (or  Lower 
Richardson),  and  UMBAGOG. 

Also, 

Kennebago  and  Parmachenee  Lakes, 

The  Seven  Ponds,  the  Connecticut  Lakes, 

The  Dead  River  Region, 

Dixville  Notch,  Grafton  Notch, 

and  the  headwaters  of  the 

Connecticut,  Androscoggin,  Magalloway, 

Sandy  and  Dead  Rivers. 

With  a  new  and  correct  Large  Map,  22x26  inches,  of  the  entire 
region,  and  the  latest  revised  Game  and  Game-Fish  Laws  of 
Maine  and  New  Hampshire. 

Finely  Illustrated  with  eighty  choice  engravings  on  wood. 

368  paps,  tiandsoniely  bouod  in  clotli,  $1.00. 

Mailed  to  any  address  on  receipt  of  price  by 

JAMAICA  PUBLISHING  COMPANY, 

JAMAICA  PLAIN,  MASS. 


SPECIAL  NOTICES. 


FARRAR'S  POCKET  MAP 

OF  THE 

Androscoggin  Lakes  Region, 

UMBAGOG,  RANGELEY,  RICHARDSON, 

PARMACHENEE,  KENNEBAGO, 
AND  CONNECTICUT  LAKES, 

AND  THE  HEADWATERS  OF  THE 

ANDROSCOGGIN,    DEAD,    SANDY,  MAGALLOWAY, 
DIAMOND,  AND  CONNECTICUT  RIVERS, 

DIXVILLE   NOTCH    AND   CAMBRIDGE,  N.  H. 

Mounted  on  cloth,  neatly  folded,  and  bound  in  durable  cloth  covers. 
Indispensable  to  the  sportsman  and  Tourist  visiting  the  Lakes. 
Pronounced  by  competent  judges  to  be  the  best  and  most  correct  map  of  this 
country  ever  made. 

Liarge  size,  22x26  inches.   Price,  $1.00. 

May  be  obtained  at  any  bookstore,  or  will  be  sent  by  mail,  postage  paid,  on 
receipt  of  price,  by 

JAMAICA   PUBLISHING  COMPANY, 

JAMAICA  PLAIN,  MASS. 


FARRAR'S  POCKET  MAP 

OF 

MOOSEHEAD  LAKE  AND  VICINITY 

NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 

Printed  on  tough  linen  paper,  and  handsomely  bound  in  cloth  covers. 

Large  size,  19x24  inches.   Price,  50  cents. 

Every  Tourist,  Sportsman,  Hunter,  and  Lumberman  should  have  one  of  these 
maps.   It  includes  the  headwaters  of  the 

Kennebec,  Penobscot,  Aroostook  and 
St.  John  Rivers,  and  their 
Principal  Branches. 

Sent  by  mail,  postpaid,  to  any  address,  on  receipt  of  price,  by 

JAMAICA   PUBLISHING  COMPANY, 

JAMAICA  PLAIN,  MASS. 


L 


KATAHDIN    IliOX    WORKS  AND  VICINITY,   THE  NORTH    MAINE  WILDERNESS, 
AND  THE  HEAD  WATERS  OF  THE   DEAD,   KENNEHEC,  PENOB- 
SCOT,  AROOSTOOK,  AND  ST.  JOHN  RIVERS. 


WITH 

A  NEW  AND  CORRECT  MAP  OF  THE  LAKE  REGION, 

DRAWN  AND  PRINTED  EXPRESSLY  FOR  THIS  BOOK. 

ALSO  CONTAINS  THE 
-GAME  AND  FISH  LAWS  OF  MAINE  (AS  REVISED  BY  THE  LAST  LEGISLATURE), 
RAILROAD,  STEAMBOAT  AND  STAGE   ROUTES,  TIME   TABLES,  TABLE 
OF  FARES,  LIST  OF  HOTELS,  PRICES  OF  BOARD,  AND  OTHER 
VALUABLE  INFORMATION  FOR  THE  SPORTSMAN, 
TOURIST,  OR  PLEASURE-SEEKER. 

BY 

CAPT.  CHARLES  A.  J.  FARRAR, 

AUTHOR  OF 

''ANDROSCOGGIN  LAKES."  ILLUSTRATHO,       CAMP  LIFE  IN  THE  WILDERNESS," 
"  THE  LAKE  AND  FOREST  SERIES,"      FROM  LAKE  TO  LAKE,"  ETC. 


BOSTON: 
LEE    ANTD  SHEPARD. 

JAMAICA  PUBLISHING  COMPANY, 
Jamaica  Plain,  Mass. 
1889. 


Copyright,  1889, 
Charles  A.  J.  Farrar. 


The  illustrations  in  this  book  have  been  engraved  and  reproduced  from 
original  drawings  and  stereoscopic  views  made  at  the  places  represented,  by 
the  best  artists  in  their  respective  lines  of  business  that  could  be  procured. 


C.  J.  PETERS  &  SON, 
Typographers  and  Electrotypers, 
145  High  Street,  Boston. 

Press  of  Berwick  and  Smith,  Boston. 


PREFACE. 


IN  presenting  the  ninth  edition  of  Moosehead  Lake  and  Tim 
North  Maine  Wilderness  to  the  reading  public,  the  author 
gratefully  acknowledges  the  kind  reception  of  the  other  eight 
editions. 

The  encomiums  from  private  individuals,  and  the  encouraging 
words  of  appreciation  from  the  press,  have  awakened  in  him 
the  desire  to  make  the  work  as  nearly  perfect  as  jiossible,  and 
to  that  end  he  has  given  the  rewriting  and  revision  of  the  book 
this  year  more  careful  attention  than  ever  before,  and  the  present 
edition  is  an  improvement  over  former  ones  in  many  respects ; 
and  he  hopes  to  keep  the  work  up  to  its  present  high  standard 
o*f  excellence. 

The  author  has  endeavored  to  make  this  volume  pleasant  and 
interesting, — a  welcome  addition  to  the  family  librar}',  as  well 
as  to  that  of  the  sportsman ;  and,  while  reliable  and  instructive, 
he  has  tried  to  impart  information  without  the  dry  paragraphing 
common  to  most  guide-books. 

By  means  of  our  little  book  thousands  have  become  acquamted 
with  the  Moosehead  Lake  Region  in  the  past  ten  years  that  had 
never  heard  of  or  visited  it  before ;  and  we  hope  that  through 
its  influence  thousands  more  may  visit  this  beautiful  summer 
resort,  where  everything  combines  towards  one's  pleasure  and 
health. 

The  building  of  the  International  Railway  of  Maine  (Canadian 
Pacific)  from  Lake  Megantic  via  Moosehead  Lake  to  Mattawam- 
keag,  not  only  gives  a  new  all-rail  route  to  Moosehead  Lake, 


8 


PREFACE. 


but  has  opened  up  hundreds  of  choice  phiees  for  the  sportsman 
and  tourist  along  its  line  in  Maine  that  were  formerly  only 
accessible  by  long  and  tiresome  travelling  by  stage.  Before  the 
coming  of  another  year  the  Dexter  Branch  of  the  Maine  Central 
will  have  been  extended  to  a  junction  with  the  Bangor  and 
Piscataquis  at  Dover,  cutting  off  over  sixty  miles  of  the  distance 
between  Boston  and  Greenville,  enablmg  those  visitors  who  are 
pressed  for  time  to  leave  Boston  in  the  morning,  and  sleep  at 
night  of  the  same  day  under  the  hospitable  roof  of  the  Mount 
Kineo  House. 

It  is  the  desire  of  the  author  in  this  volume  not  only  to  give  a 
correct  description  of  the  country  to  which  he  invites  the  atten- 
tion of  the  travelling  public,  but  also  to  thoroughly  j^ost  them 
up  in  all  the  details  of  route,  expense,  hotels,  and  other  little 
matters  that  one  so  anxiously  inquires  about,  when  contemplat- 
ing a  first  visit  to  a  strange  place. 

While  he  is  not  egotistical  enough  to  declare  that  he  has 
wholly  succeeded  in  his  wishes,  he  is  certain  that  for  any  person 
making  a  first  trip  to  Moosehead  Lake  the  book  will  prove  in- 
valuable, and  that  it  will  even  be  read  with  interest  by  the  older 
habitues  of  this  noted  locality. 

This  ninth  edition  has  been  rewritten  and  carefully  revised- 
About  eighty  pages  of  new  reading-matter  have  been  added, 
also  forty-five  illustrations.  It  is  the  author's  intention  to  have 
the  book  keep  pace  with  and  faithfully  chronicle  all  changes 
and  improvements  in  the  entire  Moosehead  Lake  Region. 

With  the  promise  that  any  mistakes,  omissions,  or  errors,  that 
occur  in  the  present  volume,  will  be  carefully  corrected  in  the 
next  edition,  he  calls  the  attention  of  his  readers  to  the  follow- 
ing chapters,  hoping  they  may  find  much  of  interest. 

CHARLES  A.  J.  FARRAR. 
RocKviEw,  Jamaica  Plain,  May  1,  1889. 


CONTENTS. 


I.  Rail  and  Steamboat  Routes  from  Boston  and  Portland 

TO  Moosehead  Lake  13 

II.  Canadian  Pacific  Route  (International  Railway  of 
Maine)  from  Canada  to  Moosehead  Lake  and  Matta- 

WAMKEAG  35 

III.  From  Milo  Junction  to  Brownville  and  Katahdin  Iron- 

Works.  —  Fishing  Resorts  in  the  Vicinity.  —  The  Gulf 
and  its  Surroundings  45 

IV.  MoNSON  and  Vicinity.  — a  Pleasant  Summer  Resort  for 

the  Tourist  and  Fisherman   56 

V.  Greenville  and  its  Attractions   09 

VI.  Up  the  Lake.  — From  Greenville  to  Mount  Kineo    ...  82 

VII.   Kineo,  its  Legend,  Hotel,  Sights,  Fishing,  etc   93 

VIII.  Two  Routes  from  Boston  to  Moos>:head  Lake  via  the 
Forks  of  the  Kennebec  and  Moose  River.  —  First  Route 

via  Oakland,  Solon,  and  Bingha:m   122 

IX.  From  Kineo  to  the  Head  of  the  Lake   152 

X.  Camping  Out   102 

XI.   The  Head  of  the  Lake  and  its  Surroundings.  —  Where 

to  go. —  What  to  See.  —  Fishing,  Hunting,  etc   173 

XII.   Tours  beyond  Moosehead.  —  Down  the  West  Branch   .   .  181 

XIII.  The  Ascent  OF  Mount  Ktaadn.— Four  Different  Accounts  203 

XIV.  Down  the  West  Branch,  concluded   239 

XV.   Tours  Beyond  Moosehead.  — Down  the  East  Branch  of 

THE  Penobscot.— Up  the  North  Branch  of  the  Penob- 
scot   243 

XVI.  Tours  Beyond   Moosehead. —The    Allagash  Waters.— 

Aroostook  River  Route.  — Down  the  St.  John  River    .  257 

XVII.   Game  Laws  of  Maine,  as  aimended   269 

XVIII.   Game-Fish  Laws  of  Maine,  as  AMENDED   273 

XIX.   List  of  Hotels,  Acco3imodations,  Rates,  etc   283 

XX.  Table  of  Fares   285 


9 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE 

Face  in  the  Rock  and  Jaws  of  the  Gulf  Frontispiece 

Initial  Letter,  S   13 

Union  Station,  Portland   li 

Salmon  Fishing,  Bangor   27 

Tail  piece,  Trout   34^ 

Initial  Letter,  T   35 

Long  Pond  Outlet,  Moose  River   37 

Map  of  Moosehead  Lake   41 

Initial  Letter,  C   45 

Billings'  Falls,  West  Branch  Pleasant  River,  Me   51 

Initial  Letter,  M   56 

Lake  Hebron  Hotel,  Monson,  Me   57 

Lake  Hebron,  looking  West   61 

Lake  Onaway  and  Boarstone  Mountain   65 

Initial  Letter,  T   61> 

Lake  House,  Greenville,  Me   71 

Squaw  Mountain   75 

Little  Squaw  Mountain   75 

Moosehead  Lake,  from  Indian  Hill   77 

Tail-piece,  Birch  Canoes   81 

Initial  Letter,  A   82 

Mount  Kineo  House,  Moosehead  Lake   85 

Cedar  Beach,  North  of  Mount  Kineo   8^ 

Tail-piece,  Camping  Out   92 

Initial  Letter,  M   9^ 

View  from  Piazza  of  Mount  Kineo  House,  looking  West   97 

Looking  up  Moose  River   104 

Socatean  Falls   107 

View  from  Mount  Kineo   Ill 

Inspection  of  a  Day's  Fishing   117 

Tail-piece,  Trout  Brook   121 

Initial  Letter,  O   122 

Hotel  Heselton,  Skowhegan,  Me   12» 

Morrill's  Camp,  Moxie  Pond   135 

The  Forks  of  the  Kennebec   139 

Rapids  on  Moose  River,  Outlet  of  Brassau  Lake   145 

Mount  Kineo  from  Mouth  of  Moose  River   149 

11 


12  LIST  OF  ILLUSTKATIONS. 

,    .  .  ,  PAGE 

Initial  Letter,  S   252 

Mount  Kineo  from  North  Bay   153 

Ox-liailroad  Train  leaving  tlie  Station   157 

Indian  Camp  at  JS'ortli-east  Carry  »   IgQ 

Tail-piece,  Up  the  Kapius  !  101 

Initial  Letter,  1*                                                                                  *  162 

Camp  at  Head  of  Lake  ,    .   .    ,       **.'**    '  165 

Landing  the  Canoes  ,  •   •    •  ^^^^ 

Tail-piece,  Logging  Camp  ,*!!** 

Initial  Letter,  VV  *.!*.''.**'  173 

The  Camper-Out                                                                          '    *    *    '  175 

Initial  Letter,  11  !!!!!!  18^ 

Mouth  of  Pine  Stream   184 

A  Trapper's  Camp  ^   187 

liipogenus  Lake   191 

Head  of  liipogenus  Falls   191 

Mount  Ktaadn  from  Ripogenus  Falls   191 

View  from  the  Clitf,  Ripogenus  Falls   193 

The  Big  Heater,  Ripogenus  Falls   193 

Views  in  Ripogenus  Falls  .   195 

Under  the  Cliffs,  Ripogenus  Falls   197 

Mount  Ktaadn  from  Aboljackarmegas  Falls   201 

Initial  Letter,  T   203 

Camp  at  the  Foot  of  the  Slide   204 

I^ead  of  Slide,  Looking  up   205 

Head  of  Slide,  Looking  down   205 

Lake  Basin  from  Monument  Cliff   207 

Gorge,  looking  down  towards  Basin  -    .  207 

Lake  Millinocket   213 

Mountain  Brook   217 

The  Tableland,  Mount  Ktaadn   224 

The  Summit,  Mount  Ktaadn   224 

Foot  of  South-west  Slide,  Mount  Ktaadn   235 

Mount  Ktaadn  from  Katepskonegan  Lake   240 

Mount  Ktaadn  from  Ambajejus  Lake   240 

Initial  Letter,  I   243 

Head  of  a  Maine  Moose   255 

Initial  Letter,  O   257 

Tail-piece,  Ready  for  Home  .    .    ,   281 

Moosehead   282 

Tail-piece,  The  End  of  it  All   287 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD   LAKE  AND 
NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


CHAPTER  1. 

RAIL  AND   STEA3IBOAT  ROUTES  FROM  BOSTON  AND 
PORTLAND  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE. 

ELECTING  Boston  as  our  starting-point,  the 
most  direct  route  is  by  night  train  to  Bangor. 
This  train,  known  as  ^'  The  Pullman,"  leaves 
the  Eastern  Depot,  Causeway,  foot  of  Friend 
Street,  at  7.00  p.m.,  running  over  the  Eastern 
Division  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad  to 
Portland,  thence  over  the  Maine  Central  Rail- 
road to  Bangor,  arriving  the  following  morning  about  6.00  o'clock, 
giving  ample  time  before  the  departure  of  the  other  train  to  take 
breakfast  at  the  saloon  in  the  depot,  first-class  in  every  respect,  or  at 
one  of  the  hotels  in  the  city.  Baggage  is  checked  from  Boston  to 
Greenville. 

The  Pullman  car-fare  for  a  so-called,  but  not  in  reality,  double 
berth  between  Boston  and  Bangor  is  $2.00;  for  a  section,  $4.00. 

If  you  prefer  to  leave  Boston  in  the  morning,  which  the  greater 
part  of  the  visitors  to  Moosehead  do,  you  take  the  9.00  o'clock  train 
from  the  Eastern  Depot,  running  over  the  Eastern  Division,  making 
comparatively  few  stops  along  the  route,  arriving  in  Portland  at 
12.35  P.M.,  having  ample  time  to  secure  a  first-class  dinner  at  the 
fine  saloon  in  the  Grand  Union  Station  before  the  train  leaves  for 
Bangor.  A  Pullman  parlor  car  accompanies  this  train;  and  a  seat 
from  Boston  to  Bangor  will  cost  you  $1.00.  Or,  if  you  have  any 
preference,  you  can  take  the  8.30  a.m.  train  from  the  Boston  &  Maine 
Depot,  Haymarket  Square,  running  over  the  AYestern  Division,  arriv- 
ing in  Portland  at  12.20  p.m.,  and,  landing  in  the  Union  Depot,  take 

13 


14 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


dinner,  then  continue  your  journey  by  the  Maine  Central.  If  you  are 
making  your  first  trip  to  Mooseliead,  by  going  east  over  one  route, 
and  coming  back  by  the  other,  which  you  can  do  on  the  same  ticket, 
and  without  additional  expense,  you  see  a  good  deal  more  of  the 
country,  and  the  scenery  by  both  routes  is  very  attractive.  This  you 
can  also  do  on  the  Maine  Central  between  Portland  and  Waterville; 
and  the  views  either  way  are  charming. 

One  can  also  leave  Boston  at  7.00  p.m.  each  evening  from  India 
Wharf,  by  one  of  the  fine  boats  of  the  Portland  Steam  Packet  Com- 


NEW  UNION  STATK^N,  PORTLAND,  ME. 


pany,  and  arrive  in  Portland  the  next  morning  in  ample  season  to  take 
the  morning  train  to  Bangor,  arriving  there  at  noon,  and  at  Moose- 
head  Lake  early  in  the  evening.  To  those  who  are  not  rushed  for 
time,  this  is  a  very  desirable  way  of  making  the  trip. 

Should  you  feel  disposed  to  stop  in  Portland  a  few  days,  you  wall  find 
in  the  city  and  its  suburbs  much  to  interest  and  attract  the  stranger. 
Its  colonial  history  dates  back  to  the  earliest  settlement  of  this  coun- 
try, and  its  public  buildings,  streets,  and  promenades  are  worthy  more 
than  casual  notice.  Its  harbor  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  along  the 
entire  New  England  coast;  and  the  beautiful  islands  in  Casco  Bay, 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


15 


many  of  wliich  can  be  reached  hourly  by  the  excursion  steamers,  are 
well  worth  a  visit.  Gushing' s  Island,  the  gem  of  them  all,  standing 
at  the  entrance  of  Portland  Harbor,  commands  more  beautiful  and 
entrancing  views  than  any  other  spot  we  have  ever  visited.  To  see  all 
of  interest  on  the  island,  at  least  a  night  and  day  should  be  passed 
there,  and  the  best  of  accommodations,  at  reasonable  prices,  can  be 
found  at  the  charming  new  Ottawa  House,  standing  on  high  land, 
commanding  views  both  seaward  and  inland  that  have  given  this  house 
a  world-wide  reputation  as  a  summer  home.  The  manager  is  Mr.  M. 
S.  Gibson,  also  proprietor  of  the  Preble  House,  which  stands  at  the 
head  of  the  hotels  in  Portland.  The  Preble  occupies  a  very  pleasant 
location  on  Congress  Street,  and  horse-cars  from  all  railroad  stations 
and  all  steamboat  wharves  pass  its  doors.  Connnercial  travellers  are 
generally  conceded  to  be  the  best  judges  of  hotels  there  are,  living  in 
them  as  they  do  the  most  of  their  time,  and  several  have  told  me 
within  a  year  that  the  Preble  was  the  best  conducted  and  most  satis- 
factory hotel  in  Portland  to  stop  at,  and  they  had  emphasized  their 
opinion  by  leaving  houses  where  they  had  stopped  for  years,  and  mak- 
ing the  Preble  their  home  when  in  Portland.  Surely  no  stronger 
indorsement  of  a  hotel  can  be  made.  The  Preble  House  itself  is  in- 
teresting to  strangers  from  the  fact  that  it  was  formerly  the  mansion 
of  Commodore  Preble,  and  another  noteworthy  building,  the  Long- 
fellow House,  where  the  poet  lived  from  a  few  years  after  his  birth, 
adjoins  it  on  the  south. 

At  1.20  P.M.  we  resume  our  journey  over  the  Maine  Central, — one 
of  the  best  managed  railroad  properties  in  Xew  England,  — and, 
speeding  swiftly  along,  you  soon  approach  the  station  of  Woodford's 
(in  Deering),  a  suburb  of  Portland,  three  miles  away,  and,  glancing 
backward  to  the  right,  obtain  for  a  few  moments  a  fine  view  of  the 
greater  part  of  the  city,  sweeping  up  from  Back  Cove  to  the  tops  of 
the  hills,  and  down  to  the  harbor,  on  the  north  end  of  the  peninsula. 
As  the  train  winds  around  the  base  of  Rocky  Hill  the  city  quickly 
disappears  from  your  gaze,  and  we  turn  our  eyes  ahead  to  learn,  if 
possible,  why  the  train  has  stopped,  and  find  that  we  are  about  to 
cross  the  tracks  of  the  Portland  &  Rochester  Railroad.  The  laws  of 
Maine  require  that  every  train  shall  come  to  a  dead  stop  at  all  cross- 
ings; and  our  engineer  having  shown  his  respect  for  the  law,  — and  a 
very  wise  one  we  consider  it, — pulls  ahead,  and  a  moment  later  the 
train  stops  at  Westbrook  Junction  (Deering),  four  miles  from  Port- 
land.   The  Westbrook  Seminary  and  Female  College,  which  offers 


16 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


fine  educational  advantages  to  its  students,  and  Evergreen  Cemetery, 
containing  three  hundred  acres,  the  grounds  being  kept  with  great 
care,  are  but  a  short  distance  from  tlie  station.  Again  we  start,  and, 
leaving  the  suburban  homes  of  Portland  behind  us,  run  down  the 
so-called  ''Falmouth  Grade,"  and  notice  on  the  summit  of  a  hill  to 
the  left  Black  Strap  Monument,  one  of  the  landmarks,  of  which  there 
are  many  in  the  State,  erected  by  the  United  States  Coast  Survey 
a  few  years  ago.  Crossing  the  Presumpscot  River,  the  outlet  of 
Sebago  Lake,  the  source  of  Portland's  water  supply,  we  enjoy,  while 
the  train  flies  across  the  iron  bridge,  several  picturesque  views  about 
us.  Through  a  rolling  country  our  iron  horse  dashes  swiftly,  until 
eight  miles  from  Portland  we  stop  at  the  station  of  West  Falmouth,, 
accommodating  the  travel  of  Falmouth  Foreside,  a  mile  and  a  half 
distant,  a  locality  where  boarding-houses  and  summer  cottages  are 
filled  each  season  by  the  wealthy  people  of  Portland  and  strangers 
from  afar.  The  next  station  is  Cuniberland  Junction,  eleven  miles- 
from  Portland,  where  the  Maine  Central  road  divides,  one  route  run- 
ning to  Brunswick  and  following  the  Kennebec  River,  the  other  by 
way  of  Lewiston  and  Lake  Maranacook,  both  divisions  uniting  at 
Waterville.  The  buildings  seen  on  the  right  of  the  station  are  sweet- 
corn  packing  establishments,  which  business  has  grown  to  be  one  of 
the  largest  industries  of  Maine.  Evidently  the  citizens  of  the  Pine 
Tree  State  think  that  the  other  people  in  the  world  are  ''  too  fresh," 
or  they  would  not  take  such  active  measures  to  "corn"  them.  A 
short  distance  from  the  station  is  the  thriving  and  thickly  settled  vil- 
lage of  Cumberland  Centre.  Taking  the  right-hand  track  the  train 
rushes  onward  through  a  prosperous  farming  region,  crossing  Royal 
River  over  a  fine  iron  bridge,  and  stopping  a  moment  before  crossing 
the  tracks  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  is  a  couple  of  minutes  later  at 
the  station  of  Yarmouth  Junction,  fifteen  miles  from  Portland.  The 
village  of  Yarmouth  is  half  a  mile  distant  to  the  right.  The  mills  of 
the  Forest  Fibre  Company,  which  are  in  sight  on  the  right,  and  a 
corn-packing  establishment  furnish  a  large  part  of  the  business  of  the 
place.  The  town  extends  to  the  sea-coast,  and  formerly  considerable 
ship-building  was  carried  on  along  the  shore.  It  was  settled  about  fifty 
years  later  than  Boston,  in  1683,  but  was  afterward  entirely  destroyed. 
Again  in  motion,  we  flit  rapidly  across  the  farms  that  lie  in  our  path^ 
making  our  next  stop  at  Freeport,  twenty-one  miles  from  Portland. 
This  is  a  lively  farming  town  containing  a  populous  village  clustered 
around  the  station,  which  has  grown  up  in  the  last  decade  of  years; 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


17 


and  the  large  new  shoe  factory  and  other  industries  in  this  vicinity  add 
greatly  to  the  prosperity  of  the  community.  Its  territory  stretches 
easterly  to  Casco  Bay;  and  this  portion  was  once  famous  for  its  ship- 
building. A  small  steamer  plies  daily  between  Portland  and  Freeport, 
and  the  sail  in  summer  is  charming,  lint  the  conductor  signals  the 
engineer  to  "  go  ahead,"  and  we  scramble  on  the  train  just  as  it  begins 
to  move,  resuming  our  seats  and  our  observations  from  the  windows, 
catching  glimpses  of  well-cultivated  fields,  rich  pastures,  and  pleasing 
bits  of  forest,  whose  inviting  shade  almost  tempts  one  to  halt,  and 
shortly  dash  by  Hillside,  a  small  station  on  the  left,  twenty-five  miles 
from  Portland,  too  modest  and  unassuming  to  care  for  especial  men- 
tion, and  soon  after  reach  the  large  depot  in  Brunswick,  twenty-nine 
jniles  from  the  Forest  City,  where  the  train  stops.  The  tall  iron  col- 
nnm  on  the  hill  to  the  left,  which  attracted  your  attention  as  we 
approached  the  station,  is  the  large  iron  stand-pipe  of  the  Pejepscot 
Water  Company,  and  is  seventy-five  feet  high.  Brunswick  is  quite  an 
important  railroad  centre,  branches  of  the  Maine  Central  extending 
from  here  to  Farmiiigton,  Lewiston,  and  Bath.  There  is  a  first-class 
dining-room  in  the  depot,  under  the  same  popular  management  as 
those  in  the  Union  Depots  at  Portland  and  Bangor.  Brunswick  is 
well  known  as  the  seat  of  Bowdoin  College,  one  of  the  oldest  in  New 
England,  dating  back  to  1794,  its  name  perpetuating  that  of  one  of 
the  Massachusetts  governors,  James  Bowdoin.  The  town  has  a  popu- 
lation of  six  thousand  or  more  souls,  and  occupies  a  level  plain  once 
•covered  with  huge  pines,  near  the  junction  of  the  Kennebec  and  An- 
droscoggin Rivers,  forming  Merry  Meeting  Bay,  and  from  which  these 
two  restless  and  turbulent  streams  flow  as  one  to  the  broad  ocean.  It 
is  said  to  form  part  of  the  ancient  Pejepscot  Purchase,  the  deed  bearing 
date  of  July  7,  1G84,  and  which  six  Indian  Sagamores,  with  names  a 
yard  and  a  half  long,  signed  with  totems  or  seals  quaint  and  curious, 
conveying  to  the  early  settlers  the  region  in  the  vicinity  of  and  now 
occupied  by  the  towns  of  Brunswick,  Topsham,  and  Harpswell. 

The  Androscoggin  River,  which  rises  in  the  well-known  lake  region 
of  that  name,  furnishes  abundant  water  power  to  the  town  of  Bruns- 
^vick,  and  is  responsible  for  the  birth  of  the  huge  manufactories  of  the 
Cabot  Company  and  others.  The  large  cotton  mill  contains  forty- 
'seven  thousand  spindles,  and  employs  seven  hundred  and  twenty-five 
working  people, — almost  enough  for  a  regiment.  The  river  above 
the  mills  is  a  mass  of  foaming  rapids,  whose  tireless  flow  has  partially 
worn  away  the  gi-anite  ledges  along  the  banks;  and  the  old  Indian 


18 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


title  of  Pejepscot,"  signifying  "  where  angry  waters  gush,"  aptly 
applies  to  the  river  at  this  point. 

Directly  after  the  train  pulls  out  from  the  station  the  main  street  of 
the  town  is  crossed.  It  extends  from  the  falls  at  the  lower  end  of  the 
village  to  the  sea-shore  at  Maquoit,  a  distance  of  three  miles,  and  is. 
of  a  uniform  width  of  two  hundred  feet  the  entire  distance.  This 
street  was  the  old  Indian  trail  over  which  the  savages  carried  their 
canoes  in  their  journeys  between  the  river  and  the  sea.  It  was  origi- 
nally about  two  feet  wide,  but  after  the  coming  of  the  civilized  and 
Christian  white  man  was  made  a  hundred  times  wider,  so  that  the 
uncivilized  and  pagan  red  man  could  manage  to  keep  in  the  road  when 
he  was  overloaded  with  the  white  man's  whiskey.  Africa  to-day  is 
being  civilized  and  Christianized  by  missionaries  in  the  same  manner 
that  America  was  nearly  three  hundred  years  ago. 

Secure  seats  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  car,  as  by  so  doing  yon 
will  obtain  the  more  pleasing  views  to  Augusta.  Crossing  the  street 
before  mentioned,  you  can  see  to  the  right  the  grounds  and  buildings 
of  Bowdoin  College,  occupying  the  elevated  plain  beyond  the  church. 
Some  of  the  most  distinguished  of  our  public  men,  in  the  past,  have 
been  graduates  of  Bowdoin.  A  short  distance  from  the  depot,  the 
train  crosses  the  laughing  Androscoggin,  that  has  quieted  down  since 
its  fall  above,  over  a  substantial  iron  bridge,  a  trifle  short  of  eight  hun- 
dred feet  long,  giving  a  view  on  our  left  of  the  dam  and  factories  clus- 
tered near  it.  Across  the  river  we  enter  Topsham,  and  pass  its  station, 
thirty  miles  from  Portland.  About  three  miles  beyond  Topsham 
station,  we  first  catch  sight  of  a  bright  stream  of  tide-water,  yet  known 
by  its  Indian  title,  "Cathance,"  whose  erratic  course  is  almost  con- 
stantly in  sight  until  it  empties  into  Merry  Meeting  Bay,  a  mile  east  of 
Bowdoinham  station.  The  scenery  along  in  this  vicinity,  although 
quiet,  is  pleasing  and  worthy  of  attention.  Thirty-seven  miles  from 
Portland  we  pass  the  station  of  Bowdoinham,  but  no  stop  is  made. 
The  large,  steam  lumber  mill,  seen  to  the  right  of  the  train,  is 
one  of  the  principal  industries  of  the  village.  Hurrying  on,  and 
giving  a  warning  whistle  to  "clear  the  track,"  the  train  dashes  by 
the  small  station  of  Harward's  Road,  and  gradually  approaches  the 
Kennebec  River,  equally  celebrated  for  its  immense  ice  harvests  in. 
winter,  and  its  beautiful  landscapes  in  summer.  Dozens  of  immense 
houses  for  the  storage  of  ice  line  its  banks;  and  in  many  places  where 
trees  have  impeded  the  views  of  the  river,  the  Maine  Central  Railroad 
Company,  ever  mindful  of  everything  that  will  contribute  to  the  com- 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


19 


fort  or  pleasure  of  its  patrons,  has  caused  the  obstructing  growth  to 
be  cut  away.  At  Richmond,  forty-five  miles  from  Portland,  and  one 
of  the  prettiest  of  the  Kennebec  towns,  the  train  makes  a  few  minutes' 
stop.  Lumber  and  shoe  manufacturing  are  the  principal  industries  of 
the  place,  and  give  employment  to  a  large  number  of  people. 

It  is  a  lovely  ride  between  Richmond  and  Augusta  in  summer,  tlie 
railroad  following  the  Kennebec  River,  which  is  in  sight  nearly  the 
entire  distance.  Every  curve  of  the  road  and  the  river  produces  a  new 
and  attractive  picture.  Vessels  of  all  sizes,  tugs  and  excursion  boats, 
sailing  scows,  and  other  river  craft,  add  to  the  beauty  of  the  scene, 
and  the  distant  views  of  the  towns  and  cities,  as  we  approach  them, 
give  additional  interest  to  the  panorama.  A  large  amount  of  lumber 
is  manufactured  along  the  river,  and  the  building  of  vessels  is  carried 
on  to  some  extent.  Ice-cutting  is  the  principal  industry  in  winter, 
and  thousands  of  tons  are  annually  shipped  each  year,  not  only  to 
other  places  in  the  United  States,  but  also  to  foreign  countries.  The 
entire  harvest  is  upwards  of  a  million  tons,  and  there  is  no  better  or 
purer  ice  put  on  the  market. 

Leaving  the  station,  we  soon  catch  a  glimpse  to  the  right,  near  the 
Dresden  Ferry,  of  an  old  barn  standing  alone  on  a  point  of  land  be- 
tw^een  the  railroad  and  the  river,  which  marks  the  site  of  Fort  Rich- 
mond, from  wdiicli  the  town  w^as  named,  built  in  1719  as  a  defensive 
work,  and  also  as  a  trading-post  with  the  Indians.  Looking  back  from 
this  point,  one  can  see  Swan  Island,  once  the  headquarters  of  the 
Kennebec  Indians.  ''Yistas  en  Route"  informs  us  that  '^A  short 
mile  farther  up  the  river,  on  the  opposite  bank,  partly  hidden  by  a 
curtain  of  pines,  a  large,  square  house  may  be  seen,  with  an  old- 
fashioned  hip  roof,  and  four  stories  high.  This  is  one  of  the  oldest 
buildings  on  the  river.  It  was  erected  by  the  Plymouth  Company  in 
1760  as  a  court-house  for  the  new  county  of  Lincoln,  and  also  as  a 
tavern.  Its  exterior  remains  unchanged,  and  the  upper  rooms,  with 
their  high  fire-places,  are  the  same  as  when  juries  met  here  to  delib- 
erate a  century  and  a  quarter  ago.  Fort  Shirley,  first  called  Frankfort, 
erected  in  1751-52,  stood  upon  the  point  of  land  now  occupied  by  the 
old  court-house.  Upon  the  right  bank  of  the  Kennebec  are  the  towns 
of  Dresden,  Pittston,  Randolph,  and  Chelsea,  opposite  their  respective 
neighbors  Richmond, Gardiner,  Farmingdale,  and  Hallow"ell,to  Augusta, 
which  occupies  both  sides  of  the  river.  Kearly  upon  the  boundary  of 
the  towns  of  Chelsea  and  Augusta,  reached  from  the  latter  station, 
distance  two  miles,  is  situated  the  Togus  National  Home  for  Disabled 


20 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


Yolunteer  Soldiers,  where  fifteen  hundred  veterans  of  the  Rebellion 
dwell,  cared  for  by  the  government  which  they  helped  to  sustain." 

Now  we  shoot  by  the  small  station  of  Iceboro,  with  its  mammoth 
houses,  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world  for  the  storage  of  solid 
water;  Dresden,  where  the  Methodists  have  their  camp  ground;  and 
South  Gardiner,  with  its  immense  steam-mills,  — perfect  hives  of  in- 
dustry,—  where,  by  the  magic  of  man's  ingenuity,  logs  are  changed 
into  every  conceivable  form  of  lumber;  and  its  pretty  cottages,  some 
of  which  during  the  summer  season  are  occupied  by  persons  from  with- 
out the  State;  and  then  the  hissing  of  the  air-brakes  announces  a  stop, 
and  the  train  pulls  up  at  Gardiner,  fifty-six  miles  from  Portland. 
During  the  portion  of  the  year  that  the  river  is  navigable,  the  fine, 
large  steamers  of  the  Boston  and  Kennebec  Steamboat  Company  run 
between  Gardiner  and  Boston;  and  if  you  happen  to  be  on  the  train 
when  one  of  these  boats,  with  colors  flying,  is  running  down  river,  you 
can  see  a  very  pretty  picture.  The  river  is  bridged  at  Gardiner,  but  a 
draw  allows  for  the  passage  of  small  vessels  and  steamers  to  Augusta. 

A  short  distance  from  the  station  we  cross  the  Cobbossee-Contee 
Stream,  which  furnishes  the  power  for  Gardiner's  most  important 
industries.  In  this  vicinity  formerly  existed  noted  Indian  encamp- 
ments. Dashing  swiftly  along  by  a  number  of  large  ice-houses,  the 
train  slips  through  the  small  village  of  Farmingdale,  with  only  a 
whistle  from  the  engineer,  and  a  few  miles  farther  on  slows  down  at 
Hallo  well,  sixty  miles  from  Portland,  passing  a  neat,  granite  library 
building  on  the  right,  just  before  reaching  the  station.  A  bend  of  the 
river  here  allows  a  view  to  be  had  from  the  train  of  the  entire  water- 
front of  the  city.  Both  Gardiner  and  Hallowell  are  named  after  the 
early  proprietors  to  whom  the  land  was  granted  in  old  colonial  days. 
The  Maine  Industrial  School  for  girls  is  located  here,  also  the  large 
quarries  from  which  is  taken  the  famous  Hallowell  granite,  largely 
used  for  monuments  as  well  as  buildings.  A  short  run  now  brings  us 
to  Augusta,  sixty-three  miles  from  Portland,  the  capital  of  the  State, 
and  the  head  of  tide-water  on  the  Kennebec.  Shortly  before  entering 
Augusta,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  may  be  seen  an  old  build- 
ing, its  roof  pierced  by  three  huge  chimneys.  This  is  all  that  is  left 
of  Fort  Weston,  erected  by  the  Plymouth  Company  in  1754.  It  is  one 
hundred  feet  long,  and  was  designed  for  officers'  quarters,  barracks  for 
the  garrison,  and  for  a  storehouse.  It  is  now  used  as  a  tenement- 
house,  and  is  all  that  remains  of  the  defensive  works  erected  to  pi'otect 
the  settlements  on  the  lower  Kennebec  during  the  last  of  the  French 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


21 


and  Indian  wars.  Just  below  the  city,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  stands  the  State  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  and  a  little  above  it  is 
the  United  States  Arsenal.  Augusta  has  a  large  manufacturing  busi- 
ness, and  contains  several  mills  of  various  kinds.  A  huge  dam,  with 
a  lock  at  the  east  end,  extends  across  the  river,  just  above  tlie  city, 
Cushnoc  was  the  Indian  name  for  Augusta,  and  it  was  a  great  rally- 
ing-place  for  the  tribes.  A  movement  is  now  being  made  to  change 
the  capital  to  Portland,  and  the  good  citizens  of  Augusta  are  much 
incensed  thereat.  From  here  to  Waterville  a  seat  on  the  left-hand 
side  of  the  train  is  more  desirable,  it  being  next  the  river. 

Leaving  fair  Augusta,  we  cross  the  Kennebec  over  a  splendid  iron 
bridge,  one  thousand  feet  in  length,  obtaining  fine  views  from  each 
side,  and  then,  entering  the  town  of  Yassalboro,  follow  the  river,  which 
is  now  on  our  left.  At  the  farther  end  of  the  dam  can  be  seen  the 
mill  of  the  Edwards  Manufacturing  Company.  As  we  approach  the 
station  at  Riverside,  the  train  passes  **Five  Mile  Island,"  so  called, 
which  divides  the  river  for  some  distance.  Shooting  by  the  station  at 
Riverside  on  our  left,  we  cross  Seven  Mile  Brook,"  and  soon  pass 
the  Vassalboro  station.  This  old  town  was  settled  about  1760  by  a 
party  of  Cape-Codders,  who  deserted  the  barren  sands  and  marshes  of 
the  Cape  to  establish  homes  in  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Kennebec. 
HiuTying  on  we  reach  Winslow,  eighty  miles  from  Portland,  and,  just 
after  crossing  the  Sebasticook  River,  which  here  empties  into  the 
Kennebec,  notice  on  a  point  of  land  to  the  left,  formed  by  the  junction 
of  the  two  streams,  old  Fort  Halifax,  its  location  and  appearance 
uncham^ed  from  the  time  when  it  was  first  erected  by  the  Government 
of  Massachusetts  Bay  as  one  of  the  defences  of  the  valley.  Beyond 
the  old  block-house  we  catch  a  distant  view  of  Waterville,  and  the 
large  cotton  mills  of  the  Lock  wood  Company,  and,  before  entering  the 
outskirts  of  the  city,  the  Kennebec  is  crossed  again  over  another  fine 
iron  bridge,  eight  hundred  feet  long,  with  rapids  and  falls  flashing 
and  roaring  beneath  us,  and  yet  bearing  the  old  Indian  appellation, 
"Ticonic."  The  views  here  in  either  direction  are  picturesque  and 
pleasing  in  the  extreme.  Across  the  bridge  the  river  has  whisked  to 
our  right  again,  and  remains  in  sight  but  a  short  distance.  As  we 
enter  the  town  its  pleasant  aspect  —  embowered  by  shade-trees  — 
impresses  us  favorably,  and  the  train  shortly  draws  up  at  the  station, 
and  on  the  right  we  notice  the  grounds  and  buildings  of  Colby  Univer- 
sity. The  Coburn  Classical  Institute  is  also  located  here.  The  tAVO 
lines  from  Portland  come  together  at  Waterville,  and  continue  as  one 


22 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


to  Bangor.  A  branch  runs  from  here  to  Skowhegan,  nineteen  miles 
distant.  But  the  train,  having  been  made  up  anew  for  its  eastern 
flight,  slowly  leaves  the  depot,  and,  passing  through  the  central 
portion  of  the  city,  which,  by  the  way,  is  the  youngest  in  Maine,  its 
charter  only  dating  from  1888,  soon  reaches  the  large  sliops  of  the 
Maine  Central  Company,  seen  to  the  right,  and  a  short  distance  be- 
yond again,  and  for  the  last  time,  crosses  the  Kennebec  River,  over 
another  fine  iron  bridge,  six  hundred  feet  in  length.  Steaming  onv/ard, 
the  train  passes  through  the  farming  town  of  Benton,  and  along  here 
we  catch  the  last  glimpses  of  the  beautiful  Kennebec,  its  silvery  rapids 
rushing  between  numerous  islands,  impatient  of  any  obstruction. 
Opposite  the  station  at  Benton,  upon  the  farther  side  of  the  river,  is 
the  large  and  thriving  village  of  Fairfield;  and  its  lumber  mills,  which 
furnish  the  principal  industry,  may  be  seen  from  the  cars.  Passing 
the  station  of  Clinton,  a  farming  village  from  which  a  large  amount 
of  produce  is  shipped,  the  next  stop  is  made  at  Burnham  Junction, 
ninety-five  miles  from  Portland,  from  where  a  branch  runs  to  Belfast, 
an  important  seaport  town,  thirty-four  miles  from  the  main  line.  A 
few  moments  here,  and  on  we  dash,  reaching  the  smart  and  rapidly 
growing  town  of  Pittsfield  next.  As  the  train  slacks  up  at  the  station, 
the  Maine  Central  Institute,  one  of  the  preparatory  schools  in  Maine, 
can  be  seen  to  the  right.  The  village  is  located  on  the  western  bank 
of  the  Sebasticook  River,  which  furnishes  the  power  for  several  large 
woollen  mills,  and  other  manufactories.  The  Sebasticook  and  Moose- 
head  Railroad  extends  north  eight  miles  to  Hartland,  with  Moosehead 
Lake  as  its  objective  point,  — if  it  ever  reaches  it. 

Crossing  the  river,  we  dash  on  across  a  flat  country,  passing  the  sta- 
tion of  Detroit,  a  more  familiar  name  in  the  West,  without  obtaining 
a  glimpse  of  the  village  which  is  hidden  from  our  view,  shortly  arriv- 
ing at  Newport,  one  hundred  and  ten  miles  from  Portland.  A  branch 
extends  from  this  point  through  Corinna  to  Dextei",  and  it  is  to  be 
built  to  Dover  the  present  year,  there  forming  a  junction  with  the 
Bangor  and  Piscataquis  Railroad,  making  so  short  a  cut  to  Moosehead 
Lake  that  the  traveller  leaving  Boston  in  the  morning  may  be  able  to 
arrive  at  the  Mount  Kineo  House  the  same  night.  As  we  run  away 
from  Newport,  we  cross  the  Sebasticook  River  once  more,  and  a 
charming  lake  of  the  same  name  may  be  seen  to  the  left.  A  short 
ride  carries  us  by  the  East  Newport  station,  and  in  this  vicinity  the 
high  hills  of  Plymouth  and  the  noted  Dixmont  Mountains  can  be  seen 
off  to  tlie  right.    Etna,  Carmel,  and  Hermon  Pond  follow  in  rapid 


AND   NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


23 


succession,  the  latter  one  liundred  and  twenty-six  miles  from  Port- 
land. There  are  several  mills  at  this  place,  and  a  beautiful  pond, 
stretching  away  to  the  right,  from  which  the  station  is  named. 

Moving  onward  once  more,  we  soon  pass  Hermon  Centre,  and  shortly 
after  the  Penobscot  Iliver  appears  in  sight,  and  we  follow  up  its  left 
bank  till  we  reach  the  station  in  Bangor,  at  6.30  p.m.,  one  hundred 
and  thirty-six  miles  from  Portland,  where  we  stop  over  night. 

You  have  a  number  of  first-class  hotels  to  choose  from,  the  Bangor 
House  being  the  largest  and  the  most  pleasantly  located.  Bangor, 
the  metropolis  of  Eastern  Maine,  is  one  of  the  finest  cities  in  the  State, 
a,nd  the  distributing  point  for  a  vast  extent  of  country.  A  large 
amount  of  business  is  done  here,  the  principal  industries  being  lumber- 
ing and  manufacturing.  Within  a  few  years  some  attention  has  been 
paid  to  ice-harvesting,  but  the  Penobscot  will  never  be  a  very  danger- 
ous rival  of  the  Kennebec.  In  the  new  city  of  Brewer,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  quite  a  number  of  vessels  and  small  steamers  have 
been  constructed,  and  more  or  less  building  is  done  in  the  yards  there 
each  year.  A  branch  of  the  Maine  Central  extends  to  Mount  Desert 
Ferry,  another  to  Bucksport,  and  the  main  line  stretches  away  east- 
ward to  Yanceboro  on  the  boundary  of  the  State.  Several  different 
steamboat  lines  run  from  Bangor  to  Penobscot  River  and  Bay  towns, 
Rockland,  Mount  Desert,  Boston,  and  New  York.  If  the  traveller 
bound  to  Moosehead  Lake  wishes  to  pay  an  extra  fare  for  speed  and 
luxury,  he  can  start  on  the  celebrated  "Limited  express"  leaving 
Boston  from  Hay  market  Square  Depot  at  9.15  a.m.,  running  over  the 
Western  Division  to  Portland,  and  via  Danville  Junction,  Auburn, 
Lewiston,  Lake  Maranacook,  and  Water ville  to  Bangor,  arriving  at 
5.30  P.M.  This  train  is  composed  wholly  of  Pullman  Vestibule  Draw- 
ing-room and  Dining  Cars.  It  is  put  on  about  the  1st  of  July,  and 
runs  until  the  middle  of  September.  Passengers  by  all  day  trains 
spend  the  night  in  Bangor,  and  proceed  to  the  lake  the  next  morning. 

BOSTON  TO  BANGOR  BY  STEA3IER. 

Embark  on  one  of  the  Boston  and  Bangor  Steamship  Company's 
fine  steamers  leaving  Boston  from  Foster's  Wharf,  366  Atlantic  Ave- 
nue, daily,  except  Sunday,  during  the  summer  season  at  5.30  p.m., 
giving  a  beautiful  sail  down  Boston  Harbor  and  along  the  eastern 
coast  of  Massachusetts  before  darkness  veils  the  scene.  Forts  Inde- 
pendence, Winthrop  and  Warren,  Deer  Island,  Long  Island,  Nix's 


24 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


Mate,  and  Boston  Light,  each  excites  interest  in  the  minds  of  the 
passengers  as  they  are  successively  passed.    Minot's  Ledge  Light,  the 
bold  and  rugged  bhiffs  of  Nahant,  Egg  Kock  Light,  Baker's  Island 
Lights,  Norman's  Woe,  Thatcher's  Island  Lights,  are  all  to  be  seen 
from  the  steamer.    After  passing  Cape  Ann  and  the  Salvages,  the 
course  is  more  to  the  eastward,  and  Monhegan  Island,  off  the  coast  of 
Maine,  is  reached  about  daylight.    Passing  this  you  notice  next  White- 
head Point,  then  Dix  Island  with  its  extensive  granite  quarries,  Owl's 
Head,  an  old  landmark,  and  other  objects  of  interest.    At  Rockland 
the  boat  stops  for  the  first  time,  and  here  connections  are  made  with 
the  Knox  and  Lincoln  Kailroad  for  Bath  and  all  stations  on  the  route; 
also  with  the  fine  steamer  "Mount  Desert"  every  morning,  except 
Sunday,  for  South-west  Harbor,  North-east  Harbor,  and  Bar  Harbor; 
and  with  the  new  steamer  "Blue  Hill"  on  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and 
Saturday,  for  North-west  Harbor,  Sedgwick,  Brooklin,  Blue  Hill,  Surry, 
and  Ellswwth;  also  with  steamer  "  City  of  Richmond"  at  Kockland, 
every  Wednesday  and  Saturday,  for  Castine,  MiUbridge,  Jonesport, 
and  Machiasport.    Stages  also  leave  Rockland  and  Camden  for  the 
surrounding  towns,  and  small  steamers  and  packets  for  adjacent 
islands.    Pursuing  her  course  up  the  western  shore  of  the  beautiful 
Penobscot  Bay,  the  boat  touches  next  at  Camden,  noted  for  its  fine 
scenery,  beautiful  surroundings,  and  excellent  fishing.    The  third  stop 
is  at  Northport,  the  celebrated  camp-ground,  that  is  fast  attaining  a 
popularity  as  a  summer  resort.    The  next  landing  is  at  Belfast,  where 
connections  are  made  with  the  Belfast  and  Moosehead  Lake  Railroad 
for  Burnham  and  intermediate  towns,  and  with  steamers  for  Castine 
and  adjacent  islands.    Again  the  steamer  ploughs  the  bright  waters  of 
the  bay  for  a  short  time,  halting  next  at  Searsport.    From  here  her 
course  is  laid  for  Fort  Point,  a  charming  watering  place,  the  boat  land^ 
ing  here  each  trip  during  the  summer  season.    Among  the  many 
picturesque  spots  which  have  sprung  into  prominence  during  recent 
years  none  offers  stronger  inducements  as  an  attractive  summer  resort 
than  Fort  Point,  a  bold  promontory  at  the  head  of  Penobscot  Bay,  at 
the  point  where  the  waters  of  the  majestic  river  unite  with  those  of 
the  outer  harbor.    The  natural  advantages  at  Fort  Point  are  unsur- 
passed, combining  grand  views  of  bay  and  river,  with  all  of  the 
interesting  features  of  each,  and  at  the  same  time  being  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  charming  inland  scenery. 

Leaving  Fort  Point  and  the  bay,  the  boat  enters  the  river,  the  first 
landing  being  made  at  Bucksport,  from  which  town  there  are  stage 
connections  to  various  points. 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


25 


^V"interpo^t,  the  next  stopping-place,  is  the  terminus  of  the  steamers 
of  this  Hne  during  the  winter  months,  navigation  higher  up  being 
ch)sed  by  ice.  Under  way  again,  we  soon  reach  Hampden,  and,  after 
a  short  stay,  haul  in  the  gang-plank  for  the  last  time,  the  next  landing 
being  Bangor,  where  the  boat  arrives  about  noon.  Passengers  can 
take  the  afternoon  train,  arriving  at  Moosehead  Lake  and  Mount  Kineo 
the  same  evening.  Returning,  you  can  take  the  early  train  from 
Greenville,  reaching  Bangor  in  time  to  connect  with  one  of  the 
steamers  of  this  line  for  Boston,  where  you  arrive  early  the  next 
morning. 

Before  leaving  Bangor  we  must  speak  of  its  salmon  fishing,  which 
within  a  few  years  has  increased  to  such  a,n  extent  as  to  now  offer  the 
best  enjoyment  of  that  sport  of  anyplace  in  New  England;  and  the 
Penobscot  can  fairly  rival  the  much  vaunted  and  over-fished  rivers  of 
Canada.  The  fishing-grounds  are  only  a  mile  from  the  best  hotels  in 
the  city;  and  the  sportsman  is  entirely  free  from  the  continual  discom- 
fort and  horrible  torture  of  insects  that  he  must  endure  on  all  Cana- 
dian rivers. 

The  season  of  1888  was  the  most  successful  at  Bangor  since  fishing 
began  at  the  pool,  and  a  large  number  of  sportsmen  visited  the  city  to 
enjoy  the  fine  sport,  and  many  of  them  were  delighted  with  their 
luck. 

The  fly-fishing  season  for  salmon  at  the  Bangor  pool  closed  on  Sat- 
urday, June  80,  the  last  catches  having  been  made  on  that  date  by 
Charles  Barstow  and  J.  H.  Peavey;  and  the  club-house  closed  on 
Thursday,  July  5.  There  were  lots  of  salmon  in  the  river  at  the  time 
of  closing,  but  after  the  water  became  warm  they  refused  all  invita- 
tions to  rise  to  a  fly.  The  record  of  fish  caught,  which  we  give  in  this 
chapter,  we  are  indebted  to  the  Bangor  Whig  and  Courier"  for. 
This  journal  tried  hard  to  keep  a  correct  list,  but  found  it  impossible, 
as  many  fish  were  taken  on  the  Bangor  side  of  the  river  which  were 
not  reported  at  the  club-house,  and  therefore  not  obtainable  for 
record. 

The  number  of  salmon  successfully  landed  was  no  criterion  by 
which  to  judge  of  the  number  of  this  noble  fish  in  the  river,  as  a  far 
greater  number  took  the  fly,  but  were  not  brought  to  the  gaff,  either 
through  defective  tackle,  or  from  not  being  properly  hooked,  or  from 
unskilful  handling,  or  other  causes  with  which  fishermen  are  familiar. 

This  record,  however,  is  the  fullest  and  most  accurate  ever  made, 
and  the  results  as  given  will  be  of  interest  to  all  lovers  of  the  rod  and 


26 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


line,  and  will  no  doubt  tend  to  bring  a  larger  numb  3r  of  sportsmen  to 
Bangor  the  present  season,  Avlien,  in  consequence  of  ilie  marked 
annual  increase,  the  fishing  will  be  even  better  than  last  year.  During 
the  last  season  the  club-house  and  matters  pertaining  to  it  were  under 
the  efficient  charge  of  Thomas  F.  Allen,  Esq.,  and  the  manner  in 
which  he  performed  the  duties  of  his  position  won  for  him  many- 
deserved  compliments.  He  was  emphatically  the  right  man  in  the 
right  place;  and  it  is  hoped  and  expected  that  he  will  fill  the  position 
this  year. 

The  following  are  the  names  of  the  lucky  fishermen,  with  Lhe  nu::  - 
her  and  total  weight  of  fish  caught  by  each :  — 

F.  W.  Ayer,  19,  339  pounds;  A.  Mitchell,  Norwich,  Conn.,  12,  218 
pounds;  Charles  Barstow,  Boston,  8,  118  pounds;  J.  H.  Peavey,  6, 
104  pounds;  T.  F.  Allen,  8,  116  pounds;  George  Libby,  5,  94  pounds; 
Edward  Stetson,  5,  95  pounds;  Dr.  Elliot,  Lawrence,  Mass.,  5,  87 
pounds;  John  T.  Clark,  4,  74  pounds;  Mr.  McCarty,  Lawrence,  Mass., 
4,  72  pounds;  John  Kent,  Yeazie,  4,  74  pounds;  E.  A.  Buck,  3,  53 
pounds;  H.  N.  Brooks,  Meriden,  Conn.,  3,  46  pounds;  J.  H.  Gould, 
2,  33  pounds;  G.  W.  McMahon,  2,  38  pounds;  Mr.  Munn,  New  York, 
2,  32  pounds;  Ivory  Doane,  Yeazie,  2,  25  pounds;  George  Fi.iie- 
gan,  2,  34  pounds;  Dr.  W.  H.  Simmons,  2,  28  pounds;  C.  J.  Bateman, 
Boston,  2,  36  pounds;  Frank  McGuire,  2,  26  pounds;  Z.  K.  Bobbins, 
Norwich,  Conn.,  2,  32  pounds;  J.  A.  Thompson,  2,  41  pounds;  Wm. 
B.  McElroy,  Providence,  R.I.,  2,  38  pounds;  Charles  Richardson,  2, 
33  pounds;  C.  P.  Hodgkins,  2,  19  pounds;  Herbert  Nealley,  2,  21 
pounds;  also  the  following,  one  each:  F.  S.  Swett,  Brewer;  Hon.  Wm. 
Senter,  Portland;  Frank  Cowan;  Al.  Spencer;  1.  K.  Stetson;  Jerome 
Philbrook;  Mr.  Dodge;  F.  W.  Hill,  Waterbury,  Conn,;  Frank  Libby; 
H.  J.  Wood,  Utica,  N.Y. ;  Fred  H.  Patten,  Bath;  H.  W.  Osgood, 
Pittsfield,  Mass. ;  Harry  Ellsworth,  Providence,  R.L;  E.  S.  Osgood, 
Philadelphia,  Penn. ;  Mr.  White,  Portland;  P.  P.  Kelly,  Melrose,  Mass. ; 
F.  H.  Lougee;  J.  J.  Russell,  Plymouth,  Mass;  J.  F.  Tracy,  Hallowell; 
Alfred  J.  Webb;  Thomas  Nickerson;  Fred  Sproul,  Yeazie;  E.  D. 
Buffinton,  Worcester,  Mass. ;  Mr.  Abbott;  W^m.  G.  Wentworth,  Brewer; 
J.  H.  Lewis;  Joseph  F.  Shields,  Boston,  Mass.;  Ezra  L.  Sterns  and 
Charles  York,  —  a  total  of  144  fish,  weighing  2,440  pounds,  an  average 
weight  of  seventeen  pounds. 

The  open  season  for  salmon  fishing  in  Maine  is  from  April  1  to 
July  15. 

The  Bangor  and  Piscataquis  train  for  Moosehead  Lake  is  made  up 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDEIINESS. 


29 


in  the  Maine  Central  Depot,  and  leaves  at  7.20  a.m.  It  makes  a  cir- 
cular sweep  around  the  water-front  of  the  city,  crossing  the  Kendus- 
keag  Stream  over  a  wooden  bridge.  To  the  left  may  be  seen  the 
Custom  House  and  Post-office  rising  from  the  bed  of  the  stream.  The 
train  stops  at  the  Exchange-street  Depot  a  few  moments,  leaving  it  at 
7.3D.  A  short  distance  beyond  we  pass  under  the  railroad  and  high- 
way bridges  spanning  the  Penobscot,  which  is  on  our  right,  and  con- 
necting Bangor  with  Brewer.  On  one  side  of  the  river  will  be  seen 
enormous  piles  of  lumber  on  the  wharves  and  large  rafts  in  the  water, 
the  products  of  the  mills  above.  The  opposite  bank  of  the  river  is 
high,  and  the  views  along  here  are  very  pretty.  The  road  follows  the 
river  very  closely  for  quite  a  distance,  and  about  a  mile  from  the 
station  you  pass  on  the  right  the  fine  dam  built  for  the  purpose  of 
furnishing  the  city  with  an  unfailing  supply  of  pure  water;  it  also 
furnishes  the  power  to  run  the  inunense  pumps  located  in  the  build- 
ings of  the  Bangor  Water- Works,  siuiated  on  the  left  side  of  the  river, 
just  above  the  dam.  The  river  in  this  vicinity  is  noted  for  its  splendid 
salmon  fishing,  before  spoken  of.  Fine  salmon  in  large  numbers  are 
taken  each  season  at  the  foot  of  the  dam,  and  furnish  most  exciting 
sport  to  the  disciples  of  Izaak  Walton.  The  neat  and  attractive  club- 
house of  the  Bangor  fishermen  may  be  seen  from  the  train  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  Above  the  dam  the  stream  is  much  wider 
than  at  the  city,  and  a  short  distance  beyond  the  water-works  the  train 
passes  Mount  Hope  Cemetery  on  the  left,  and,  as  it  approaches  the 
next  station,  several  long  sheds  on  the  right  are  noticed,  filled  with 
last  blocks  for  shipment;  but  for  all  that  you  never  see  the  last 
block,  because  there  are  always  a  few  scattering  ones  left  in  the 
sheds. 

The  first  stop  is  at  Yeazie,  the  station  being  some  distance  from  the 
river,  which  in  this  vicinity  makes  a  curve,  shooting  away  from  the 
railroad  for  a  mile  or  so.  The  village  has  an  attractive  appearance 
from  the  train,  with  its  pretty  cottages,  and  neat  streets  lined  with 
shade-trees.  Just  before  reaching  Yeazie,  Fort  Hill  rises  in  sight  to 
the  left,  and  is  made  interesting  from  the  fact  that  it  is  the  spot  where 
the  citizens  gathered  to  defend  their  homes  during  the  British  invasion 
of  1814.  Caimon-balls  fired  by  the  fleet  on  that  occasion  are  yet  occa- 
sionally found.  Yeazie  contains  the  smallest  number  of  acres  of  any 
town  in  the  State,  and  was  settled  in  1780,  having  been  named  in  honor 
of  Gen.  Samuel  Yeazie,  a  former  wealthy  resident  of  the  town.  Its 
immense  water-power  is  utilized  by  large  lumber  mills,  which  dispose 


30 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


of  thousands  of  logs  every  year.  We  strike  the  river  again  just  be- 
yond a  large  gravel  bank  on  the  right,  and  notice  a  number  of  large 
piers  in  the  middle  of  the  stream.  The  lumbermen  attach  booms  to 
these  for  the  purpose  of  guiding,  assorting,  and  holding  logs  during 
the  season  of  river  driving.  At  Basin  Mills,  the  next  station,  the 
manufacture  of  lumber  is  the  principal  industry  of  the  village.  The 
water-power  includes  the  entire  volume  of  the  Penobscot,  which  is 
turned  through  the  basin  by  means  of  a  dam  extending  from  the  head 
of  Ayer's  Island  to  the  opposite  shore.  The  village  straggles  along 
the  river  banks,  but  has  some  neat  houses,  and  pretty  streets  shaded 
by  long  rows  of  beautiful  elms,  seen  to  the  right.  The  large  mills  also, 
which  give  employment  to  a  small  army  of  laborers,  can  be  seen  from 
the  train. 

Orono  ("  O  you  know  "  is  about  as  near  as  the  brakeman  comes  to 
it),  where  the  next  halt  is  made,  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Still- 
water River  with  the  Penobscot.  Its  name  is  said  to  perpetuate  the 
memory  of  a  once  famous  chief  of  the  powerful  Tarratines.  The 
Maine  State  College  of  Agriculture  and  Mechanic  Arts,  an  experimen- 
tal school,  has  its  home  here.  Crossing  the  Stillwater  River  over  a 
fine  iron  bridge,  through  a  region  of  dams  and  mills,  we  catch  a  glance 
at  the  angry  waters  sweeping  beneath  us,  and,  continuing  on,  the  sta- 
tion of  Webster,  a  part  of  Orono,  is  passed,  and  two  miles  beyond  we 
whisk  by  the  station  of  Great  Works,  a  village  of  Oldtown,  enveloping 
the  few  loungers  about  the  depot  in  a  cloud  of  dust.  The  greatest 
works  in  Great  Works  are  the  mills  of  the  Penobscot  Chemical  Fibre 
Company,  where  twenty  tons  of  wood-pulp  are  daily  manufactured, 
and  W.  T.  Pearson  &  Co.'s  large  lumber  mill,  where  each  year  twenty- 
five  million  feet  of  logs  are  cut  up.  Upon  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
river  is  the  town  of  Bradley,  also  containing  a  large  number  of  mills. 
A  short  run  now  brings  us  to  Oldtown,  thirteen  miles  from  Bangor, 
our  train  swinging  to  the  left  from  the  Maine  Central  Railroad.  Here 
on  Indian  Island  is  the  home  of  the  remnant  of  the  once  powerful 
Tarratine  tribe,  who  at  one  time  owned  all  the  territory  watered  by 
the  Penobscot.  They  are  in  very  comfortable  circumstances,  and  carry 
on  the  manufacture  of  baskets,  snow-shoes,  and  canoes.  Most  of  the 
men  are  good  guides  and  expert  river-drivers.  Oldtown  is  credited 
with  having  built  and  operated  the  second  railroad  in  the  United 
States.  The  charter  was  procured  in  1833,  and  the  first  train  was  run 
on  Thanksgiving  Day,  ^^ovember,  1836,  and  the  last  in  June,  1870, 
it  having  passed  the  year  before  under  control  of  the  European 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


31 


and  North  American  Railway  Company,  which  discontinued  its 
use. 

Leaving  Oldtown  at  8.05  a.m.  w^e  continue  our  journey  over  the 
Bangor  and  Piscataquis  Railroad,  passing  through  the  back  yards  of 
the  village,  and  again  follow  the  Penobscot.  On  the  right  may  be 
seen  a  new  and  large  four-story  brick  building  used  for  the  manufac- 
ture of  woollen  goods,  and  quite  a  strip  of  Indian  Island.  An  old- 
fashioned  light-draught  wheelbarrow  steamboat  laid  up  on  the  bank  of 
the  river,  several  small  saw-mills,  and  some  of  the  islands  in  the  river, 
are  in  sight  from  the  train  as  it  sweeps  along.  The  Penobscot  in  this 
vicinity  is  quite  crooked,  and  full  of  islands;  and  before  reaching  Pea 
Cove,  the  first  station,  the  train  crosses  three  covered  wooden  bridges. 
The  country  is  flat  and  swampy  the  first  two  or  three  miles,  and  is 
uninteresting  after  we  lose  sight  of  the  Penobscot,  which  happens  just 
before  reaching  the  flag  station  of  Pea  Cove.  From  here  to  Alton,  the 
next  station,  the  train  runs  through  a  pleasant  farming  country,  re- 
vealing nothing  especially  worthy  of  note.  Beyond  Alton  the  land  is 
under  a  partial  state  of  cultivation,  and  rises  fast  to  South  Lagrange, 
near  which  are  high  hills.  From  here,  and  also  from  Milo,  good  views 
of  Mount  Ktaadn  may  be  had  on  a  clear  day.  At  various  points  on 
the  road  you  will  notice  long  piles  of  cord  wood,  part  for  shipment  and 
part  for  the  use  of  the  road.  The  B.  and  P.  engines  are  wood-burn-> 
ers,  and  annually  chew  up  about  four  thousand  cords.  Lagrange,  the 
next  station,  is  a  thriving  farming  town,  — the  last  that  we  pass  through 
in  Penobscot  County.  A  short  run  from  here  brings  us  to  Orneville, 
a  pleasant  farming  town  in  Piscataquis  County.  Much  of  the  land 
along  here  is  partly  wooded,  and  the  views  are  pleasing.  A  short  dis- 
tance before  reaching  Milo  Junction  in  the  town  of  Milo,  we  cross  the 
Piscataquis  River,  which  w^e  see  for  the  first  time,  over  a  substantial 
wooden  latticed  bridge,  and  follow  it  for  many  miles,  crossing  its  head- 
waters a  few  miles  south  of  Moosehead  Lake. 

Milo  Junction,  on  our  right,  is  the  next  station.  From  this  point 
to  the  lake  the  views  are  more  pleasant  from  the  left  side  of  the  train, 
the  Piscataquis  River  being  frequently  in  sight.  Here  connection  is 
made  with  the  Bangor  and  Katahdin  Iron  Works  Railway  for  Milo, 
Brownsville,  and  the  Katahdin  Iron  Works,  nineteen  miles  distant. 
At  the  latter  place  teams  and  guides  can  be  engaged  for  a  trip  to  the 
*'  Gulf,"  a  picturesque  rocky  canon  on  the  west  branch  of  Pleasant 
River.  This  road  is  now  leased  to  and  operated  by  the  Bangor  and 
Piscataquis  Railroad  Company. 


82 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


Leaving  Milo  (in  tliis  vicinity  you  obtain  tlie  best  view  from  the  road 
of  Mount  Ktaadn),  a  ride  of  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes  brings  us  to  the 
station  of  South  Sebec.  Here  the  sportsman  or  tourist  bound  for 
Sebec  Lalve  leaves  the  cars,  and  takes  stage  for  the  hotel  five  miles 
distant;  fare,  twenty-five  cents.  One  can  obtain  guides,  canoes,  and 
campers'  outfits  at  Sebec  Village,  which  clusters  around  the  lower  end 
of  the  lake. 

'J'he  land-locked  salmon  in  Sebec  Lake  furnish  excellent  sport  in  the 
spring,  soon  after  the  ice  goes  out.  They  run  from  a  pound  to  five 
pounds  in  weight,  and  are  as  gamy  as  black  bass;  but  the  salmon  sea- 
son is  over  by  the  middle  of  June.  During  July  and  August  pickerel 
and  white  perch  are  taken  readily.  The  entire  length  of  the  lake  is 
twelve  miles.  The  eastern  half  is  very  narrow, — from  one  to  two 
hundred  rods  wide.  The  western  half  is  nearly  three  miles  widefiom 
north  to  south.  The  Lake  House  stands  at  the  western  end  of  the 
lake,  near  the  mouth  of  Wilson  Stream.  It  has  accommodations  for 
about  thirty  guests;  and  canoes,  boats,  or  camping  outfits  can  be 
obtained  of  the  proprietor.  A  steamer  plies  on  the  lake  during  the 
season  of  summer  travel.  A  number  of  small  ponds  to  the  north  and 
west  of  the  lake  furnish  excellent  trout-fishing. 

Passing  on,  we  stop  for  a  moment  at  East  Dover,  in  sight  of  the  fine 
new  iron  bridge  that  here  spans  the  Piscataquis,  and  from  there  a  short 
ride  brings  us  to  Dover,  the  shire  town  of  Piscataquis  County,  incor- 
porated in  1822,  a  smart  and  enterprising  town,  where  quite  an  amount 
of  manufacturing  is  carried  on,  and  Foxcroft,  first  settled  in  1805,  and 
named  in  honor  of  Hon.  Joseph  D.  Foxcroft,  another  busy  and  wide- 
awake place.  These  towns  are  near  neighbors,  being  situated  opposite 
each  other  on  the  south  and  north  banks  of  the  Piscataquis  River, 
and,  as  the  railroad  runs  near  the  boundary  line  of  the  towns,  one 
depot  answers  for  both  places.  A  few  summer  visitors  are  attracted 
to  both  of  these  places  each  year  by  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  in  the 
vicinity,  and  their  proximity  to  Sebec  Lake,  which  is  only  a  few  miles 
distant.  Fiom  Foxcroft  to  Blethen  Landing  on  the  lake  is  a  distance 
of  about  five  miles;  fare  by  regular  conveyance,  fifty  cents.  The 
steamboat  touches  at  Blethen  Landing  each  way  on  her  trips  up  and 
down  the  lake. 

Aizain  the  train  starts  and  you  pass  the  flag  station  of  Low's  Bridge 
and  Sangerville,  a  pleasant  and  elevated  town,  incorporated  in  1814; 
Guilford,  the  seat  of  a  thriving  country  trade,  where  some  manufac- 
turing is  also  carried  on,  and  Abbot  Village,  arriving  at  Monson  June- 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  AVILDERNESS. 


33 


tion,  in  the  town  of  Abbot,  where  connection  is  made  witli  the  Mon- 
son  Raih'oad  (two-foot  giuige)  for  Monson,  six  miles  distant.  This  is  a 
pleasant  and  thriving  little  village  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  moun- 
tainous forest  country  that  stretches  beyond  it  for  many  miles.  It  has 
a  first-class  hotel,  two  churches,  several  stores,  post-office,  academy, 
and  the  dwelling-houses  are  well  built.  There  are  several  large  slate 
quarries  adjacent  to  the  village,  which  furnish  work  for  some  three 
liundred  men  the  entire  year.  In  Chapter  IV.  we  speak  more  par- 
ticularly of  Monson  and  its  surroundings. 

Leaving  the  junction  the  scenery  grows  wilder  and  more  picturesque 
-with  every  mile  of  our  advance  toward  Moosehead ;  and  the  hills,  w^hich 
Iiavebeen  rolling  up  higher  and  higher  as  we  travelled  northward,  have 
Jiere  attained  to  the  dignity  of  mountains.  Russel  Mountain,  one  of  the 
highest  in  this  vicinity,  can  be  seen  on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  road 
as  you  approach  the  Blanchard  Station,  and  the  view  of  the  valley  is 
charming.  A  ride  of  little  more  than  twenty  minutes  brings  us  to 
Blanchard,  for  several  years  the  terminus  of  the  road.  Some  manu- 
facturing is  done  in  this  town,  and  its  people  are  largely  interested  in 
lumbering.  As  we  leave  Blanchard  we  enter  the  wilderness;  and  the 
line  the  rest  of  the  distance  to  the  lake  is  very  crooked,  making  a 
€urve  here  and  a  bend  there  to  clear  the  natural  obstructions  to  the 
road-bed.  Several  pieces  of  high  trestle-work  are  crossed,  and  the 
views  all  the  way  along  over  the  wide  and  deej),  densely  wooded  valley 
of  the  Piscataquis  to  the  mountains  beyond  are  wild  and  beautiful. 
The  train  makes  one  stop  at  Shirley,  where  is  a  steam  saw-mill,  and 
reaches  the  station  of  Greenville  Junction,  at  the  foot  of  Moosehead 
Lake,  at  twelve  o'clock.  Here  connection  is  made  with  the  Interna- 
tional Railway  of  Maine  (Canadian  Pacific)  for  all  points  east  and 
west,  and  with  steamers  for  Deer  Island.  East  Outlet,  Lily  Bay 
(Roach  River),  Mount  Kineo  House,  and  with  coaches  for  the  Green- 
Tille  hotels.  Dinner  is  all  leady  at  the  restaurant  near  the  depot  on 
arrival  of  train,  and  you  have  plenty  of  time  to  eat  it  before  the 
steamers  start.  The  Hotel  West  offers  good  accommodations  to  those 
who  would  like  to  stop  at  West  Cove,  and  the  Eveleth  House  and  the 
Lake  House  to  those  who  prefer  stopping  at  Greenville  (East  Cove). 
The  foundations  for  a  large  hotel  at  Greenville  Junction  were  put  in 
last  fall,  and  it  is  expected  that  the  hotel  will  be  built  this  summer, 
and  possibly  be  in  readiness  for  guests  by  the  1st  of  July. 

During  the  season  of  summer  travel  the  Bangor  and  Piscataquis 
Railroad  Company  will  run  two  first-class  passenger  trains  a  day  each 


34 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


way  between  Bangor  and  Moosehead  Lake.  Probably  the  afternoon 
train  will  leave  Bangor  on  the  arrival  of  the  "Flying  Yankee"  ex- 
press from  Boston;  if  so,  passengers  will  be  able  to  leave  Boston 
about  nine  in  the  morning  and  reach  the  lake  the  same  evening  be- 
tween eight  and  nine  o'clock,  stopping  at  West  Cove  over  night,  pro- 
ceeding onward  by  boat  the  next  morning. 


CHAPTER  11. 


CANADIAN  PACIFIC  ROUTE  (International  Railway  of  Maine) 
FROM  NORTHERN,  NEW  ENGLAND,  CANADA  AND  THE 
WEST  TO  MOOSE  RIVER  PONDS,  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE,  LAKE 
ONAWAY  (Ship  Pond),  KATAHDIN  IRON  WORKS,  SCHOODIC 
LAKE,  AND  MATTAWAMKEAG. 


OURISTS  or  sportsmen  from  Northern  New  England, 
Canada,  and  the  West,  may  travel  by  any  route  to 
Lennoxville,  P.Q.,  where  the  Canadian  Pacific  Rail- 
way, the  Grand  Trunk  Pvailway,  and  the  Passumpsic 
Division  of  the  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  all  con- 
nect. Beyond  Lennoxville,  at  present  writing,  there 
are  two  trains  a  day  to  Lake  Megantic,  leaving  Len- 
noxville at  1.20  and  7.55  p.m.,  arriving  at  Lake 
Megantic  at  6.00  and  10.25  p.m.  Here  you  stop  over  night,  and  leave 
at  8.30  A.M.  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday  for  Greenville  Junc- 
tion, at  the  foot  of  Moosehead  Lake,  arriving  at  about  3.00  p.m.,  stop- 
ping to  dine  on  the  way.  This  is  the  terminus  of  trains  in  an  easterly 
direction  at  present,  and  I  have  found  it  impossible  thus  far  to  learn 
at  what  time  the  present  year  the  route  will  be  opened  to  Mattawam- 
keag,  but  probably  in  July.  We  learn  that  the  running  time  of  trains 
will  soon  be  changed  so  that  the  through  train  will  leave  Lennoxville 
about  midnight,  after  arrival  of  trains  from  Boston  and  the  West,  in 
season  to  reach  the  Moosehead  station  at  the  Kennebec  Dam  (Wil- 
son's) at  about  six  o'clock  in  the  morning.  This  will  enable  parties 
from  Boston  visiting  the  lake  to  reach  it  via  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway  in  about  twenty-two  hours.  That  is  to  say,  if  you  leave  Bos- 
ton at  8.30  A.M.,  you  would  reach  Wilson's  Hotel  at  the  outlet  at  six 
the  next  morning,  Greenville  Junction  at  6.15,  and  Mount  Kineo  at 
7.00,  provided  the  boats  made  close  connection  with  the  train. 

The  country  between  Lennoxville  and  Lake  Megantic  is  mostly  a 
wilderness,  with  a  few  clearings  along  the  route,  at  which  are  the  fol- 

35 


36 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


lowing  stations,  coming  in  the  order  named:  Lennoxville,  Cookshire, 
Berry,  Gould's,  Scottstown,  Spring  Hill,  Sandy  Bay,  Lake  Megantic. 
Cookshire  is  the  largest  place  along  the  line,  and  is  the  junction  of  the 
International  and  Upper  Coos  Railroads,  the  latter  running  to  West 
Stewartstown,  Colebrook,  and  jSTorth  Stratford  on  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway.  There  is  little  of  interest  to  be  seen  from  the  train  between 
Lennoxville  and  Megantic,  and  one  might  as  well  make  the  trip  be- 
tween these  two  points  in  the  night  as  the  day  time,  so  far  as  the 
scenery  is  concerned ;  but  the  trip  beyond  Megantic  should  be  made  by 
daylight,  as  the  route  runs  through  a  very  pretty  country. 

The  village  clustered  around  the  northeast  corner  of  Lake  Megan- 
tic is  called  Agnes,  and  leaving  the  station  here  the  train  crosses  the 
Chaudiere  River,  and  for  several  miles  skirts  the  lake;  and  before  los- 
ing sight  of  this  sheet  of  water,  which  is  on  the  right  of  the  train,  you 
have  several  pretty  views  of  different  portions  of  the  lake,  with  high 
hills  beyond.  From  the  moment  the  lake  finally  disappears,  the  train 
plunges  into  the  wilderness,  and  the  view  for  several  miles  is  some- 
what obscured,  although  an  occasional  mountain-top  can  be  seen  in 
the  distance.  The  first  stop  is  made  at  Stearns,  in  the  township  of 
Ditchfield,  in  the  Province  of  Quebec.  Here  is  a  small  mill  that  cuts 
up  spruce  for  pulp  wood,  and  the  output  is  three  or  four  car-loads  a 
day.  Starting  again,  the  train  continues  through  the  forest,  giving 
now  and  then  a  view  of  some  wooded  mountain  height,  and  makes  its 
next  stop  at  a  station  called  the  Boundary,  which  is  on  the  Canadian 
side  of  the  line.  A  house,  and  a  water-tank  to  quench  the  thirst  of 
our  iron  steed,  were  all  we  saw  here.  Soon  after  we  leave  this  station 
we  run  through  a  pass  in  the  Boundary  range,  and  enter  the  State  of 
Maine,  and,  four  miles  from  the  boundary  line,  pull  up  again,  this 
time  at  a  station  called  Beattie's. 

The  rise  from  Lake  Megantic  to  the  height  of  land  is  very  gradual, 
and  almost  imperceptible,  and  the  curves  easy;  but  from  the  boundary 
line  to  Beattie's,  a  distance  of  four  miles,  there  is  a  heavy  down  grade, 
and  several  sharp  curves.  The  view  from  this  station  looking  back  is 
very  fine,  the  Boundary  Mountains  sweeping  around  in  a  semicircle, 
thickly  wooded  to  their  summits.  Many  of  the  peaks  are  sugar-loaf 
in  form,  and  very  symmetrical,  and,  in  their  green  robes,  are  quite 
attractive. 

Three  brothers  named  Beattie  have  built  a  large  steam  saw-mill  at 
this  point  on  the  road,  and  are  fast  making  a  hole  in  the  howling  wil- 
derness around  them.    They  have  bought,  or  leased,  sixty-five  thou- 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


39 


sand  acres  of  land  in  the  vicinity  for  lumbering  purposes,  and  quite  a 
village  will  probably  grow  up  here.  The  Custom  House  is  established 
at  this  point;  and  Mr.  Boothby,  the  officer  in  charge,  is  a  very  pleas- 
ant person  to  meet.  He  knows  all  about  the  country,  and  is  well 
posted  on  the  haunts  of  the  trout  and  deer,  being  an  ardent  sportsman 
himself. 

Beyond  Beattie's  the  road-bed  slabs  a  mountain,  cutting  through 
a  deep  ledge  on  the  right;  and  a  short  run  brings  us  to  another  steam 
saw-mill,  owned  by  Carswell  &  French,  and  the  station,  twenty-one 
miles  from  Megantic,  is  called  Carswell  from  one  of  the  mill  proprie- 
tors. This  mill  is  also  making  another  big  hole  in  the  forest,  and  is 
producing  eighteen  or  twenty  car-loads  of  sawn  lumber  a  week.  At 
this  station  we  strike  the  headwaters  of  Moose  River,  which  we  follow 
quite  closely  nearly  to  Moosehead  Lake.  There  are  already  a  number 
of  buildings  here,  and  in  the  course  of  time  villages  will  grow  up 
around  all  these  mills. 

Beyond  Carswell  for  several  miles  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  moun- 
tains, the  road  being  all  in  the  wilderness  with  the  exception  of  one 
large  clearing,  probably  a  lumberman's  hay  farm.  At  the  next  station, 
Holeb,  thirty  miles  from  Megantic,  a  short  stop  is  made.  This  station 
is  named  from  the  township,  and  there  is  a  good  chance  for  a  village 
to  grow  up,  as  there  is  nothing  but  a  water-tank  and  a  shanty  here 
at  present.  For  the  last  five  or  six  miles  before  reaching  Holeb  the 
country  is  comparatively  level,  and  the  views  along  the  road  quite 
pretty.  There  are  a  large  number  of  mountains  in  sight  from  this 
point,  but  none  appear  to  be  very  lofty.  The  highest,  however,  are 
seen  to  the  right  of  the  train.  There  are  quite  a  number  of  logging 
and  construction  camps  all  along  the  line;  and  parties  who  wished  to 
camp  out  anywhere  on  the  Maine  side  of  the  Boundary  could  find 
plenty  of  comfortable  shelters  without  carrying  tents,  almost  any- 
where between  the  Boundary  and  Greenville  Junction. 

From  Carswell  the  road  follows  Moose  River  till  it  strikes  Holeb 
Pond,  then  skirts  the  south  shore  of  the  pond,  following  along  its 
entire  length ;  beyond  it  curves  to  the  north,  running  a  short  distance 
through  a  dense  forest,  and  then  strikes  Attean  Pond  near  the  western 
corner.  There  are  fine  views  of  mountains  along  this  part  of  the 
line.  The  road  follows  the  shore  of  Attean  Pond  quite  closely,  giv- 
ing many  pretty  glimpses  of  this  lovely  sheet  of  water.  For  some 
distance  the  road-bed  is  so  high  above  the  pond  that  you  look  down 
upon  it,  and  in  one  place  the  road-bed  has  been  dug  out  of  the  side  of 
the  mountain. 


40 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


Following  along  Attean  Pond  on  the  north  side,  you  cross  the  out- 
let in  full  sight  of  Wood  Pond  on  the  left.  A  fine  iron  bridge,  with 
trestle  work  at  each  end,  spans  the  stream  here,  and  a  few  rods  east  of 
the  bridge  the  train  pulls  up  in  the  township  of  Jackman,  at  the  sta- 
tion of  the  same  name.  This  is  one  of  the  prettiest  places  on  the 
road,  and  the  mountain  views  are  charming.  Off  to  the  riglit,  on  the 
east  bank  of  Attean  Pond  Stream,  is  Pat  McKenney's  farm-house  and 
hotel,  in  sight  from  the  train,  and  here  you  can  get  dinner.  Many  a 
camping-out  party  in  this  vicinity  have  been  glad  to  avail  themselves 
of  the  hospitalities  of  this  house,  and  have  always  found  a  hearty  wel- 
come. This  is  the  station  where  people  bound  for  Moose  River  village 
leave  the  train.  It  is  a  little  over  a  mile  by  the  county  road  to  the 
village. 

Steaming  on  again,  the  train  follows  the  eastern  shore  of  Wood 
Pond,  on  your  left,  in  sight  of  that  pretty  sheet  of  water,  and  a  large 
range  of  high  mountains  beyond  it.  As  the  train  swings  more  to  the 
east  we  lose  sight  of  the  pond,  then  run  through  another  strip  of 
forest,  then  pass  a  large  clearing  on  the  right.  Along  here  for  several 
miles  there  is  quite  a  deep  cut.  A  run  of  four  or  five  miles  brings  us. 
in  sight  of  Long  Pond,  and  we  follow  its  southern  shore  the  entire 
distance,  stopping  at  Long  Lake  station,  fifty-one  miles  f rom  Megantic,. 
and  Trout  Brook,  fifty-six  and  a  half  miles.  As  we  follow  the  shore 
of  Long  Pond  we  obtain  many  pretty  views  across  the  water,  and  high 
mountains  on  the  north  side  of  the  pond  remain  in  sight  for  some 
distance. 

After  leaving  Long  Pond  the  train  runs  through  the  wilderness,  by 
a  number  of  logging  camps,  and  makes  its  next  stop  just  across  Misery 
Stream  at  the  station  of  Askwith,  a  little  over  sixty-five  miles  from 
Megantic.  A  substantial  iron  bridge,  with  split  granite  abutments, 
one  of  the  finest  on  the  road,  crosses  Misery  Stream,  and  at  each  end 
is  a  long  trestle  which  will  probably  be  filled  in. 

From  Askwith  a  short  run  brings  us  to  the  West  Outlet,  where  a 
momentary  halt  is  made,  and  then,  dashing  on  through  the  forest,  we 
soon  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  lake,  and  then  a  fine  view  of  it,  as  the 
engineer  pulls  up  the  train  at  the  station  of  Moosehead,  on  our  right, 
seventy-three  miles  from  Megantic  Lake,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
East  Outlet,  and  but  a  few  rods  in  the  rear  of  Wilson's  hotel,  the 
Outlet  House,  in  sight  to  the  left  of  the  train.  The  view  from  this 
station  of  the  lake  and  mountains  beyond  it  is  one  of  the  prettiest  on 
the  line  of  the  road. 


MAP  OF  MOOSEDEAD  LAKE. 


f 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


43 


From  the  East  Outlet  we  skirt  the  western  shore  of  Moosehead 
Lake,  obtaining  frequent  glimpses,  and  oftentimes  good  views,  of  that 
lovely  sheet  of  water  and  the  shores  beyond.  In  the  last  ten  miles 
there  are  several  rock  cuttings,  but  the  grades  are  not  heavy.  A  half 
hour's  run  from  the  East  Outlet  brings  us  to  Greenville  Junction, 
eighty-three  and  a  half  miles  from  Megantic,  and  here  we  leave  the 
train.  The  road  here  crosses  the  Bangor  and  Piscataquis,  and  con- 
tinues on  to  Mattawamkeag  via  Eagle  Stream,  and,  crossing  Wilson 
Stream  about  two  miles  from  the  Lower  Wilson  Pond,  from  here  it 
parallels  the  stream  for  several  miles,  passing  to  the  south  of,  and  in 
close  proximity  to,  Boarstone  Mountain,  then  follows  the  north  shore 
of  two  of  the  Greenwood  Ponds,  cutting  across  the  carry  between  them 
and  Ship  Pond,  then  follows  the  southern  shore  of  Ship  Pond,  where 
there  will  be  a  station.  Beyond  here  it  crosses  the  outlet  of  Ship 
Pond,  thence  by  the  southern  shore  of  the  Benson  Ponds,  then  be- 
tween the  second  and  third  Buttermilk  Ponds,  and  then  strikes  the 
head  of  Roaring  Brook,  and  follows  it  a  few  miles.  Turning  at  right 
angles  to  the  brook  it  runs  southeast  for  a  few  miles,  then,  entering 
the  town  of  Brownsville,  crosses  the  Bangor  and  Katahdin  Iron 
Works  Railway,  and  the  main  stream  of  Pleasant  River.  At  Browns- 
ville the  repair  and  machine  shops  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway 
will  be  located. 

The  road  continues  through  Brownsville  in  a  general  easterly  direc- 
tion, and  next  reaches  Schoodic  Lake,  the  southern  end  of  which  it 
hugs  closely,  crosses  the  outlet,  and  passes  about  two  miles  south  of 
Lake  Seboois,  then,  changing  to  a  northeast  direction,  passes  close  to 
the  southern  end  of  another  lake,  crossing  its  outlet,  and  beyond 
crosses  a  number  of  other  streams,  gradually  drawing  near  the  Penob- 
scot River,  which  it  crosses  at  Mattawamkeag,  and  at  the  railroad 
station  makes  its  junction  with  the  Maine  Central. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  this  road  from  Megantic  Lake  to  Matta- 
wamkeag runs  through  an  almost  primeval  wilderness  about  all  the 
way,  there  being  only  some  half  a  dozen  small  villages  its  entire 
length,  although,  of  course,  in  time  little  hamlets  will  spring  up  here 
and  there  as  different  industries  are  developed.  This  new  road  has 
opened  up  an  immense  sporting  region,  where  brook  trout,  land- 
locked salmon,  deer,  caribou,  and  smaller  game  are  plenty,  and 
numerous  excursions  can  be  made  all  along  its  line,  and  probably  on 
mixed  trains  sportsmen  will  be  allowed  to  take  boats  or  canoes  with 
them. 


44 


GUIDE  TO  moosehp:ad  lake 


Moose  River  village,  East  Outlet,  Mount  Kineo,  Greenville  Junction, 
Greenville,  Monson,  Lake  Onaway,  Sebec  Lake,  Katalidin  Iron  Works, 
Brownsville,  and  Sclioodic  Lake,  will  all  be  good  centres  from  which 
to  start  on  many  and  varied  excursions,  keeping  in  the  heart  of  the 
wilderness  all  the  time. 

As  there  are  no  trains  running  east  of  Greenville  it  is  impossible  for 
the  writer  to  go  over  the  entire  length  of  the  road  as  he  had  intended, 
but  this  pleasure  he  hopes  to  enjoy  the  coming  summer,  and  in  the 
next  year's  edition  of  the  Guide  will  give  the  results  of  his  experi- 
ence. But  as  the  entire  road  is  correctly  laid  dow^n  on  the  large  map 
which  accompanies  this  volume,  the  work  having  been  done  by  one 
of  the  civil  engineers  of  the  railroad  company,  with  the  information 
already  given,  he  feels  confident  that  those  who  wish  to  visit  the  line 
of  country  adjacent  to  the  road  can  do  it  understandingly. 

When  this  piece  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  is  opened  to  the  public, 
there  will  be  several  routes  from  Boston  by  which  one  can  reach 
Moosehead  Lake  and  other  places  in  the  wilderness  of  Central  Maine 
by  this  line.  Tickets  will  probably  be  on  sale  in  Boston  via  Boston 
and  Maine  Railroad  to  Portland,  Grand  Trunk  Railway  to  North 
Stratford,  Upper  Coos  Railroad  to  Cookshire,  and  the  Canadian 
Pacific  to  Moosehead  Lake  and  points  beyond.  Another  route  will 
likely  be  by  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  to  Nashua  Junction,  Concord 
Railroad  to  Concord,  Boston,  Concord  and  Montreal  Railroad  to 
Groveton  Junction,  Grand  Trunk  Railway  to  Stratford,  Upper  Coos 
Railroad  to  Cookshire,  and  Canadian  Pacific  to  Moosehead  and  all 
points  east,  and  it  may  be  that  several  other  excursion  routes  via  the 
northern  roads  will  be  opened.  It  is  hard  at  this  writing  to  give  an 
idea  of  all  the  routes  that  this  new  line  will  open;  but  from  the 
author's  knowledge  of  the  country,  he  feels  confident  that  excursion 
tickets  will  be  issued  over  the  two  routes  mentioned  above  on  the 
regular  opening  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  to  Moosehead  Lake.  Having 
now  given  all  the  different  routes  by  which  Moosehead  Lake  and 
Mount  Kineo  may  be  reached,  we  will  retrace  our  steps,  and  devote  a 
chapter  to  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Katahdin  Iron  Works, 
and  also  one  to  Monson  and  the  attractions  it  offers  to  the  sportsman 
and  tourist. 


CHAPTEE  III. 

FROM  3IILO  JUNCTION  TO  BROWNVILL.E  AND  KATAH- 
DIN  IRON-WORKS.— FISHING  RESORTS  IN  THE  VICIN- 
ITY.—THE  GULF  AND  ITS  SURROUNDINGS. 

HANGING  cars  at  Milo  Junction, 
and  securing  a  seat  on  the  right  of 
tlie  train,  a  short  run,  during  which 
the  train  makes  a  circular  sweep 
around  the  base  of  a  large  hill, 
brings  us  to  the  village  of  Milo, 
where  there  is  considerable  lumber 
manufactured.  The  Pleasant  River 
is  in  sight  on  the  right  from  here 
nearly  to  the  end  of  the  road,  and 
furnishes  many  charming  and  pic- 
turesque views.  Continuing  on  for 
five  miles,  we  reach  the  station  of 
Brown ville,  where  our  next  stop  is 
made.  The  town  of  Brownville  was  incorporated  in  1824,  and  is 
celebrated  for  the  fine  quality  of  its  slate.  It  contains  several  of  the 
largest  quarries  in  New  England,  furnishing  employment  for  a  large 
number  of  men.    There  are  also  a  number  of  mills  here. 

A  mile  beyond  Brownville  Village  a  good  branch  road  runs  north- 
east to  Schoodic  Lake,  four  miles  distant  from  the  main  thoroughfare. 
There  is  good  trout  fishing  at  this  lake.  A  small  steamer  plies  upon 
it  in  summer,  and  boats  and  canoes  can  also  be  hired.  This  lake  is 
twelve  miles  long,  about  three  wide,  and  has  heavily  timbered  shores. 
It  is  a  very  pretty  sheet  of  w^ater.  A  logging  road  leaves  the  Schoodic 
Lake  road  near  Norton's,  and  continues  on  to  South  Twin  Lake,  pass- 
ing near  the  Ebeeme  Ponds  and  Jo  Merry  Lakes.  Teams  and  guides 
can  be  procured  at  Brownville  for  a  trip  to  the  ponds  and  lakes  above 
spoken  of.  With  good  luck  you  can  get  through  to  the  Jo  Merry 
Lakes  in  a  day.    The  Ebeeme  Ponds  are  about  half  a  mile  apart,  and 

45 


46 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


are  connected  by  the  East  Branch  of  Pleasant  River,  navigable  part  of 
the  distance.  In  this  whole  vicinity  there  are  good  hunting  and  fish- 
ing, and  picturesque  scenery.  Although  there  is  no  hotel  at  Schoodic 
Lake  at  the  time  we  are  writing,  it  is  probable  that  sportsmen  may  be 
able  to  find  acconniiodations  at  the  foot  of  the  lake  this  season,  as  a 
large  birch  mill  is  to  be  built  there  this  spring,  and  a  small  settlement 
will  grow  up  around  it.    The  railroad  will  also  have  a  station  there. 

Two  miles  and  a  half  beyond  we  reach  the  crossing  of  the  Canadian 
Pacific  Eailway.  Here  a  large  village  will  undoubtedly  grow  up,  as 
the  machine  and  repair  shops  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  are  to  be  built 
here,  and  will  necessarily  give  employment  to  a  large  number  of  men. 
About  twenty  buildings  have  already  been  erected,  and  others  are  in 
process  of  construction.  Schoodic  Lake,  above  mentioned,  can  be 
reached  from  this  point  by  the  cars  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway. 

Between  Brownville  Junction  and  the  Iron- Works  the  railroad  runs 
mostly  through  a  dense  forest;  frequent  pretty  glimpses  of  the  Pleas- 
ant River  are  caught,  however,  from  time  to  time,  from  the  right-hand 
side  of  the  train,  and  fine  views  of  Baker,  Spruce,  Horseback,  White 
Cap,  and  Chairback  Mountains,  that  surround  the  Iron- Works  Village, 
may  be  seen  from  both  sides  of  the  cars  when  within  a  couple  of  miles 
of  the  depot.  The  great  tornado  that  swept  through  Maine  in  Novem- 
ber, 1883,  leaving  such  a  trail  of  devastation  behind  it,  did  a  great  deal 
of  damage  to  the  timber  along  the  line  of  this  road,  but  time  and  the 
axe  have  removed  all  traces  of  it.  The  railroad  ends  at  the  Iron 
Furnace,  and  the  depot  is  located  but  a  few  rods  from  the  hotel,  which 
is  in  sight  from  the  station.  A  telegraph  line  runs  from  the  Iron- 
Works  to  Milo  Junction,  giving  connection  with  lines  all  over  the 
country. 

At  the  time  of  the  hurricane  the  most  of  the  Iron  Company's  build- 
ings were  burned  to  the  ground ;  but  they  have  since  been  rebuilt,  and 
some  additions  made.  The  village  is  small,  there  being  but  one  store; 
the  hotel,  the  Iron  Company's  buildings,  the  buildings  of  the  Railroad 
Company,  and  a  few^  small  houses  inhabited  by  the  workmen  and  lum- 
bermen, are  about  all  there  is  of  the  settlement.  The  time  from  Bangor 
to  the  Iron-Works  is  three  hours  and  a  half,  and  there  are  two  trains 
each  way  daily,  excepting  Sundays.  The  fare  from  Bangor  to  the 
Iron-Works  is  $2.50;  and  from  Milo  to  the  Iron-Works,  $1.00. 

As  you  leave  the  cars  you  will  notice  the  appearance  of  iron  every- 
where. On  the  road,  in  the  streams,  around  the  buildings,  and  away 
to  the  west  you  can  see  the  Ore  Mountain,  where  the  iron  is  mined. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


47 


The  Katahdin  Iron  Company  at  their  works  turn  out  the  best  car- 
wheel  iron  in  this  country,  tlie  furnaces  being  all  fed  with  charcoal. 
When  the  furnaces  are  in  full  blast  about  seventy-five  men  find  employ- 
ment here,  and  some  four  thousand  tons  of  iron  are  manufactured 
each  year,  which  finds  a  ready  market.  The  Ore  Mountain,  where 
the  iron  is  obtained,  is  but  a  short  distance  from  the  hotel,  and  is  well 
worth  a  visit.  In  digging  for  the  ore  many  curious  specimens  of 
former  vegetable  matter  are  unearthed,  such  as  leaves,  ferns,  grasses, 
limbs  of  trees,  etc.,  that  in  the  course  of  years,  and  through  some 
chemical  process  of  nature,  have  all  been  turned  to  iron,  but  still 
retain  their  former  shape,  and  the  delicate  veins  in  the  ferns  and 
leaves  are  as  perfect  as  they  were  before  the  change. 

The  Silver  Lake  Hotel  has  been  recently  enlarged  and  improved, 
and  offers  to  the  sportsman  or  pleasure-seeker  comfortable  quarters  at 
reasonable  prices.  An  energetic  and  capable  manager  has  been 
engaged  to  run  the  house  the  present  season,  and,  under  his  efficient 
rule,  the  hotel  will  without  doubt  continue  its  long  career  of  prosperity. 

This  place  is  fast  attaining  a  popularity  as  a  summer  resort  for  in- 
valids, who  visit  it  for  the  purpose  of  drinking  the  celebrated  waters 
of  the  mineral  springs,  of  which  there  are  several  in  the  vicinity. 
These  iron  and  sulphur  spring  waters  have  been  found  to  contain 
unusual  tonic  properties,  and  as  a  cleanser  and  purifier  of  the  blood 
they  are  unequalled.  They  are  also  found  invaluable  for  all  kinds  of 
weakness  and  female  complaints,  and  thousands  who  have  visited  the 
hotel  from  a  distance  have  been  greatly  benefited,  and  many  entirely 
cured ,-vfrom  drinking  the  waters. 

As  will  be  seen  from  a  glance  at  our  large  map,  there  are  quite  a 
number  of  ponds  within  a  radius  of  ten  miles  from  the  village,  all  of 
which  furnish  good  trout  fishing.  Houston  Pond,  four  miles  distant, 
is  the  largest,  being  about  five  miles  long  ;  reached  from  the  hotel  by 
a  good  road  to  Little  Houston  Pond,  then  about  two  miles  farther  to 
the  dam  at  Houston  Pond.  Long  Pond,  a  pretty  sheet  of  water, 
about  three  and  a  half  miles  long,  is  eight  miles  from  the  hotel,  and 
is  reached  by  following  the  carriage  road  to  the  foot  of  the  Gulf,  where 
Mr.  William  P.  Dean  has  erected  a  suspension  foot-bridge  over  the 
stream,  and  then  by  a  good  trail  the  rest  of  the  way.  Mr.  Dean,  who 
lives  at  the  Iron-Works  Village,  is  one  of  the  best  guides  in  this  vicin- 
ity, and  is  also  a  photographer.  He  has  a  comfortable  camp  on  the 
south  shore  of  the  pond,  and  boats  and  canoes  to  let.  There  are  land- 
locked salmon  as  well  as  trout  in  this  pond.    Ten  miles  north  of  the 


48 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


village,  by  the  old  tote-road  to  Lake  Chesuncook,  now  in  good  order 
(1889),  is  B  Pond,  more  resorted  to  in  winter  than  summer  for  fishing. 
Mr.  E.  H.  Gerrish  of  Bangor  has  a  camp  there,  and  his  services  as 
guide  can  be  secured.  East  and  West  Chairback  Ponds,  and  Spruce 
Mountain  Pond,  distant  in  order  named  from  the  village,  six,  seven, 
and  eight  miles,  are  often  resorted  to  by  fishermen,  who  find  plenty  of 
small  trout  in  them.  The  Gulf  road  follows  up  the  stream  on  the  east 
side  of  Baker  Mountain  to  Big  Lyford  Pond  and  the  West  Branch 
Ponds,  about  twelve  miles  from  the  hotel.  All  these  back  ponds, 
which  are  but  seldom  visited,  are  well  filled  with  small  trout,  and  fur- 
nish very  satisfactory  fishing. 

If  you  have  the  time  to  spare  you  will  find  that  you  can  pass  several 
days  or  weeks  here  very  pleasantly,  as  the  Ore  Mountain,  the  Mineral 
Springs,  and  the  Blast  Furnace,  where  the  celebrated  Katahdin  char- 
coal iron  is  manufactured,  are  all  worth  visiting.  The  liquid  iron  is 
drawn  from  the  furnace  three  times  each  twenty-four  hours,  at  8  a.m., 
4  P.M.,  and  12  o'clock  midnight,  and  run  into  the  moulds;  and  it  is  a 
very  interesting  sight,  especially  the  midnight  ''draw,"  when  the 
molten  iron,  like  a  fiery  serpent,  runs  glowing  and  hissing  through 
the  channels  of  sand,  filling  the  moulds,  and  sending  out  light  and 
heat  like  some  huge  comet.  Silver  Lake,  Houston  Pond,  and  the 
dozen  or  more  trout  streams  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  hotel 
furnish  excellent  chances  for  boating  and  fishing.  There  are  good 
carriage  roads  in  the  neighborhood,  and,  if  you  wish  to  drive,  teams 
may  be  procured  from  the  hotel.  If  you  have  an  aspiring  mind,  and 
would  climb  mountains,  you  can  make  pedestrian  excursions  to  the 
summits  of  Chairback  and  Horseback  Mountains,  from  both  of  which 
good  views  of  the  surrounding  country  can  be  obtained.  The  dis- 
tance from  the  hotel  to  the  top  of  either  mountain  is  about  four  miles, 
and  it  will  take  a  day  for  each  excursion.  Other  mountains  in  the 
vicinity  are  Baker,  Spruce,  Barren,  and  White  Cap,  the  latter  fifteen 
miles  from  the  hotel,  and  requiring  two  days  for  a  trip  to  its  summit. 
The  larger  number  of  these  mountains  are  over  three  thousand  feet 
above  sea  level. 

The  captive  deer,  a  buck  and  a  doe,  kept  by  Mr.  E.  A.  Sjortedt,  in 
his  yard  nearly  opposite  the  hotel,  are  quite  a  curiosity  to  strangers 
stopping  at  the  Iron-Works,  most  of  whom  visit  these  rangers  of  the 
w^oods.  The  deer  are  now  quite  tame,  and  are  favorites  with  the 
ladies. 

The  country  for  a  large  circle  around  Katahdin  Iron  Works  is  un- 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDEIINESS. 


49 


settled,  and  a  complete  wilderness,  and  in  the  fall  one  can  obtain  ex- 
cellent partridge-shooting,  besides  having  a  chance  at  larger  game,  such 
as  foxes,  deer,  caribou,  and  the  common  black  bear,  which  are  to  be 
found,  with  the  aid  of  a  skilful  guide,  without  much  trouble.  The 
following  amusing  incident  was  an  actual  occurrence:  — 

One  day,  several  years  ago,  while  Billings,  the  guide,  and  a  gentle- 
man from  Bangor  were  driving  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Iron-Works,  they 
were  surprised  by  seeing  a  large  black  bear  come  out  of  the  woods  on 
their  right  and  cross  the  road  a  few  rods  in  front  of  them.  Their 
rifles  lay  in  the  bottom  of  the  wagon,  but  the  bear  crossed  so  quickly 
they  did  not  try  to  use  them.  The  first  bear  had  scarcely  reached  the 
woods  on  the  left  of  the  road,  when  out  stalked  a  second  from  the 
right  hand.  He  shuffled  across  the  road  so  fast  that  the  colonel  had 
scarcely  time  to  say,  '*  There's  another  bear.  Billings,"  before  the  ani- 
mal was  out  of  sight.  As  he  disappeared,  both  men  made  a  dive  for 
their  rifles,  and  while  they  were  getting  them  ready  to  use,  out  from 
the  same  piece  of  woods  came  a  third  bear,  wiiich  stalked  solemnly 
across  the  road,  stopping  in  the  middle  of  it  to  take  a  good  look  at  the 
team.  This  was  too  much  for  Billings,  who  jumped  up  on  his  feet, 
exclaiming,  "My  stars,  colonel,  the  woods  are  full  of  bears!"  and, 
cocking  his  rifle,  let  drive  at  Bruin  over  the  head  of  the  horse.  The 
bear  was  not  hit,  however;  but  they  stopped  the  horse  and  took  to 
the  woods,  but  did  not  get  another  glimpse  at  those  "  bears."  About 
a,  week  after  this  incident,  Billings  set  a  couple  of  iron  traps  in  the 
vicinity,  but  was  not  successful  in  catching  a  bear,  and  he  concluded 
that  the  three  he  had  seen  were  looking  for  a  good  place  in  which  to 
den  during  the  winter,  and  had  kept  on  travelling  for  some  distance. 

Before  visiting  the  Gulf  you  had  better  procure  the  services  of  a 
guide,  and  we  can  recommend  Wm.  P.  Dean  of  the  Iron- Works  Vil- 
lage, or  T.  W.  Billings  of  Brownville,  both  of  whom  are  perfectly 
familiar  with  this  whole  section  of  country. 

The  Gulf  is  located  on  the  west  branch  of  Pleasant  River,  in  the 
eastern  township  of  the  Bowdoin  College  Grant,  and  is  a  rocky  canon 
in  the  mountains,  three  miles  or  more  long.  From  the  Silver  Lake 
Hotel  to  the  head  of  the  Gulf  is  a  little  more  than  ten  miles,  of  which 
the  first  six  can  be  done  comfortably  on  a  buckboard,  and  the  re- 
mainder on  foot.  The  road  runs  for  three  miles  through  a  rough 
clearing,  and  then  enters  the  forest,  near  where  three  townships 
corner.  In  summer  the  road  is  dry,  and  the  streams  so  low  that  they 
can  be  easily  forded.    There  is  no  difficulty  in  following  the  road, 


50 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


which  is  clear  and  well  defined.  A  mile  above  the  foot  of  the  Gulf 
you  reach  the  bridge  over  Gulf  Hagas  Stream,  a  sparkling  brook  that 
comes  tumbling  down  from  Spruce  Mountain,  and  this  brook  has  a 
series  of  cascades  and  falls  well  worth  your  inspection.  Arrived  at 
the  upper  end  of  the  Gulf,  you  will  notice  the  dam,  seven  hundred  feet 
long,  situated  at  the  head  of  a  rocky  gorge,  where  the  canon  really 
begins.  Six  hundred  thousand  feet  of  lumber  were  used  in  building, 
this  dam. 

Directly  below  is  a  series  of  beautiful  falls  and  cascades,  and  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river  is  a  cave  fifty  feet  deep.  The  banks  of  the 
stream  at  this  place  are  about  fifty  feet  high,  and  are  composed  of 
slate  ledges,  whose  tops  are  covered  with  several  varieties  of  moss,  and 
a  thick  growth  of  spruce,  fir,  and  pine.  A  short  distance  below,  the 
ledges  that  confine  the  stream  increase  to  a  hundred  feet  in  height. 
The  banks  are  curved  nearly  to  a  half-circle,  giving  one  the  idea  of 
an  amphitheatre.  In  the  centre  of  this  half-circle,  a  heavy  volume  of 
water  makes  a  jump  of  thirty  feet  through  a  natural  cut  in  the  rock,, 
and  pours  with  a  roar  of  thunder  into  the  abyss  below.  Billings' 
Falls  are  one  of  the  most  considerable  falls  in  the  Gulf.  Our  engrav- 
ing is  from  a  drawing  made  during  the  summer,  when  there  is  a  me- 
dium fall  of  water.  During  the  spring  and  fall  freshets  the  whole 
face  of  the  ledge  is  covered,  but  the  tourist  or  sportsman  rarely  sees 
the  stream  when  it  presents  such  an  appearance.  Just  to  the  left  of 
where  the  water  pours  over  the  rock  is  a  strong  eddy,  where  the  bub- 
bles of  foam  gather  and  grow  until  they  form  grotesque  shapes,  re- 
minding one  of  white  beaver  hats,  cream-lemon  pies,  or  innumerable 
ice-creams  that  float  continually  in  circles.  Xever  for  a  moment  still, 
the  eye  soon  wearies  in  following  them  on  their  ceaseless  rounds.  The 
water  below  the  fall  is  black  and  deep.  From  out  this  dark  pool  the 
stream  dances  onward  in  the  form  of  flashing  rapids,  between  the 
same  precipitous  and  rocky  banks,  until  it  makes  another  heavy  fall 
of  about  seventy  feet,  but  not  perpendicular.  This  is  known  as  Kan- 
kin's  Falls.  Below  it  is  another  deep  pool  and  still  water  for  some 
distance. 

Along  here  the  canon  narrows,  forming  another  amphitheatre,  and 
the  walls  that  encircle  it  rise  to  a  height  of  two  hundred  feet  fi-om  the 
water.  In  many  places  the  sides  of  the  gorge  are  a  solid  mass  of 
smooth  rock,  without  a  crevice  for  bushes  or  weeds  to  effect  a  lodge- 
ment. At  irregular  intervals  the  tops  of  these  massive  walls  overhang 
the  stream,  so  that  a  stone  dropped  straight  down  would  strike  the 


Billings'  Falls,  "West  Branch  Pleasant  Eivek,  Me. 


U.  OF  ILL  LIB. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


53 


centre  of  the  river.  Occasionally  there  are  clefts  in  the  wall  from 
which  water  of  more  or  less  volume  emerges,  forming  silvery  cascades 
that  fall  a  distance  of  fifty  or  sixty  feet. 

As  you  follow  the  stream  down,  the  walking  varies  considerably. 
Where  there  is  only  moss  and  bushes  it  is  easy  getting  ahead;  but 
sometimes  the  trees  are  so  thick  you  can  scarcely  force  your  way 
through  them.  To  offset  this,  you  find,  once  in  a  while,  a  bare  ledge 
in  your  pathway,  that  overhangs  the  canon.  From  some  of  these 
ledges, you  obtain  a  glimpse  of  the  stream  for  two  hundred  rods  above 
and  below  you,  the  water  shimmering  in  the  sunlight  like  brilliants. 

The  immense  piles  of  slate  that  uprise  from  each  side  of  the  river 
sometimes  appear  in  regular  layers,  as  if  piled  up  by  the  hand  of  man. 
Again  they  are  very  irregular  in  shape  and  appearance,  forming  queer 
joints  and  angles.  These  are  ofttimes  scarred  and  worn  by  the  frost 
and  rain,  and  in  some  places  huge  masses  of  the  rock  have  succumbed 
to  the  wear  and  tear  of  time  and  the  elements,  and  fallen  into  the 
yawning  gulf  below^,  to  fret  and  madden  the  stream  whose  sanctuary 
they  have  invaded.  The  highest  point  from  the  water  to  the  top  of 
the  banks  is  from  three  to  four  hundred  feet. 

The  stream  varies  in  width  from  four  or  five  rods  to  a  few  feet,  and 
through  these  rocky  gates  the  waters  pour  with  relentless  fury,  mak- 
ing a  noise  that  drowns  all  others.  Continuing  on,  we  pass  a  half- 
mile  of  still  water  and  rapids,  that  culminate  in  a  fall  of  fifteen  feet, 
below  which  the  stream  boils  and  foams  like  a  witch's  caldron.  On 
top  of  the  right-hand  bank  in  this  vicinity  are  to  be  found  some  very 
pretty  specimens  of  crystallized  quartz. 

As  we  follow  the  Gulf  down,  it  presents  the  same  characteristics 
the  entire  distance.  An  open-7nouthed  chasm,  with  huge  bowlders  at 
the  bottom,  the  banks  in  some  places  receding,  in  others  overhanging; 
the  continual  roar  of  the  water  follows  you,  sounding,  as  it  ascends 
from  the  cavernous  depths  below,  like  a  funeral  dirge;  in  some  spots 
the  sunshine  enters,  lighting  up  the  dark  recesses  of  the  gorge,  and 
casting  a  silver  gleam  over  the  hurrying  waters,  as  they  rush  on  their 
long  and  circuitous  journey  toward  the  sea. 

Sometimes  a  feeling  of  utter  ruin,  of  chaos,  as  if  the  eternal  hills 
were  crumbling  into  dust,  possesses  you,  and  prompts  you  almost  into 
seeking  safety  in  flight.  At  others,  awe  and  solemn  wonder  hold  you 
spellbound,  and  you  scarcely  dare  to  move  or  breathe.  Perched  upon 
some  jutting  crag,  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  mad  waters  that  mock 
you  with  their  angry  laughter,  you  involuntarily  shrink  back  from  the 


54 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


edge  of  the  precipice,  and  cast  a  frightened  glance  around,  as  if  feel- 
ing the  presence  of  some  undefined,  mysterious  thing,  who,  out  of 
mere  wantonness,  would  hurl  you  over  into  the  boiling  surge. 

One  needs  days,  and  even  weeks,  here  to  get  a  complete  idea  of  the 
awe,  the  grandeur,  the  solemnity,  the  wildness,  the  romance,  and  the 
picturesque  beauty  of  tiie  scenes. 

A  mile  and  a  half  below  the  dam  are  the  Jaws  of  the  Gulf." 
Here  the  rocky  sides  almost  meet,  there  being  only  six  feet  below  and 
twenty  above  between  the  walled  banks.  Several  deer  have  jumped 
the  Gulf  at  this  point,  and  a  rustic  bridge,  that  would  furnish  a  splen- 
did view  in  either  direction,  might  easily  be  thrown  across. 

The  "  Face  in  the  Kock  "  is  near  this  place,  and  shows  one  of  the 
singular  freaks  that  nature  sometimes  takes  in  stamping  the  human 
features  on  a  solid  rock.  Near  here  an  Indian  was  killed,  in  May, 
1882,  in  a  "  jam  "  of  logs. 

A  short  distance  below  here  a  deer  was  found  one  summer  at  the 
bottom  of  the  Gulf,  with  nearly  every  bone  in  his  body  broken.  He 
had  fallen  over  the  cliff  above. 

All  through  the  canon  trees  struggle  for  an  existence  from  the 
bottom  clear  to  the  highest  peak,  sometimes  growing  on  a  little  crag 
that  scarcely  furnishes  a  foothold.  Every  year  the  place  grows  wilder. 
Each  spring,  pieces  of  rock,  worn  away  by  the  continual  dripping  and 
flow  of  the  water,  go  tumbling  into  the  stream  below. 

In  some  places  there  are  fissures  in  the  cliffs,  thirty  feet  deep  and 
from  one  to  three  feet  wide,  suggestive  of  terrible  land-slides.  On 
each  side  of  the  river  there  are  a  number  of  ravines  that  run  back 
from  one  to  five  hundred  feet  from  the  stream.  By  these  one  can 
easily  descend  to  the  bed  of  the  river.  The  water  is  very  high  in 
the  spring,  but  at  any  time  in  the  year  there  is  a  large  amount  at  the 
falls.  There  are  trout  in  the  stream,  and  it  furnishes  good  fishing  in 
the  early  part  of  the  season;  and  slate  enough  along  the  bank  to  run 
a  quarry  from  now  to  the  end  of  time. 

Some  years  ago  logs  were  driven  down  this  stream,  but  they 
jammed  so  badly  that  the  lumbermen  soon  had  enough  of  it,  and  for 
several  wintei's  there  was  no  timber  put  into  this  stream.  In  several 
cases  men  were  lowered  from  the  top  of  the  banks  two  and  three  hun- 
dred feet,  by  a  rope  tied  around  under  their  body,  to  cut  aAvay  logs  in 
a  jam.  The  bare  thought  of  it  fills  one  with  horror.  But  within  a 
few  years  the  narrowest  portions  of  the  stream,  at  the  bottom,  have 
been  widened  by  blasting.    This  has  injured  the  scenery  but  very 


AND   NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS.  55 


little,  while  making  the  work  of  the  river-drivers  much  easier  and 
safer;  and  some  timber  is  now  driven  through  the  Gulf.  The  river  in 
some  parts  is  straight  for  a  few  rods,  but  generally  it  winds  in  easy 
curves,  descending  with  each  curve. 

It  appears  in  some  places  as  if  the  mountain  had  been  split  in  two 
by  some  great  upheaval  of  nature.  And  again  one  might  suppose  that 
this  fearful  canon  had  been  worn  out  of  the  solid  rock  by  the  action 
of  the  tireless  water  which  for  countless  ages  has  poured  over  it. 

About  two  miles  and  a  quarter  from  the  head  of  the  gorge,  the  river 
makes  two  sharp  turns,  one  to  the  west,  the  other  to  the  east,  giving 
the  stream  here  the  shape  of  an  elongated  letter  S.  At  the  first  bend 
of  the  river,  a  prominent  cliff,  called  Lookout  Cliff,  gives  one  the  best 
view  up  the  river  to  be  obtained  anywhere  on  the  stream.  The  river 
has  a  fall  here  of  about  one  hundred  feet  in  several  small  falls.  The 
ledges  that  form  the  Lookout  "  are  wedge-shape,  with  the  sharp  end 
resting  in  the  stream.  They  preserve  this  shape  from  top  to  bottom: 
^'  wonderful and  "  sublime  "  are  but  tame  expressions  for  the  beauty 
of  the  scenery;  you  should  go  up  one  side  of  the  river  and  down  the 
other  to  see  the  Gulf  to  the  best  advantage.  A  good  guide  is  abso- 
lutely necessary,  unless  you  know  something  of  the  country.  June 
or  September  is  the  best  time  to  visit  the  Gulf,  as  the  flies  are  very 
thick  in  the  vicinity  through  July  and  part  of  August.  If  you  would 
get  an  idea  of  it,  visit  it  yourself,  for  no  pen  can  do  it  justice.  There 
is  a  continual  fall  in  the  river  from  the  time  it  leaves  the  dam  until  it 
emerges  from  the  canon,  furnishing  a  charming  succession  of  rapids, 
pools,  cascades,  stretches  of  dead  water,  and  falls,  the  entire  distance. 
After  the  river  makes  the  two  sharp  turns  near  the  foot  of  the  canon, 
the  banks  on  each  side  rapidly  decrease  in  height,  and  there  is  noth- 
ing of  especial  interest  until  you  get  half  a  mile  below,  where  you 
reach  what  are  called  the  Lower  Arches.    Here  there  is  another  fall. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  there  are  no  hotel  accommodations  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  Gulf,  for  such  a  charming  and  romantic 
locality  should  be  visited  by  all  who  can  spare  the  time  and  money 
for  the  trip.  Such  a  show  piece  as  the  Gulf  offers  a  strong  induce- 
ment to  some  enterprising  individual  to  engage  in  a  hotel  speculation, 
which  could  hardly  help  being  remunerative  when  you  take  into  ac- 
count the  excellent  fishing  and  hunting  only  a  short  distance  away,  as 
well  as  the  beautiful  scenery.  From  the  Gulf  across  to  Greenville  is 
only  fifteen  miles,  and,  by  crossing  the  ponds  that  lie  between  in  a  boat, 
one  has  only  six  miles  to  walk. 


CHAPTEE  IV. 


MONSON  AND  VICINITY. -A  PL,EASANT  SUMMER  RE- 
SORT FOR  THE  TOURIST  AND  FISHERMAN. 


ONSON  is  a  charming  town,  and  is  situated  in. 
tlie  northwestern  part  of  Piscataquis  County, 
fourteen  miles  south  of  Moosehead  Lake,  ten 
miles  west  of  Sebec  Lake,  and  six  miles  north  of 
the  Bangor  and  Piscataquis  Railroad.  The 
Monson  (two-foot  narrow  gauge)  Railroad  extends 
from  Monson  Junction  to  the  village,  a  distance  of  six  miles,  and  two 
miles  beyond  to  the  slate  quarries.  The  town  is  over  nine  hundred 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  three-quarters  of  its  area  is  yet 
unbroken  wilderness. 

Monson  is  about  eleven  hours'  ride  from  Boston  by  rail,  and,  by  the 
present  existing  railroad  arrangements,  during  the  summer  season  the 
traveller  can  leave  Boston  at  9.00  a.m.,  and  reach  Monson  at  8.00  p.m.  ; 
or  by  leaving  Boston  on  the  night  Pullman  train  at  7  o'clock,  reach 
Monson  at  11  o'clock  the  next  morning.  From  Portland  the  route  is 
via  Maine  Central,  Bangor  and  Piscataquis,  and  Monson  Railroads. 

Through  the  energy  and  enterprise  of  wealthy  capitalists  from 
Lowell,  Mass.,  to  whom  the  town  owes  nearly  all  of  its  present  pros- 
perity, the  village  is  favored  by  one  of  the  best  hotels  in  the  State,  a 
new  and  counuodious  structure,  eligibly  located  on  high  land,  over- 
looking a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  known  as  Lake  Hebron,  from  which 
the  hotel  takes  its  name.  The  house  is  comfortably  and  handsomely 
furnished,  and  contains  accommodations,  with  the  annex,  for  seventy- 
five  guests.  The  building  is  surrounded  by  broad  verandas  on  the 
ground  floor  and  second  story,  offering  a  fine  chance  for  a  promenade, 
while  the  views  from  the  piazzas  are  pleasant  and  varied.  The 
parlor,  office,  wash-room,  toilet,  dining-room,  kitchen,  pantry,  etc., 
are  on  the  lower  floor,  while  the  two  upper  stories  are  divided  into 
sleeping-rooms,  all  of  which  have  a  pleasant  outlook.  Every  floor  in 
the  house  is  supplied  with  running  water  from  the  Sherman  Hill 

56 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


59 


Springs,  famous  for  their  rare  medicinal  and  healing  qualities.  There 
is  a  large  and  well-appointed  bath-room  on  the  second  floor,  a  luxury 
seldom  found  in  a  country  hotel.  The  dining-room  will  seat  fifty 
people.  The  terms  are  from  $2.00  to  $2.50  per  day;  and  Mr.  W.  S. 
Knight,  who  manages  the  house,  possesses  all  the  qualifications  to 
make  it  a  complete  success.  His  sterling  personal  qualities  and  strict 
attention  to  business  have  made  him  a  popular  landlord,  and  he  is 
always  anxious  to  make  the  stay  of  his  guests  pleasant  and  agreeable. 

A  good  livery  is  connected  with  the  house,  and  teams  can  be  pro- 
cured for  a  drive  at  any  time  at  reasonable  prices. 

There  are  two  trains  daily,  except  Sundays,  each  way  between 
Bangor  and  Monson,  and  a  team  from  the  hotel  meets  each  train 
during  the  season  of  summer  travel.  There  are  several  well-stocked 
stores  in  the  village,  where  tourists  or  sportsmen  can  find  most  of  the 
articles  needed  for  a  camping-out  trip. 

The  Monson  Maine  Slate  Company  are  the  successors  of  the  Lowell 
Company,  and  operate  four  quarries,  — known  as  the  Hebron  Pond,  the 
Kineo,  the  Pine  Tree,  the  Monson  Pond;  and  they  own  two  others, 
which  are  not  operated  at  present.  The  slate  was  first  discovered  in 
1870,  and  the  quarries  have  been  worked  continuously  since  1872. 
This  business  has  now  become  one  of  the  most  important  industries 
of  the  place  and  the  State.  About  three  hundred  men  are  employed 
steadily  at  the  quarries  above  mentioned,  and  the  monthly  pay-roll 
amounts  to  over  eleven  thousand  dollars. 

The  slate  is  quarried  in  huge  blocks  by  the  aid  of  steam-drills  and 
blasting  powder,  and  is  hoisted  out  of  the  pits  by  immense  derricks 
operated  by  steam,  deposited  on  dump-cars,  and  run  on  a  railroad 
track  to  the  buildings  where  it  is  manufactured.  The  large  blocks 
are  separated  into  convenient  size  for  handling  by  steam-augers  and 
hand-wedges,  and  then  the  expert  workmen,  with  chisel  and  mallet, 
split  the  stone  into  thin  sheets,  as  easily  as  a  boy  can  wooden  blocks 
into  kindling  with  a  sharp  hatchet.  The  edges  are  squared  by  a  re- 
volving cutter  turned  by  steam,  and  the  size  of  the  slate  regulated  by 
a  slotted  gauge  on  which  it  rests.  Each  size  of  slate  is  of  an  exact 
thickness.  Twenty-eight  different  sizes  are  made,  the  largest  being 
24  X  16  inches,  and  the  smallest  9x7  inches.  It  is  sold  by  the  square, 
which  is  ten  square  feet,  and  there  are  from  eighty-six  to  six  hundred 
and  eighty-six  pieces  in  a  square.  The  price  at  the  quarries  is  about 
four  dollars  per  square. 

Branches  from  the  Monson  Railroad  penetrate  every  quarry,  and 


60 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


the  slate  is  loaded  on  the  cars  direct  from  the  storehouses,  but  has  to 
be  transhipped  at  Monson  Junction  to  the  cars  of  the  Bangor  and 
Piscataquis  Railroad,  by  which  it  is  distributed  to  the  different  markets. 
Eight  hundred  car-loads  of  slate  are  manufactured  yearly,  besides  many 
other  useful  and  ornamental  articles  requiring  strength,  which  Ave 
have  not  space  to  enumerate. 

Lake  Hebron,  near  the  hotel,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  pic- 
turesque sheets  of  water  in  central  Maine.  It  is  three  miles  long  and 
about  a  mile  wide,  and  is  skirted  by  magnificent  forests  and  mountains. 
Its  waters  abound  with  the  spotted  brook-trout  and  "  lakers,"  the  latter 
being  caught  in  deep  water.  A  small  steamer  plies  upon  the  lake 
during  the  summer  for  the  benefit  of  fishing  and  excursion  parties, 
and  row-boats  and  sail-boats  can  be  hired  at  reasonable  prices. 

Monson  Pond  is  about  the  same  size  of  Lake  Hebron,  although  dif- 
ferently shaped,  and  contains  both  brook  and  lake  trout.  It  is  about 
two  miles  from  the  hotel,  by  a  pleasant  road,  and  boats  can  be  pro- 
cured at  the  pond. 

The  Doughty  Ponds  are  about  three  miles  and  a  half  from  the  Lake 
Hebron  Hotel.  You  can  drive  with  a  team  to  the  Doughty  farmhouse 
on  the  top  of  Doughty  Hill,  the  highest  point  of  land  in  Monson,  from 
which  ten  ponds  can  be  seen.  From  here  a  walk  of  half  a  mile  brings 
you  to  the  first  pond,  a  sylvan  gem  in  the  midst  of  a  dense  forest.  It  • 
is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  covering  about  thirty  acres.  Crossing 
this,  another  short  walk  of  about  an  eighth  of  a  mile  brings  you  to 
the  other  pond,  also  surrounded  by  woods,  and  the  larger  of  the  two. 
The  camp  is  by  the  side  of  Cold  Brook,  which  runs  from  a  large 
spring,  and  empties  into  the  farther  pond.  It  is  a  delightful  spot  for 
a  sportsman's  camp,  —  good  water  within  a  few  feet  of  the  door,  and 
an  abundance  of  firewood  close  at  hand.  The  only  fish  in  these  ponds 
are  beautifully  spotted  trout,  resembling  the  common  brook  trout  in 
outward  appearance,  with  red  meat.  They  weigh  from  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  to  one  and  a  half  pound,  averaging,  perhaps,  three-quarters  of 
a  pound  in  weight.  They  will  rise  to  a  fly,  and  many  handsome  strings 
of  these  trout  from  both  ponds  have  been  taken  in  this  way. 

Besides  the  lake  and  ponds  already  mentioned  there  are  within  the 
town  many  others,  each  well  stocked  with  trout,  distant  from  two  to 
seven  miles  from  the  Lake  Hebron  Hotel,  called,  as  follovv^s:  Spectacle 
East,  Spectacle  West,  Bunker  North,  Bunker  South,  Tibbets,  McLarign 
North,  McLarign  South,  Bell,  Lillie,  Ward,  Strout,  Doe.  Duck,  Good- 
ale,  Eighteen,  Squagliquign,  Jacobs,  Thatcher,  Curtis,  Bog,  and  Juni- 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


63 


per.  The  next  most  important  chain  of  lakes  and  ponds  in  the  vicinity 
of  Monson  is  in  the  adjoining  town  of  Elliottsville. 

Lake  Onaway,  otherwise  known  as  Sliip  Pond,  is  located  in  the 
township  of  Elliottsville,  twelve  miles  from  the  Lake  Hebron  Hotel, 
and  is  the  best  known  and  most  famous  of  any  in  this  entire  region. 
It  is  a  handsome  sheet  of  water,  about  four  miles  long  and  tw^o  wide, 
surrounded  by  the  towering  Boarstone,  Rochelle,  Benson,  Houston, 
Barren,  and  Greenwood  Mountains,  all  within  a  dense  forest,  extend- 
ing many  miles  in  every  direction  farther  than  the  eye  can  reach.  Its 
waters  abound  in  "lakers,"  spotted  brook  trout,  and  land-locked 
salmon.  Other  ponds  in  and  around  the  township  of  Elliottsville, 
which  contains  forty-six  square  miles,  are  Big  Greenwood,  South 
Greenwood,  Bear,  Round,  Long,  South,  Barren  Mountain,  Twin  Ben- 
sons,  Slugundy,  Rochelle,  Summit,  and  Buttermilk. 

An  old  highway,  scraggy,  moss-grown,  and  hoary,  leads  through 
several  miles  of  the  township.  Where  there  was  in  the  days  of  yore  a 
thriving  settlement  are  now  seen  only  a  few  scattering  houses,  its 
melancholy  appearance  suggesting  thoughts  of  a  deserted  village. 

Shirley,  on  the  west,  which  is  a  portion  of  the  immense  wilderness 
reaching  through  to  the  Forks  of  the  Kennebec,  contains  some  forty- 
eight  square  miles.  For  a  distance  of  twenty  miles  in  a  westerly  direc- 
tion, and  to  the  north  as  far  as  the  Canada  line,  this  vast  forest  has 
no  human  habitants  except  the  lumbermen  in  winter  and  the  sports- 
men in  summer. 

Among  these  wilds  in  Shirley,  Moxie,  Square  Town,  and  Square 
Mount  Town,  within  a  radius  of  eighteen  miles  from  the  Lake  Hebron 
Hotel,  are  a  large  number  of  attractive  and  charming  ponds,  whose 
waters  teem  with  the  spotted  brook  trout,  the  most  beautiful  of  fresh- 
water fish.  The  most  inviting  of  these  are  Moxie,  Knight's,  Trout, 
Frying  Pan,  Potter,  Riddle,  Big  Indian,  Little  Indian,  Coffee  House, 
Carter,  Bog,  and  Marble. 

In  Willimantic  Township,  five  miles  distant,  is  Grindstone  Pond, 
one  of  the  best  fishing  places  for  small  trout  in  the  entire  region. 
The  following  ponds  are  also  within  a  few  miles  of  the  hotel:  :N'orth 
Guilford  Pond,  in  Guilford;  Greenlief ;  Foss;  Wheatstone;  Thorn,  and 
Piper  Ponds,  in  and  around  Abbott,  on  the  south.  The  last  named 
is  the  only  one  in  all  of  the  above-mentioned  ponds  that  contains 
pickerel.  In  Piper  Pond,  however,  there  is  an  abundance  of  this,  with 
some,  favorite  fish.  In  Blanchard,  on  the  west,  are  Russell  Mountain, 
Thorn,  and  Mud  Ponds,  besides  several  others. 


64 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


LAKE  ONAWAY, 

before  mentioned,  is  of  an  irregular,  odd,  and  curious  shape,  having 
many  quaint  coves  and  bays,  skirted  and  fringed  witli  a  growth  of 
light  and  graceful  white  birch,  and  dotted  with  picturesque  islands. 
It  is  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  and  unbroken  wilderness,  and  is  surrounded 
by  several  mountains,  some  of  which  rear  their  majestic  heads  more 
than  a  thousand  feet  above  its  crystal  surface,  and  a  succession  of 
rounded,  forest-clad  hills,  huge  and  broken  bluffs,  and  fragmentary 
bowlders  encircle  its  shores.  Its  original  name  is  Onaway.  This 
Information,  and  the  authority  for  this  name,  came  from  the  late 
Lewis  Annance,  who  was  for  many  years  a  well-known  and  excep- 
tionally intelligent  Indian,  who  spent  many  of  his  years  around 
Moosehead  I^ake.  The  more  modern  name  applied  to  this  sheet  of 
water,  **Ship  Pond,"  originated  from  an  island,  on  the  northeast 
side,  in  sight  from  the  carry,  that  once  contained  several  trees  grow- 
ing in  line,  and  looking  from  a  distance  like  the  masts  of  a  vessel. 
The  route  to  the  lake  is  by  team,  nine  miles  over  an  old  but  pretty 
road  leading  through  Elliottsville  to  Wilson  Stream,  furnishing  charm- 
ing views  of  the  distant  mountains  all  the  way.  From  this  point  there 
are  two  ways  of  reaching  the  lake.  The  shortest  is  to  ride  to  the 
shore  of  Greenwood  Pond,  there  embark  in  a  boat  or  canoe,  and  sail 
across  the  pond,  a  distance  of  about  one  mile,  and  then  walk  across 
the  carry,  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  to  your  place  of  destination.  The 
other  route  from  Wilson  Stream  is  to  follow  a  rough,  wild,  and  wind- 
ing road  around  the  west  side  of  Boai'stone  Mountain  to  Long  Pond 
Outlet,  which  empties  into  Lake  Onaway,  and  which  you  reach  from 
this  point  without  any  walk  or  carry.  Your  journey  down  this  lovely 
stream  will  be  pleasant  and  enjoyable. 

You  will  find  at  the  lake  two  camps  where  sportsmen  and  fishermen 
are  well  cared  for.  One  is  kept  by  a  Bangor  boy,  Mr.  E.  H.  Gerrish, 
and  is  located  on  the  north  shore,  in  a  large  cove,  at  a  place  called 
Haynes'  Beach.  The  other  is  run  by  Mr.  Henry  Lane,  and  is  located 
on  the  south  shore.  Each  has  a  good  supply  of  boats  and  canoes  for 
its  patrons.  A  few  weeks  spent  at  this  forest  retreat,  fishing,  gun- 
ning, or  rowing,  will  do  you  good ;  and  every  night  you  can  listen  to 
the  plaintive  notes  of  the  whippoorwill,  the  gruff  hoot  of  the  owl,  or 
the  shrill  cry  of  the  loon.  If  these  odd  sounds  do  not  lull  you  to 
sleep,  they  will,  at  least,  afford  you  food  for  thought  while  awake. 

Four  or  five  miles  from  where  you  first  reach  Wilson  Stream,  you 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


67 


pass  the  high  viaduct  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  which  spans 
the  stream  one  hundred  and  fifteen  feet  above  the  water,  and  looks 
like  a  railroad  on  stilts.  It  stands  on  eight  towers,  each  having  four 
pedestals,  giving  a  bearing  on  each  of  twentj^-five  tons,  the  whole 
bridge  weighing  eight  hundred  tons.  It  has  nine  sixty-foot  spans  of 
lattice,  and  eight  thirty-foot  spans  of  deck  plate. 

The  Indian  name  of  this  lake,  Onaway,  has  a  traditional  history 
handed  down  from  past  generations  of  red  men,  and  runs  as  follows:  — 

Many  years  ago,  before  the  smokes  of  the  pale-faced  settlers  had 
begun  to  rise  in  Northern  Maine,  and  when  the  red  man  inhabited  this 
entire  region  unmolested,  there  was  among  the  Penobscot  Indians  a 
brave  warrior  and  honored  chief  named  Wawliook.  He  was  respected 
by  his  tribe  for  his  valor,  courage,  and  great  wisdom. 

He  had  a  daughter,  —  a  lovely  Indian  maiden,  beloved  by  her  people 
and  by  all  neighboring  tribes  who  knew  her,  —  named  Onaway,  which, 
in  the  Indian  vocabulary,  means  awake.''  When  the  daughter  of 
the  great  chief  had  lived  about  twenty  summers,  the  Chesuncook 
Indians,  from  the  far  North,  became  hostile  to  Wawhook's  tribe,  and 
war  was  waged  between  them. 

To  break  down  this  invincible  and  irrepressible  leader,  to  curb  his 
turbulent  spirit,  and  seek  revenge  for  his  many  daring  deeds,  was  the 
ambition  of  his  enemies;  and,  in  a  council  of  the  hostile  tribe,  it  was 
decided  to  capture  the  beautiful  maiden,  who  was,  besides  the  Great 
Spirit,  the  only  being  that  the  great  Wawhook  ever  worshipped. 
Young,  cunning,  and  brave  warriors  were  selected  to  perform  this 
hazardous  feat.  After  miiny  weary  days  of  travel  and  exposure  on 
the  part  of  her  captors,  Onaway  was  snatched  from  her  father's  wig- 
wam, and,  bound  and  tied,  was  carried  north,  to  be  held  as  a  ransom 
and  means  of  gaining  unfair  terms  of  peace  with  Wawhook,  as  it  was 
well  understood  that  he  would  make  almost  any  sacrifice  to  secure  his 
daughter's  liberty. 

While  travelling  north  with  their  victim,  these  warriors  camped  for 
the  night  on  the  shores  of  this  lake,  near  the  mouth  of  a  stream  now 
called  "Slugundy."  The  maiden's  night  vigils,  while  the  warriors 
slept,  were  attended  by  the  Great  Spirit,  who  came  and  unbound  the 
rude  fetters  which  held  her;  and,  directing  her  footsteps  by  the  light 
from  a  big  torch  which  illuminated  the  heavens,  she  was  enabled  to 
find  her  way  back  to  her  own  tribe,  and  was  thus  miraculously  saved. 

For  many  generations  after,  whenever  any  of  the  Indians  belonging 
to  the  tribe  from  which  these  warriors  came,  tarried  around  this  lake, 


68 


GUIDi;  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE. 


a  pall  of  darkness  shrouded  everything,  and  hideous  and  unearthly- 
war-whoops  and  sounds  were  heard  everywhere,  so  that  it  was  impossi- 
ble for  them  to  repose  in  the  vicinity;  while,  on  the  other  hand,  any 
who  belonged  to  the  maiden's  tribe  could  remain  there  in  peace.  But 
there  would  always  appear  to  them  such  a  wonderful  light  from  the 
Great  Spirit,  casting  such  a  radiance  over  every  object,  that  it  kept 
them  continually  awake.  However  absurd  this  legend  may  seem  to 
the  prosaic  reader  of  to-day,  the  appropriateness  of  the  name  Onaway, 
or  "  awake,"  will  be  fully  realized  by  any  person  who  pays  it  a  visit, 
when,  be  he  ever  so  dull,  he  will  awake  to  the  beauty  and  grandeur  of 
all  around  him. 

Lately  a  modern  tragedy  was  enacted  on  the  shores  of  this  lake  that 
has  given  it  a  wide-spread  notoriety.  Just  around  the  point  seen  in 
the  left  of  our  illustration,  a  sportsman  was  shot  and  killed  by  a  guide 
in  July,  1888.  Although  this  was  one  of  the  most  cold-blooded 
murders  ever  committed  in  the  State  of  Maine,  —  robbery  being  the 
cause, —  the  authorities  exerted  themselves  but  little  if  any  in  the 
matter,  and  the  assassin  is  still  at  large. 

A  mile  from  the  lake  eastward,  an  iron  viaduct  of  the  Canadian 
Pacific  Railway  I'eaches  from  one  hill-top  to  another,  one  hundred 
and  twenty  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  stream  flowing  under  it.  It 
is  a  wonderful  piece  of  work,  being  the  highest  and  longest  upon  the 
road,  and  one  of  the  longest  in  the  country.  There  is  one  span  of  one 
hundred  and  eighty  feet;  one  of  one  hundred  feet,  lattice  girder;  twelve 
spans  of  sixty  feet  each,  lattice  girder;  and  twelve  thirty-foot  spans, 
deck  plate,  the  entire  length  of  the  bridge  being  thirteen  hundred 
and  fifty  feet. 

The  vicinity  of  Lake  Onaway  is  rapidly  becoming  popular,  not  only 
with  the  disciples  of  Izaak  Walton,  but  also  with  those  admirers  of 
nature  who  love  a  quiet  resting-place  afar  from  the  busy  haunts  of 
man. 

We  are  indebted  to  J.  F.  Sprague,  Esq.,  of  Monson  for  part  of  the 
information  contained  in  this  chapter,  and  sportsmen  visiting  Monson 
should  call  upon  Mr.  Sprague,  whom  we  are  quite  sure  they  will  like 
to  meet. 


CHAPTER  V. 
GREENVILLE  AND  ITS  ATTRACTIONS. 


covered  with  a  growth  of  fir  and  spruce,  presenting  from  the  emi- 
nence on  which  the  Eveleth  House  stands  the  appearance  of  a  beauti- 
ful archipelago.  There  are  now  two  distinct  settlements,  that  at  East 
Cove  being  the  oldest.  The  advent  of  the  railroad  gave  birth  to  the 
village  of  West  Cove,  and  it  is  fast  growing.  The  distance  between 
the  two  villages  by  the  travelled  road  is  a  mile  and  a  quarter.  Farm- 
mg,  guiding,  lumbering,  and  trading  form  the  chief  occupations  of 
the  people,  although  quite  a  number  of  the  male  population  work  for 
the  railroad  and  steamboat  companies.  There  is  a  considerable  trade 
carried  on  in  Greenville  the  entire  year  in  furnishing  supplies  to  the 
visiting  sportsmen  in  summer,  and  to  the  lumbermen  in  winter,  many 
of  whom  congregate  here  every  fall  and  spring  on  their  way  to  and 
from  the  numerous  logging  camps  around  and  beyond  the  lake. 

East  Cove  has  two  hotels,  the  largest  of  which,  the  Lake  House, 
has  accommodations  for  about  one  hundred  people.  The  house,  as 
one  will  see  in  our  engraving,  stands  at  the  very  edge  of  the  water; 
and  from  its  piazza  one  can  see  all  that  is  going  on  at  the  low^er  end  of 

69 


70 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


the  lake.  All  of  the  rooms  are  pleasant  and  well  furnished,  and  some 
of  them  are  larger  than  one  usually  finds  in  a  country  hotel.  Mr. 
Charles  H.  Sawyer  is  the  present  proprietor,  and  his  long  and  varied 
experience  in  the  hotel  husiness  has  fitted  him  to  make  the  stay  of  his 
guests  pleasant  and  agreeable.  He  has  always  been  a  popular  land- 
lord, and  a  favorite  with  all  who  have  stopped  with  him.  Rooms  can 
be  secured  in  advance  by  mail  or  telegraph;  and  the  proprietor  will 
furnish  guides,  boats,  canoes,  or  a  steam  launch,  to  all  who  visit  the 
lake  for  fishing,  at  reasonable  prices. 

The  Eveleth  House  is  located  on  high  land,  a  short  distance  from 
the  lake  shore.  It  is  near  the  post-office  and  stores,  and  furnishes 
accommodations  for  about  fifty  people.  It  is  ow^ned  by  John  H. 
Eveleth,  one  of  the  wealthy  men  of  the  town,  and  is  managed  the 
present  season  by  Mr.  E.  A.  Chapman,  who  understands  how  to  run  a 
hotel,  and  who  does  it  most  acceptably. 

Besides  the  hotels,  there  are  a  large  number  of  stores,  shops,  etc., 
that  give  quite  an  air  of  business  to  the  village.  The  largest  of  these 
are  the  establishments  of  John  H.  Eveleth  &  Co.,  D.  T.  Sanders  & 
Son,  and  M.  G.  Shaw  &  Sons.  There  are  at  present  twenty  steamers 
on  the  lake,  and,  although  this  number  seems  large,  yet  their  owners 
manage  to  make  them  pay  in  one  way  and  another.  The  Gov.  Co- 
burn,"  the  Wm.  Parker,"  the  "  Twilight,"  and  the  ''Comet,"  are 
owned  by  the  Gov.  Coburn  Steamboat  Company,  and  are  used  for 
towing  and  the  general  passenger  and  freight  business  of  the  lake. 
The  towing  amounts  annually  to  a  large  sum,  and  pays  better  than 
passenger  and  freight  traffic.  The  "Fairy  of  the  Lake"  and  the 
"  Rebecca"  are  owned  by  John  H.  Eveleth,  Esq.,  who  uses  them  for 
towing  and  the  general  business  of  the  lake.  The  "  Moosehead  "  is 
one  of  the  most  powerful  steamers  on  the  lake,  and  is  ow^ned  by  the 
Moose  River  Log  Driving  Company.  Heretofore  she  has  been  used 
entirely  for  towing,  but  we  understand  that  after  she  gets  through 
towing  this  spring  she  will  be  run  over  a  regular  route  on  the  lake,  but 
between  what  points  has  not  yet  been  decided  on.  The  "  Kineo  "  and 
the  ''  George  A."  are  the  popular  excursion  boats  of  the  Mount  Kineo 
House,  and  are  owmed  and  run  by  the  proprietors  of  the  hotel,  who 
find  plenty  of  work  for  them,  during  navigation,  in  carrying  their 
freight,  and  in  conveying  fishing  parties  and  excursionists  to  different 
parts  of  the  lake.  The  "Ripple,"  a  fine  boat,  is  owned  jointly  by 
Capt.  Samuel  Cole,  one  of  the  oldest  and  best  guides  and  steamboat 
captains  on  the  lake,  and  Charles  H.  Sawyer,  Esq.,  of  the  Lake  House. 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


73 


She  may  be  hired  by  excursion  parties  for  trips  to  any  part  of  the 
lake  for  any  length  desired,  the  price  per  day  depending  on  the  length 
of  the  trip.  The  steamer  "  Louise  "  is  owned  by  Henry  Sawyer,  and 
is  let  to  parties  for  long  or  short  trips.  The  Capens  at  Deer  Island 
run  a  steamboat  of  their  own,  and  there  are  several  private  steam 
launches,  as  well  as  a  steam  scow,  —  a  queer-looking  craft,  used  for 
freighting.  The  guides  are  about  equally  divided  into  Yankees,  Indi- 
ans, and  half-breeds,  and  can  generally  be  engaged  through  the  hotel 
proprietors,  who  know  them  all.  They  are  well  posted  on  all  the 
country  north  and  east  of  Moosehead,  and  can  take  you  in  any  direc- 
tion you  may  wish  to  go. 

West  Cove,  or  Greenville  Junction,  is  the  terminus  of  the  Bangor 
and  Piscataquis  Railroad,  which  connects  with  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway  at  this  point.  Both  roads  have  stations  here,  and  the  tracks 
are  connected  for  an  interchange  of  cars.  The  post-office  here  is  called 
Greenville  Junction,  and  this  part  of  the  town  will  no  doubt  in  future 
bear  that  name.  There  are  about  a  dozen  houses,  one  store,  and  a 
small  hotel.  But  this  embryo  village  is  bound  to  spread  out;  already 
another  and  larger  store  is  talked  of  for  this  summer,  and  it  is  quite 
certain  that  another  hotel  will  be  erected  and  ready  for  business  this 
season.  It  will  be  built  by  the  Moosehead  Lake  Hotel  Company,  will 
be  managed  by  Amos  H.  Walker,  Esq.,  and  will  contain  about  sixty 
rooms.  The  foundation  is  in  at  present  writing,  and  the  site  is  an 
admirable  one,  giving  a  fine  view  up  the  lake,  with  the  Spencer 
Mountains  in  the  background.  The  house  know^n  as  Hotel  West,  with 
the  adjacent  dining-room,  that  now  furnishes  accommodation  to  the 
public,  is  run  by  Mr.  Walker,  w^ho  has  been  long  and  favorably 
known  as  manager  of  the  Eveleth  House  at  Greenville,  and  who  in 
his  new  location  has  already  become  a  favorite  with  the  travelling  pub- 
lic, who  have  given  him  a  liberal  patronage.  This  will  be  a  very  cen- 
tral point  to  locate  in  summer,  as  the  tourist  or  sportsman  will  be  able 
to  make  many  excursions  in  all  directions  by  boat  or  rail.  The  Cana- 
dian Pacific  Railway  runs  northwest  to  the  Outlets  of  Moosehead, 
then  by  all  the  best  ponds  in  the  Moose  River  country,  and  southeast 
by  Wilson  Pond,  Lake  Onaway,  and  many  other  good  fishing-waters. 

Those  who  stop  at  Greenville  or  Greenville  Junction  have  choice 
of  a  variety  of  excursions,  either  by  water  or  land,  which  enables 
them  to  pass  the  time  very  pleasantly.  They  have  on  the  water  a 
choice  of  canoes,  row-boats,  or  sail-boats,  or  can  hire  one  of  the  small 
steamers  kept  on  the  lake  to  let  for  excursion  parties.  Then  there  are 


74 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSBHEAD  LAKE 


the  regular  passenger  steamers  running  over  five  or  six  different  routes. 
On  land  they  can  travel  on  foot,  which  is  sometimes  the  pleasantest 
way  of  seeing  the  country,  hire  a  team,  or  make  excursions  by  train. 

Between  the  East  and  West  Coves  the  round  trip  is  four  miles.  It 
is  an  easy  paddle  in  a  canoe,  and  shows  one  some  pretty  scenery. 

To  Moose  Island  and  back,  a  distance  of  seven  miles,  is  a  nice  excur- 
sion in  a  row-boat,  and  introduces  one  to  some  charming  views.  The 
course  Hes  among  the  little  islands  that  cluster  about  the  mouth  of 
East  Cove,  and  in  full  sight  of  Sandy  Bay  and  the  McFarland  place. 

Squaw  Brooks  are  about  five  miles  from  Greenville  by  water,  and 
furnish  some  excellent  fishing  where  they  enter  the  lake.  North  Squaw 
Brook  is  the  outlet  of  Fitzgerald  Pond,  which  lies  a  mile  back  from 
the  lake  under  the  shadow  of  the  mountain.  A  logging  road  leaves 
the  east  side  of  this  pond  and  comes  out  on  the  lake  at  Johnson's 
Landing,  a  mile  west  of  North  Squaw  Brook.  From  Fitzgerald  Pond 
it  is  a  little  over  a  mile  through  the  woods  to  Burnham  Pond,  whose 
waters  empty  into  the  upper  end  of  Indian  Pond  on  the  Kennebec. 
South  Squaw  Brook  is  the  outlet  of  the  Squaw  Ponds.  A  foot-path 
leads  from  these  ponds,  a  distance  of  two  and  a  half  miles,  to  Green- 
ville Junction.  With  a  sail-boat  and  a  good  breeze  it  is  a  nice  trip  to 
the  Squaw  Brooks. 

Squaw  Mountain,  or  ''Big  Squaw"  as  it  is  sometimes  called  to  dis- 
tinguish it  from  ''Little  Squaw,"  a  lesser  mountain  which  lies  south 
of  it,  is  a  grand  old  peak  that  rises  to  a  height  of  over  three  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea  level,  furnishing  from  its  summit  a  panoramic  view 
for  miles  in  every  direction,  and  well  repays  one  for  the  fatigue  incurred 
in  making  the  ascent.  It  is  usually  ascended  by  visiting  North  Squaw 
Brook,  which  is  navigable  for  a  canoe  for  about  a  mile  from  the  lake. 
Landing  on  the  north  side  of  the  brook,  you  follow  an  old  logging  road 
for  two  miles,  and  then  a  trail  for  the  remainder  of  the  distance.  It 
is  about  six  miles  from  where  you  leave  the  landing  to  the  summit. 
The  ascent  may  be  easily  made  in  about  four  hours,  and  the  return  in 
half  that  time.  It  will  take  an  entire  day  from  the  hotels  to  make 
the  excursion  comfortably. 

Sandy  Bay,  an  excellent  fishing  ground,  is  just  above  the  McFarland 
place,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  lake.  The  distance  from  the  foot  of 
the  lake  there  and  back  is  seven  miles,  and  makes  a  nice  excursion  in 
a  row  or  sail  boat. 

A  trip  to  Beaver  Cove,  seven  miles  from  Greenville,  on  the  east  side 
of  the  lake,  will  enable  one  to  pass  an  enjoyable  day.  Start  early,  and 
take  a  jjicnic  dinner  on  shore. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDEltNESS. 


75 


The  Kennebec  Dam  at  the  East  Outlet  is  one  of  the  greatest  fishing 
resorts  around  Moosehead  Lake,  and  is  twelve  miles  from  the  foot  of 
the  lake  by  water.    One  should  visit  it  by  sail-boat,  steamer,  or  rail. 

/f\  H.  1.  Wilson  has  a  fine  new  hotel  near  the  dam, 


There  is  a  telegraph-office 


and  post-office  in  the  house,  and  the  depot  of  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway  is  but  a  few  rods  distant. 

Deer  Island  is  ten  miles  from  either  village  at  the  foot  of  the  lake, 
and  is  easily  reached  by  sail-boat  or  steamer.  There  is  a  large  farm 
on  it,  owned  by  Aaron  Capen  &  Sons,  who  are  also  proprietors  of  the 


76 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


Deer  Island  House,  near  the  steamboat  wharf,  a  fine  new  hotel  with 
thirty  large  rooms,  spacious  halls,  and  broad  piazzas,  which  offer 
ample  and  satisfactory  accommodations  to  visitors.  The  house  is 
pleasantly  located,  and  commands  some  charming  views.  There  are 
manj  pleasant  walks  on  the  island,  and  good  fishing  near  it.  A  steam- 
yacht  is  kept  by  the  proprietors  of  the  hotel. 

Roach  River  and  Roach  Pond  are  nineteen  miles  from  Greenville 
by  the  travelled  route  in  summer.  First  by  boat  to  Lily  Bay,  twelve 
miles,  and  then  by  a  good  turnpike  road,  seven  miles,  to  the  Roach 
River  House,  owned  by  Morrison  &  Hunting,  who  also  run  the  stage 
line  between  steamer  landing  and  hotel.  The  sportsman  will  find 
good  accommodations  here,  as  the  hotel  has  lately  been  enlarged,  and 
two  neat  cottages  built.  The  establishment  is  well  run  by  Mr.  Davis. 
This  is  a  good  centre  for  fishing  parties,  as  there  is  fine  fishing  at  the 
dam  and  on  the  river  near  the  hotel,  also  at  the  head  of  the  pond, 
about  six  miles  distant.  There  are  also  about  a  dozen  small  ponds, 
within  a  circuit  of  five  or  six  miles  from  the  upper  end  of  Roach 
Pond,  where  small  trout  are  abundant.  It  is  also  a  good  place  for 
hunting  in  the  fall.  Those  wishing  to  stop  at  Lily  Bay  for  fishing  or 
hunting  will  find  a  good  chance  at  the  Lily  Bay  House. 

There  are  a  number  of  pleasant  drives  in  the  vicinity  of  Greenville, 
ill  over  good  roads;  and  teams,  with  or  without  drivers,  can  be  pro- 
cured from  either  of  the  hotels. 

A  ride  to  the  top  of  Indian  Hill,  two  miles  from  Greenville,  about 
m  hour  before  sunset,  will  enable  visitors  to  overlook  the  lake  at  the 
most  pleasing  time  in  the  day;  and  the  beautiful  landscape  spread  out 
before  them,  bathed  in  the  departing  rays  of  sunlight,  will  well  repay 
them  for  the  effort.  The  many  mountains  in  the  vicinity  also  appear 
to  the  best  advantage  at  this  time,  robed  as  they  are  in  violet  and 
purple. 

Whitcomb  Stream  is  a  small  brook,  a  mile  from  the  foot  of  the  lake 
by  the  county  road,  that  furnishes  good  fishing  during  spring  and 
early  summer.    It  is  a  pleasant  walk  to  it. 

Gerrish  Pond,  a  small  piece  of  water,  two  miles  distant  from  Green- 
ville, oifers  good  fishing  in  summer.  It  is  within  easy  walking  or 
riding  distance,  over  a  good  road,  from  which  one  can  catch  occasional 
glimpses  of  the  lake. 

Eagle  Stream  is  two  and  a  half  miles  from  Greenville  by  road.  It 
is  one  of  the  best  trout  brooks  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lower  end  of  the 
lake,  and  large  strings  of  small  trout  are  taken  from  it  each  season. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS.  77 


Flowing  for  the  most  part  through  an  open  meadow,  it  affords  excel- 
lent chances  for  bait-fishing,  and  also  for  casting  a  fly. 

The  Wilson  Ponds,  near  Greenville,  are  a  great  fishing  resort  in 
summer,  and  attract  large  numbers  of  sportsmen  to  their  beautiful 
shores.  In  July  and  August,  when  the  fishing  on  the  lake  is  dull,  one 
can  always  obtain  a  good  string  of  trout  from  either  of  these  ponds. 
The  larger  sheet  of  water,  the  Lower  Wilson,  is  three  miles  distant 
from  the  village,  two  being  over  an  excellent  carriage  road.  The  last 
mile  crosses  a  farm,  then  descends  through  a  pleasant  w^oodland  path 


MOOSEHEAD  LAKE,  FROM  INDIAIT  HILL. 


to  the  lower  pond.  Parties  who  ride  usually  leave  their  team  at  the 
farm,  or  send  it  back  to  their  hotel. 

The  pond  lies  in  a  deep  basin  surrounded  by  high  mountains.  Its 
shores  are  very  irregular,  and  add  to  its  attractive  appearance.  Its 
waters  abound  with  trout,  all  of  which  are  caught  in  deep  water,  with 
bait.  There  are  quite  a  large  number  of  boats  on  the  pond,  that  may 
be  hired  for  from  fifty  to  seventy-five  cents  per  day.  At  the  boat 
landing  is  a  rude  camp,  offering  a  shelter  to  those  who  wish  to  spend 
a  night  at  the  pond. 

In  the  clearing  on  the  back  side  of  the  farm,  on  a  knoll  overlooking 


78 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


the  pond  and  the  hills  beyond,  is  a  pretty  little  cottage  erected  some 
years  ago  by  G.  G.  Grennell,  Esq.,  of  New  York.  He  has  shown 
excellent  taste  and  a  love  of  nature  in  selecting  his  location,  and  the 
attractions  in  the  vicinity  are  sufficient  to  hold  him  captive  here  the 
entire  summer. 

A  sail  of  two  and  a  half  miles  across  the  lower  pond,  and  then  a 
walk  of  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  bring  us  to  the  Upper  Wilson, — 
like  its  sister,  enclosed  by  mountains.  Persons  should  take  two  days 
to  visit  this  pond,  stopping  at  the  Wilson  Pond  Camp  one  night,  if 
they  wish  to  make  an  enjoyable  trip  of  it.  There  are  boats  and 
canoes  on  the  upper  pond,  belonging  to  A.  H.  W^alker,  the  proprietor 
of  the  camp. 

A  visit  to  the  McFarland  place,  a  large  farm  under  excellent  culti- 
vation, gives  one  a  pleasant  ride  over  a  very  good  road  that  furnishes 
fine  views  of  the  lake  for  part  of  the  way.  It  is  three  miles  and  a  half 
distant  from  the  village  of  Greenville,  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake. 
From  the  hill  above  the  house  one  overlooks  the  lake  for  many  miles, 
land  and  water  being  mingled  in  such  confusion  that  one  can  scarcely 
tell  where  the  first  begins  or  the  latter  ends.  There  is  a  pretty  and 
comfortable  private  club-house  on  the  place,  with  accommodations 
for  about  twenty  people,  and  this  is  well  filled  each  summer  by  Mr. 
McFarland' s  friends. 

Wilson  Stream,  a  good  trout  brook,  is  three  miles  from  the  hotels  at 
Greenville.  The  greater  part  of  the  distance  lies  over  a  good  carriage 
road,  the  last  half-mile  through  a  field,  where  one  is  obliged  to  walk. 
A  short  distance  below  the  dam  commences  a  series  of  rapids,  cascades, 
and  falls,  that  terminate  in  one  perpendicular  fall  of  about  fifty  feet, 
known  as  Hell  Gate  Falls.  A  short  distance  above,  the  stream  makes 
a  sharp  angle,  curving  to  the  left,  and,  sliding  over  an  immense  slate- 
ledge,  slippery  with  dark  green  moss,  flows  for  about  forty  feet  in  the 
shape  of  a  cascade ;  beyond  this  it  turns  abruptly  to  the  right,  and, 
without  any  faltering  in  its  onward  rush,  takes  the  final  leap  into  the 
boiling  caldron  beneath.    The  width  of  the  fall  is  about  fifteen  feet. 

The  banks  of  the  stream  for  some  distance  above  and  below  Hell 
Gate  are  thickly  wooded  and  very  precipitous.  In  a  few  places  per- 
pendicular ledges  of  a  respectable  height  overhang  the  water.  The 
romantic  appearance  of  this  place,  its  seclusiveness,  its  delightful 
shade,  its  beautiful  ferns  and  mosses,  the  musical  echo  of  the  restless 
waters,  all  combine  to  make  it  a  favorite  haunt  of  the  pleasure-seeker, 
and  as  a  suitable  spot  for  a  picnic  it  cannot  be  surpassed. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


79 


Cofifee-House  Stream  is  about  six  miles  from  the  hotels,  and  is 
approached  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Wilson,  — part  of  the  distance 
by  team,  the  remainder  on  foot.  It  furnishes  excellent  fishing,  the 
smaller  brook  trout  being  very  plenty  in  its  waters.  A  day  is  needed 
to  make  a  trip  to  either  of  these  brooks. 

The  ride  around  the  Square,  so  called,  gives  one  a  drive  of  six  miles, 
and  presents  fine  scenery  all  the  way.  Leaving  the  hotels  the  route 
lies  over  the  east  road  for  two  miles;  then,  turning  to  the  left  again, 
follows  the  road  about  three  miles.  At  this  point  we  make  another 
turn  to  the  left,  near  the  Gerrish  Pond,  striking  the  home  road,  run- 
ning nearly  parallel  with  the  lake. 

From  Greenville  to  West  Cove,  or  Greenville  Junction,  as  the  village 
there  is  now  called,  is  a  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  quarter  by  the  county 
road.  It  is  a  pleasant  walk  or  ride  over  there,  and  near  the  hotel  one 
obtains  a  glimpse  of  the  lake,  and  a  fine  view  of  the  Spencer  Moun- 
tains. West  Cove  Brook  empties  into  the  lake  here,  and  the  head 
of  the  cove  is  winter-quarters  for  a  number  of  the  fine  steamers  that 
ply  from  point  to  point  during  the  summer. 

The  birch  canoe,  in  spite  of  being  a  trap  for  the  unwary,  is  one  of 
the  most  popular  means  of  conveyance  used  on  Moosehead  Lake,  and 
the  lamented  Theodore  Winthrop  has  paid  the  following  tribute  to 
these  graceful  water  craft :  — 

Moosehead  also  provides  vessels  far  dearer  to  the  heart  of  the 
adventurous  than  anything  driven  by  steam.  Here,  mayhap,  will  an 
untravelled  traveller  make  his  first  acquaintance  with  the  birch-bark 
canoe,  and  learn  to  call  it  by  the  affectionate  diminutive  *  Birch.' 
Earlier  in  life  there  was  no  love  lost  between  him  and  whatever  bore 
that  name.  Even  now,  if  the  untravelled  one's  first  acquaintance  be 
not  distinguished  by  an  unlucky  ducking,  so  much  the  worse.  The 
ducking  must  come.  Caution  must  be  learned  by  catastrophe.  No 
one  can  ever  know  how  unstable  a  thing  is  a  birch  canoe,  unless  he 
has  felt  it  slide  away  from  under  his  misplaced  feet.  Novices  should 
take  nude  practice  in  empty  birches,  lest  they  spill  themselves  and 
the  load  of  full  ones,  —  a  wondrous  easy  thing  to  do. 

^^A  birch  canoe  is  the  right  thing  in  the  right  place.  Maine's 
rivers  are  violently  impulsive  and  spasmodic  in  their  running.  Some- 
times you  have  a  foamy  rapid,  sometimes  a  broad  shoal,  sometimes  a 
barricade  of  bowlders  with  gleams  of  white  water  springing  through 
or  leaping  over  its  rocks.  Your  boat  for  voyaging  here  must  be  stout 
enough  to  buffet  the  rapid,  light  enough  to  skim  the  shallow,  agile 


80 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


enough  to  vault  over  or  lithe  enough  to  skip  through  the  barricade. 
Besides,  sometimes  the  barricade  becomes  a  compact  wall,  —  a  baffler, 
unless  boat  and  boatman  can  circumvent  it, — unless  the  nautical 
carriage  can  itself  be  carried  around  the  obstacle,  can  be  picked  up, 
shouldered,  and  made  off  with. 

^'  A  birch  meets  all  these  demands.  It  lies,  light  as  a  leaf,  on  whirl- 
pooling  surfaces.  A  tip  of  the  paddle  can  turn  it  into  the  eddy  beside 
the  breaker.  A  check  of  the  setting-pole  can  hold  it  steadfast  on  the 
brink  of  wreck.  Where  there  is  water  enough  to  varnish  the  paddles, 
there  it  will  glide.  A  birch  thirty  feet  long,  big  enough  for  a  trio  and 
their  traps,  weighs  only  seventy-five  pounds.  When  the  rapid  passes 
into  a  cataract,  when  the  wall  of  rock  across  the  stream  is  impregna- 
ble in  front,  it  can  be  taken  in  the  flank  by  an  amphibious  birch. 
The  navigator  lifts  his  canoe  out  of  water  and  bonnets  himself  with 
it.  He  wears  it  on  head  and  shoulders  around  the  impassable  spot. 
Below  the  rough  water  he  gets  into  his  elongated  chapeau  and  floats 
away.  Without  such  vessel,  agile,  elastic,  imponderable,  and  transmu- 
table,  Androscoggin,  Kennebec,  and  Penobscot  would  be  no  thorough- 
fares for  human  beings.  Musquash  might  dabble,  chips  might  drift, 
logs  might  turn  somersets  along  their  lonely  current;  but  never  voyager, 
gentle  or  bold,  could  speed  through  brilliant  perils,  gladdening  the 
wilderness  with  shout  and  song. 

*' Maine's  rivers  must  have  birch  canoes;  Maine's  woods,  therefore, 
of  course,  provide  birches.  The  white-birch,  paper-birch,  canoe-birch, 
grows  large  in  moist  spots  near  the  stream  where  it  is  needed.  Seen 
by  the  flicker  of  a  camp-fire  at  night,  they  surround  the  intrusive 
traveller  like  ghosts  of  giant  sentinels.  Once  Indian  tribes,  with 
names  that  ^nobody  can  speak  and  nobody  can  spell,'  roamed  these 
forests.  A  stouter  second  growth  of  humanity  has  ousted  them,  save 
a  few  seedy  ones  who  gad  about  the  land,  and  centre  at  Oldtown,  their 
village  near  Bangor.  These  aborigines  are  the  birch-builders.  They 
detect  by  the  river-side  the  tree  barked  with  material  for  canoes. 
They  strip  it,  and  fashion  an  artistic  vessel  which  civilization  cannot 
better.  Launched  in  the  frail  lightness  of  this,  and  speeding  over 
foamy  waters  between  forest  solitudes,  one  discovers,  as  if  he  were 
the  first  to  know  it,  the  truest  poetry  of  pioneer  life." 

The  prices  of  birch  canoes  run  from  fifteen  to  fifty  dollars,  accord- 
ing to  size  and  style  of  finish.  They  are  manufactured  at  Greenville 
during  the  winter,  and  at  Mount  Kineo  during  the  summer  months, 
and  may  be  obtained  at  either  of  those  places,  as  well  as  at  Oldtown 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


81 


and  Bangor.  For  rough  work,  however,  we  think  a  canvas  canoe  is 
preferable,  as  it  will  last  longer  and  stand  more  abuse,  and  the  differ- 
ence between  them  in  speed  is  very  little.  The  first  cost  of  a  canvas, 
however,  is  more  than  that  of  a  birch. 


CHAPTEE  VL 


UP  THE  LAKE.— FROM  GREENVILLE  TO  MOUNT 
KINEO. 


FTER  procuring  dinner,  and  seeing  that 
our  baggage  is  all  right,  we  embark 
—  '  V .  on  one  of  the  steamers  which 
leave  West  Cove,  Greenville  Junc- 
tion, after  the  arrival  of  each 
passenger  train,  and,  as  the  boat 
leaves  the  wharf,  the  lake  in  all 
its  beauty  stretches  for  miles  be- 
fore us,  dotted  with  islands  of  all 
shapes  and  sizes.  Heading  straight 
up  the  cove,  we  soon  run  out  of  it 
into  the  main  body  of  the  lake, 
near  to,  and  on  the  left  of,  Mile 
Island,  a  small,  rocky  islet,  surmounted  by  a  beacon,  giving  its  loca- 
tion when  under  water  in  the  spring.  A  delightful  panorama  of 
mountain  scenery  unrolls  itself  as  we  proceed.  Squaw  Mountain 
looms  up  grandly  to  the  west,  while  in  the  far  north  one  of  the  Spencer 
Twins,  over  four  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  level,  displays  its  blue 
peak. 

Passing  Ledge  Island  on  the  right,  the  last  of  the  smaller  ones,  two 
miles  distant  from  Greenville,  we  notice  Hosford's  Point  just  ahead 
on  our  left,  strongly  resembling  an  island.  Nearly  opposite  this 
point,  on  the  eastern  shore,  we  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  McFarland 
place,  three  miles  from  Greenville,  the  private  residence  of  a  New 
York  gentleman  of  wealth  and  refinement.  We  look  off  to  the  east 
into  Sandy  Bay,  and  then  notice  Moose  Island,  which  lies  to  the  left 
of  our  course  on  the  western  side  of  the  lake.  It  is  five  miles  from 
Greenville,  has  a  large  farm  upon  it,  and  is  owned  by  John  Cusac, 
who  is  by  turns  guide,  farmer,  and  lumberman.    The  island  is  nearly 

82 


NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


8^5 


two  miles  long,  and  contains  about  four  hundred  acres ;  all  the  land 
except  what  John  has  cleared  up  for  his  farm  being  thickly  wooded. 
We  next  get  a  look  at  Squaw  Bay,  which  lies  off  to  the  left  of  us. 

A  short  distance  farther  on.  Burnt  Jacket  lifts  up  his  sugar-loaf 
head,  behind  Goodrich's  clearing  on  our  right,  while  beyond  we  dis- 
cern the  narrows  leading  to  Lily  Bay.  The  steamers  run  through  the 
narrows  to  Lily  Bay,  when  the  water  is  sufficiently  high.  At  low 
water,  generally  after  the  first  of  September,  they  have  to  go  around 
the  upper  end  of  Sugar  Island,  making  ten  or  fifteen  miles  difference 
in  their  route.  The  lake  at  this  point  attains  considerable  width. 
Still  farther  east  the  Lily  Bay  range  of  mountains  stretch  away,  their 
summits  beautified  by  the  flitting  shadows  of  the  clouds  that  move 
above  them.  The  Lily  Bay  House,  owned  by  M.  D.  Shaw  &  Sons, 
stands  on  the  shore  of  Lily  Bay,  near  the  mouth  of  North  Brook. 

Deer  and  Sugar  Islands  claim  our  attention  next,  the  first  on  our 
left,  and  the  second  on  our  right  hand.  These  are  the  two  largest 
islands  in  the  lake,  and  both  are  thickly  wooded,  and  still  contain 
good  timber. 

Deer  Island  has  about  three  thousand  acres,  and  is  owned  by  Aaron 
Capen.  He  tills  a  large  farm  upon  it,  and  keeps  a  hotel  —  the  Deer 
Island  House  —  where  summer  boarders  are  accommodated.  The 
island  is  about  ten  miles  from  Greenville,  and  offers  a  pleasant  stop- 
ping-place in  summer,  the  steamer  landing  here  when  desired.  A 
small  steamboat  is  also  run  in  connection  with  the  hotel. 

Sugar  Island  is  about  seven  miles  from  Greenville,  and  comprises 
some  five  thousand  acres  of  land  all  in  a  wild  state.  The  island  is 
about  five  miles  long,  and  belongs  to  Shaw  Brothers  of  Greenville, 
who  purchased  it  a  few  years  since  for  seventeen  thousand  dollars. 

Birch  Island  is  a  small  island  lying  to  the  left  of  Sugar  Island,  and 
is  eight  miles  from  Greenville.  It  is  a  pretty  spot,  and  is  one  of  the 
few  smaller  islands  that  has  retained  its  original  growth  beyond  reach 
of  the  rise  of  water  occasioned  by  the  building  of  a  dam  at  the  outlet. 
Passing  out  of  the  narrow  channel  between  Deer  and  Sugar  Islands, 
we  find  the  steamer  in  the  broadest  part  of  the  lake,  and  Mount  Kineo, 
which  has  hitherto  been  concealed  from  our  gaze  by  the  large  wooded 
islands,  bursts  upon  our  view,  and,  from  its  peculiar  shape,  is  immedi- 
ately recognized  by  all  on  board.  The  hotel  stands  upon  a  point  of 
the  peninsula,  a  short  distance  from  the  base  of  this  frowning  pile  of 
rock,  and  has  a  beautiful  and  sightly  location. 

Four  miles  west  of  us  the  Outlet  House  is  just  discernible.  It 


84 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


stands  on  the  lake  shore  near  the  Kennebec  dam,  and  the  "Moose- 
head"  station  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  is  but  a  few  rods  in 
the  rear.  The  steamers  run  in  here  when  desired  to  leave  or  call  for 
passengers.  The  hotel  is  kept  by  Henry  1.  Wilson,  an  old  resident  of 
the  lake,  and  is  near  some  of  the  best  fishing  and  hunting  grounds 
around  the  lake. 

From  the  outlet  across  to  the  eastern  shore  of  Spencer  Bay  is  four- 
teen miles,  —  the  broadest  part  of  the  lake. 

Leaving  Deer  and  Sugar  Islands  behind  us,  we  obtain  a  fine  view 
of  the  twin  peaks  of  the  Spencer  Mountains,  fifteen  miles  or  more 
away.  At  the  base  of  the  most  northerly  is  Spencer  Pond,  noted  for 
its  excellent  fishing  and  duck-shooting.  Its  great  distance  from  both 
Greenville  and  Kineo  makes  it  a  long  trip  to  take,  and  only  the  more 
adventurous  and  those  with  plenty  of  time  at  their  disposal  visit  the 
spot.  Forty  miles  eastward,  the  seamed  and  scarred  side  of  old 
Ktaadn,  the  monarch  of  Maine,  lifts  its  hoary  head  nearly  six  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  sea. 

We  have  now  arrived  at  Hog  Back  and  Sand  Bar  Islands,  which 
are  within  five  miles  of  the  Mount  Kineo  House.  Passing  to  the 
right  of  these,  we  notice  on  the  western  shore  of  the  lake,  Ed.  Master- 
man's  farm,  and,  a  little  way  above  it,  John  Masterman's  place.  Ed. 
is  a  son  of  John,  who  was  a  noted  trapper  and  hunter  in  this  region. 
Sand  Bar  Island  is  an  island  only  in  the  spring  when  the  lake  is  high. 
Then  the  steamer  can  cross  the  bar  between  the  island  and  the  main 
land,  there  being  five  or  six  feet  of  water  over  it.  In  the  fall  the  bar 
is  about  a  foot  out  of  water,  and  Sand  Bar  becomes  a  peninsula  instead 
of  an  island. 

Off  to  the  east  is  Spencer  Bay,  four  miles  long.  Spencer  Brook  and 
Roach  River  empty  into  its  upper  end.  The  latter  stream  is  the  out- 
let of  a  number  of  ponds  of  the  same  name,  all  of  which  furnish  good 
trout-fishing,  and  are  easily  reached  by  land  from  Greenville,  or 
steamer  to  Lily  Bay,  and  thence  by  stage. 

Just  beyond  the  elder  Masterman's  place  is  the  Lamb  farm,  and 
between  this  and  the  West  Outlet  is  Dutton's  clearing. 

Spider  Island  is  a  small  island,  with  three  pines  on  it,  near  Hog 
Back. 

After  passing  Sand  Bar  farm,  we  notice  the  West  Outlet,  the  smaller 
of  the  two.  By  a  strange  freak  of  nature  the  lake  has  two  outlets, 
which  unite  at  Indian  Pond,  several  miles  below  the  lake. 

Mount  Kineo,  the  monarch  of  the  lake,  now  confronts  us,  a  bold  prom- 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


87 


ontory,  whose  precipitous  sides  rise  eight  hundred  feet  above  the 
water,  and  awes  us  with  its  solemn  grandeur. 

A  group  of  islands,  known  as  the  Moody  Islands,  attract  our  notice 
as  we  pass  them  on  our  right.  Sloop  Island,  a  mass  of  rock,  with  a 
dead  pine-tree  upon  it,  lies  in  close  proximity. 

The  lake  has  now  narrowed  considerably,  and,  leaving  the  islands 
behind  us,  we  soon  pass  the  Gull  Rocks  on  our  right,  and  enter  the 
little  cove,  and  run  alongside  the  w^harf,  but  a  few  rods  from  the 
hotel.  Here  our  baggage  is  taken  to  the  house  by  the  Kineo  House 
Express,"  and  we  walk  up  to  the  house  and  enter  its  hospitable  pre- 
cincts, where  we  are  cordially  greeted  by  the  polite  and  attentive  host. 

At  Mount  Kineo  you  do  not  enter  the  conventional  country  hotel, 
but  a  first-class  house  in  every  respect,  that  is  second  to  none  in  the 
State.  It  accommodates  five  hundred  guests,  and  is  under  the  man- 
agement of  Mr.  O.  A.  Dennen,  who  devotes  all  his  time  to  it,  and  with 
the  happiest  results,  for  everybody  wiio  has  stopped  here  has  always 
a  good  word  to  say  for  the  hotel,  and  its  jolly,  good-natured  manager. 
Some  men  are  born  with  a  peculiar  genius  for  filling  certain  positions 
in  life.  Dennen  found  his  vocation  in  hotel-keeping,  and  at  Mount 
Kineo  is  the  right  man  in  the  right  place.  The  demands  upon  his 
time  and  patience,  during  the  busy  season,  would  frighten  an  ordinary 
man.  But  through  all  the  hurry  and  rush  and  bustle  incidental  to 
taking  care  of  five  or  six  hundred  people  away  from  home  (many  of 
the  camping-out  parties  in  the  vicinity  take  their  meals  at  the  hotel), 
with  innumerable  wants  and  fancies,  and  with  appetites  like  sharks, 
he  preserves  his  smiling  demeanor,  and  has  a  pleasant  word  for  all. 
An  excellent  table  and  pleasant  rooms  are  two  of  the  leading  features 
at  the  Mount  Kineo  House.  The  dining-room  will  seat  four  hundred 
people  without  crowding. 

The  stains  of  travel  removed  from  our  person,  we  enter  the  pleasant 
dining-room,  where  the  cravings  of  hunger  soon  fade  away  before  the 
well-filled  tables,  and  having  partaken  of  both  an  abundant  and  satis- 
factory meal,  we  take  a  stroll  about  the  hotel,  scan  the  guests,  enjoy 
the  sunset  and  scenery  while  the  light  lasts,  and  finally  retire  to  a 
pleasant  room  and  comfortable  bed,  and  secure  a  good  night's  rest. 

One  who  has  visited  Mount  Kineo  says,  — 

*^The  great  question  on  the  morning  after  arrival  is  what  to  do. 
People  have  heard  of  Moosehead  as  a  watering-place,  and  have  come 
in  order  to  be  able  to  say  that  they  have  exhausted  the  pleasures  of 
the  lake.   They  don't  fish  or  shoot.   They  can  play  billiards  anywhere. 


88 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


and  they  pace  up  and  down  the  piazzas  after  breakfast,  anxiously 
studying  the  possibiUties  of  enjoyment.  The  attempts  of  the  average 
American  at  personal  pleasure  have  often  been  dwelt  upon.  He 
makes  hard  work  of  it,  and  returns  to  his  routine  intensely  satisfied 
with  what  God  has  given  him.  Here  the  variety  is  limited.  There  is 
no  stable.  You  can  walk,  you  can  run,  you  can  row,  you  can  fish, 
you  can  climb  the  mountain,  you  can  lie  dow^n  and  go  to  sleep,  you 
can  take  a  steamer  and  ride  up  and  down  the  lake;  but  your  real 
pleasure  must  come  from  yourself.  Thus  the  prospect  is  not  bright 
to  the  man  or  woman  who  has  come  to  be  entertained;  you  just  have 
to  take  care  of  yourself,  and  make  the  best  of  it.  At  such  a  place 
women  are  like  a  flock  of  sheep,  —  one  does  what  the  others  do,  — 
and  unattached  w^omen  are  in  a  miserable  plight.  The  lone  female 
is  here  lonely  indeed.  She  can't  fish,  because  it  is  not  the  respectable 
thing  to  do.  Being  paddled  about  in  a  canoe  by  a  guide  hasn't  any 
romance,  and  the  same  may  be  said  of  mountain-climbing  or  anything 
else;  but  when  young  men  bring  their  sisters,  husbands  their  wives, 
and  papas  their  daughters,  it  is  a  different  thing,  and  the  parties 
which  are  made  up  for  a  day's  excursion  in  canoes  to  different  points 
on  the  lake  are  charming  and  delightful.  Bright  women  are  interest- 
ing anywhere;  and  when  people  are  thrown  so  much  upon  their  own 
resources  for  enjoyment  as  they  are  here,  their  presence  in  these 
rambles  into  the  forest,  or  in  the  recounting  of  the  day's  adventures 
at  the  hotel  in  the  evening,  makes  the  hours  pass  merrily  by. 

The  guests  at  Mount  Kineo  are  generally  agreeable  and  well- 
educated  people,  those  whom  it  is  a  pleasure  to  know;  and  when  you 
have  staid  long  enough  to  get  acquainted,  nothing  can  be  more  enter- 
taining than  the  social  enjoyments  which  mingle  with  the  out-door 
sports.  Your  fisherman  may  be  silent  all  day  while  casting  his  fly, 
but  not  so  when  he  has  laid  his  day's  sport  triumphantly  upon  the 
piazza,  the  envy  of  unlucky  fishermen,  and  eaten  his  supper.  The 
walks  in  the  twilight  upon  the  piazzas,  the  groups  of  friends  clustered 
here  and  there,  the  peals  of  laughter  from  the  adjoining  rooms,  the 
universal  stir  and  movement  of  the  place,  the  free  intercourse  of  the 
guides  with  the  sportsmen,  the  admitted  privilege  of  anybody  speak- 
ing to  anybody  if  he  chooses  to,  the  chattering  at  every  available 
point,  make  a  joyous  life  whose  like  can  hardly  elsewhere  be  found. 
It  looked  dismal  at  first  to  interest  one's  self  in  this  lonely  spot  of  the 
creation,  with  mountains  and  forests  as  your  companions;  but  each 
day  it  is  less  so.    The  place  grows  upon  you;  the  common  feeling  is, 


CEDAR  BEACH,  NORTH  OF  MOUNT  KINEO. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


91 


'  It  is  unlike  any  place  I've  been  in  before.'  You  eat  more  and  more 
heartily  as  the  days  go  on,  and  grow  healthier  and  jollier;  and  the 
great  world  goes  on  without  you,  and  you  don't  care  if  it  does.  It  is 
impossible  to  bring  your  cares  up  here  into  the  wilderness.  Old  men 
find  that  they  can  be  young  again,  and  young  men  have  the  spice  and 
fun  of  recreation  without  dissipation.  And  so  it  happens  that  the 
people  who  have  the  capacity  of  enjoying  themselves  in  close  inter- 
course with  nature  come  to  Moosehead  again  and  again,  and  those 
who  have  to  be  entertained  come  but  once.  The  company  is  choice 
and  of  the  best.  In  fact,  the  persons  who  love  the  woods,  who  are 
patient  to  fish  and  hunt,  who  feel  that  they  are  in  their  element  when 
they  are  out-of-doors,  who  take  to  the  woods  as  ducks  take  to  water, 
are  generally  delightful  company.  They  have  something  in  reserve 
to  talk  about;  you  can't  read  them  through  like  a  newspaper  at  a  sit- 
ting; they  come  direct  from  the  original  stock  of  mankind.  It  would 
have  been  to  build  a  fool's  castle  to  erect  a  hotel  in  the  centre  of 
Moosehead  Lake  for  any  other  class  of  people. 

There  is  a  great  difference  in  sportsmen.  Your  city-bred  man 
comes  with  any  number  of  flies,  with  patent  rod,  with  all  the  latest 
improvements.  He  dresses  in  corduroy  and  flannel,  twines  his  extra 
flies  around  his  hat-band,  and  tucks  his  trousers  into  his  huge  boot- 
legs with  the  significant  air  of  knowing  what  he  is  about.  Quite  an- 
other man  is  the  genuine  fisherman,  whether  from  the  city  or  living 
at  the  lake.  He  indulges  in  no  superfluities,  don't  talk,  goes  straight 
for  game.  He  has  the  best  guides,  the  best  canoes,  the  best  fishing- 
ground.  Generous  as  he  may  be  in  all  things  else,  he  is  always  selfish 
in  fishing.  He  cannot  endure  a  rival.  Most  of  the  guides  understand 
all  that  can  be  known  about  fishing.  It  is  one  of  the  strong  points  in 
their  profession.  They  invest  but  little  in  novelties.  They  are  not 
confined  to  the  fly.  A  stick,  a  hook,  a  worm,  make  their  equipment, 
and  you  can  always  count  on  their  success.  Many  a  minister,  apostolic 
with  his  rod  if  not  in  his  commission,  and  many  a  lawyer,  have  the 
same  tact  in  catching  trout.  They  know  how  to  do  it.  They  can  no 
more  impart  the  skill  to  others  than  you  can  make  the  divining-rod 
work  with  unfitting  hands.  The  birch  skiffs  shoot  out  from  the  Kineo 
pier  at  9.00  a.m.  or  earlier,  often  wives  and  daughters  accompanying 
the  fishermen,  and  go  to  the  famous  fishing-pools,  returning  at  night 
with  the  brilliantly  spotted  game;  which  is  served  for  breakfast  the 
next  morning.  The  guides  have  wonderful  skill  in  handling  these 
birches  in  quick  water  and  amidst  heavy  seas.    They  are  Yankees, 


92 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


Indians,  and  half-breeds,  intelligent,  thoroughly  wide-awake  and  in- 
teresting in  all  that  relates  to  backwoods  life,  and  capable  of  story- 
telling to  any  extent.  The  'Kineo'  takes  parties  to  all  points  on  the 
lake  for  fishing  or  pleasure,  —  to  the  Outlet,  to  Lily  Bay,  to  the 
Socatean  Stream,  to  the  Korth-east  or  North-west  Carry,  to  Spencer 
Stream,  and  to  the  Korth  Bay,  the  east  side  of  Kineo  Cliff.  Guides 
and  fishermen  rapidly  assimilate  in  appearance  as  the  days  go  on,  till 
you  can  hardly  tell  the  bronzed  faces  one  from  the  other,  and  are 
forced  to  confess  the  truth  of  the  saying  that  dress  makes  the  man, 
certainly  makes  the  distinction  which  we  too  often  ascribe  to  birth 
and  fortune." 


CHAPTER  VIL 


KINEO,  ITS  LEGEND,  HOTEL,  SIGHTS,  FISHING,  ETC. 

OUNT  KINEO  itself  is  tlie  chief  cen- 
tre of  attraction  at  Moosehead  Lake, 
and  will  doubtless  always  remain  so. 
It  is  composed  almost  entirely  of 
hornblende,   presenting   the  largest 
mass  of  that  material  known  to  geol- 
ogists, and  is  acknowledged  by  all  who 
t  to  be  a  great  natural  curiosity.    It  is 
doubtless  rich  in  legendary  romance;  could  one  only 
unearth  its  history  in  bygone  times,  when  the  red  man  was  the  king 
of  the  forest  and  proud  possessor  of  this  vast  domain. 

Several  years  ago  the  following  legend  appeared  in  print,  and  we 
give  it  for  the  pleasure  of  our  readers,  although  we  have  been  unable 
to  learn  its  authorship. 

THE  LEGEND  OF  MOUNT  KINEO. 

As  one  sails  over  the  calm  bosom  of  Moosehead  Lake,  and  casts  a 
glance  towards  Mount  Kineo,  it  awakens  a  desire  to  gather  what  there 
is  of  legendary  lore  connected  with  this  w^onderf ul  spot;  and  when 
one  has  climbed  to  the  summit  of  this  steep  bluff,  and  gazes  over  the 
enchanting  scenery  before  him,  diversified  by  mountain,  lake  and 
stream,  the  desire  is  heightened  many  fold,  —  a  desire  to  know  some- 
thing of  the  beings  who  in  days  gone  by  had  chased  the  moose  and 
deer  over  these  mountains  and  through  these  forests,  who  had  paddled 
over  these  waters,  and  caught  from  them  their  supply  of  fish.  Feeling 
thus,  we  gathered,  from  one  and  another,  the  main  facts  connected 
with  the  old  Indian  tale  known  as  the  legend  of  Kineo. 

Some  two  centuries  since,  when  all  the  north  of  Maine  was  one 
great  forest,  and  before  the  "pale  face"  had  hardly  thought  of  explor- 
ing it,  there  belonged  to  the  tribe  of  Indians  inhabiting  this  region  an. 


94 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


old  chief  named  Mackae.  Keserved,  morose,  and  repulsive,  he  ab- 
stained from  mingling  more  than  was  necessary  with  other  members 
of  the  tribes,  and  seldom  engaged  in  any  of  their  many  expeditions 
except  when  matters  of  a  decidedly  hostile  nature  required  it.  He 
had  taken  to  wife  a  squaw  of  marked  beauty,  and  one  whose  nature 
was  the  very  opposite  of  his  own.  While  Maquaso,  the  wife,  cheer- 
fully cooked  his  fish  and  game,  and  performed  those  many  menial 
duties  which  devolved  upon  the  wife  of  a  chief,  he  sat  upon  a  pile  of 
skins  in  his  wigwam's  corner  without  even  a  smile  brightening  his 
countenance. 

Kinneho,  their  only  son,  was  the  centre  of  attraction  for  Maquaso. 
From  the  time  of  his  birth  she  had  watched  over  him  with  that 
instinctive  affection  common  to  the  women  of  her  race.  With  her 
own  hands  she  had  taught  him  the  use  of  the  bow  and  arrow,  and 
had  prepared  him  for  the  chase  and  the  war-path.  As  the  years 
passed,  she  saw  her  labors  rewarded  in  this  direction;  for  among  all 
the  braves  of  the  tribe  there  was  none  swifter  to  lead  in  the  chase, 
none  more  daring  in  battle,  or  more  certain  of  achieving  success  over 
the  savage  foe.  Among  the  warriors  he  was  the  leader,  and  their 
courage  was  wont  to  fail  them  in  battle  if  Kinneho  were  not  there. 
His  foes  feared  him,  and  they  dared  not  make  expeditions  in  small 
cou:ipanies  lest  Kinneho  should  surprise  and  slay  them  in  a  hand-to- 
hand  contest. 

But  a  feeling  of  terrible  sadness  took  possession  of  the  proud  spirit 
of  Maquaso,  when,  in  watching  her  idol,  she  found  that  he  had  in- 
herited much  of  the  sullen  nature  of  his  father. 

While  at  home  from  the  chase  and  the  war-path  he  spent  his  time 
in  solitary  wanderings  about  the  little  Indian  village,  caring  little  for 
the  scenes  around  him,  and  doing  nothing  in  return  for  those  favors 
which  his  mother  was  constantly  bestowing  upon  him.  This  produced 
a  feeling  of  alienation  between  mother  and  son. 

The  wigwam  became  a  prison  to  Maquaso,  life  a  burden.  She  was 
too  proud  to  own  her  grief,  but  it  was  nevertheless  apparent  to  all 
observers.  One  morning  they  found  by  the  side  of  a  smouldering  fire 
a  few  articles  of  clothing  which  they  knew  to  have  been  the  posses- 
sions of  Maquaso,  but  she  herself  was  nowhere  to  be  found. 

Strong  suspicion  rested  upon  Kinneho.  His  weeping  and  lamenta- 
tions were  in  vain,  and  the  earnestness  with  which  he  prosecuted  the 
search  was  not  sufficient  to  prove  to  the  tribe  that  Kinneho  had  not 
been  the  murderer  of  his  mother. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


96 


About  this  time  hostilities  broke  out  between  the  Indians  along  the 
Piscataquis  and  those  dwelling  on  the  Androscoggin.  A  council  of 
the  leading  men  of  the  tribe  was  called.  Kinneho  met  with  them. 
Hitherto  he  had  been  the  foremost  to  advise,  and  his  advice  had  been 
most  frequently  acted  upon.  J^ow  he  was  held  in  such  disgrace  that 
he  was  not  permitted  to  speak,  nor  was  he  permitted  to  become  one 
of  the  war-party  which  was  then  organized.  He  left  the  council,  made 
a  few  hasty  preparations,  took  his  arrows  and  tomahawk,  and  silently 
stalked  forth  into  the  forest. 

Hardly  two  moons  had  passed  before  the  two  tribes  met  in  active 
warfare.  The  tribe  of  which  Kinneho  was  a  member  sorely  missed 
his  able  counsel,  his  wonderful  daring,  his  bloody  action.  In  the 
enemy's  country  it  had  suffered  many  surprises,  and  many  times  had 
been  sadly  repulsed.  In  a  bloody  encounter,  which  was  likely  to 
determine  the  result  of  the  war,  Kinnelio's  friends  were  greatly  sur- 
prised to  see  him  come  suddenly  upon  the  field  of  battle.  With  an  un- 
earthly yell  he  dashed  upon  the  foe ;  one  after  another  they  fell  before 
him,  and  shortly  the  enemy  were  driven  from  the  field.  Cheer  after 
cheer  for  Kinneho  rent  the  air.  Gladly  would  they  have  borne  him 
from  the  field  in  triumph,  but  he,  without  speaking  a  word  to  his  old 
companions,  silently  left  the  field,  and  betook  himself  to  the  forest. 

Nothing  further  was  heard  of  Kinneho  until  it  became  noised  abroad 
among  the  Piscataquis  Indians  that  he  had  erected  his  wigwam  on 
the  summit  of  the  mountain  in  Moosehead  Lake,  which  still  bears  his 
name.  Of  savage  disposition,  and  of  mighty  power  in  a  hand-to-hand 
contest,  the  Indians  gave  him  a  wide  berth.  As  they  looked  towards 
the  ragged  crag  by  night  and  saw  the  blaze  of  his  camp-fire,  or  saw 
the  smoke  wreathing  upwards  by  day,  a  sort  of  mystic  awe  took  posses- 
sion of  their  minds,  and  they  shrank  from  nearing  his  solitary  abode. 
Superstitious  traditions  still  lingered  in  the  minds  of  the  tribe  in  regard 
to  the  mountain,  and  so  Kinneho  was  left  to  himself  as  if  he  had  been 
superhuman. 

To  the  south  of  Kineo  is  Squaw  Mountain.  While  Kinneho  had 
looked  towards  it  by  night,  his  eagle  eye  had  discovered  upon  its  side 
a  bright  light.  Evening  after  evening  it  appeared,  and  burned  until 
far  into  the  night.  Finally  he  decided  to  make  an  excursion  in  that 
direction,  and  ascertain  if  possible  whose  fire  it  might  be. 

Over  the  lake  and  through  the  forest  he  journeyed,  then  up  the  side 
of  the  mountain,  following  in  the  direction  of  the  light.  At  last  he 
came  upon  a  rude  lodge,  built  of  bark  and  skins. 


96 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


Kiimeho's  heart  beat  wildly  within  him,  as,  bending  over  the  fire^ 
he  saw  the  wasted  form  of  his  mother,  Maquaso.  Though  he  had 
known  her  in  the  days  of  her  beauty,  he  did  not  fail  to  recognize  in 
the  bent  form  and  distorted  features  his  long-lost  mother.  He  rushed 
forward  and  embraced  her  in  his  arms.  She,  overcome  by  his  sudden 
appearance,  would  have  sunk  to  the  ground  only  for  the  strong  arms 
which  supported  her.  He  hastily  carried  her  to  the  lodge,  bathed  her 
face  with  water  from  a  stream  near  by,  and  forced  some  nourishment 
between  her  lips;  but  all  to  no  purpose.  Her  eyes  had  looked  once 
more  upon  her  son  only  to  close  in  death. 

On  the  side  of  Squaw  Mountain  he  fashioned  a  rude  grave;  heaped 
together  a  pile  of  stones  to  mark  her  resting-place.  Each  new  moon 
he  came  to  visit  the  lonely  mound,  and  sprinkle  it  with  tears. 

In  summer  time  a  delicate  white  flower  blooms  in  this  forest,  known 
as  the  Indian  Pipe.  The  Indians  affirm  that  this  flower  sprang  from 
the  tears  of  Kinneho.  Wherever  his  tears  fell  this  flower  is  said  to- 
have  appeared. 

During  many  moons  the  camp-fire  of  Kinneho  could  be  seen  on  the 
dark  bluff.  The  Indians  still  supers titiously  shunned  the  spot.  Some- 
times they  crept  through  the  forest  to  the  shore,  which  is  now  called 
Pebbly  Beach;  but  when  they  looked  upwards  against  the  perpendicu- 
lar bank  of  solid  rock  they  imagined  that  the  form  of  the  Great  Spirit 
was  hovering  over  them.  And  they  thought  they  heard  his  voice 
pouring  down  imprecations  upon  their  heads.  Sometimes,  they  say, 
Kinneho  made  long  journeys  through  the  forest  to  Mount  Ktaadn,. 
whose  snowy  sides  were  plainly  visible  from  his  own  mountain. 
During  these  times  they  missed  his  camp-fire  by  night,  and  his  smoke 
by  day;  and  then  they  would  summon  almost  the  requisite  courage  to 
visit  the  spot,  when  of  a  sudden  it  would  again  appear. 

But  at  last  the  fire  died  out,  never  to  be  rekindled  by  the  hand  of 
Kinneho.  In  vain  did  they  watch  for  its  re-appearance.  Stealthily 
they  crept  around  to  the  northern  side  of  the  mountain,  and  up  its 
sides,  but  they  found  not  Kinneho.  By  the  side  of  the  spring  which 
still  bubbles  up  through  the  rocks  they  found  a  pair  of  moccasons, 
beside  this  a  tomahawk  and  a  few  trinkets.  Farther  on  they  found 
the  traces  of  his  fire,  and  the  rocks  charred  and  blackened,  which  even 
yet  have  not  returned  to  their  original  color. 

The  Indians  ever  after  believed  that  the  mountain  had  opened  and 
swallowed  the  form  of  Kinneho,  and  that  he  was  doomed  to  remain 
in  its  bowels  to  the  end  of  time.  And  so  they  called  the  mountain 
Kinneho,  which  in  our  day  has  been  shortened  to  Kineo. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDEKNIiSS. 


99 


Such  is  the  legend  of  Kineo.  If  any  of  our  readers  should  visit  the 
place  (and  we  advise  them  to  do  so,  if  they  wish  to  behold  some  of 
Maine's  grandest  scenery)  they  will  find  the  tradition  to  be  mainly  as 
we  have  printed  it. 

The  estate  comprises  some  twelve  hundred  acres  around  the  moun- 
tain, and  all  the  small  islands  in  the  lake  belong  to  it.  It  was  bought 
by  Mr.  Winthrop  W.  Chenery,  of  Boston,  the  proprietor  of  the  High- 
land Stock  Farm,  of  Belmont,  some  twenty  years  ago;  and  his  son, 
Mr.  W.  L.  Chenery,  of  Belmont,  Mass.,  still  retains  a  large  interest  in 
the  property.  For  several  years  he  came  here  hunting  and  fishing, 
stopping  at  a  small  house,  which  soon  grew  by  rapid  additions  into 
quite  a  fair-sized  hotel.  About  ten  years  ago  Mr.  O.  A.  Dennen,  the 
present  superintendent,  took  charge  of  the  property  and  the  house, 
and  is  now  one  of  the  owners.  About  six  weeks  after  Mr.  Dennen 
went  to  Kineo  the  hotel  burned  down,  and  between  that  time  and  1870, 
when  a  new  house  was  commenced,  the  accommodations  were  rather 
scant.  The  hotel  was  completed  in  1874,  and,  although  possessing 
double  the  room  of  the  old  one,  proved  inadequate  to  the  increased 
number  of  guests  that  every  year  sought  this  charming  place.  The 
superintendent,  finding  that  he  must  have  more  room,  commenced  the 
building  of  an  annex  in  1876,  which  was  finished  the  next  year. 
Again  in  1881  sixty  new  rooms  were  added,  making  the  hotel  more 
complete  than  ever  before,  and  better  able  to  take  care  of  the  increas- 
ing number  of  people  who  came  each  year. 

In  the  fall  of  1882,  however,  the  Mount  Kineo  House  was  again 
destroyed  by  fire,  and  not  only  the  hotel,  but  nearly  every  one  of  the 
out-buildings,  the  fire  making  almost  a  complete  sweep.  Undaunted 
by  this  great  misfortune,  the  owners  put  their  shoulders  to  the  wheel 
once  more,  and,  in  the  spring  of  1883,  rebuilt  the  annex,  the  store, 
and  several  other  buildings,  and  a  limited  number  of  people  were  cared 
for  during  the  summer.  In  the  fall  arrangements  were  perfected  to 
again  rebuild  the  Mount  Kineo  House.  A  saw-mill  was  bought  and 
erected  near  the  premises,  a  large  force  of  mechanics  was  set  to  work, 
and  through  the  winter  of  1883  and  the  spring  of  1884  work  was  un- 
ceasingly pushed  until  the  completion  of  the  new  hotel  in  July,  which 
is  not  surpassed  by  any  summer-resort  hotel  in  New  England.  It  con- 
tains about  two  hundred  rooms,  the  dining-room  being  a  noble  apart- 
ment, 51  x  110  feet,  without  pillar  or  post  to  mar  its  grand  dimensions, 
and  is  capable  of  comfortably  seating  four  hundred  people.  The 
house  is  supplied  with  bath-rooms,  electric  bells,  and  all  modern  con- 


100 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


veiiiences,  is  heated  by  steam,  and  lighted  throughout  with  gas. 
The  rooms  are  large,  light,  and  airy,  reached  by  broad  stairways  or 
steam  elevator,  and  from  the  sightly  windows  command  beautiful 
pictures  of  lake  and  forest,  valley  and  mountain.  The  parlor,  music, 
reception,  play,  reading  and  dining  rooms,  hotel,  telegraph  and  post 
offices  are  on  the  lower  floor.  The  music-room  is  often  used  for  hops, 
dancing  being  a  favorite  amusement  of  the  guests  in  the  evening, 
music  being  furnished  every  night  during  the  season.  A  piazza  fifteen 
feet  wide  extends  around  the  main  house.  The  proprietors  of  the 
Mount  Kineo  House  have  built  several  bath-houses  on  the  beach  near 
the  hotel,  —  an  improvement  that  was  highly  appreciated  by  the 
guests,  especially  the  women  and  cliildren. 

Isolated  as  the  Mount  Kineo  House  is  from  the  civilized  world,  the 
proprietor  is  compelled  to  run  an  extensive  establishment,  and  keep 
on  hand  a  heavy  stock  of  supplies;  hence  the  store,  blacksmith-shop, 
and  farm  buildings,  —  unusual  adjuncts  to  a  hotel.  A  yoke  of  oxen, 
several  horses,  a  dozen  cows,  a  large  flock  of  sheep,  numerous  pigs 
and  poultry,  supply  the  motive-power  for  farm-work,  and  furnish  all 
the  fresh  meat  and  chickens  for  table  use.  A  large  vegetable  garden 
furnishes  the  freshest  and  nicest  of  vegetables  for  the  table  in  sum- 
mer, and  a  sufficient  crop  of  potatoes  is  raised  to  last  an  entire 
year.  Besides  the  cultivated  land  around  the  house,  a  farm  of  forty 
acres  has  been  cleared  upon  the  northern  end  of  the  estate,  with  house 
and  barn  of  its  own,  and  large  crops  of  various  kinds  are  raised  there. 
All  the  preserves  and  pickles  used  in  the  hotel  are  grown  and  put  up 
upon  the  place.  A  small  fleet  of  birch  canoes  and  row-boats  belong 
to  the  estate,  and  are  let  to  summer  visitors.  The  charge  for  canoes 
is  twenty-five  cents  per  day,  and  for  row-boats  from  twenty-five  to 
seventy-five  cents  per  day,  or  three  dollars  by  the  week. 

The  new  and  elegant  steam  yacht  Kineo"  and  the  trim  little 
steamer  George  A.  "  belong  to  the  house,  and  are  used  by  the  guests 
for  fishing  or  excursion  parties. 

The  house  stands  on  the  end  of  the  peninsula,  and  faces  south,  over- 
looking a  large  portion  of  the  lake.  The  grounds  are  kept  in  good 
order,  showing  marks  of  excellent  judgment  and  refined  taste.  Par- 
ticular attention  has  been  paid  to  drainage,  and  no  epidemic  will  ever 
disturb  the  health  of  the  patrons  of  Kineo.  There  are  swings  and 
croquet  and  tennis  grounds  near  the  hotel,  and  lovers  of  base-ball 
have  ample  room  to  indulge  in  the  national  game.  Cool  and  shady 
paths  wind  through  the  forest  in  different  directions,  furnishing  ro- 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDEENESS. 


101 


mantic  walks  to  various  places  of  interest.  Several  miles  of  carriage- 
road  have  also  been  constructed,  and  one  can  take  a  team  at  the  hotel 
and  pass  an  hour  or  more  very  pleasantly  in  driving  about  the  vicinity. 
Leaving  the  hotel,  we  pass  to  the  rear  of  the  house  and  follow  a  path 
that  runs  along  near  the  base  of  the  mountain,  furnishing  us  with 
grand  and  impressive  views  the  entire  way.  Across  field  and  pasture 
and  forest  we  pursue  our  ramble,  and  after  a  few  minutes'  walk  reach 
Cliff  Beach,  where  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  "  Cliff,"  as  it  frowns 
down  upon  us.  Kineo  Bay  lies  before  us  in  all  its  beauty,  and  beyond 
North  Bay  stretches  some  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  away  to  the  head  of 
the  lake.  An  hour  may  be  spent  very  pleasantly  at  the  Cliff.  Table 
Rock,  a  favorite  resort  of  the  fly-fishermen,  is  but  a  short  distance 
from  here. 

Having  spent  sufficient  time  at  the  Cliff,  we  follow  along  the  shore 
of  Kineo  Bay,  easterly,  and  in  a  few  minutes  reach  Pebbly  Beach,  one 
of  the  greatest  curiosities  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Mount  Kineo  House. 
Several  rough  bowlders  make  a  divide  between  Cliff  and  Pebbly 
Beaches.  Pebbly  Beach  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long,  and  cov- 
ered to  a  great  depth  with  the  handsomest  pebbles  we  have  ever  seen, 
of  every  size,  shape,  and  color.  From  the  beach  one  has  a  magnifi- 
cent view  of  the  lake,  and  can  be  amused  here  for  hours,  either  in 
examining  and  making  a  collection  of  the  beautiful  pebbles,  or  study- 
ing the  charming  scenery  and  listening  to  the  enchanting  music  of  the 
waves  as  they  murmur  and  sing  along  the  beach.  From  here  also  one 
obtains  a  view  of  a  moose's  neck  and  head,  with  branching  horns  and 
antlers,  that  appears  on  the  face  of  the  "  Cliff,"  not  far  from  Pulpit 
Rock.    It  can  be  seen  to  the  best  advantage  on  a  bright,  sunny  day. 

Just  beyond  Pebbly  Beach  is  the  Mystic  Grotto.  Down  in  a  little 
dell  a  mass  of  broken  rock  forms  a  natural  grotto,  a  favorite  resort  for 
lovers  of  nature.  Its  entire  seclusiveness  adds  to  its  attraction,  and 
makes  it  a  charming  place  to  while  away  a  leisure  hour. 

Leaving  the  grotto,  we  retrace  our  steps  to  Pebbly  Beach,  and  there 
take  a  different  path  for  our  return.  The  way  lies  nearly  the  whole 
distance  through  the  forest,  where  delicious  shade  and  cool  air  are 
highly  appreciated  on  a  warm  day.  The  path  is  good  and  easy  to  fol- 
low. About  half-way  to  the  house  we  reach  the  Gold  Mine,  which  is 
on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  path.  It  consists  of  a  huge  ledge  of 
quartz  rock  that  reaches  to  Pebbly  Beach.  Several  years  ago  Mr. 
Chenery  did  some  blasting  here,  and  had  the  rock  assayed,  wdiich 
yielded  ten  dollars'  worth  of  gold  to  the  ton.    From  the  gold  obtained 


102 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


he  had  a  small  pin  manufactured.  Amateur  prospectors  will  find  this 
a  good  place  to  kill  time,  and  if  they  do  not  find  any  gold  they  will  at 
least  get  healthy  exercise. 

As  we  come  out  from  the  woods,  in  sight  of  the  hotel,  two  little 
bark  shanties  attract  our  attention.  These  are  the  lodges  of  an  Indian 
family  of  the  Tomar  tribe  of  Canada.  Here  they  live  the  greater  por- 
tion of  the  season,  making  canoes,  baskets,  and  other  knick-knacks 
from  birch  bark,  which  in  summer  they  readily  dispose  of  to  the 
strangers  who  visit  Kineo. 

From  Indian  Lodge  the  path  lies  on  the  top  of  a  gravelly  ridge,  and 
a  few  moments'  w^alk  brings  us  to  the  hotel. 

The  Devil's  Delight  is  a  short  distance  from  the  hotel,  on  the  south 
side  of  Mount  Kineo.  A  pleasant  path  leads  to  it.  Here  the  moun- 
tain has  succumbed  to  the  ravages  of  time  and  storm;  and  great 
masses  of  the  rock,  loosened  by  the  frosts  of  winter  and  the  lightning 
shafts  of  summer,  have  been  torn  and  rent  asunder,  and  have  fallen 
in  inextricable  confusion  below,  where  they  lie  in  every  shape,  the 
debris  forming  a  hard  road  over  which  to  travel. 

One  wishing  to  take  a  short  walk  will  find  it  a  pleasant  stroll  to  go 
over  the  grounds  in  front  of  the  house,  or  along  the  beach  to  the 

Three  Sisters,"  a  group  of  pines  on  the  w^estern  shore,  offering  an 
inviting  shade,  where  you  can  lounge  to  your  heart's  content,  watch- 
ing the  sparkling  waves,  the  blue  sky,  and  the  towering  mountains. 

During  the  fall  of  1879  Mr.  Dennen  made  another  effort  to  improve 
the  attractiveness  of  Mount  Kineo  to  visitors,  by  having  a  hatching- 
house  for  the  propagation  of  trout  and  land-locked  salmon  erected  on 
a  small  stream  emptying  into  Kineo  Bay,  about  two  miles  from  the 
hotel.  It  was  constructed  under  the  superintendence  of  Henry  O. 
Stanley,  of  Dixfield,  Me.  The  building  is  sixteen  feet  by  thirty  feet, 
and  contains  eight  troughs,  eighteen  feet  in  length  by  sixteen  inches 
in  wddth,  capable  of  accommodating  five  hundred  thousand  eggs. 
There  is  also  room  to  add  more  troughs  if  needed,  and  by  the  addition 
of  wire-bottomed  trays,  such  as  are  used  at  the  United  States  Hatch- 
ing Works  at  Grand  Lake  Stream,  to  double  the  capacity  of  the  house. 
Mr.  Dennen  also  had  a  small  but  comfortable  house  built  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  stream  from  the  Hatching  Works  for  the  use  of  the 
person  who  takes  charge  of  the  hatching  during  the  winter.  The 
grounds  in  the  vicinity  of  the  buildings  have  been  improved,  and  the 
hatching-house  and  its  surroundings  will  in  future  become  a  favorite 
resort  for  the  visitors  to  Mount  Kineo.    A  good  path  leads  from  the 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS.  103 


hotel  to  the  hatching-house,  and  the  walk  is  a  pleasant  one.  As  the 
buildings  stand  but  a  few  rods  from  the  lake  shore,  they  can  be  reached 
easily  by  boat  if  one  desires  a  water  trip,  although  the  distance  by 
water  is  more  than  double  the  land  route.  Moosehead  Lake  will  now 
not  only  have  half  a  million  trout  eggs  yearly  hatched  and  turned  into 
her  waters,  but  will  also  add  salmon  to  restock  the  exhausted  waters 
of  the  Kennebec. 

Many  thousand  of  the  speckled  brook  trout  and  land-locked  salmon 
are  turned  out  of  the  Mount  Kineo  Hatching  House  each  year,  thus 
largely  increasing  the  number  of  fish  in  the  lake,  and  guaranteeing 
to  fishermen  a  good  catch  in  the  future. 

Mr.  Dennen  has  talked  some  of  building  a  rough  road,  sufficiently 
good  for  buckboard  travelling,  through  the  woods  from  the  Mount 
Kineo  House  to  the  base  of  Spencer  Mountains,  a  distance  of  about 
twelve  miles.  Should  this  ever  be  done,  an  excursion  to  the  Spencer 
Mountains  would  be  one  of  the  most  popular  that  could  be  made  from 
the  hotel,  and  hundreds  would  make  the  ascent  of  those  sightly  and 
symmetrical  peaks.  The  long  and  arduous  trip  to  be  made  now,  before 
one  even  reaches  the  base  of  the  mountains,  deters  nearly  everybody 
from  making  the  trial,  and  I  believe  only  one  lady  has  ever  had  the 
courage  and  determination  to  attempt  it. 

In  October,  1879,  Mrs.  George  H.  Witherle,  of  Castine,  Me.,  ac- 
companied by  her  husband  and  a  guide,  made  the  ascent,  and  reached 
the  top  of  the  highest  peak  of  the  Spencer  Mountains.  She  has  the 
honor  of  being  the  first  white  woman  w^ho  ever  stood  on  the  summit 
of  Spencer  Mountains,  although  several  ladies  have  ascended  Ktaadn. 

BOAT  EXCURSIONS. 

The  excursions  one  may  make  by  boat  from  the  Mount  Kineo  House 
are  almost  unlimited,  and  we  propose  to  mention  only  the  more  popu- 
lar ones.  We  will  commence  with  those  nearest  the  hoteL  On  these 
water  trips  one  has  choice  of  canoe,  row-boat,  or  steamer. 

Leaving  Kineo  directly  after  breakfast,  and  crossing  to  the  western 
shore  of  the  lake,  we  reach  the  mouth  of  Moose  River,  and,  passing 
to  the  left  of  Muskrat  Island,  a  pleasant  sail  of  four  miles  brings  us  to 
Brassau  Lake.  Part  of  the  distance  on  the  river  is  through  rapids  that 
furnish  many  picturesque  views.  At  the  foot  of  the  first  rapids  you 
reach  in  going  up  the  river  is  a  pretty  wooded  islet.  This  was  chris- 
tened "  Gertrude  Isle,"  by  John  A.  Gardner,  of  Providence,  R.I., 


104 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


Sept.  13,  1878,  in  honor  of  Mrs.  G.  The  island  is  a  favorite  place  for 
picnics.  Eating  our  lunch  at  the  lake,  we  return  to  Kineo  in  the 
afternoon,  having  spent  an  enjoyable  day.  There  is  excellent  fishing 
at  Brassau,  and  where  one  takes  a  day  for  the  trip  there  is  plenty  of  time 
to  try  the  virtue  of  flies  and  rods.  Misery  Stream  empties  into  Brassau 
Lake  about  a  mile  from  Moose  River,  and  furnishes  excellent  fishing. 
Little  Brassau,  a  miniature  lake,  lies  about 


LOOKING  UP  MOOSE  RIVEK. 


about  two  miles  above  Moose  River,  on  the  same  side  of  the  lake.  A 
trip  to  the  brook  from  Kineo  gives  one  a  sail  of  eight  miles,  and  fur- 
nishes an  agreeable  excursion  for  half  a  day. 

Tomhegan  Stream,  six  miles  distant  from  Kineo,  is  a  favorite  place 
for  excursions  from  the  hotel,  and  a  day  is  needed  to  enjoy  the  trip 
thoroughly.  It  is  a  pretty  place ;  and  if  visitors  wish  to  camp  over 
night  they  will  find  many  pleasant  spots  on  which  to  pitch  their  tent. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  streams  that  empty  into  Moosehead  is  the 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


105 


SOCATEAN  RIVER, 

eight  miles  from  Kineo.  It  is  a  narrow  stream,  its  waters  deep  and 
dark,  flowing  in  an  irregular  course,  between  banks  thickly  wooded. 
Four  miles  from  the  lake  are  Socatean  Falls,  of  which  we  give  an  illus- 
tration. Excursions  to  this  river  from  Kineo  are  frequent  during  the 
summer,  and  we  know  of  no  more  enjoyable  one  on  the  entire  lake. 
One  who  is  pressed  for  time  may,  by  the  aid  of  the  "  Kineo  "  and  a 
canoe,  visit  all  of  these  places  in  a  day. 

The  Moody  Islands,  lying  south  of  Kineo,  and  but  two  miles  distant, 
furnish  a  pleasant  half-day's  excursion  by  row-boat  or  canoe. 

The  largest  of  these  islands  is  a  perfect  gem.  Its  shores  are  very 
irregular,  and  on  the  north  side  is  a  pretty  cave  almost  landlocked. 
The  shores  are  divided  into  sand  beaches,  pebble  beaches,  and  rough 
bowlders.  The  island  is  quite  thickly  wooded,  some  of  the  lumber 
used  in  the  construction  of  the  hotel  having  been  cut  upon  it,  and 
otfers  several  inviting  spots  for  picnics.  The  island  narrows  up  in  the 
middle,  until  only  a  few  feet  wide,  and  somewhat  resembles  a  pair  of 
spectacles  in  shape.  In  the  spring,  when  the  water  is  high,  it  flows 
across  the  narrow  strip  of  beach,  making  two  islands.  The  island 
contains  a  great  many  beautiful  mosses  and  wild  flowers,  and  guests 
from  the  hotel  frequently  devote  a  day  to  its  exploration,  taking  their 
dinner  with  them.  The  smaller  Moody  Island  is  a  few  rods  south  of 
the  large  one,  and  is  partially  wooded.  On  the  back  side  of  it  the 
rock  has  peeled  off  in  layers,  leaving  a  perpendicular  wall  from  two 
to  eight  feet  high,  and  some  rods  in  length.  At  the  head  of  a  little 
pebbly  beach,  at  the  western  end  of  this  island,  is  a  large  bowlder 
known  as  Eagle  Rock.  The  white  gulls  that  are  seen  about  the  lake 
build  their  nests  and  raise  their  young  on  these  islands. 

One  of  the  most  pleasant  and  popular  trips  from  Kineo  is  a  sail  to 
Kineo  Bay.  Leaving  the  hotel,  our  course  lies  around  the  point,  fol- 
lowing the  shore,  and  passing  Kineo  Landing  and  the  farm;  next  we 
double  Hardscrabble,  a  reef  of  rocks  at  the  northwest  corner  of  the 
shore;  pursuing  our  way  we  round  the  eastern  shore  and  enter  Kineo 
Bay;  here  we  visit  Pulpit  Rock  and  the  Cliff,  and  make  a  landing  on 
the  side  of  the  old  mountain,  whose  lofty  top  projects  several  feet 
beyond  us,  overhanging  the  w^aters  of  the  lake,  black  as  night  and  of 
unknown  depth.  It  is  a  place  where  visitors  find  a  feeling  of  awe  in- 
stinctively creeping  over  them,  as  they  gaze  at  the  majestic  mountain 
above  them,  and  at  the  dark  pool  beneath.    Several  slides  on  this  side 


106 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


of  the  mountain  have  left  a  mass  of  broken  and  spHntered  rock  at  the 
water's  edge,  on  which  a  few  liardy  trees  struggle  for  an  existence. 

There  is  a  remarkable  echo  here,  the  solid  sides  of  the  mountain 
throwing  back  clear  and  distinct  the  least  noise  or  sound.  The 
^'  Kineo  "  often  runs  in  here  to  try  her  whistle,  for  the  amusement  of 
excursionists. 

COWAN'S  COVE 

is  a  little  over  two  miles  southeast  of  the  Mount  Kineo  House,  and  is 
a  charming  place.  The  cove  runs  in  from  the  lake  about  two  miles. 
There  is  an  island  at  the  entrance  known  as  Mutton  Chop  Island,  — 
a  lovely  place  for  a  picnic.  About  half-way  to  the  head  of  the  cove, 
another  island,  the  smaller  of  the  two,  rises  abruptly  from  the  middle 
of  the  water,  and  is  called  Bowlder  Island  from  the  number  of  large 
bowlders  that  are  found  upon  it.  Both  of  these  islands  are  wooded, 
and  one  wishing  to  take  dinner  on  either  of  them  will  find  plenty  of 
driftwood  for  fires.  There  is  good  fishing  in  this  cove,  and  if  you  do 
not  wish  to  take  dinner  away  from  the  hotel  half  a  day  is  ample  for 
the  excursion. 

THE  WEST  OUTLET 

is  two  miles  southwest  of  the  Mount  Kineo  House,  and  a  trip  to  it 
forms  a  pleasant  half-day's  excursion.  A  short  arm  of  the  lake  makes 
inhere.  The  entrance  is  narrow  and  shallow;  passing  through  you 
enter  a  small  bay,  circular  in  shape,  and  almost  completely  landlocked. 
There  is  a  small  island  near  the  middle  of  the  bay.  The  bottom  here 
is  very  rocky,  and  furnishes  good  fishing.  The  water  at  the  mouth  of 
this  outlet  never  freezes  hard,  and  the  steamers  are  anchored  here  in 
the  fall  when  they  go  into  winter  quarters. 

One  of  the  prettiest  trips  that  can  be  made  on  the  Kineo  'Ms  that 
to  the  Kennebec  Dam,  at  the  East  Outlet.  The  course  lies  down  the 
lake  from  the  hotel,  past  the  Moody  Islands,  and  Sloop  Island,  then 
between  Sandbar  and  Hogback  Islands,  then  by  Spider,  Snake,  and 
Black  Islands  on  the  right,  and  Squaw  Point  on  the  left,  reaching  the 
wharf  at  the  dam.  There  is  excellent  fishing  anywhere  in  this 
vicinity.  The  river  is  quite  wide,  and  about  a  mile  below  the  dam  are 
some  picturesque  rapids.  An  old  road  runs  along  the  north  bank  of 
the  river  to  Gooderich's  farm,  two  miles  beyond.  It  is  a  fair  road  to 
walk  over;  and  after  the  first  day  of  September  one  will  find  good 
partridge  shooting,  as  the  cover  in  the  vicinity  is  unusually  fine. 

On  the  right  of  the  little  beach,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Kineo,  is  a 


SOOATEAN  FALLS. 


AND   NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


109 


large  ledge  that  rises  almost  perpendicularly  from  the  lake.  Upon  the 
southern  side  of  this  is  the  figure  of  an  Indian  chief,  about  eight  or 
ten  inches  high,  painted  in  a  color  resembling  red  ochre.  This  picture 
has  been  there  for  years,  and  neither  time  nor  storms  seem  to  have 
any  effect  upon  it.  It  was  no  doubt  the  work  of  Indians  many  gen- 
erations ago.  Capt.  Brown,  of  the  "  Day  Dream,"  first  discovered 
the  painting. 

For  an  excursion  of  several  days,  Spencer  Pond  offers  many  attrac- 
tions. It  is  one  of  the  remotest  points  on  the  lake,  and  its  outlet,  a 
mile  and  a  half  long,  empties  into  Spencer  Bay,  fifteen  miles  from 
Kineo.  Its  shores  are  wild  and  marshy,  and  the  vegetation  about 
them  partakes  of  a  tropical  character.  It  is  an  excellent  fishing  spot, 
and  a  favorite  resort  for  ducks.  Partridges  are  abundant  in  the 
vicinity.  The  bottom  of  the  pond  is  muddy,  and  pond-lilies  grow 
luxuriously  in  some  parts  of  it. 

SPENCER  MOUNTAIN, 

about  a  mile  distant,  offers  a  chance  for  persons  to  try  their  muscle 
and  courage  in  its  ascent.  It  is  difficult  of  access,  and  but  few 
sportsmen  have  ever  reached  its  summit.  Old  Ellis,  a  noted  trapper, 
is  said  to  have  been  the  first  white  man  to  stand  upon  its  top. 

Little  Spencer,  a  miniature  pond,  nestles  among  the  hills  a  mile  dis- 
tant to  the  north,  connected  with  the  larger  pond  by  a  small  brook. 

The  Poach  Ponds  are  reached  from  Lily  Bay,  and  several  days  are 
needed  to  visit  them.  Parties  making  this  excursion  can  procure 
accommodations  at  the  hotel  at  Poach  River  Farm,  belonging  to 
Morrison  &  Hunting,  who  run  the  stage  line  from  Lily  Bay  to 
Roach  River,  and  will  find  the  present  occupant  an  obliging  host, 
anxious  to  please  his  guests. 

ASCENT  OF  MOUNT  KINEO. 

The  ascent  of  Mount  Kineo  is  easily  made,  and  no  one  who  visits 
the  hotel  thinks  of  leaving  without  climbing  the  mountain,  if  able  to 
bear  such  a  jaunt.  One  might  as  well  visit  Niagara  and  not  go  out 
to  view  the  Falls. 

A  boat-ride  of  a  mile  brings  us  to  Kineo  Landing,  a  small,  gravelly 
beach  on  the  western  side  of  the  mountain.  Stepping  from  the  boat 
we  notice  a  sign-board,  warning  persons  not  to  roll  stones  down  the 
eastern  side  of  the  mountain,  which  overhangs  Kineo  Bay.  This  is 
to  guard  people  who  may  be  on  the  water  below  from  accident;  it  is 


110 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


a  very  sensible  precaution,  and  should  be  strictly  observed  by  all  who 
visit  the  top  of  the  mountain. 

The  path  leads  from  the  beach  up  the  base  of  the  mountain,  swing- 
ing off  to  the  southern  side  and  following  the  verge  of  the  precipice 
to  the  summit, — at  times  a  safe  distance  away  from  it,  at  others  un- 
comfortably near  for  timid  persons,  or  those  with  weak  nerves.  In 
some  places  it  is  smooth,  in  others  rough,  but  never  very  difficult.  It 
will  take  from  half  an  hour  to  an  hour  to  reach  the  top,  and  ladies 
suitably  dressed  can  go  up  as  easily  as  gentlemen.  In  the  depression 
betw^een  the  two  crests  an  ice-cold  spring  of  sparkling  water,  pure  and 
clear,  bubbles  up  through  the  sand  from  beneath  a  mossy  rock,  and 
flows  westward.  Many,  after  their  weary  climb,  assuage  their  thirst 
from  this  welcome  gift  of  nature. 

The  toil  of  the  ascent  is  scarcely  noticed,  so  busily  engaged  are  we 
in  catching  glimpses  of  the  picture  around  us,  which,  like  some  dis- 
solving view,  changes  with  each  onward  step.  IS'ow  we  stop  for  a 
moment  to  scan  the  silvery  lake,  whose  sparkling  bosom  is  decked 
with  islands  of  emerald  green.  Then  we  gaze  in  admiration  upon  the 
mountains  miles  away,  whose  summits,  clear  and  well  defined,  tower 
thousands  of  feet  above  the  sea. 

Onward  w^e  pursue  our  way,  and  finally  reach  the  summit,  the  goal 
of  our  ambition.  Here  the  scene,  in  all  its  wM  beauty  and  majestic 
grandeur,  bursts  upon  us.  We  stand  in  mute  admiration,  and  catch 
the  inspiration  of  the  place.  How  can  we  describe  it,  when  no  pen 
can  do  it  justice?  The  blue  sky  above  us  curtained  with  fleecy  clouds; 
the  distant  mountains,  some  so  far  away  that  their  outlines  are  scarcely 
perceptible;  the  sloping  sides  of  nearer  hills  wooded  to  the  top;  a 
continuous  forest,  wild  and  dense,  broken  only  by  two  or  three  small 
clearings  within  the  whole  range  of  our  vision;  northward,  the  lake 
ending  against  the  sky,  aline  of  tall  trunks  apparently  forming  a  bar- 
rier to  those  who  would  penetrate  the  distant  wilderness;  southward, 
the  lake  gemmed  with  islands,  and  finally  closed  in  by  surrounding 
mountains,  concealing  from  our  view  the  country  beyond,  ^^orth  Bay, 
the  North-east  and  Korth-west  Carries,  Brassau  Lake,  Moose  Biver, 
the  West  and  East  Outlets,  Lily  Bay,  Spencer  Bay,  Kineo  Junior,  the 
Twin  Spencers,  Mount  Ktaadn,  the  Lily  Bay  Range,  Old  Squaw,  Bald 
Head,  Misery  Mountain,  and  many  others  are  seen  from  the  top  of 
Kineo. 

At  several  different  places  on  its  summit  embryo  monuments  mark 
the  spot  where  former  visitors  have  attempted  to  leave  some  token  of 
their  presence. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


113 


If  one  has  the  nerve,  and  is  foolhardy  enough  to  make  the  attempt, 
he  can  crawl  out  upon  the  crumbling  edge  of  the  precipice  that  over- 
hangs Kineo  Bay,  and  drop  a  stone  that  will  strike  the  water  thirty 
feet  from  the  base  of  the  mountain.  A  single  slip  here  would  in  a 
moment  send  a  -soul  into  eternity,  —  a  single  false  step  put  one 
beyond  the  aid  of  man.  It  is  a  spot  one  naturally  shrinks  from,  as  if 
afraid  some  invisible  spirit  might  hurl  him  into  the  abyss  below. 
Far  beneath,  the  screaming  eagles  guard  their  young  among  the  frown- 
ing cliffs,  and  laugh  to  scorn  any  attempt  at  capture. 

Many  hours  may  be  delightfully  and  profitably  spent  on  Mount 
Kineo,  and  we  advise  all  who  make  the  ascent  to  take  lunch  with 
them,  and  devote  a  day  to  it,  confident  that  they  will  be  well  satisfied 
with  the  time  spent  in  the  trip.  The  descent  of  the  mountain  is  a 
little  easier  than  the  ascent,  and  is  made  much  quicker. 

A  friend  of  the  writer,  who  made  the  ascent  of  Kineo  some  years 
ago,  thus  relates  his  experience:  — 

"  After  dinner  a  party  of  us  attempted  to  scale  the  front  of  the 
precipice.  It  seems,  when  viewed  from  the  house,  to  be  but  a  few 
rods  distant,  but  we  found  it  to  be  nearly  a  mile.  Its  south  and  east 
sides  are  perpendicular,  and  varying  from  two  to  eleven  hundred  feet 
in  height.  It  is  composed  of  greenstone  porphyry,  much  resembling 
flint,  except  in  its  color,  which  is  light  green,  and  is  the  material  from 
which  most  of  the  Indian  arrow-heads  are  made.  We  attempted  the 
ascent  towards  the  west  end,  where  the  perpendicular  is  about  four 
hundred  and  fifty  feet.  After  a  severe  scramble  we  succeeded  in 
getting  up  nearly  to  the  top,  when  we  were  brought  to  a  halt  by  a 
wall  of  rock,  so  compact  that  we  could  neither  get  our  fingers  or  toes 
into  it.  Here  was  a  fix.  It  was  comparatively  safe  to  climb  up,  for 
we  could  see  what  we  were  laying  hold  upon,  although  at  times  we 
were  spread  out  face  to  the  ledge,  like  a  person  being  crucified,  with- 
out room  to  turn  either  way ;  but  the  backing  down  was  quite  another 
thing.  Backing  down  is  always  disagreeable,  but  in  this  instance  it 
was  particularly  so.  Above  was  but  fifty  feet  to  the  top,  but  this  dis- 
tance was  impassable.  Below  was  four  hundred  feet,  and  a  splendid 
chance  to  fall.  After  a  hard  scramble  we  succeeded  in  getting  down 
with  whole  necks,  which  was  more  than  I  expected.  Being  deter- 
mined not  to  give  up  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  we  returned  to  the 
house,  procured  a  sail-boat,  and  went  around  by  the  lake  to  the  north- 
west end;  from  this  point,  after  a  scramble  of  a  mile  and  a  half,  we 
reached  the  summit,  just  previous  to  which  we  discovered,  within  a 


114 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


few  feet  of  the  brink  of  the  precipice,  a  clear,  beautiful  spring  of  the 
most  delicious  water  that  I  ever  tasted.  One  of  our  party  drank  im- 
moderately of  it,  stopping  after  each  draught  to  comment  upon  the 
difference  between  it  and  the  rusty  Cochituate  we  were  accustomed 
to  drink  in  Boston. 

The  view  from  the  summit  well  repaid  us  for  the  trouble  we  had 
taken  to  get  there.  Far  away  to  the  north  and  south  stretched  the 
beautiful  lake,  broken  into  a  thousand  bays  and  inlets,  and  dotted  with 
islands  wooded  to  the  water's  edge.  The  country,  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  see,  was  covered  with  one  vast,  interminable  forest  in  every 
direction,  broken  only  by  mountains  and  valleys,  which,  furrowed  by 
the  rays  of  the  setting  sun,  just  disappearing  behind  a  long  range  of 
blue  mountains,  far  in  the  hazy  distance,  formed  a  gorgeous  spectacle, 
and  one  that  I  shall  not  soon  forget. 

^'  Southward  could  be  seen  the  magnificent  lake,  now  calm  and 
glassy  as  a  mirror,  with  every  tint  and  hue  of  the  sunset  sky  reflected 
from  its  bosom,  stretching  far  away  until  lost  by  its  windings  among 
the  islands  and  forest;  while  in  the  southeast  stood  the  Spencer 
Mountains,  like  two  brothers,  side  by  side,  and  just  far  enough  away 
to  give  them  a  rich,  rosy  tint.  The  contrast  between  them  and  the 
dark,  heavy  forest  from  which  they  arose  was  extremely  beautiful. 

More  to  the  northward  and  nearly  east  from  us  stood  Mount 
Ktaadn,  solitary  and  alone  in  its  noble  grandeur,  towering  high  above 
all  others  in  the  view;  its  summit  seemed  divided  into  two  peaks, 
each  appearing  as  if  trying  to  outdo  the  other  in  height,  its  distance 
giving  it  a  deep  violet  color.  N'earer  to  us,  but  distant  four  or  five 
miles,  was  another  mountain  about  the  height  of  Kineo,  and  like  all 
the  others  covered  with  forest,  except  the  south  part  of  its  summit, 
which  was  a  perpendicular  precipice  of  two  or  three  hundred  feet. 
Below  us  lay  the  narrow  neck  of  land  connecting  Mount  Kineo  with 
the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake. 

Looking  northward  we  again  saw  the  lake  stretching  away  in  that 
direction  for  twenty  miles;  unlike  the  southern  half  it  is  clear  of 
islands,  except  a  few  small  ones  near  the  western  shore.  The  country 
to  the  northward  of  the  lake  is  more  even,  and  as  far  as  could  be  seen 
with  a  glass  it  was  covered  with  the  same  interminable  forest;  the 
predominance  of  evergreen  in  which  imparts  to  the  scene  a  dark, 
sombre  effect,  appearing  strange  to  eyes  unaccustomed  to  such  a  view. 

^'  Turning  to  the  westward  our  gaze  is  arrested  by  long  ranges  of 
mountains,  their  distances  indicated  by  their  different  tints  of  color, 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


115 


varying  from  a  delicate  rosy  hue  to  a  deep  blue,  and  sometimes  gray; 
these  being  beautifully  relieved  by  a  flood  of  golden  light  from  the 
setting  sun,  whose  rays  filled  the  whole  western  sky  and  gave  to  the 
landscape  an  appearance  of  enchantment.  iS"earer  to  us  could  be 
seen  Moose  liiver  winding  its  way  among  the  trees  until  it  empties 
into  the  lake  directly  opposite  Kineo.  Still  farther  west  glowed  the 
charming  Brassau  Lake  like  a  sea  of  gold  embosomed  in  the  forest. 
Altogether  the  scene  was  beautiful  beyond  description.  It  was  ren- 
dered more  impressive  by  the  strange  silence  that  pervaded  everything, 
^s^one  of  the  sounds  one  is  accustomed  to  hear  in  a  civilized  region: 
no  sound  of  voices,  or  the  ring  of  the  artisan's  hammer;  no  bells,  or 
the  shrill  scream  of  the  locomotive,  —  nothing  but  silence  everywhere. 
From  the  spot  where  we  stood  a  descent  of  about  fifty  feet  brought 
me  to  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height, 
perpendicular  from  the  lake  on  the  left  and  the  forest  on  the  right. 

I  sat  upon  the  brink  of  the  clitf  and  amused  myself  with  drop- 
ping stones  over  into  the  lake  and  noting  the  time  of  their  descent. 
There  was  one  in  our  party  I  could  not  induce  to  look  over  the  brink. 
He  complained  of  a  curious  morbid  impulse  or  desire  to  jump  over. 
I  have  heard  others  complain  of  the  same  sensation  when  standing 
upon  high  places.  When  I  first  looked  over,  a  feeling  of  awe  crept 
over  me  at  the  dizzy  height,  but  I  had  no  disposition  to  jump  over. 

^' We  amused  ourselves  part  of  the  time  with  rolling  large  stones 
over  to  the  right,  and  listening  to  the  crash  as  they  fell  into  the  forest. 
The  ground  at  this  place  w^as  covered  with  large  mountain  blueberries. 
We  stow^ed  away  as  many  as  our  capacity  would  allow.  While  eating 
the  berries  w^e  espied  a  birch  canoe  put  off  from  the  landing  to  bring 
us  back  to  the  house,  and  we  started  down  to  the  lake,  arriving  at  the 
shore  just  in  season  to  meet  our  conveyance.  The  process  of  getting 
seated  in  a  birch  canoe  without  getting  spilled  out  is  a  very  delicate 
one.  We  accomplished  it,  however,  after  several  attempts,  in  a  very 
successful  manner  for  greenhorns,  the  guide  said.  Our  tiny  bark  sped 
swiftly  over  the  placid  water,  propelled  by  the  strong  arms  of  the 
guide,  and  we  landed  at  the  hotel  just  in  season  for  supper,  and  well 
pleased  with  our  ascent  of  Mount  Kineo." 

'Now  that  the  International  Kailway  is  finished,  one  of  the  most 
satisfactory  excursions  that  can  be  made  from  Kineo  will  be  to  go  to 
the  East  Outlet,  load  your  canoe  and  supplies  on  the  train,  then  go 
by  rail  to  the  head  waters  of  Moose  Kiver,  and  leave  you  at  the  west- 
ern end  of  Holeb  Pond.    Then,  after  taking  a  look  at  Holeb,  which 


116 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSE  HEAD  LAKE 


is  a  very  pretty  little  sheet  of  water,  you  can  canoe  it  down  Moose 
River,  and  through  Attean  and  Wood  Ponds,  Long  Pond,  Little  Bras- 
sau,  and  Brassau  Lake  to  Moosehead,  and  back  to  Kineo.  This  ex- 
cursion can  be  made  in  three  days,  but  to  enjoy  it  thoroughly  you 
should  take  six.  If  you  go  alone  you  will  need  a  guide,  as  there  are 
carries  where  you  could  not  handle  your  canoe  alone,  but  two  sports- 
men can  easily  make  the  trip  without  a  guide.  For  details  of  the  route 
see  Chapter  VIII. 

THE  GUIDES  AND  FISHING. 

At  the  Mount  Kineo  House  one  can  obtain  the  best  of  guides.  They 
are  practical  woodsmen,  good-natured,  tough,  and  hardy,  and  will  use 
their  best  endeavors  to  please.  They  can  tell  you  all  about  the  fishing 
and  hunting,  and  show  you  to  any  place  you  may  wish  to  visit. 

Their  terms  are  $3.00  per  day  while  about  the  hotel,  they  boarding 
themselves.  On  river  trips,  that  necessitate  camping  out,  they  have 
$3.00  per  day  and  their  board.  They  furnish  canoe,  tent,  and  cook- 
ing utensils;  the  party  engaging  them  finds  the  provisions.  They  are 
intelligent  and  wide-awake,  capital  story-tellers,  successful  hunters, 
and  expert  fishermen.  They  are  very  skilful  in  handling  a  canoe,  and 
it  is  no  more  for  them  to  pole  up  a  bad  rapid  in  a  birch  than  it  would 
be  for  an  ordinary  boatman  to  go  over  the  same  distance  in  dead 
water. 

The  fishing  in  the  vicinity  of  Kineo  is  as  good  as  in  any  part  of  the 
lake.  Table  Rock,  near  the  end  of  the  Cliff,  is  a  great  resort  for  fly- 
fishermen,  and  large  quantities  of  trout  are  caught  there  in  June  and 
September.  For  deep-water  fishing,  a  buoy  is  anchored  out  in  the 
lake  in  sixty  feet  of  water,  half  a  mile  west  from  the  hotel.  This  spot 
is  kept  well  baited  to  attract  the  fish.  The  fishing-parties  fasten  their 
boats  to  this  buoy,  and  then  indulge  in  the  sport.  The  laker,  the 
spotted  brook-trout,  and  whitefish,  are  all  caught  at  this  place.  The 
laker  is  a  species  of  trout,  possessing  a  forked  tail,  with  no  red  spots 
on  the  belly,  and  sometimes  attains  a  weight  of  twenty-five  or  thirty 
pounds.  The  whitefish  averages  a  pound  and  a  half  in  weight, 
although  some  have  been  caught  double  that  weight,  and  are  consid- 
ered very  nice  eating.  Although  rather  oily  in  taste,  some  prefer 
them  to  trout.  When  the  fishermen  return  to  the  hotel  it  is  cus- 
tomary to  place  the  fish  in  pans  on  the  piazza,  where  they  can  be  seen 
by  all,  and  a  strong  rivalry  exists  to  see  who  will  bring  home  the 
largest  number. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


119 


Bait-fisliing  is  best  from  April  to  June,  deep-water  fishing  in  July 
and  the  early  part  of  August,  and  fly-fishing  the  last  of  August  and 
through  September.  Both  flies  and  bait  are  used  at  all  seasons.  The 
speckled  brook  trout  are  the  best  to  eat,  and  the  most  gamy  to  catch, 
and  vary  in  weight  from  a  quarter  of  a  pound  to  four  or  five  pounds. 

In  addition  to  the  fishing  about  Kineo,  one  can  visit  the  Outlet, 
Moose  River,  Brassau  Lake,  Misery  Stream,  Baker  Brook,  Tomhegan, 
-Socatean  River,  and  many  other  places,  from  which  he  is  almost  cer- 
tain to  return  with  a  good  string  of  trout. 

THE  HUNTING. 

Between  the  hotel  and  Kineo  Bay  there  is  a  piece  of  woodland, 
about  two  miles  long  and  a  mile  wide,  that  furnishes  good  cover  for 
partridges,  and  many  ar  ;  found  here  through  September  and  October. 
There  is  scarcely  a  day  in  the  fall  that  some  of  these  birds  do  not  find 
their  way  to  the  hotel  table,  having  passed  through  the  skilful  hands 
•of  the  admirable  cook  that  caters  to  the  inner  wants  of  the  guests  at 
Kineo,  and  prove  a  w^elcome  addition  to  the  bill  of  fare. 

We  make  an  extract  from  an  article  published  a  number  of  years 
ago  on  Moosehead  Lake,  which  pretty  well  covers  the  above  heading. 
The  only  point  in  which  we  differ  from  the  author  is  in  his  locating 
the  game  at  such  a  distance  from  Moosehead,  as  numbers  of  deer,  cari- 
hou,  and  other  game  are  shot  each  year  in  close  proximity  to  the  lake 
shore. 

"  Many  people  are  disappointed  with  the  hunting.  They  come  ex- 
pecting to  find  bears  without  searching  for  them,  and  to  kill  i^artridges 
by  the  dozen  with  a  single  charge  of  buck-shot.  The  game  around 
the  lake  has  been  greatly  killed  off,  and  one  must  go  long  distances  to 
find  what  he  wishes.  The  real  hunter  goes  where  the  game  is,  and 
the  guides  are  chiefly  engaged  during  the  winter  in  hunting  expedi- 
tions. They  usually  go  in  pairs,  warmly  dressed,  but  not  burdened 
with  equipments,  and  are  often  absent  a  month  or  six  weeks  from 
home.  They  carry  a  gun,  an  axe,  a  dipper,  matches,  a  few  pounds  of 
hard  bread,  and  make  their  tent  each  day  at  nightfall.  One  prepares 
logs  for  the  camp-fire,  while  the  other  with  his  snow-shoes  digs  down 
to  the  ground,  and  makes  a  place  eight  feet  square,  which  is  filled 
with  fir-boughs  at  the  bottom  and  sides.  A  fire  is  built  in  the  middle, 
and  they  lie  down,  one  on  each  side,  without  more  covering  than  the 
-clothes  worn  during  the  day.    The  only  caution  is  to  keep  your  feet 


120 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


warm.  Thus  men,  with  the  thermometer  clown  to  zero,  go  from 
Greenville  down  to  the  West  Branch  to  Ripogum's,  and  even  over  to 
Ktaadn  and  up  to  Chamberlain  Farm,  in  search  of  moose,  bears,  and 
caribou.  They  often  strike  a  trail,  and  turn  in  at  the  logging-camps, 
where  one  is  always  sure  of  a  generous  welcome. 

"  The  game  back  in  the  woods  is  abundant.  Moose  ten  years  ago 
were  very  plenty,  but  have  been  so  much  killed  off  that  they  are 
seldom  found  except  around  Ktaadn  and  farther  nortli  and  west. 
They  live  in  winter  on  browse  and  fir-boughs,  in  summer  on  blue-joint 
and  lilies;  are  short-sighted  and  strong-scented,  and  are  best  shot  near 
the  streams  and  lakes.  Bears  are  hunted  chiefly  in  September  and 
October.  They  feed  on  ants,  berries,  and  honey-trees,  prowl  around 
the  camps,  and  are  found  in  the  fall  by  the  streams  and  on  the  burned 
lands.  They  are  human  enough  to  be  exceedingly  fond  of  rum  and 
molasses,  and  are  often  trapped  or  shot  in  this  way.  Masterman,  the 
hero  of  bear-shooting,  says  that  he  never  had  one  face  him  yet.  The 
black-cats  live  on  hedgehogs,  mice,  and  various  small  game,  inhabit 
the  roughest  parts  of  the  mountains,  and  are  not  easily  trapped,  often 
biting  off  their  toes  in  order  to  escape.  The  beavers  live  together  in 
families  of  from  two  to  twelve.  The  Indians  watch  and  shoot  them 
at  night.  To  catch  them  you  have  to  set  your  trap  in  ten  inches  of 
water,  so  as  to  take  their  hind-legs.  The  musk-rats  are  taken  in 
traps,  or  in  their  holes  in  the  bank.  The  mink  is  chiefly  caught  in 
traps  at  dead-falls.  The  otter,  furnishing  the  best  fur,  live  on  fish,  and 
are  generally  trapped.  Deer  are  numerous,  live  much  like  the  moose, 
and  are  hunted  in  tlie  same  way.  The  caribou,  a  species  of  deer,  are 
plenty,  and  very  hard  to  kill.  They  live  principally  on  mosses  and 
browse,  and  are  still-hunted.  For  bird  game,  bald  eagles  are  plenty,  but 
not  often  killed ;  partridges  are  numerous,  and  are  hunted  in  September 
and  October;  and  black-duck  shooting  is  good  in  September  and  Octo- 
ber. The  loons  defy  the  skill  of  the  hunter.  They  are  the  evil  spirits 
of  the  lake.  Their  cry  sounds  like  the  mocking  laughter  of  demons, 
and  is  heard  at  all  times,  day  and  night.  They  are  about  the  size  of 
a  goose,  but  heavier,  always  in  motion,  and  seldom  caught  alive. 
They  are  shot  with  a  rifle,  but  are  so  quick  in  their  movements  that 
hardly  one  shot  in  a  thousand  takes  effect.  All  this  hunting  is  at 
your  hand,  if  you  are  patient  and  can  wait  for  it.  It  is  obviously  out 
of  reach  for  those  who  spend  but  a  week  at  the  lake,  and  live  at 
Mount  Kineo.  In  the  autunm  sportsmen  abound,  and  excursions  witli 
guides  to  all  accessible  points,  until  the  end  of  October,  are  the  order 


AND   NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


121 


of  the  day.  Even  then  Ufe  does  not  depart  from  the  lake.  The  lum- 
bermen succeed  the  sportsmen,  and  twelve  hundred  men  pass  up  into 
the  woods  and  back  again  to  the  towns  below  before  the  summer  vis- 
itors come  again.  In  these  grand  old  forests  Maine  finds  her  chief 
source  of  wealth." 


CHAPTEE  VIIL 


TWO  ROUTES  FR03I  BOSTON  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 
VIA  THE  FORKS  OF  THE  KENNEBEC  AND  MOOSE 
RIVER.— FIRST  ROUTE  VIA  OAKLAND,  SOLON,  AND 
BINGHAM. 


NE  can  leave  Boston  in  the  morning 
at  9.00  via  Eastern  or  8.30  o'clock 
via  Western  Division  of  Boston  and 
Maine  Railroad, connecting  at  Portland 
with  the  Maine  Central  Bailroad,  the 
great  thoroughfare  for  pleasure  travel 
through  the  State  of  Maine.  The  train 
leaves  Portland,  via  Lewiston,  at  1.15 
' 'r^VS  05  r  P.M.,  arriving  at  Oakland  at  4.13, 

Ij^^A^s'^^^y*  J^^^^^^  where  you  change  cars.     Baggage  is 
,  checked  through  from  Boston  to  Solon. 

If  you  have  time  to  spare  en  route, 
you  can  spend  a  few  days  at  Oakland  very  pleasantly.  It  is  a  pretty 
place,  has  some  fine  scenery,  and  contains  a  small  but  well-kept  and 
comfortable  hotel,  the  Oakland  House,  located  on  the  main  street,  but 
a  short  distance  from  the  railroad. 

The  Dunn  Edge-Tool  Company  furnishes  the  principal  industry  of 
the  place,  and  their  buildings  are  situated  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Mes- 
salonskee,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  depot.  Their  shops  are 
very  extensive,  giving  employment  to  one  hundred  and  seventy-five 
persons,  and  they  turn  out  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  dozen  scythes 
and  twenty  dozen  axes  each  working-day,  besides  tools  of  other  de- 
scriptions. Water,  of  which  they  have  an  ample  supply,  furnishes 
the  motive-power,  and  a  walk  through  the  long  line  of  buildings  is  an 
interesting  and  instructive  one.  In  one  shop  you  can  see  the  iron  and 
steel  in  the  rough,  and  trace  it  step  by  step  through  all  the  different 
processes,  until  it  becomes  a  finely  tempered  axe  or  scythe,  ready  for 

122 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


123 


market.  J.  Ayer,  Esq.,  the  President  of  the  Somerset  Railway,  and 
R.  B.  Dunn,  Esq.,  are  the  principal  owners.  The  company  also  own 
another  similar  establishment  at  Fayette.  W.  M,  Ayer,  Esq.,  Super- 
intendent of  the  Somerset  Railway,  is  also  connected  with  the  Dunn 
Edge-Tool  Company. 

Messalonskee  Lake  is  nine  miles  long  and  one  mile  wide,  and  con- 
tains several  islands.  It  is  a  very  pretty  sheet  of  water,  and  offers 
strong  inducements  to  those  who  like  bathing,  boating,  and  fishing. 
The  little  steam-launch  '*Ina"  runs  on  the  lake  during  the  summer, 
and  can  be  hired  for  excursions.  Several  miles  of  woodland  border 
on  the  lake,  offering  charming  places  for  picnic  and  camping-out 
parties. 

Below  the  Edge-Tool  Company's  dam,  Messalonskee  Stream  runs 
through  a  deep  and  precipitous  gorge,  forming  heavy  falls  and  rapids. 
The  entire  fall  is  sixty  feet  or  more,  in  two  nearly  perpendicular 
pitches,  the  first  about  fifty  feet  and  the  second  about  twenty.  This 
gorge  or  canon  is  perhaps  an  eighth  of  a  mile  long,  the  banks  being 
about  seventy  feet  high  at  the  upper  end,  and  decreasing  gradually  to 
about  three  feet  at  the  lower.  The  walls  are  formed  of  slate  rock,  and 
in  some  places  they  nearly  overhang  the  water.  Its  average  width  is 
about  forty  feet.  There  is  a  pretty  growth  of  mixed  woods  on  each 
side  of  the  stream.  It  is  a  charming  spot,  and  formerly  was  much 
resorted  to  by  picnic  parties ;  but  a  few  years  ago  a  young  lady  fell 
into  the  rapids  and  was  drowned,  and  now  the  place  is  rather  shunned 
by  such  gatherings.  Visitors  w^ould  do  well  to  be  careful  in  visiting 
the  falls  and  cascade,  for  a  single  careless  step  might  place  them  be- 
yond the  reach  of  earthly  aid. 

There  are  many  beautiful  drives  in  the  vicinity  of  Oakland,  and 
good  teams  may  be  obtained  at  the  hotel. 

In  leaving  Oakland  the  railroad  rises  by  a  heavy  grade  to  the  high 
land  in  Norridgewock;  the  rest  of  the  distance  the  grades  are  quite  easy. 
The  road  makes  some  sharp  turns,  disclosing,  as  it  sweeps  around  the 
bends,  lovely  views  of  the  river,  with  its  frequent  rapids  and  falls. 

Norridgewock,  one  of  the  earliest  settled  towns  in  Maine,  was  once 
the  shire  town  of  Somerset  County,  but  through  the  influence  of  the 
late  ex-Gov.  Coburn  and  his  brother  the  county  seat  was  changed  to 
Skowhegan,  new  buildings  being  erected  in  the  latter  town  and  pre- 
sented to  the  county  by  the  enterprising  Coburns,  to  whom  many 
places  in  Maine  owe  much  of  their  prosperity.  Norridgewock,  while 
t)eing  one  of  the  prettiest  towns  in  Maine,  has  the  additional  charm 


124 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


of  an  interesting  historical  record  in  connection  with  the  Indians. 
The  J^orridgewock  tribe,  an  offslioot  of  the  once  powerful  Abenahies, 
w^ho  at  one  time  owned  all  the  land  from  the  Penobscot  Valley  to 
Salmon  Falls  Kiver,  formerly  owned  the  lands  in  the  vicinity  of  Nor- 
ridgewock  and  Madison.  Their  encampment  w^s  near  the  river  bank, 
in  w^hat  is  at  present  an  open  field,  known  by  the  Indian  name  of  Old 
Point,  and  only  a  few  miles  above  the  present  site  of  Norridgewock 
village.  This  field,  however,  is  in  the  present  town  of  Madison, 
which  was  once  a  part  of  Korridgewock.  Persons  wishing  to  stop 
over  at  Madison  will  find  a  good  house  there,  the  Hotel  Weston.  The 
celebrated    Old  Point"  spring  water  is  used  in  this  house. 

The  only  remaining  memento  that  now  marks  the  spot  where  once 
clustered  the  wigwams  of  the  "  Norridgew^ogs  "  is  a  granite  monument 
erected  to  the  memory  of  Sebastian  Ralle,  or  Rasles,  a  French  priest 
of  the  Jesuit  order,  who  came  among  the  Indians  at  Old  Point  about 
the  beginning  of  the  year  1689.  This  monument  is  in  plain  sight  from 
the  cars  on  the  left  side  as  you  go  to  North  Anson. 

The  priest  learned  their  language,  manners,  and  customs,  and,  hav- 
ing once  obtained  a  controlling  ascendency  over  them,  was  not  slow  to 
use  it  by  inciting  the  Indians  against  their  English  neighbors,  and  they 
harassed  the  settlers  in  that  vicinity.  This  led  to  their  destruction, 
and  the  death  of  the  scheming  and  meddlesome  fanatic  at  their  head. 
On  the  19th  day  of  August,  1724,  a  detachment  of  four  companies, 
consisting  of  two  hundred  and  eight  men,  left  Fort  Richmond,  on  the 
Kennebec,  imder  the  guidance  of  three  Mohawk  Indians.  The  troops 
were  commanded  by  Captains  Moulton,  Harmon,  Bourne,  and  Bane. 
They  worked  their  way  up  the  Kennebec  as  far  as  Taconnet,  where 
they  left  their  boats  with  a  guard  of  forty  men,  and  the  remainder 
proceeded  up  the  river. 

Arriving  atSkowhegan,  Harmon,  with  sixty  men,  crossed  the  stream 
at  the  great  eddy,  for  the  purpose  of  cutting  off  re-enforcements  from 
other  tribes,  while  Moulton,  after  leaving  ten  men  in  Skowhegan  to 
guard  the  baggage,  proceeded  with  the  remaining  ninety-eight  to  Old 
Point.  Marching  cautiously  through  the  woods,  he  reached  the  high 
lands  overlooking  the  village  on  August  24th.  He  attacked  the  foe  at 
once,  and  the  Indians,  taken  by  surprise,  were  all  slaughtered,  the 
priest  among  them.  A  very  interesting  account  of  early  Norridge- 
wock  and  this  battle  will  be  found  in  the  second  part  of  Whittier's 
poem  of     Mogg  Megone." 

At  Norridgewock  the  road  crosses  the  Kennebec,  which  we  see  for 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


125 


the  first  time,  and  runs  up  to  Madison,  on  tlie  riglit  bank  of  the  river, 
wliere  it  crosses  again  and  continues  to  Solon,  on  the  left  side.  The 
road  runs  mostly  through  cleared  land,  across  which  you  obtain  some 
fine  views  of  the  distant  mountains  towering  up  in  the  Dead  Eiver 
Country;  but  occasionally  it  strikes  a  pretty  piece  of  forest,  and  in 
some  places  it  runs  so  near  the  river  as  almost  to  overhang  it. 

North  Anson,  a  busy  little  town,  is  built  on  both  sides  of  the  Cara- 
bassett,  a  noisy  stream,  broken  by  rapids,  which  empties  into  the  Ken- 
nebec at  this  point.  A  fine  view  of  Mount  Abraham  and  the  twin 
peaks  of  Mount  Bigelow,  that  tower  up  to  the  west,  may  be  had  from 
the  village.  The  Somerset  Hotel  furnishes  a  pleasant  stopping-place 
for  sportsmen  and  tourists;  and  one  can  procure  teams  to  drive  in  any 
direction.  Following  up  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  the  next  stop  is 
made  at  Embden,  a  small  village  now,  but  destined  to  be  larger.  A 
moment's  stop  here,  and  then  the  train  continues  to  Solon,  the  trav- 
eller obtaining  many  pretty  views  along  the  way.  From  Solon  the 
road  will  be  extended  to  Bingham  during  the  summer,  and  cars  will 
probably  be  running  to  the  latter  place  by  the  first  of  November,  leav- 
ing passengers  within  twenty-three  miles  of  the  Forks.  The  Carra- 
tunk  House  in  Solon  is  a  first-class  country  hotel,  and  has  a  good  liv- 
ery connected  with  it.  Parties  visiting  the  Rowe  Ponds  usually  start 
from  Solon.  The  Rowe  Ponds  are  situated  in  Pleasant  Ridge  Town- 
ship, all  in  close  proximity,  and  are  beautiful  sheets  of  water.  They 
are  connected  by  short  trails  of  from  three  to  five  minutes'  walk 
each. 

These  lakes  are  known  as  the  Rowe,  Brandy,  Bean,  Jewett,  and 
Clear  "Ponds."  The  "Camp,"  or  fishermen's  hotel,  is  situated  on 
the  banks  of  the  Rowe  Pond.  This  is  the  largest  of  the  group,  and  the 
trout  in  it  run  as  high  as  twenty  ounces.  Some  have  been  taken  in 
the  Bean  Pond  weighing  two  and  one-half  pounds.  The  Brandy  Pond 
(so  called  from  the  peculiar  color  of  its  water)  supplies  the  gamiest 
fish,  they  invariably  showing  vigorous  resistance  before  they  are 
landed.  This  is  the  most  beautiful  and  picturesque  sheet  of  water. 
Jewett  Pond  is  as  clear  as  crystal,  in  consequence  of  a  white  sandy 
bottom.  The  trout  in  it  are  therefore  very  wary.  Fishing  in  early 
morning  and  evening,  or  on  a  dark  cloudy  day,  is  necessary  to  accom- 
plish anything.  Clear  Pond,  curious  to  state,  has  no  trout  in  it;  at 
least,  it  is  not  known  that  a  trout  has  ever  been  taken  from  it,  but  it 
is  to  be  stocked  with  land-locked  salmon  this  season. 

From  Solon  to  the  Forks  of  the  Kennebec  is  about  thirty  miles,  and 


126 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


passengers  connect  in  the  morning  at  Solon  with  the  stage  from  Skow- 
hegan,  and  go  on.  Returning  stage  from  the  Forks  arrives  in  Solon 
in  time  for  the  morning  train  for  Oakland.  Fare  from  Oakland  to 
Solon,  $1.50;  stage  fare,  Solon  to  Bingham,  75  cents.  One  can  pro- 
cure a  team  at  reasonable  rates  to  carry  them  from  Solon  to  the  Forks 
the  same  night. 

TO  DEAD  RIVER. 

Stages  leave  Korth  Anson  daily  on  arrival  of  train,  and  reach  North 
New  Portland,  eight  miles  distant,  in  time  for  supper  at  the  Dirigo 
House,  Quint  Brothers  proprietors,  where  you  stop  over  night. 
Leaving  North  New  Portland  the  next  morning,  a  ride  of  twelve  miles 
brings  you  to  Lexington,  where  there  is  a  good  hotel.  The  stage  only 
stops  here  long  enough  to  change  the  mails.  Beyond  the  village  the 
road  enters  the  woods,  running  over  high  land,  and  thence  through  a 
wild  and  romantic  pass  in  the  mountains  to  Dead  River,  a  distance  of 
ten  miles,  arriving  at  the  Parsons  House,  S.  A.  Parsons  proprietor, 
in  time  for  dinner. 

This  hotel  is  pleasantly  situated  near  the  river,  and  has  accom- 
modations for  seventy-five  people.  The  rooms  are  well  furnished, 
and  the  table  excellent.  There  is  a  good  livery  stable  connected 
with  the  house,  and  teams  of  all  descriptions  can  be  procured. 

A  good  road  runs  through  the  woods  from  Parsons'  Hotel  to  Carry 
Pond,  four  miles  distant,  where  is  some  of  the  best  trout-fishing  in 
the  State.  All  kinds  of  wild  game  are  thick  in  this  vicinity,  includ- 
ing moose  and  bears.  Guides,  canoes,  and  provisions  can  be  ob- 
tained in  the  village,  for  camping-out  trips,  and  as  this  place  is 
off  the  beaten  track  of  sportsmen,  good  hunting  and  fishing  may  be 
found  with  but  slight  trouble,  and  within  short  distances  of  the 
village. 

A  stage  leaves  Parsons'  Hotel  three  times  a  w^eek  for  Eustis,  seven- 
teen miles  distant,  a  pretty  little  village,  having  two  good  hotels, 
situated  in  close  proximity  to  excellent  fishing  and  hunting  grounds. 

The  stage  fare  from  North  Anson  to  Dead  River  is  $2.25,  and  from 
Dead  River  to  Eustis,  $1.25. 

SECOND  ROUTE,  VIA  WATERVILLE  AND  SKOWHEGAN. 

Between  Portland  and  Waterville  one  has  choice  of  two  routes, 
the  two  trains  arriving  at  Waterville  only  five  minutes  apart.  A 
through  car  runs  from  Portland  to  Skowhegan  over  both  routes. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


127 


The  train  for  Skowliegan  leaves  Waterville  at  4.35  p.m.,  or  on  arrival 
of  the  morning  trains  from  Boston,  reaching  Skowhegan,  nineteen 
miles  distant,  at  5.15. 

Leaving  the  depot,  the  train  runs  parallel  with  the  main  line  for  a 
short  time,  and  across  it,  to  the  right,  we  catch  occasional  pleasant 
glimpses  of  the  Kennebec.  We  pass  the  large  shops  and  manufac- 
tories of  the  Maine  Central  Railroad  on  our  right,  and  shortly  after, 
as  the  train  sweeps  to  the  left,  get  an  unobstructed  view  to  the  right 
of  the  handsome  iron  bridge  spanning  the  Kennebec,  across  which  fly 
the  trains  to  Bangor  and  farther  east.  As  the  train  dashes  along,  we 
obtain  some  very  pleasing  and  picturesque  views  of  the  river,  a  mass 
of  foaming  rapids  on  our  right.  For  several  miles  we  continue  in 
sight  of  the  main  line  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  not  losing 
sight  of  it  entirely  until  after  we  pass  Fairfield.  Just  before  reaching 
the  depot  we  pass  on  the  left  the  large  framing  establishment  of  the 
Kennebec  Framing  Company,  and  shortly  after  stop  at  the  station  of 
Fairfield  on  our  left.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  Benton, 
and  a  highway  bridge  connects  the  two  towns.  There  is  a  large 
island  in  the  river  opposite  Fairfield,  a  part  of  the  town,  with  quite  a 
population.  This  is  the  southernmost  town  in  Somerset  County,  and 
was  incorporated  in  1788.  It  is  one  of  the  most  prosperous  and 
thriving  places  in  the  Kennebec  Valley.  As  the  train  starts  slowly 
northward,  you  see  a  handsome  wooden  building  surmounted  by  a 
tower,  in  which  there  is  a  large  clock.  This  is  the  new  opera-house, 
and  is  an  honor  to  the  town.  The  next  noticeable  feature  on  the 
right  is  the  large  pulp  mills  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  where  a  number 
of  tons  of  pulp  are  manufactured  each  day.  Shaking  off  the  out- 
skirts of  the  town  beyond  the  mills,  the  train  increases  its  speed,  and 
we  get  another  view  of  the  river,  the  stream  being  wider  than  below. 
A  low  wooded  islet,  long  and  narrow,  rises  a  little  above  the  surface 
of  the  water  here.  The  banks  on  both  sides  of  the  river  are  about 
an  equal  height,  the  land  sweeping  up  higher  farther  back  from  the 
water.  A  well-settled  and  prosperous  farming  country  stretches  away 
on  both  sides  of  the  river  to  Skowhegan. 

The  next  station  is  Somerset  Mills,  a  growing  and  energetic  village. 
The  larger  mills  are  on  our  right,  not  far  from  the  depot.  As  we 
rattle  onward,  along  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  occasional  curves 
give  us  many  beautiful  pictures.  The  banks  vary  from  fifteen  to  fifty 
feet  in  height.  At  Pishon's  Ferry,  we  stop  a  moment.  This  is  a 
station  in  the  midst  of  a  large  farming  country.    One  of  the  old- 


128 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


fashioned  rope  ferries,  of  which  there  are  but  few  now  left  in  !N'ew 
England,  crosses  the  river  here  for  the  benefit  of  teams  and  pedestrians. 
A  short  distance  beyond  here  we  see  another  low  island,  apparently 
of  no  earthly  use  except  to  fret  the  river.  As  we  continue  northward 
the  country  rises  fast,  and  we  pass  two  more  large  flat  islands  ;  some 
of  the  views  where  one  obtains  long  vistas  up  the  river,  as  the  train 
sweeps  around  a  curve,  are  particularly  fine.  Within  a  mile  or  two  of 
the  town  you  see  the  roofs  and  spires  of  its  buildings,  and  nearer,  on 
the  left,  the  large  brick  shoe  factory,  a  veritable  hive  of  industry. 
Here  the  speed  of  the  train  is  somewhat  slackened  before  crossing  the 
railroad  bridge,  which  spans  a  deep  gorge,  and  as  we  ride  slowly 
across  the  bridge  obtain  beautiful  views  of  the  falls  on  our  left,  and 
of  the  mass  of  foaming  rapids  sweeping  swiftly  along  the  yawning 
chasm  on  our  right.  A  few  moments  later,  the  train  pulls  up  at  the 
handsome  new  station  which  is  centrally  located  near  the  business 
part  of  the  town.  An  earlier  train  leaves  Waterville  in  the  morning, 
after  the  arrival  of  the  Portland  and  Bangor  train,  reaching  Skow- 
hegan  at  eleven  o'clock. 

The  night  train  from  Boston  connects  with  a  mixed  train  leaving 
Waterville  at  5.30  a.m.,  arriving  at  Skowhegan  at  seven  o'clock,  in 
season  to  connect  with  the  up-river  stage. 

Skowhegan  is  a  beautiful  and  thriving  town,  and  has  a  large  lum- 
bering interest.  There  are  many  pleasant  drives  in  the  vicinity,  and 
the  falls  on  the  Kennebec,  above  the  bridge,  are  one  of  the  principal 
attractions.  The  late  ex-Governor  Coburn  was  one  of  the  wealthiest 
men  in  the  place,  and  did  much  towards  building  it  up.  A  small 
steam-launch  runs  on  the  river  above  the  falls,  making  three  trips  a 
day,  each  way,  between  Skowhegan  and  Norridgewock,  five  miles. 
The  town  rejoices  in  a  first-class  hotel,  the  Hotel  Heselton,  but  a 
stone' s-throw  from  the  depot,  containing  one  hundred  nicely  furnished 
rooms,  besides  billiard-room  and  dance  hall.  A  well-supplied  table, 
with  the  best  the  market  affords,  is  one  of  the  taking  features  of  the 
establishment,  and  the  proprietor,  Mr.  F.  B.  Heselton,  has  lately  had 
the  principal  rooms  handsomely  frescoed  and  newly  furnished.  The 
house  is  heated  by  steam,  and  lighted  with  the  incandescent  electric 
lights.  The  managers  of  the  hotel,  Messrs.  W.  H.  and  E.  C.  Hesel- 
ton, spare  no  pains  to  make  the  visits  of  guests  enjoyable.  A  large 
livery  stable  is  connected  with  the  house,  and  teams  of  any  descrip- 
tion can  be  hired  at  reasonable  prices. 

From  Skowhegan  to  the  Forks  of  the  Kennebec,  forty-six  miles, 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS.  131 


there  is  an  excellent  stage  line  operated  by  E.  G.  Coffin,  who  runs 
first-class  stages  each  way,  daily,  excepting  Sunday.  He  employs  two 
excellent  and  careful  drivers,  Irving  S.  Young  and  G.  B.  Benson,  who, 
besides  being  good  whips,  are  very  agreeable  travelling  companions. 

The  stage  leaves  the  Hotel  Heselton  at  seven  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, stopping  for  dinner  at  Bingham,  and  reaching  the  Forks  at  five 
o'clock.  The  road  is  good  the  entire  distance.  The  first  three  miles 
is  up  hill,  and  by  looking  back  you  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  village 
left  behind.  Once  on  top  of  the  hill  you  will  notice  Madison  Pond, 
or  Hayden  Lake  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  in  the  town  of  Madison, 
to  the  right,  four  miles  from  Skowhegan.  This  pond  is  a  beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  covering  about  two  thousand  acres,  and  is  well  stocked 
with  several  kinds  of  trout.  Mr.  G.  B.  Fairgrieve,  of  Skowhegan, 
also  has  a  nice  camp  on  this  pond,  at  Fairgrieve  Bay,  and  keeps 
row-boats,  canoes,  and  sail-boats  to  let.  There  are  plenty  of  bass, 
pickerel,  and  perch  in  this  pond;  and  it  always  furnishes  good  sport 
to  the  fisherman.  Visitors  to  Skowhegan  will  find  a  drive  to  the 
pond  and  back  a  pleasant  way  of  spending  a  day.  Passing  through 
Madison,  this  pond  is  in  sight  for  several  miles.  Between  Madi- 
son and  Solon  you  pass  over  Robbins  Hill,  ten  miles  from  Skow- 
hegan, and  from  this  sightly  elevation  you  have  one  of  the  finest 
views  to  be  obtained  on  the  entire  route.  Mountain  after  mountain 
sweeps  upward  all  about  you,  Moxie  Mountain  being  prominent  in 
the  north.  Fifteen  miles  from  Skowhegan  you  reach  Solon  village, 
a  charming  little  i)lace,  and  her^  you  catch  sight  of  the  river,  which 
you  have  not  seen  before  since  you  started,  for  while  you  drove 
north,  the  river  made  a  bend  to  the  west.  The  stage  stops  a  few 
moments  at  the  Carratunk  House,  a  large  and  comfortable  hotel,  kept 
by  J.  H.  Gray.  Falls  Brook,  a  small,  swift  stream,  runs  through  the 
centre  of  the  village,  and  empties  into  the  Kennebec.  Carratunk 
Falls,  half  a  mile  from  the  hotel,  are  well  worth  seeing.  There  is 
good  fishing  in  this  vicinity,  and  the  village  is  a  pleasant  place  for 
people  to  pass  a  few  weeks  in  summer.  From  here  to  the  Forks  the 
Kennebec  is  in  sight  all  the  way  on  your  left,  the  road  following  it 
quite  closely.  In  the  early  summer,  when  the  logs  are  floating  down 
stream,  and  tumbling  over  the  rapids  and  falls,  followed  by  the  river- 
drivers,  some  in  bateaux  and  others  along  the  shore  on  foot,  the  pic- 
ture is  lively  and  animated. 

From  Solon  to  Bingham,  eight  miles,  the  scenery  is  very  fine; 
and,  indeed,  it  improves  with  each  mile  as  you  ascend  the  river. 


132 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


Along  tliis  distance  are  some  very  good  farms.  Reaching  Bingham, 
twenty-tliree  miles  from  Skowliegan,  the  stage  leaves  you  at  the 
Stage  House,  the  largest  of  the  two  hotels,  where  you  procure  a  good 
dinner,  for  which  you  are  well  prepared  after  your  morning's  drive. 
This  house  is  kept  by  Mr.  A.  F.  Adams,  a  wide-aw^ake  and  attentive 
landlord,  who  will  look  carefully  after  your  wants  should  you  sojourn 
with  him  for  a  while.  The  Holbrook  House  is  also  a  well-kept  hotel, 
and  offers  good  accommodations.  There  are  good  fishing  and  hunt- 
mg  in  this  vicinity,  and  guides  may  be  obtained  at  reasonable  rates. 
The  Austin  Stream,  flowing  through  this  village  to  the  Kennebec, 
is  well  stocked  with  trout. 

After  dinner  you  leave  Bingham,  w^hich,  by  the  way,  is  the  termi- 
nus of  the  telegraph  line,  behind,  and  pursue  your  journey  north- 
ward. Above  Bingham  the  hills  rapidly  attain  the  dignity  of  moun- 
tains, and  approach  nearer  to  the  river,  leaving  only  a  narrow  valley. 
A  chain  of  mountains  runs  from  Bingham  to  the  Forks,  on  either  side 
of  the  river,  and  the  stage  rattles  along  their  base,  there  being  in  many 
places  barely  room  for  the  road  between  the  river  and  mountains. 
The  river  in  this  vicinity  is  more  crooked,  and  as  the  stage  follows  its 
curves,  now  through  some  piece  of  woods,  and  then  across  "  dug-ways  " 
on  the  very  edge  of  the  bank,  beautiful  changes  in  the  landscape 
appear  every  moment.  At  some  of  these  "dug-ways''  a  wooden  ram- 
part of  logs  had  to  be  built  on  the  side  next  the  river,  before  the  road, 
narrow  as  it  is,  could  be  constructed.  An  exhilarating  feeling  of  ex- 
citement takes  possession  of  you  as  you  are  swung  around  the  first  of 
these  high  curves,  the  horses  on  the  gallop;  but  several  repetitions 
lessen  the  novelty  of  the  situation,  and  it  finally  becomes  an  old 
story. 

Four  miles  from  Bingham  village  you  pass  Baker  Mountain  on  tlie 
right.  Here  you  will  notice  some  holes  in  the  side  of  the  mountain, 
made  by  New  York  parties,  who  wasted  time  and  money  digging  here 
for  gold  in  1852.  It  is  said  they  took  out  some  quartz  that  assayed 
forty  dollars  to  the  ton;  and  parties  living  in  the  vicinity  claim  that 
the  mountain  is  rich  in  other  minerals,  if  not  in  gold.  Iron  ore  is 
plainly  to  be  seen  from  the  road. 

Eight  miles  from  Bingham  village  you  reach  the  Hunnewell  place, 
in  Moscow,  a  popular  resort  for  sportsmen,  a  short  distance  from  the 
road,  in  the  midst  of  fine  scenery.  There  is  first-rate  sporting  in  this 
vicinity,  both  with  rod  and  gun,  and  the  pi'oprietor  of  the  house  can 
furnish  guides.    He  is  also  well  acquainted  with  the  country  himself, 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


13S 


and  occasionally  takes  a  tramp  with  those  who  stop  at  his  house. 
Gold  has  been  found  in  a  small  stream  that  runs  near  the  Carney 
place;  and  this  part  of  the  State  may  one  day  be  as  well  known  to 
miners  as  the  Blue  Hill  district.  Carney's  Hotel,  well  known  to 
sportsmen  who  have  visited  this  section  of  the  State,  was  burned  in 
the  fall  of  1888,  and  has  not  yet  been  rebuilt.  Pleasant  Kidge  Ponds, 
in  Pleasant  Ridge  Township,  Carrying  Place  Ponds,  in  Carrying  Place 
Township,  and  Pleasant  Pond,  in  Carratunk,  all  great  fishing  resorts, 
are  only  a  few  miles  from  the  Hunnewell  place.  There  are  several 
camps  at  Carrying  Place  Ponds,  in  which  Mr.  G.  B.  Fairgrieve,  of 
Skowhegan,  is  interested,  and  information  in  regard  to  them  can  be 
obtained  from  him.  Mr.  Albert  French  has  a  nice  camp  at  Pleasant 
Pond,  where  sportsmen  will  find  good  accommodations.  Spotted 
bi'ook-trout  are  plenty  in  all  of  these  ponds.  A  short  distance 
above  the  hotel  site  the  driver  will  point  out  to  you,  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river,  a  level  plateau,  where  Arnold's  army  encamped 
during  the  wearisome  march  to  Canada  in  the  winter  of  1775.  One 
of  his  men  died  at  this  place,  and  was  buried  near  the  river,  a  simple 
stone  marking  the  spot.  From  here  Arnold  went  across  to  the  Carry- 
ing Place  Ponds,  which  he  crossed  to  Dead  River,  camping  there  some 
time,  and  then  proceeded  up  the  north  branch,  through  Chain  Ponds, 
into  Canada. 

Passing  through  Moscow^  the  last  incorporated  town  in  this  direc- 
tion, you  reach  the  little  village  of  Carratunk,  crossing  Pleasant  Pond 
Stream,  that  empties  into  the  Kennebec.  This  stream  is  the  outlet  of 
Pleasant  Pond,  one  of  the  prettiest  sheets  of  w^ater  in  Maine.  The 
pond,  where  there  is  a  small  settlement,  is  three  miles  from  the  river, 
and  is  reached  by  a  good  road.  It  is  nestled  in  among  high  mountains 
that  nearly  surround  it.  The  bottom  of  the  pond  is  covered  W'itli 
white  sand,  and  so  clear  and  limpid  is  the  water,  that  in  some  places, 
where  it  is  eighty  feet  deep,  you  can  see  small  pebbles  as  j^lainly  as  if 
they  were  in  the  bed  of  a  shallow  brook.  The  trout  taken  here  are  of 
a  peculiar  color,  and  very  delicate  flavor,  and  there  are  plenty  of  them. 
A  road  runs  from  the  head  of  the  pond  to  Mosquito  Pond,  four  miles 
beyond.  Mr.  Liv.  Webster  keeps  a  house  in  Carratunk  for  the  enter- 
tainment of  sportsmen  and  tourists. 

From  Carratunk  to  the  Forks  it  is  nine  miles,  the  country  growing 
wilder  as  you  proceed.  The  greater  part  of  the  way  the  road  is  dug 
from  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  sometimes  you  have  the  towering 
pines  on  one  side  of  you  and  the  rushing  river  on  the  other,  and  both 


134 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


so  near  that  you  can  almost  reach  out  with  eitlier  hand  and  touch 
them.  In  some  places  the  road  literally  overhangs  the  river,  and 
should  anything  happen  to  your  team  at  such  a  point,  you  would  be 
sure  of  a  ducking,  if  nothing  worse.  But  the  entire  distance  from 
Skowhegan  to  the  Forks  the  road-bed  is  good,  and  the  scenery  is 
delightful.  Skilful  drivers,  replete  with  good  stories,  add  to  the  pleas- 
ures of  the  drive;  and  when  you  are  set  down  at  the  Forks  Hotel,  you 
will  agree  with  me  in  saying  that  you  have  had  the  pleasantest  ride 
you  ever  took  in  your  life.  You  will  also  be  agreeably  surprised  to 
find  such  a  hotel  as  you  see  here,  way  up  in  the  w^oods.  The  house 
was  built  in  1875  by  the  late  ex-Governor  Coburn,  and  Mr.  J.  H. 
Frain  is  the  present  proprietor.  There  are  but  few  hotels  in  the  State 
that  will  surpass  it  for  size,  comfort,  and  convenience.  The  rooms  are 
large,  and  handsomely  furnished,  the  parlor  containing  a  nice  piano. 
Water  is  carried  to  each  of  the  three  flats,  and  the  house  contains 
modern  conveniences,  unlooked  for  in  such  a  place.  The  hotel  stands 
on  the  bank  of  the  East  Branch  (the  main  Kennebec),  and  in  sight 
of  the  West  Branch  (Dead  Kiver),  and  the  rooms  all  command  fine 
views.  The  two  branches  unite  a  short  distance  below  the  hotel;  and 
a  little  way  below  the  Forks  our  artist  made  the  sketch  an  engraving 
of  which  graces  the  following  page.  This  house  has  accommodations 
for  one  hundred  guests,  and  it  is  almost  useless  to  say  that  Mr.  Frain's 
table  is  unexceptionable.  During  their  season,  fish  and  game  are  served 
on  the  table  in  abundance.  The  Forks  are  the  centre  of  one  of  the 
greatest  sporting  regions  of  the  State,  and  the  scenery  in  the  vicinity 
is  charming.  Mr.  Frain  can  supply  plenty  of  guides,  at  reasonable 
prices,  who  know  the  country  thoroughly,  and  who  can  furnish  you 
with  good  sport.  Trout  have  been  taken  in  the  East  Branch,  but  a 
few  rods  from  the  hotel,  weighing  as  high  as  three  pounds. 


MOXIE  FALLS  AND  POND 

are  the  great  attractions  to  strangers  visiting  the  Forks  :  the  first, 
on  account  of  its  beauty  ;  the  second,  for  its  excellent  fishing.  A 
ride  or  walk  of  three  miles  and  you  reach  the  falls,  having  a  per- 
pendicular drop  of  ninety-five  feet.  Tliis  is  one  of  the  grandest  and 
highest  cataracts  in  the  State.  The  channel  at  the  head  of  the  falls 
is  not  over  twenty  feet  wide,  thus  increasing  the  velocity  of  the  water 
as  it  makes  its  final  phinge  over  the  ledges,  to  the  boiling  caldron 
beneath.    The  direct  fall  of  the  water  has  worn  a  deep  hole  in  the 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


137 


rock  below,  and  logs  coming  down  the  stream  disappear  from  sight 
for  several  seconds  after  leaping  the  falls.  By  changing  your  position 
from  point  to  point  a  great  variety  of  views  may  be  obtained.  This 
is  a  splendid  place  to  take  trout  at  some  seasons  of  the  year. 

Moxie  Stream,  on  which  the  falls  are  located,  empties  into  the 
East  Branch,  a  mile  or  so  above  the  hotel. 

Moxie  Pond,  four  miles  above  the  falls,  is  about  ten  miles  long 
and  a  mile  wide,  and  is  suriounded  by  a  thick  forest.  On  your  way 
to  it  you  pass  another  fall  known  as  Rankin's  Falls,  about  fifteen 
feet  high.  This  pond  is  full  of  trout,  and  a  fisherman  was  never  known 
to  leave  it  without  fish  if  he  tried  to  get  them.  At  the  dam  at  the 
outlet  of  the  pond  Frank  Heald  has  a  camp,  and  keeps  a  boat  on  the 
pond.  The  shores  of  the  pond  are  wild  and  romantic,  and  offer 
many  pretty  spots  for  camping.  A  small  stream,  known  as  Baker 
Brook,  empties  into  the  head  of  the  pond,  and  Mosquito,  Alder,  and 
Sandy  Biooks,an  the  vicinity,  furnish  gootl  fishing.  Deer  and  caribou 
haunt  the  locality,  and  blueberries  and  cranberries  are  plenty  about 
the  shores  of  the  pond.  Two  miles  below  the  outlet  there  is  a  farm, 
where  Tom  Morris  has  a  camp.  From  the  Forks  two  roads  run  to  the 
pond,  one  on  each  side  of  Moxie  Stream.  The  one  on  the  south  side 
is  the  shortest,  being  only  five  miles.  There  are  other  streams  and 
ponds  in  this  vicinity,  too  numerous  to  mention,  all  furnishing  good 
trout  fisliing,  whose  location  may  be  learned  from  the  guides. 

From  the  Forks  to  Indian  Pond  is  fifteen  miles  ;  thence  ten  miles 
to  Moosehead  Lake.  The  best  road  is  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Kennebec. 

On  the  return  trip  from  the  Forks  the  stage  reaches  Skowhegan 
in  time  to  connect  with  the  night  train  for  Boston.  Excursion  tickets 
are  now  sold  from  Boston  to  the  Forks  and  return  for  $13.00.  From 
Portland  and  return,  $10.00. 

A  stage-line  runs  from  the  Forks  to  Hilton's,  in  Sandy  Bay  Town- 
ship, a  distance  of  forty-five  miles,  where  it  connects  with  the  Canada 
stage  for  St.  Joseph,  fifty-five  miles  beyond,  where  connection  is  made 
with  the  Quebec  Central  Railway  for  Point  Levis,  opposite  Quebec. 

Between  the  Forks  and  Moose  River  village,  the  stage  runs  daily 
excepting  Sunday,  each  way.  Between  Moose  River  village  and 
Hilton's,  in  Sandy  Bay,  the  stage  runs  three  times  a  week,  leaving 
Moose  River  village  every  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  return- 
ing on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday. 

At  seven  in  the  morning  the  stage  starts  for  Moose  River,  and,  bid- 


138 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


ding  adieu  to  the  Forks  Hotel  and  its  hospitable  landlord,  you  resume 
your  journey.  Crossing  the  Kennebec,  over  a  covered  wooden  bridge, 
the  road  follows  the  east  bank  of  Dead  Kiver  for  a  mile,  and  then 
turns  sharply  to  the  right,  while  the  river  sweeps  to  the  left.  In  the 
next  ten  miles  the  road  rises  over  eleven  hundred  feet :  but  the  ascent 
is  gradual,  there  being  but  few  steep  pitches.  The  land  is  rough  and 
poor,  and  is  better  adapted  to  the  lumberman  than  farmer.  Occa- 
sionally you  obtain  good  views  of  distant  mountains,  but  the  woods 
are  so  thick  for  several  miles  that  you  do  not  obtain  many  extended 
views.  This  ride  through  the  woods  is  delightful  ;  you  see  some 
excellent  timber  along  the  road,  and  cross  several  small  streams.  Five 
miles  from  the  Forks  you  pass  a  small  hotel,  kept  by  Pat  Murphy, 
wiio  has  built  a  good  buckboard  road  into  Spencer  Ponds,  a  distance  of 
seven  miles,  and  he  has  boats  and  canoes  on  the  pond  to  let.  Just 
beyond  this  house  the  road  enters  a  forest  that  continues  unbroken 
for  the  next  ten  miles,  and  in  this  distance  you  do  not  see  a  house. 
Although  the  land  is  rising  all  the  time,  the  road  runs  up  hill  and 
down. 

Reaching  the  top  of  Johnson  Mountain  you  obtain  a  splendid  view 
of  Bald  Mountain  higher  up  on  the  left.  As  you  near  the  limit  of 
the  woods  you  will  notice  an  immense  bowlder  on  the  right  side  of  the 
road,  weighing  many  tons.  It  has  been  split  in  two,  probably  by  the 
action  of  the  frost,  leaving  a  gap  about  five  feet  wide.  It  is  said  that 
a  number  of  years  ago  a  man  in  Canada  stole  several  hundred  dollars 
in  gold,  and  fled  to  Maine  with  it.  Fearing  detection,  on  his  way 
through  these  woods  he  hid  the  money  beneath  this  rock,  intending  to 
return  when  the  excitement  had  passed,  and  recover  it.  In  the 
mean  time  he  was  taken  ill  ;  and  on  his  death-bed  told  the  story  of 
his  guilt,  and  gave  the  location  of  the  stolen  money.  Whether  this 
story  is  true,  or  false,  it  is  evident  that  some  one  has  believed  it,  as 
the  earth  has  been  dug  over  all  around  the  rock  ;  but  I  believe  the 
hidden  treasure  has  never  yet  been  discovered. 

Emerging  from  the  woods,  you  catch  sight  of  Parlin  Pond,  sixteen 
hundred  and  ten  feet  above  tide-water.  It  is  three  miles  long  and 
about  a  mile  wide,  and  is  charmingly  located,  being  surrounded  by 
high  mountains.  It  furnishes  fine  trout  fishing.  As  you  reach  the 
pond  you  will  notice  a  little  patch  of  cleared  land  on  the  left  side  of 
the  road.  An  old  man,  seventy  years  of  age,  formerly  resided  here 
summers,  spending  his  winters  at  Moose  River.  He  was  accidentally 
drowned  in  the  pond  a  few  years  ago,  while  fishing,  by  falling  out  of 
a  canoe. 


AND  KOliTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


141 


Midway  of  the  pond,  on  the  left  of  the  road,  is  a  farm,  formerly 
owned  by  A.  F.  Adams.  This  property  has  been  bought  by  Mr. 
N.  II.  Murphy,  one  of  the  most  enterprising  men  in  this  vicinity,  who 
has  built  a  new  hotel  on  the  site  of  the  old  house,  and  fitted  it  up 
in  good  shape,  for  the  entertainment  of  sportsmen  and  tourists,  and 
here  you  take  dinner.  This  is  one  of  the  prettiest  places  I  have  ever 
seen.  The  location  of  the  house  is  admirable,  and  from  the  piazza 
you  obtain  a  wide-spread  view,  for  many  miles,  of  mountain  and 
forest.  The  most  prominent  peaks  in  the  vicinity  are  Bean  Moun- 
tain and  Hurricane  Mountain  ;  the  summit  of  the  latter  honored  by  a 
fine  trout  pond.  From  the  house  to  this  pond  is  only  six  miles. 
Directly  in  front,  but  a  few  rods  from  the  hotel,  is  the  beautiful 
lakelet  before  spoken  of.  Mr.  Murphy  thinks  of  putting  a  small 
^team-launch  on  the  pond  for  the  use  of  fishermen  and  tourists  who 
stop  with  him. 

A  road  runs  from  the  dam,  at  the  foot  of  Pari  in  Pond,  down  to 
Long  Stream,  then  up  to  Long  Pond.  There  is  first-rate  trout  fishing 
at  the  dam  at  Parlin  Pond,  also  at  Long  Pond.  From  the  hotel  to 
Long  Pond  is  only  six  miles,  with  a  good  road  or  path  all  the  way. 
Besides  the  bodies  of  water  mentioned,  there  are  other  ponds  and 
streams  in  this  vicinity,  well  stocked  with  trout,  that  are  known  to 
Mr.  Murphy.  There  is  also  good  shooting  here  in  the  fall.  Guides 
may  be  hired  for  $1.50  per  day. 

The  Parlin  Pond  House  is  well  kept  by  X.  H.  Murphy,  the  present 
proprietor;  the  rooms  being  neat  and  pleasant,  and  the  table  well 
supplied.  There  are  a  bowling-alley  and  croquet-ground  near  the 
house;  also  a  livery  stable,  supplied  with  horses  and  vehicles.  Mr. 
Murphy  keeps  boats  and  canoes  on  Parlin  Pond,  and  will  carry  you 
back  and  forth  in  a  team,  if  you  do  not  wish  to  walk,  without  any 
charge;  or  if  you  want  to  fish  up  Moose  River  he  will  send  you  up  on 
liis  team,  boat  and  all.  He  is  one  of  the  most  pleasant  and  obliging 
landlords  I  have  ever  met. 

The  post-office  at  Parlin  Pond  is  in  the  hotel,  thus  making  it  very 
convenient  for  those  stopping  at  the  house. 

Leaving  the  Parlin  Pond  House  after  dinner,  the  stage  conveys  you 
to  Moose  River,  in  Holden  Plantation,  fifteen  miles  distant.  Beyond 
the  hotel  the  land  rises,  and  a  four-miles'  ride  brings  you  to  the  top 
of  a  lofty  eminence  in  Jackman-town,  known  as  Lookout  Hill, 
twenty  miles  from  the  Forks.  This  hill  is  one  of  the  prettiest  and 
most  sightly  places  on  the  road,  and  the  landscape  pictures  offered 


142 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


here  are  very  inviting.  From  this  point  tlie  road  for  several  miles  is 
up  hill  and  down,  and  then  crosses  a  mountain  known  as  Owl's  Head. 
Most  of  the  distance  is  through  the  woods.  Climbing  another  hill, 
you  leave  the  forest  behind,  and,  as  you  descend  this  last  hill,  have  a 
fine  view  of  Moose  River  Yalley  and  the  village,  also  the  long  range 
of  mountains,  fifteen  miles  away,  that  divide  Maine  from  Canada. 
The  land  at  Moose  River  is  better  than  any  you  have  seen  since  leav- 
ing Carratunk,  and  the  farmers  raise  good  crops. 

You  arrive  at  Moose  River  about  three  o'clock,  and  the  stage  leaves 
you  at  the  Colby  House,  kept  by  Mrs.  Nancy  Colby, — a  comfortable 
little  hotel,  standing  close  to  the  river,  on  the  north  bank;  or  you  can 
stop  at  the  new  hotel  in  the  village,  the  Newton  House,  kept  by  David 
C.  Pierce.  The  station  of  Jackman  on  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway 
is  only  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Moose  River  village.  If  you  wish  to 
go  beyond  Moose  River  keep  your  seat  while  the  stage  continues  on 
to  Sandy  Bay  Township,  fifteen  miles  distant,  where  you  arrive  at 
about  six  o'clock.  Here  you  stop  over  night  at  a  good  hotel  owned 
by  A.  F.  Adams,  and  kept  by  Mr.  Hilton.  The  Canada  stage  leaves 
Sandy  Bay  for  St.  Joseph,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  connect- 
ing with  the  Quebec  Central  Railway  for  Quebec  the  following  morn- 
ing; returning,  leaves  St.  Joseph,  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday 
mornings.    The  fare  is  $2.50  each  way. 

From  Hilton's,  Sandy  Bay,  to  St.  George,  Canada,  is  thirty-two 
miles.  Stage  fare,  $1.50.  At  St.  George  is  a  good  hotel,  kept  by 
Michael  Mchail,  located  near  the  gold  mines.  At  this  house  you  take 
dinner.  From  St.  George  to  St.  Joseph  is  twenty-three  miles.  Stage 
fare,  $1.00.  Stop  over  night  and  take  the  cars  of  the  Quebec  Central 
Railway  the  following  morning  for  Point  Levi,  opposite  Quebec. 
Distance,  forty-five  miles;  time,  about  three  hours;  fare,  $1.25. 

The  stage  fare  from  the  Forks  to  Parlin  Pond  is  $1.25;  to  Moose 
River,  $2.00;  to  Hilton's,  Sandy  Bay,  $2.50.  This  road  from  Skow- 
hegan  is  the  regular  travelled  highway  from  Maine  to  Canada,  and  is 
in  good  condition  the  entire  distance  to  St.  Joseph.  This  is  a  delight- 
ful trip  in  summer,  and  you  can  make  the  tour  to  Quebec  this  way, 
returning  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  in  five  or  six  days. 

MOOSE  RIVER  VILLAGE 

contains,  besides  the  two  hotels  mentioned,  two  stores,  thirty  or  forty- 
houses,  post-office,  and  custom-house,  the  latter  being  in  the  Colby 
House.     Guides,  canoes,  and  provisions  for  camping  out  may  be 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


143 


obtained  at  either  of  llie  hotels.  This  village  is  the  centre  of  a  large 
and  wide-spread  hunting  and  fishing  region,  and  it  is  a  very  desirable 
location  for  the  headquarters  of  any  sportsman  with  two  or  three 
weeks  to  spare. 

As  our  route  lies  down  the  river,  I  will  first  give  you  an  idea  of  the 
country  above.  Leaving  the  bridge,  you  paddle  up  Moose  River  for 
fifty  rods,  when  you  reach  Wood  l^ond,  five  miles  long.  Turning  to 
the  left  you  follow  its  eastern  shore  four  miles  to  the  head  of  the 
pond,  and  again  enter  the  river,  and  in  a  few  seconds  pass  under  the 
railroad  bridge.  The  inlet  is  a  fine  place  for  trout  fishing  in  May  and 
June,  and  some  trout  have  been  taken  here  weighing  five  and  six  pounds 
each.  About  a  hundred  rods  above  the  head  of  the  pond  you  come  to 
the  last  house  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  owned  by  Pat  McKenney, 
w^ho  has  a  farm  here  of  two  hundred  acres.  One  can  obtain  meals 
and  lodging  here  if  he  wishes,  also  supplies.  McKenney  also  keeps 
boats  and  canoes  to  let,  and  will  furnish  you  with  a  guide  if  you 
require  one. 

Little  Wood  and  Big  Little  Wood  Ponds  lie  west  of  Wood  Pond, 
and  are  reached  by  a  mile  and  a  half  carry  from  Wood  Pond  to  Little 
Wood.  Crossing  Little  Wood,  you  paddle  up  Wood  Stream,  a  mile 
and  a  half,  to  Big  Little  Wood,  two  miles  and  a  half  long  and  a  mile 
wide.  A  road  runs  from  the  head  of  this  pond,  near  the  shore,  for 
half  its  length,  then  swings  away  to  the  village,  and  one  can  visit  it 
on  foot  if  preferable.  There  is  good  fishing  in  all  these  ponds,  trout 
being  plenty.  From  the  head  of  Wood  Pond  you  paddle  a  mile  up 
the  river,  reaching  Attean  Pond,  about  six  miles  long.  This  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  surrounded  by  bold  and  irregular  rocky 
shores,  under  the  shadows  of  grand  old  mountains,  heavily  timbered, 
but  seared  and  furrowed  by  slides.  Much  of  the  rock  that  skirts  the 
shore  is  sand-stone,  and  this  has  been  carved  into  many  odd  shapes 
by  the  action  of  the  waves,  and  forms  an  interesting  study  for  the 
curious.  A  number  of  pretty  islands,  mostly  covered  with  pine,  dot 
the  surface  of  the  pond,  and  greatly  enhance  its  beauty.  From  its 
western  end  a  good  carry  a  mile  and  a  quarter  long  runs  to  Holeb 
Pond.  Making  this  carry  saves  twenty-eight  miles  of  up-river  work 
around  the  "bow."  Crossing  this  pond,  three  miles  long,  you  run 
down  its  outlet,  Holeb  Stream,  one  mile  to  Moose  River;  or,  if  there 
is  not  water  enough  in  the  stream  for  a  canoe,  which  is  sometimes 
the  case,  carry  across. 

Leaving  Attean  Pond,  a  paddle  of  a  mile  up  river  brings  us  to 


144 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


Attean  Rips.  There  is  good  fishing  in  these  rips,  particularly  in  the 
large  pool  at  the  foot  of  the  lower  falls.  There  is  also  good  partridge- 
shooting  on  the  tote-road  along  the  river  in  the  proper  season.  Attean 
Falls  consist  of  two  pitches,  the  upper  and  lower  falls,  with  ahout 
one  hundred  rods  of  dead  water  between  them.  There  are  two  carries; 
the  lower  one  not  more  than  fifteen  or  tw^enty  rods  long,  and  compara- 
tively smooth,  but  the  upper  one  is  rough  and  difficult,  and  four 
times  as  long.  Both  are  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river.  The  best  fish- 
ing in  the  spring  and  summer  is  at  the  foot  of  the  falls  and  on  the 
rapids;  but  in  September  is  found  at  the  head  of  the  upper  falls,  in 
the  smooth,  rapid  water  just  before  it  breaks  over  the  ledge.  Trout 
running  from  half  a  pound  to  two  pounds  are  very  plenty  here. 

Four  miles  above  we  pass  the  "Three  Streams,"  where  there  is 
good  fishing.  It  is  also  an  excellent  place  in  the  fall  for  duck  shoot- 
ing. There  is  a  clearing  here  known  as  Bradstreet's  farm.  Paddling 
up  river  a  mile  or  two  more,  with  dense  forests  on  both  sides,  brings 
us  to  Spencer  Rips,  a  single  pitch  of  about  ten  feet  over  a  pile  of 
rocks.  The  Rips  can  be  run  at  high  water,  but  if  the  water  is  low, 
the  fact  that  the  carry  is  short  is  some  consolation.  Five  miles  more 
bring  us  to  Holeb  Falls.  The  landing  is  on  the  west  side  of  Echo 
Basin,  four  or  five  rods  from  the  lower  pitch  or  rapids.  Passing  up 
the  rapids  some  fifteen  rods  in  a  northerly  direction  the  Holeb  Pool  is 
reached  ;  here  the  river  takes  a  course  at  right  angles  towards  the 
east.  Going  up  the  rapids  some  fifteen  rods  farther,  we  reach  the 
foot  of  the  main  falls,  above  which  the  river  again  runs  north. 
There  is  no  better  place  in  the  Moose  River  region  for  a  camping 
party  to  make  their  headquarters  than  Holeb  Falls.  There  is  a 
good  dry  camp-ground,  plenty  of  wood,  and  excellent  water.  Fish 
and  small  game  are  very  plenty,  and  larger  game  can  easily  be  found 
by  those  who  understand  the  science  of  hunting.  The  scenery  too  in 
this  locality  is  very  fine,  and  the  country  an  almost  unbroken  wilder- 
ness. Holeb  Falls  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  torrents  in  Maine, 
and  pours  down  over  an  almost  perpendicular  ledge  some  seventy-five 
feet,  with  the  ragged  summits  of  Holeb  Mountain  high  in  air  for  a 
background.  At  the  foot  of  the  last  pitch  of  Holeb  is  a  large  basin 
of  water,  circular  in  form,  whose  diameter  is  more  than  three  times  the 
width  of  the  river.  A  large  granite  promontory  hides  the  main  falls 
from  the  basin  and  obscures  the  roar.  This  is  remarkable  for  its  echo. 
The  best  place  to  get  it  distinctly  is  a  little  way  from  the  landing  facing 
the  mountain.   Here  one  can  stand  and  talk  to  the  "  Spirit  of  the  Hill," 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


147 


receiving  back  his  own  words  until  tired  of  hearing  them.  There  are 
two  carries  around  these  falls  ;  one  quite  short,  the  other  half  a  mile 
long,  quite  steep,  and  strewn  with  immense  granite  bowlders,  dating 
back  undoubtedly  to  the  glacial  period.  The  tote-road  that  runs  past 
the  landing  leaves  Parlin  Pond,  and  continues  up  river  to  the  North 
Branch.  Above  Holeb  Falls,  on  the  left  is  the  last  settled  clearing 
going  up.  Jim  Hall  is  the  i)resent  tenant.  From  this  point  to  the  foot 
of  Lowell  Falls,  the  stream  is  navigable  most  of  the  way,  although  the 
setting  pole  will  often  be  of  more  use  than  the  paddle.  For  a  few 
miles  above  the  falls  sunken  granite  bowlders  make  the  navigation 
somewhat  dangerous,  and  extremely  hard  on  canoes.  Two  miles 
above  Holeb  Falls  we  reach  Barrett  Brook,  and  three  more  take  us  to 
the  mouth  of  Holeb  Stream,  before  spoken  of.  Above  here  Big  Gulf 
Stream  and  Little  Gulf  Stream,  both  on  the  right,  empty  into  the 
river  before  reaching  Lowell  Falls,  which  are  about  a  mile  above  the 
latter.  Below  and  in  close  proximity  to  the  falls  is  a  large  hay 
farm.  Above  Lowell  Falls  is  Bog  Brook,  near  the  mouth  of  which  is 
another  hay  farm,  and  now  with  one  jump  we  return  to  Moose  Eiver 
village. 

Leaving  the  comfortable  hotel  at  Moose  River  bridge,  which  is 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  railroad  station,  you  paddle  down 
the  river  for  six  miles,  when  you  reach  Long  Pond.  The  river  is 
deep,  and  there  is  not  much  of  a  current.  The  banks  are  low,  and 
most  of  the  land  on  either  side  has  been  cleared  and  cultivated,  still 
you  get  many  pleasant  views  as  you  round  the  curves  of  the  river. 
As  you  paddle  out  on  the  pond  you  will  notice  two  farms  on  the  left 
shore,  that,  like  almost  everything  else  in  this  country,  formerly  be- 
longed to  the  Coburns.  Redman  lives  on  the  first,  and  Demo  on  the 
second.  Moving  down  the  lake,  you  catch  glimpses  of  wooded  moun- 
tains in  the  south.  The  shores  of  the  lake  are  pretty,  W'ooded  most 
of  the  distance,  and  offer  many  inducements  to  campers.  Long  Pond 
is  nine  miles  long,  and  from  one-fourth  of  a  mile  to  tw^o  miles  wide, 
and  contains  several  islands.  It  is  irregular  in  shape,  and  the  narrows 
almost  cut  it  in  two. 

On  your  way  down  you  pass  the  Upper  Churchill  Stream,  about  two 
miles  from  Moose  River  (inlet),  and  the  Lower  Churchill  some  three 
miles  before  reaching  the  outlet.  These  streams  empty  into  the 
pond  on  the  northern  shore.  Parlin  Stream,  the  outlet  of  Parlin 
Pond,  empties  into  Long  Pond  on  the  south  side,  about  opposite  the 
Lower  Churchill.    There  is  good  fishing  on  all  these  streams  and  in 


148 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


the  pond.  In  the  fall  of  1879,  a  large  dam  was  built  at  the  outlet  of 
Long  Pond,  raising  the  water  several  feet.  The  pond  narrows  up  at 
the  lower  end,  and  the  banks  are  high.  Several  small  islands  add 
materially  to  the  beauty  of  the  picture  looking  up  the  pond.  There  is 
good  fishing  at  the  outlet,  the  trout  being  very  nice  in  flavor,  and 
some  of  them  running  up  to  several  pounds  in  weight.  The  Canadian 
Pacific  (International  Railway  of  Maine)  follows  closely  the  southern 
shore  of  this  pond  nearly  its  entire  length,  and  there  is  a  station  called 
''Long  Pond,"  in  sight  from  the  pond.  The  road  also  follows  the 
river  down  as  far  as  Little  Brassau,  and  there  swings  off  to  the  south- 
east toward  Moosehead  Lake.  There  is  another  station  at  Misery 
Stream,  called  "  Askvvitli,"  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Brassau  Lake. 
From  the  dam  down  to  Little  Brassau  is  six  miles,  the  stream  being 
navigable  for  canoes.  You  will  have  to  carry  by  the  Rolling  Dam,  just 
below  Coburn's  hay  farm,  and  probably  around  Stony  Brook  Rapids, 
about  a  hundred  rods  long,  or  perhaps  it  might  be  easier  for  you  to  drop 
the  canoe  over  them.  A  good  tote-road  runs  from  the  outlet  of  Long 
Pond,  down  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  to  Little  Brassau  Pond,  and 
about  a  mile  beyond.  There  are  one  or  two  wet  places  on  it,  but  the 
most  of  the  distance  it  is  dry  walking.  A  good  lumberman's  camp 
near  the  Rolling  Dam  olfers  a  chance  to  stop  over  a  day  or  two  if  you 
desire.  A  small  camp  at  the  head  of  Little  Brassau  offers  shelter  for 
the  night  if  you  wish  it.  There  is  good  duck  shooting  around  this 
sheet  of  w^ater  in  the  fall.  Continuing  on  from  Little  Brassau  Pond, 
a  bulge  in  the  river,  you  passed  on  the  left,  a  mile  below,  the  mouth  of 
Tom  Fletcher  Brook,  a  good  fishing-ground,  its  name  commemorat- 
ing that  of  a  trapper  who  w^as  drowned  in  the  rapids  above,  and  who 
was  buried  near  the  mouth  of  the  brook.  It  is  also  a  favorite  camp- 
ing-ground for  those  not  afraid  of  ghosts.  Two  miles  more  bring  you 
into  Brassau  Lake,  on  the  western  side,  about  midway  of  its  length. 
It  is  good  water  from  the  pond  to  the  lake.  Brassau  Stream,  empty- 
ing into  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  Misery  Stream,  at  the  foot,  are  both 
good  trout  streams.  At  the  foot  of  the  lake  is  a  long  sand  beach 
known  as  *'  Misery  Sands."    This  lake  is  a  good  place  for  ducks. 

From  Moose  River  you  turn  to  the  right,  and  cross  the  lake  in  a 
southeasterly  direction,  and  four  miles  beyond  you  reach  the  outlet, 
near  an  old  hay  farm,  about  a  mile  from  the  foot  of  the  lake.  For  a 
mile  or  two  below  on  the  falls  you  are  always  sure  of  good  fishing, 
trout  running  from  half  a  pound  to  two  pounds,  and  of  course  occa- 
sionally a  larger  one.    From  the  lake  to  Gertrude  Island,  a  distance 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


151 


of  about  three  miles,  you  will  find  a  strong  current,  and  some  pretty 
lively  water,  there  being  rapids  about  all  the  way.  Sam's  Pitch  and 
the  Dam  are  the  worst  places,  and  unless  you  have  a  guide,  or  are  an 
experienced  canoe-man,  you  will  find  it  safer  and  more  pleasant  to 
let  your  canoe  down  with  a  rope  while  you  scramble  along  the  rocks. 
You  have  good  water  from  the  island  to  the  lake,  a  distance  of  two 
miles.  As  you  leave  Moose  River  you  will  find  shoal  water,  and  you 
should  keep  well  over  to  the  right,  then  cross  the  lake  direct,  landing 
near  three  pines,  or  follow  around  the  point  to  the  little  cove,  where, 
much  nearer  to  the  house,  is  the  steamboat  wiiarf  and  regular  land- 
ing. From  the  outlet  to  the  Mount  Kineo  House  is  two  miles,  the 
hotel  being  in  sight  from  the  mouth  of  the  river.  One  of  the  finest 
views  of  the  mountain  is  also  obtained  from  here.  If  you  reach 
the  lake  at  night  or  in  a  fog,  steer  a  due  east  course,  and  you  will 
come  out  all  right.  An  old  tote-road  runs  the  entire  distance  from 
Brassau  Lake  to  Moosehead.  It  follows  the  north  bank  of  the  river, 
beginning  near  the  outlet  of  Brassau,  and  coming  out  on  Coburn's 
hay  farm  opposite  Mount  Kineo.  The  distance  over  this  route  from 
Skowhegan  to  the  Mount  Kineo  House  is  one  hundred  and  nine  miles, 
and  from  Moose  River  village  thirty-three.  This  is  by  far  the  prettiest 
way  of  reaching  the  Mount  Kineo  House,  although  it  takes  longer 
than  by  the  all-rail  and  steamboat  routes.  There  is  no  difficulty  at 
all  in  ladies  going  over  this  route,  several  having  made  the  trip 
already,  who  were  delighted  with  it.  Although  there  are  seventy-five 
miles  of  staging,  it  is  over  one  of  the  best  and  most  picturesque 
roads  in  New  England,  and  there  is  more  of  interest  to  be  seen  on  the 
way  than  by  any  other  route,  while  a  side  trip  to  the  ponds  and  falls 
above  Moose  River  bridge  offers  fine  fishing  and  shooting  in  the 
proper  season,  and  always  beautiful  and  impressive  scenery.  The 
trip  from  Boston  to  Mount  Kineo,  via  the  Forks  of  the  Kennebec 
and  Moose  River,  can  be  made  in  three  days,  or  you  can  be  as  much 
longer  as  interest  or  pleasure  suggests.  The  time  is  not  far  distant 
when  this  will  be  one  of  the  most  popular  routes  to  the  Mount  Kineo 
House  and  Moosehead  Lake.  If  the  Somerset  Railroad  is  extended  to 
Bingham  this  summer,  which  at  this  time  seems  certain,  parties  would 
change  cars  at  Oakland,  reaching  Bingham  the  same  night,  and,  stop- 
ping there  instead  of  Skowhegan,  save  twenty-three  miles  of  the 
staging,  enabling  them  to  reach  Moose  River  village  easy  the  next 
day. 


\ 


CHAPTEE  IX. 

FROM  KINEO  TO  THE  HEAD  OF  THE  LAKE. 

TEAMER  ^^Gov.  Coburii,"  Capt. 
Charles  Robinson,  makes  regular 
trips  from  Greenville  to  the  head  of 
the  lake,  touching  at  Kineo  every 
Tuesday  and  Friday.  Charlie  has 
run  on  the  steamers  from  boyhood 
up,  and  is  perfectly  familiar  with  the 
lake  and  its  surroundings.  Pleasant, 
agreeable,  and  efficient,  it  is  a  pleasure  to  sail  with  him.  A  small 
steamer  also  makes  daily  trips  from  Mount  Kineo  to  the  head  of  the 
lake.  Leaving  the  steamboat  wharf  near  the  hotel,  we  round  the 
point,  and,  studying  the  frowning  peaks  of  Old  Kineo,  as  we  sail  along, 
suddenly  discover  a  face  in  profile,  on  the  edge  of  the  middle  cliff,  at 
once  grand  and  impressive.  There  it  stands,  as  it  has  stood  for  ages, 
outlined  sharp  against  the  sky,  bold  and  defiant,  overlooking  with 
calm  dignity  the  intrusion  of  civilization  upon  its  wild  retreat.  This 
Old  Man  of  the  Mountain  is  fully  equal  to  that  of  Franconia  or  Dix- 
ville  Xotch,  and  is  one  of  the  greatest  curiosities  that  Kineo  possesses. 
The  right  location  from  wiiich  to  see  it  is  about  half-way  between  the 
point  of  the  peninsula  on  which  the  hotel  stands,  and  the  little  beach 
where  you  land  to  ascend  the  mountain.  To  our  left  on  the  western 
shore  are  two  clearings,  where  two  men,  by  the  names  of  Caldor  and 
Thompson,  are  redeeming  farms  from  the  wilderness.  Moose  River 
empties  into  the  lake  about  opposite  Mount  Kineo,  two  miles  from  the 
hotel.  Just  above  the  river  is  the  Coburn  hay  farm.  On  our  right, 
Westerly  Point  and  Kineo  Farm  are  noticed,  and  passing  Hard  Scrab- 
ble, a  ledge  of  rock  on  the  Avestern  shore  of  Kineo,  we  enter  North 
Bay,  which  stretches  away  beyond  us  for  a  distance  of  nearly  twenty 
miles,  until  apparently  lost  in  the  forest.  So  flat  is  the  land  at  the 
North-east  Carry,  that  from  this  distance  the  trees  appear  to  rise 
directly  from  the  water.    A  nearer  approach  dispels  the  illusion. 

152 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS.  155 


Farm  Island,  on  our  left,  comprises  about  twelve  hundred  acres  of 
"wild  woodland,  and  is  owned  by  John  Eveletli  of  Greenville.  Baker 
Brook,  four  miles,  and  Tomhegan  Stream,  six  miles,  fiom  Kineo, 
empty  into  the  lake  on  the  western  side.  There  is  good  fishing  at 
the  mouth  of  Tomhegan  Stream,  and  at  several  places  above.  It  is 
navigable  for  several  miles  by  carrying  around  short  stretches  of 
rapids.  On  our  right,  five  miles  above  Kineo,  is  a  clearing  known  as 
the  Shaw  Farm.  In  this  vicinity,  also,  you  will  notice  a  mountain  to 
the  east  called  Kineo  Junior.  As  we  get  higher  up  the  lake  its  re- 
semblance to  Old  Kineo  is  very  striking.  Steaming  on,  the  boat 
passes  Socatean  Stream,  which  empties  into  a  large  bay,  on  our  left, 
eight  miles  from  Kineo.  A  short  distance  above,  Socatean  Point  makes 
into  the  lake,  and  a  couple  of  miles  beyond  Moose  Brook  enters  the 
lake.  Centre  Island  is  passed  on  our  left,  and  off  on  the  eastern  side 
of  the  lake  are  Big  and  Little  Duck  Coves.  There  is  good  fishing  in 
both  these  coves,  at  the  mouths  of  the  streams  that  empty  into  them. 
About  half-way  between  Mount  Kineo  and  the  head  of  the  lake  we 
obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  Spencer  Mountains,  one  of  the  prominent 
landmarks  to  the  eastward,  the  nearest  peak  presenting  an  almost 
perpendicular  w^all  of  barren  rock.  North  of  the  Spencers  are  Lobster 
and  Duck  Cove  Mountains.  Bald  Mountain  is  conspicuous  in  the 
west,  and  attains  a  height  of  nearly  four  thousand  feet. 

Above  Moose  Brook  the  shore  makes  a  curve,  forming  W  Point, 
and  near  this  is  W  Farm.  Beyond  here  an  arm  of  the  lake  extends 
some  distance  into  the  wilderness,  and  at  the  head  of  it  is  the  North- 
west Carry.  Marsh  Lane,  an  old  guide  and  lumberman,  and  a  well- 
known  character  around  Moosehead  Lake,  lived  here  for  many  years. 
Marsh  is  dead  —  peace  to  his  ashes!  —  and  near  where  his  cabin  used 
to  stand  Mr.  Joseph  Morris,  formerly  at  the  North-east  Carry,  has 
built  a  comfortable  two-story  house,  wiiere  good  entertainment  is 
offered  to  sportsmen,  and  also  keeps  a  team  to  haul  canoes  and  sup- 
plies across  the  carry,  which  is  a  mile  and  a  half  long. 

Carry  Brook  empties  into  the  lake  near  Morris's,  and  parties  going 
up  the  West  Branch  usually  paddle  up  the  brook  a  distance  of  three 
miles,  where  they  make  a  landing,  and  only  have  a  few  rods  to  carry 
before  striking  the  Penobscot.  Williams  Stream  enters  the  lake  just 
above  W  Farm.    Hildreth's  camp  is  near  the  mouth  of  this  stream. 

In  coming  out  from  the  North-west  Carry,  Mount  Kineo  looms 
up  to  the  southeast,  while  Kineo  Junior  is  directly  before  us,  and 
one  cannot  help  noticing  the  similarity  of  appearance  between  the 


156 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


two.  On  the  back  side  Kineo  Junior  overhangs  the  land  just  as  its 
prototype  does  the  water.  Continuing  on  our  course  we  notice  an 
island  near  the  moutli  of  the  North-west  Arm,  of  considerable  size, 
that  has  never  been  named.  We  can  now  discern  the  sand  beach  at 
the  head  of  the  lake,  and  the  long  pier  running  out  for  several  hun- 
dred yards  into  the  water,  where  the  steamer  stops.  A  few  moments 
more  and  we  arrive  at  the  North-east  Carry,  where  steamboat  navi- 
gation ceases. 

Parties  going  down  the  West  Branch  stop  here,  and  cross  the  Carry, 
which  is  two  miles  and  forty  rods  long.  The  road  is  quite  level,  rising 
gradually  from  each  end  toward  the  middle.  Mrs.  Simeon  Savage  has 
a  house  here  for  the  accommodation  of  spGu:*tsmen,  and  keeps  a  team 
to  haul  baggage  and  stores  across  to  the  river,  as  does  also  Mr.  George 
C.  Luce,  who  has  bought  the  Morris  farm.  The  charge  for  hauling  a 
canoe  across  is  $1.50. 

Years  ago  there  used  to  be  an  ox-railroad  on  this  carry,  built  by 
Major  Strickland,  a  prominent  lumber  operator  of  Bangor.  Although 
partially  destroyed  by  fire,  traces  of  it  are  still  visible,  and  in  some 
places  the  rails  and  cross-ties  still  remain  as  originally  laid  down.  A 
friend  of  the  author,  who  visited  Moosehead  when  this  railroad  was 
in  operation,  and  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for  our  engraving,  thus 
speaks  of  it:  — 

We  arrived  at  the  head  of  the  lake  at  twelve  o'clock,  noon,  having 
run  twenty  miles,  nearly,  in  a  straight  line  with  a  free  wind.  The 
water  around  the  north  shore  is  very  shallow,  and  the  bottom  is  sandy. 
Here  is  an  old  pier  built  five  hundred  feet  out  into  the  lake,  to  accom- 
modate the  steamer  in  landing  stores  for  the  lumbermen.  On  the  top 
of  this  pier  is  a  wooden  railroad,  built  of  logs,  the  top  and  outside 
being  hewn  to  guide  the  wheels.  This  road  is  two  miles  in  length, 
and  has  its  other  terminus  at  the  west  branch  of  the  Penobscot  River, 
where  there  is  a  shanty  which  is  a  depot  of  supplies  for  the  lumber- 
men, who  go  into  the  woods  in  the  fall.  The  proprietor  of  this  estab- 
lishment has  a  primitive  sort  of  a  car,  with  wooden  wheels,  with  which 
he  conveys  freight  and  passengers,  if  they  are  not  in  a  hurry.  Tlie 
motive-power  upon  this  road  consists  of  a  single  ox,  or,  as  the  con- 
ductor and  engineer  say,  '  bullgine,'  who  travels  upon  a  flooring  laid 
of  poles  upon  the  cross-ties  between  the  rails.  The  'bullgine'  is 
attached  to  the  car  by  means  of  a  yoke  and  two  poles  serving  as  shafts, 
with  hooks  at  their  ends.  The  style  of  the  depot  at  this  end  of  the 
road  will  be  understood  by  the  sketch.    A  small  part  of  the  roof  is 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


159 


covered  with  hemlock  bark,  and  the  rest  is  open  for  ventilation,  I 
suppose.  The  proportions  and  style  of  architecture  are  carefully  pre- 
served in  the  picture.'' 

Theodore  Winthrop,  who  years  ago  made  a  trip  down  the  West 
Branch  while  this  railroad  was  in  operation,  thus  discourses  of  it  in 
his  interesting  way:  — 

The  steamboat  dumped  us  and  our  canoe  on  a  wharf  at  the  lake- 
head  about  four  o'clock.  A  wharf  promised  a  settlement,  which, 
however,  did  not  exist.  There  was  population, — one  man  and  one 
great  ox.  Following  the  inland-pointing  nose  of  the  ox,  we  saw,  pene- 
trating the  forest,  a  wooden  railroad.  Ox-locomotive,  and  no  other, 
befitted  such  rails.  The  train  was  one  great  go-cart.  We  packed  our 
traps  upon  it,  roofed  them  with  our  birch,  and,  without  much  ceremony 
of  whistling,  moved  on.  As  we  started  so  did  the  steamer.  The  link 
between  us  and  the  inhabited  world  grew  more  and  more  attenuated. 
Finally  it  snapped,  and  we  were  in  the  actual  wilderness. 

am  sorry  to  chronicle  that  Iglesias  hereupon  turned  to  the  ox, 
and  said  impatiently:  — 

*''Now,  then,  bullgine!' 
Why  a  railroad,  even  a  wooden  one,  here  ?  For  this:  the  Penob- 
scot, at  this  point,  approaches  within  two  and  a  half  miles  of  Moose- 
head  Lake,  and  over  this  portage  supplies  are  taken  conveniently  for 
the  lumbermen  of  an  extensive  lumbering  country  above,  along  the 
river.  Corduroy  railroad,  ox-locomotive,  and  go-cart  train  up  in  the 
pine  woods  were  a  novelty  and  a  privilege.  Our  cloven-hoofed  engine 
did  not  whir  turbulently  along  like  a  thing  of  wheels.  Slow  and  sure 
must  the  knock-kneed  chewer  of  cuds  step  from  log  to  log.  Creak- 
ingly  the  train  followsd  him,  pausing  and  starting,  and  pausing  again 
with  groans  of  inertia.  A  very  fat  ox  was  this,  protesting  every  mo- 
ment against  his  employment,  where  speed,  his  duty,  and  sloth,  his 
nature,  kept  him  bewildered  by  their  rival  injunctions. 

"Whenever  the  engine  driver  stopped  to  pick  a  huckleberry,  the 
train,  self-braking,  stopped  also,  and  the  engine  took  in  fuel  from  the 
tall  grass  that  grew  between  the  sleepers.  It  was  the  sensation  of 
sloth  at  its  uttermost. 

Iglesias  and  I,  meanwhile,  marched  along  and  shot  the  game  of 
the  country,  namely,  one  Tetrao  Canadensis,  one  spruce-partridge, 
making  in  all  one  bird,  quite  too  pretty  to  shoot,  with  its  red  and  black 
plumage.  The  spruce-partridge  is  rather  rare  in  inhabited  Maine,  and 
is  malignantly  accused  of  being  bitter  in  flesh,  and  of  feeding  on  spruce- 


160 


GUIDE  TO  ]MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


buds  to  make  itself  distasteful.  Our  bird  we  found  sweetly  berry-fed. 
The  bitterness,  if  any,  was  that  we  had  not  a  brace. 

So,  at  last,  in  an  hour,  after  shooting  one  bird  and  swallowing  six 
million  berries,  —  for  the  railroad  was  a  shaft  into  a  mine  of  them,  — 
we  came  to  the  terminus.    The  chewer  of  cuds  was  disconnected,  and 


INDIAN  CAMP  AT  NOllTH-EAST  CAIUIY. 


plodded  off  to  his  stable.  The  go-cart  slid  down  an  inclined  plain  to 
the  river,  the  Penobscot. 

We  paid  quite  freely  for  our  brief  monopoly  of  the  railroad  to  the 
superintendent,  engineer,  stoker,  poker,  switch-tender,  brakeman, 
baggage-master,  and  every  other  official  in  one.  But  who  would 
grudge  his  tribute  to  the  enterprise  that  opened  this  narrow  vista 
through  toward  the  Hyperboreans,  and  planted  these  not  once  crum- 
bling sleepers,  and  not  once  rickety  rails,  to  save  the  passenger  a 


AND   NORTH  MAINE  WILDEKNESS. 


161 


portage  ?  Here,  at  Bullgineville,  the  pluralist  railroad  manager  bad 
his  cabin  and  clearing,  ox  engine-house,  and  \vareliouse. 

"To  balance  these  symbols  of  advance,  we  found  a  station  of  the 
rear-guard  of  another  army.  An  Indian  party  of  two  was  encamped 
on  the  bank.  The  fusty  sagamore  of  this  pair  was  lying  wounded; 
his  fusty  squaw  tended  him  tenderly,  minding  meanwhile  a  very  witch- 
like caldron  of  savory  fume.  No  skirmish  with  actual  war-whoop  and 
sheen  of  real  scalping-knife  had  put  this  prostrate  chieftain  hors  de 
combat.  He  had  shot  himself  cruelly  by  accident.  So  he  informed 
us  feebly,  in  a  muddy,  guttural  i^atois  of  Canadian  French.  This 
aboriginal  meeting  was  of  great  value;  it  helped  to  eliminate  the 
railroad." 

On  one  of  our  trips  across  the  North-east  Carry  we  came  across  an 
Indian  camp,  whose  members  were  at  the  lake  for  the  purpose  of  sell- 
ing baskets  and  canoes  of  their  own  manufacture.  The  leader  of  the 
party  showed  me  a  picture  of  their  camp,  which  had  been  made  for 
him  by  a  photographer  several  days  before,  and  when  I  told  him  that 
I  would  take  one  of  the  pictures  home  and  have  it  published  in  a 
book,  he  seemed  highly  pleased. 


CHAPTEE  X. 


CAMPING  OUT. 


EOPLE  who  do  not  object  to  roughing 
it  a  little,  and  who  w^ould  like  to  see  the 
real  inside,  as  it  were,  of  woods  life, 
should  obtain  a  guide  and  the  necessary 
outfit,  and  visit  some  of  the  lakes  beyond 
Moosehead,  indulging  in  a  couple  of 
weeks'  camping.  A  person  who  has  tried  it 
thus  gives  his  experience:  The  scene  from 
camp  that  night  was  beautiful.  The  wooded 
western  slope  of  Kineo  stood  out  in  wonderful 
strength  and  color.  The  mottled  sky  reflected 
the  sunlight  upon  the  distant  foliage  with  ex- 
quisite softness.  The  lake  was  smooth  like  a 
mirror,  and  the  islands  seemed  like  enchanted  land.  The  fish  leaped 
from  the  water  as  if  to  express  their  delight.  The  ripples  glistened  in 
the  lessening  light,  and  the  shifting  clouds  every  moment  changed 
shape  and  color.  The  distant  mountains  took  the  departing  rays  with 
a  kind  of  grand  repose.  The  semi-human  cry  of  the  loons  broke  the 
universal  stillness  and  solitude  of  the  hour.  It  seemed  a  time  when 
Nature  and  God  could  most  fitly  hold  communion  together.  The  scene 
w^as  changed  with  the  dawn  of  another  day.  Long  before  sunrise  I 
looked  out  upon  the  lake  and  sky.  The  artist  had  preceded  me,  and 
rose  at  two  o'clock  to  watch  the  auroral  display.  The  coming  on  of 
day  was  an  event  by  itself.  Dark  and  stern,  the  distant  hills  were 
outlined  against  the  reddening  sky.  The  rising  mist  just  touched  the 
tranquil  lake,  and  the  chill  of  morning  was  visible  in  your  breath. 
Not  a  leaf  stirred;  not  a  sound  came  from  the  forest.  Nature  was  in 
silent  prayer  to  her  Maker.  The  delightfulness  of  the  scene  grew 
every  moment.    Dark  recesses  were  visible  on  the  wooded  hill-sides, 


AND  NORTH  MAESTE  WILDERNESS.  163 


and  the  foliage  showed  light  and  shade.  The  forest  seemed  to 
be  waking  up.  The  fish  again  leaped  fr«>m  the  surface  of  the 
lake. 

Shoots  of  light  started  out  from  the  mountain's  edge.  The 
changes  were  quicker  and  brighter.  The  magician's  hand  was  visibly 
shifting  the  scene.  The  mountains  glowed  with  golden  light.  The 
ruddy  beams  shot  across  to  the  western  hills,  and  peak  answered  greet- 
ing to  peak.  The  great  orb  of  day  lifted  up  his  disk  above  the  moun- 
tain's edge,  and  poured  his  glory  into  the  darkness  across  the  lake 
and  into  the  forest,  until  the  water  itself  became  the  mirror  of  the 
day,  and  the  darkness  fled  in  silent  retreat  through  the  forest.  One 
could  not  help  thinking  of  those  words  which  expressed  this  glory 
under  other  scenes  in  the  beginning  of  the  world:  *  And  the  evening 
and  the  morning  were  the  first  day.' 

*'The  forest  itself  has  a  charm  which  grows  upon  you.  Here  are 
the  grand  old  primitive  forests  of  New  England;  but  if  you  think  to 
see  sentinels  which  have  been  standing  for  many  centuries,  and  which 
seem  to  have  come  down  from  an  ancient  and  honorable  past,  you  will 
be  disappointed.  The  lumberman's  axe  has  searched  out  the  largest 
and  best  trees,  far  inland  from  every  stream  and  pond,  through  the 
entire  Maine  forest,  and  the  big  trees  of  other  days  are  now  as  rare 
as  the  moose  which  once  stood  proudly  beside  them.  In  places- 
where  you  would  like  to  feel  that  no  one  has  been  before  you,  you  will 
presently  find  some  mark  that  man  has  preceded  you  and  cut  down  a 
tree,  or  killed  a  moose,  or  made  a  camp.  There  is  an  impression,  too, 
that  trees  simply  grow  old  and  do  not  die,  and  many  expect  to  find 
them  vigorous  in  a  green  old  age.  This  is  a  mistake.  You  cannot  go 
a  rod  into  the  forest  from  the  edge  of  the  lake,  in  any  place  but  the 
very  few  clearings,  without  treading  upon  the  moss-buried  shapes  of 
venerable  spruce  and  pines,  or  climbing  over  the  huge  forms  which 
are  waiting  the  gentle  process  of  decay;  and  the  very  soil  beneath 
your  feet  is  the  departed  life  of  fallen  trees.  It  is  a  strange,  unusual 
feeling  to  thus  walk  amidst  life  and  death  through  the  forest.  It  is 
like  life,  only  you  don't  see  a  grave  at  every  step,  or  find  life  so  often 
locked  hand  in  hand  with  death.  The  silence,  the  solitude,  the  sense 
of  your  own  individual  existence,  come  over  you  wonderfully;  you 
grow  conscious  almost  of  your  own  shadow.  The  birds  which  in  our 
common  woods  fly  from  branch  to  branch  and  make  the  trees  vocal 
with  their  songs  do  not  penetrate  these  wilds.  You  may  see  a  heron 
or  an  eagle,  the  woodpecker,  the  kingfisher,  and  the  hawk,  but  the 


161 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


domestic  birds  all  prefer  to  keep  closer  to  the  habitation  of  man. 
The  few  voices  which  you  hear  are  foreign,  and  communicate  insen- 
sibly the  feeling  of  wildness  and  isolation  which,  hour  by  hour,  in  a 
recess  of  the  forest  a  mile  from  shore,  grows  to  be  almost  painful. 
To  spend  a  few  days  here  alone  seems  like  living  a  month.  The  ac- 
companiments of  life  are  removed,  and  selfishness,  ambition,  and  care 
have  here  no  place ;  a  man  is  most  truly  thrown  upon  his  own  re- 
sources. To  be  alone  with  nature,  without  book,  without  w^ork, 
without  care,  without  the  slightest  hindrance  to  wandering  at  your 
own  sweet  will,  with  a  heart  which  beats  '  true  to  the  kindred  points 
of  heaven  and  home,'  and  to  be  for  this  purpose  in  the  very  heart  of 
the  Moosehead  forests,  is  more  than  all  the  trout  fishing,  and  almost 
the  rival  of  the  matchless  views  which  meet  the  eye. 

These  experiences  in  their  fulness  can  only  be  obtained  by  camp- 
ing out.  Pitching  your  tent  in  the  wilderness  is  the  favorite  way  of 
spending  vacation  among  younger  men;  and  anywhere  from  fifty  to  a 
hundred  persons  may  be  found  any  day  from  July  to  October  encamped 
here  and  there  around  this  magnificent  lake.  They  come  in  parties  of 
four  and  six  and  eight,  bringing  their  equipments  and  boarding  them- 
selves, as  often  encamping  without  guides  as  with  them.  The  fun  of 
these  outdoor  experiences  is  innnense.  The  cooking  is  of  a  rare  sort: 
pork  and  potatoes  and  hard-tack,  and  fish  if  you  can  catch  them.  If 
the  appetite  were  not  sharpened  by  exercise  in  the  fi-esh,  clear  air, 
nothing  would  be  eaten,  the  cooking  by  men,  unless  they  are  profes- 
sionals, being  anything  but  congenial  to  the  stomach;  yet  the  zest  of 
the  thing,  the  attempt  to  take  care  of  one's  self,  the  hearty  effort  at 
good-nature,  which  alone  can  keep  such  a  company  in  good  spirits, 
overcome  everything,  and  the  ndsine  is  made  the  best  of. 

"  It  takes  a  good  guide  to  give  camping-out  a  genuine  flavor.  You 
can  pitch  a  canvas  tent  without  trouble,  but  the  backwoodsman  makes 
his  tent  for  the  place  where  he  stops,  and  cuts  his  garment  according 
to  the  cloth.  Our  party  of  six  —  an  artist,  a  doctor,  an  ex-minister, 
two  boys  and  a  priest  —  engaged  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  charac- 
teristic guides  for  our  camping-out.  The  splendid  steamer  '  Govern- 
or Coburn,'  on  her  trip  to  the  lake,  left  us  at  the  North-west  Carry, 
in  the  midst  of  a  shower,  to  take  care  of  ourselves.  We  could  stay 
at  Marsh  Lane's  cabin,  which  offered  fair  accommodations,  or  camp 
out.  We  chose  the  woods.  The  guide.  Skipper  Sam,  had  pitched  his 
tent  and  made  his  bed  with  the  wild  beasts  often  before.  He  and  his 
stout  wife,  in  the  early  part  of  their  fifty  years'  sojourn  at  the  lake, 


OAMP  AT  HEAD  OF  LAKE. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


167 


had  made  extensive  journeys  through  Northern  Maine  in  search  of 
gold,  and  knew  all  about  the  woods.  The  skipper  chose  the  Gothic 
form  of  architecture  in  the  construction  of  our  camp,  and  began  the 
tent,  as  Agassiz  used  to  draw  pictures  of  fishes,  from  an  existing  ideal 
in  his  own  mind.  Three  forked  sticks  were  speedily  driven  into  the 
ground,  and  a  pole  was  laid  in  the  forks :  this  was  the  upper  edge. 
The  bateau  sail  covered  one  side;  the  bark  of  hemlock  trees,  peeled 
off  in  large  sheets  and  lapped,  sheathed  the  other;  the  ends  were  left 
open  for  ventilation;  spruce  and  fir  boughs  were  arranged  on  the 
ground  for  our  bed ;  bark  was  stretched  across  the  ridge-pole  to  keep 
out  the  impending  rain;  a  big  fire  was  made  outside;  our  kettles  and 
pans  and  accoutrements  were  hung  up  on  the  broken  limbs  of  the 
nearest  trees;  and,  as  darkness  walled  us  in,  our  humble  home,  in 
cheerfulness,  in  simplicity,  in  adaptation  of  means  to  ends,  was  very 
like  a  Scotch  kitchen. 

*' Supper  that  night  was  not  a  distinguished  meal.  We  roasted 
a  few  trout,  holding  them  by  wooden  spits  over  the  fire,  and  hard- 
tack and  tea  completed  the  humble  fare.  It  w^as  served  on  a  big 
log,  the  party  sitting  around  on  stumps  and  rocks,  hungiy  and  thank- 
ful. The  lake  was  at  once  well  and  wash-basin.  The  skipper  cleansed 
his  dishes  with  Indian's  soap  —  rubbing  them  in  the  sand.  The  first 
night  of  camping-out  is  like  the  day  of  one's  marriage  :  you  are  on 
your  best  behavior.  The  only  light  was  the  camp-fire.  A  quiet  smoke, 
a  few  yarns,  a  good  toasting  of  one's  several  sides  as  one  shifted  from 
one  seat  to  another,  and  we  turned  in  for  the  night.  The  artist,  true 
to  his  instinct,  had  camped  out  on  the  Saranac  lakes  for  his  wedding- 
tour,  and  turned  in  with  a  familiar  air,  as  if  it  were  pleasure.  It  was 
my  lot  to  lie  next  to  the  wilderness  ;  my  pillow  was  a  bag  of  potatoes. 
Rolling  myself  up  in  an  army  blanket,  I  lay  down  to  sleep  ;  but  sleep 
fled  before  anxious  fears.  What  if  a  bear  should  come  down  from 
yonder  mountain,  and  just  bite  my  leg  off  for  his  supper  ?  What  if 
some  of  the  lesser  fry  should  try  their  hand  on  me  —  squirrels  search 
my  pockets,  wood-mice  crawl  into  my  boots  and  vary  my  slumbers 
with  a  new  sensation  ?  There  is  a  time  when  every  man  is  a  coward, 
and  my  time  had  come.  Like  many  a  coward,  however,  I  said  noth- 
ing, and  soon  lost  myself  in  sleep.  Slumber  is  sweet  out  in  these 
pine  and  spruce  forests.  The  aroma  of  the  trees  fills  the  air  ;  the 
silence  is  profound  ;  the  wild  game  is  harmless  ;  the  security  is  com- 
plete ;  and  nothing  but  a  man's  own  sins  need  keep  him  awake.  And 
just  here  is  the  tonic  of  the  woods.    Your  life  is  completely  changed  ; 


168 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


your  thoughts  are  taken  up  with  things  about  you  ;  your  observing 
faculties  are  exercised  within  a  small  but  fresh  range  ;  you  have  to 
learn,  if  the  lesson  is  new,  to  be  a  good  fellow  ;  and  so  camping-out 
becomes  a  quick  test  of  character,  no  less  than  a  wonderful  renewing 
power  for  a  worn-out  man. 

It  was  a  study  to  see  how  each  man  in  the  party  took  to  his  own 
special  liking. 

The  boys  were  fast  for  hunting,  and  brought  in  hawks,  partridges, 
and  squirrels.  The  artist  had  a  general  disposition  to  enjoy  himself, 
and  didn't  fish,  didn't  hunt,  didn't  tell  stories  ;  but  he  was  thoroughly 
genial,  and  we  all  liked  him.  The  doctor  talked  ^  shop '  a  little,  and 
theology  more,  and  told  stories,  and  developed  a  character  of  growing 
interest  each  day.  The  ex-minister  had  a  solemn  way  about  him 
which  was  very  impressive.  He  was  great  with  the  rod,  and  supplied 
the  table  with  trout.  The  priest  had  a  passion  for  paddling  a  canoe, 
for  entering  into  various  experiences,  and  for  finding  out  everything. 
He  could  tell  stories,  but  didn't  fish  or  shoot ;  was,  in  fact,  resting 
from  his  parish  cares,  and  glad  to  be  much  alone.  He  and  the  artist 
took  rambles  into  the  thicket,  and  had  much  in  common.  Skipper 
Sam,  a  genuine  character,  made  great  fun.  Clad  in  homespun,  the 
stub  of  a  pipe  in  his  mouth,  his  ancient  felt  hat  half  concealing  his 
hair,  now  sprinkled  with  gray,  his  eyes  under  the  grim  brows  twink- 
ling with  humor,  he  liked  nothing  better  than  to  sit  by  the  hour 
together,  taking  a  puff  from  his  pipe,  and  spitting  at  the  fire,  amidst 
his  wonderful  yarns.  You  could  set  him  a-going  as  you  do  a  clock, 
and  he  was  always  ready  for  a  little  bigger  story  than  the  one  last 
told. 

^*  The  climax  of  our  camping-out  was  reached  one  evening  at 
Marsh  Lane's.  We  had  broken  camp  and  gone  over  to  old  Marsh's  to 
spend  the  night,  taking  our  supper  at  his  cabin.  The  night  was  clear, 
and  the  stars  shone  brightly.  Marsh's  log  cabin  is  the  rudest  possi- 
ble specimen  of  the  backwoods  hotel,  and,  being  at  the  Carry  which 
strikes  the  old  Canada  road,  and  the  last  house  before  you  reach  the 
northwest  boundary  line  of  the  State,  takes  the  men  who  come  and 
go  both  ways.  Captain  Smart,  of  the  West  Branch  drive,  was  wait- 
ing to  enter  the  interior  with  a  party  prospecting  for  lumber,  and  the 
party  had  come  up  from  Kineo  in  a  canoe  just  before  sunset,  and 
encamped  on  the  further  side  of  the  bay.  Skipper  Sam  built  of  drift- 
wood and  broken  stumps  a  famous  fire  upon  the  beach,  and  our  own 
party  sat  down  on  seats  which  nature  had  provided,  to  wear  away  the 


liAJSDIJSG  THE  OANOES. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


171 


hours  till  the  time  for  turning  in.  Every  man  looked  rougher  than 
his  wont  in  the  red  light,  Skipper  Sam  the  roughest  of  all.  We  had 
lighted  our  pipes,  had  extemporized  comfortable  seats,  and  were 
warming  up  for  good  talking,  when  the  dip  of  paddles  announced  the 
arrival  of  the  exploring  party  from  the  other  side,  — two  Boston  men 
interested  in  lumber,  with  the  elder  Masterman,  a  famous  hunter,  as 
their  guide.  Marsh  Lane,  a  six-footer,  slightly  bent  with  years,  a  grim 
old  man,  a  settler  of  thirty-five  years  ago,  well  known  as  a  capital 
guide  and  hunter,  presently  straggled  in,  smoking  his  pipe,  silent, 
moody,  with  his  dog  behind  him.  His  cook,  a  queer  specimen  of 
humanity,  dragged  himself  along  in  the  rear, — a  man  who  works 
hard  for  his  board  and  clothes,  and  is  too  shiftless  to  do  better.  It 
was  one  of  those  rare  gatherings  where  every  man  is  unlike  his  fellow, 
and  each  was  anxious  to  have  his  own  say.  Skipper  Sam  was  in  his 
element.  He  piled  the  fagots  upon  the  fire  till  the  flames  shot  up  high 
into  the  air  and  glared  out  upon  the  darkness  of  the  lake.  He  was 
allowed  to  be  the  master  of  ceremonies,  and  his  own  doings  and  say- 
ings were  the  chief  entertainment  of  the  evening.  Conversation  and 
story-telling  had  become  quite  brisk  before  our  visitors  came,  and  were 
more  brisk  afterward.  The  topics,  as  was  natural,  were  chiefly  hunt- 
ing and  fishing,  and  the  adventures  which  grow  out  of  life  in  the 
woods  ;  and  the  two  guides,  stimulated  by  the  attentive  listeners,  soon 
began  a  race  to  see  w^hicli  could  tell  the  biggest  story.  It  was  first 
trout  fishing,  then  moose  hunting,  then  bear  hunting;  then  the  habits 
•of  the  moose  were  discussed.  Questions  increased  the  number  and 
rapidity  of  the  stories  of  personal  adventure.  Old  Marsh  Lane  puffed 
away  at  his  pipe,  discharging  tobacco-juice  furiously  at  the  end  of  a 
long  story,  attentive,  not  dropping  even  a  word.  Skipper  Sam  walked 
up  and  down  the  narrow  beach,  too  excited  to  sit  dow^n.  Neither 
guide  could  wait  till  the  other  had  finished  his  story  before  he  began 
one  of  his  own,  and  each,  by  gesticulation  and  raising  of  his  voice, 
tried  to  gain  exclusive  attention.  Personal  adventures  from  the  lips 
of  one  who  had  killed  two  hundred  bears,  told  in  the  picturesque 
and  earnest  manner  which  takes  hold  of  your  imagination,  made  the 
stories  of  Masterman  intensely  interesting;  and  if  the  skipper  told 
whoppers,  it  was  a  pardonable  offence  in  one  who  could  not  bear  to  be 
outdone. 

Thus  these  naturally  silent  men  of  the  woods  kept  our  whole 
party  on  the  qui  vive  till  a  late  hour  over  their  simple  and  thrilling 
narratives.    Suddenly  the  talk  ended.    It  was  good-night  all  around. 


172  GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE. 

Kough  forms  retreated  into  the  darkness,  a  canoe  touched  the  lake, 
the  dip  of  the  paddles  soon  died  away  in  the  distance,  and  one  after 
another  our  own  party  disappeared  into  the  cabin,  each  rolling  him- 
self up  in  a  blanket  for  the  night,  leaving  the  ex-minister  and  the 
priest  to  keep  the  fire,  and  watch  for  the  expected  steamer,  if  she 
should  come  in  the  night.  Even  they  finally  searched  in  vain  for 
the  soft  side  of  a  bed  of  rocks,  and  sought  shelter  in  the  camp.  The 
morning  disclosed  six  strange  shapes  in  as  many  different  directions 
embedded  in  the  straw,  and  the  guide  stoutly  insisted  that  he  had 
slept  soundly  under  his  canoe  on  the  rocks.  With  the  morning  came 
the  steamer,  and  after  a  breakfast,  to  which  we  did  ample  justice,  we 
went  on  board.  Thus  ended  our  camping-out.  We  w^ere  glad  to  have 
it  begin,  and  more  glad  to  have  it  end,  and  to  return  to  civilized 
life." 


CHAPTEE  XL 

THE  HEAD  OF  THE  LAKE  AND  ITS  SURROUNDINGS.— 
WHERE  TO  GO.  — WHAT  TO  SEE.  — FISHING, 
HUNTING,  ETC. 

HEN  you  visit  the  North-east  Carry  you  will  find  a 
good  hotel  worthy  your  patronage.  In  August, 
1878,  Mr.  Simeon  Savage,  for  several  years  one 
of  the  proprietors  of  the  Lake  House,  Greenville, 
bought  the  Carry  House  at  the  head  of  the  lake, 
formerly  kept  by  John  Koss,  also  the  land  con- 
nected with  the  house,  comprising  about  six  hundred  acres.  A 
marked  change  immediately  took  place  in  the  management  of  the 
hotel,  particular  attention  being  paid  to  the  furnishing  of  the  rooms 
and  table.  Good  beds,  clean  and  well-furnished  rooms,  and  a  care- 
fully served  table,  are  now  offered  to  the  lake  travel.  Mrs.  Savage, 
with  her  former  experience  in  the  largest  hotel  in  Greenville,  manages 
the  housekeeping  admirably.  Mr.  Savage  diu'ing  his  life  made  many 
improvements  with  such  satisfactory  results  that  the  Winnegarnock 
House  is  now  one  of  the  most  desirable  stopping-places  in  the  entire 
Moosehead  Lake  region.  Since  the  house  came  into  his  possession 
the  dining-room  has  been  enlarged  to  double  its  former  capacity,  and 
several  more  rooms  have  been  finished,  making  in  all  fourteen  sleep- 
ing-rooms, with  good  accommodations  for  twenty  to  twenty-five  guests. 
The  hotel  is  a  two-story-and-a-half  building,  with  piazza  in  front,  and 
office,  dining-room,  jDarlor,  etc.,  on  the  ground  floor;  all  the  sleeping- 
rooms  are  above. 

The  grounds  around  the  house  have  been  cleared  of  the  debris  that 
formerly  littered  the  premises,  and  present  a  tidy  and  attractive  appear- 
ance, to  which  they  had  long  been  strangers.  The  hotel  stands  at  the 
head  of  the  lake,  on  the  east  side  of  the  carry  road,  near  the  steam- 
boat wharf,  and  a  few  rods  from  a  beautiful  sand  beach,  three  miles 

173 


174 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


in*extent,  offering  as  good  facilities  as  the  sea-shore  for  riding,  walk- 
ing, and  bathing.  A  short  distance  from  the  hotel  a  bathhouse  has 
been  erected  over  a  large  ledge  on  the  beach  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  guests. 

The  views  from  the  piazza  of  the  Wmnegarnock  are  equal  to  any 
about  the  lake.  Commencing  on  the  left,  the  eye  rests  upon  range 
after  range  of  mountains,  that,  upheaved  against  the  sky,  sweep 
around  in  a  semicircle  nearly  to  the  extreme  right  of  the  hotel. 
Lobster  Mountain,  the  Spencer  Mountains,  Kineo  Junior,  Mount 
Kineo,  Blue  Kidge,  Squaw  Mountain,  the  Misery  Mountains,  Bald 
Mountain,  the  twin  Bigelows,  and  numerous  others,  all  lend  their  aid 
to  form  a  picture  of  unsurpassed  loveliness. 

Sitting  upon  the  piazza  of  the  hotel,  while  a  heavy  south  wind  is 
blowing,  and  watching  the  white-capped  waves  as  they  roll  over  and 
over,  finally  to  dash  themselves  amid  a  mass  of  snowy  foam  on  the 
hard,  sandy  beach,  with  a  roar  like  distant  thunder,  you  can  easily 
imagine  yourself  at  the  sea-coast,  and  the  waste  of  water  before  you  a 
part  of  old  ocean. 

At  the  farther  end  of  the  sand  beach,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
house,  is  a  long  strip  of  pebbly  beach,  where  one  can  find  pretty 
pebbles  of  all  sizes  and  colors.  Along  the  beach,  for  several  hundred 
yards  from  the  shore,  the  water  is  quite  shoal,  furnishing  an  excellent 
chance  for  ladies  unaccustomed  to  a  canoe  to  master  the  art  of  paddling, 
with  no  greater  danger  to  fear  than  a  ducking,  if  the  canoe  should 
happen  to  upset,  as  it  probably  will. 

From  the  front  of  the  hotel  an  unbroken  view  of  the  lake  is  obtained 
for  over  twenty  miles.  Behind  it  a  dense  forest  extends  nearly  to  the 
Penobscot.  Through  this  the  carry  road  penetrates  to  the  river,  like 
a  canon  through  a  mountain.  In  coming  up  the  lake  this  road  is 
visible  soon  after  passing  Kineo,  a  cut  or  notch  in  the  woods  giving 
its  location. 

A  croquet-ground  and  bowling-alley  furnish  healthy  and  pleasant 
amusement  for  the  guests  of  the  house,  and  row-boats  and  canoes  are 
kept  on  the  lake  for  fishing  and  excursions ;  also  on  the  West  Branch 
at  the  end  of  the  carry  road,  at  the  head  of  Seboomook  Falls,  and  at 
Lobster  Lake. 

A  short  distance  from  the  hotel  blueberries  grow  in  unlimited  num- 
bers, and  hundreds  of  people  flock  to  the  head  of  the  lake  during  the 
season  to  gather  them.  Two  hundred  bushels  have  gone  down  on  the 
steamer  on  one  trip,  which  gives  one  something  of  an  idea  of  the  num- 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS.  177 


ber  picked.  Raspberries  and  wild  strawberries  are  also  very  plenty  in 
the  vicinity. 

A  person  stopping  at  the  Winnegarnock  House  has  almost  an  un- 
limited number  of  excursions  to  choose  from.  You  can  visit  Norcross 
Brook,  Williams  Stream,  Duck  Cove,  the  Nortli-west  Carry,  and  vari- 
ous other  places  on  the  lake,  and  take  from  half  a  day  to  two  or  three 
days  in  making  the  excursion,  as  yoar  time  or  inclination  will  allow. 
Two  miles  down  the  lake  you  obtain  the  best  view  of  Mount  Ktaadn 
to  be  had  anywhere  around  Moosehead. 

For  river  excursions  you  may  visit  Seboomook  Falls,  Russell  Stream, 
Elm  Stream,  the  Moosehorn,  or  Lobster  Lake;  any  of  these  can  be 
done  in  a  day,  but  your  pleasure  will  be  increased  if  you  can  take 
more  time,  and  camp  out  a  night  or  two.  And,  by  the  way,  the  cream 
of  camping-out  is  all  in  the  first  tliree  days. 

For  longer  trips  that  will  necessitate  camping-out  or  stopping  at 
some  farmhouse,  you  can  go  up  the  West  Branch  to  Nelhudus,  or  be- 
yond, or  down  the  river  to  Chesuncook,  Ripogenus,  Mount  Ktaadn, 
Chamberlain  Lake,  Caucomgomoc,  and  other  places  as  your  fancy  or 
pleasure  may  dictate. 

LOBSTER  LAKE 

Is  visited  by  a  great  many  people  each  summer,  and  is  one  of  the 
prettiest  sheets  of  water  in  Maine.  Leaving  the  Winnegarnock  House 
you  cross  the  carry,  and  paddle  down  the  West  Branch  for  two  miles 
to  Lobster  Stream,  that  enters  the  river  from  the  right.  A  rocky  bar 
extends  across  the  mouth  of  the  stream,  making  shoal  w^ater  for  a 
short  distance.  There  is  a  small  island  in  the  Penobscot,  opposite  the 
mouth  of  the  Lobster.  Our  way  lies  up  the  latter,  and  we  follow  it  to 
the  lake,  a  distance  of  two  miles.  The  banks  are  muddy,  and  from 
four  to  six  feet  high.  For  the  first  mile  on  each  side  of  the  stream 
there  is  a  heavy  growth,  consisting  of  poplars,  white  birch,  fir,  spruce, 
elms,  and  alders ;  the  next  half-mile  there  is  only  a  belt  of  trees  skirt- 
ing the  stream,  with  bogs  and  swamps  behind.  As  you  begin  the  last 
half-mile  the  most  of  the  trees  disappear,  leaving  only  a  few  alder 
bushes,  an  occasional  elm,  and  coarse  grass.  The  river  is  deep,  and 
rather  crooked.  About  half-way  between  the  Penobscot  and  the  lake, 
an  abrupt  turn  in  the  river  discloses  Lobster  Mountain,  looming  up 
directly  in  front  of  you,  a  round-topped  peak,  thickly  wooded  to  its 
summit,  the  foliage  dark  green.  A  little  farther  on  you  catch  a 
glimpse  of  the  Spencer  Mountains. 


178 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


The  windings  of  the  river  hide  the  lake  until  you  are  close  to  it,  and 
when  you  reach  it  the  first  exclamation  is  one  of  delight;  hemmed  in 
on  three  sides  by  mountains,  on  the  fourth  bordered  by  meadow  and 
hill.  There  are  a  great  many  sand  beaches  around  the  lake,  and  these 
are  divided  from  each  other,  at  irregular  intervals,  by  bold,  rocky 
headlands,  that  produce  a  very  picturesque  effect.  There  are  several 
islands  in  the  lake;  none,  however,  very  large.  The  growth  around  the 
shores  consists  of  fir,  spruce,  poplar,  white  birch,  ISTorway  pine,  etc. 

Some  of  the  rocky  ledges  dividing  the  sand  beaches  are  a  great 
curiosity.  They  appear  to  be  composed  of  layers  of  stone  similar  to 
slate;  near  the  water  they  are  furrowed,  and  worn  full  of  holes,  look- 
ing as  if  a  huge  cable  chain  had  been  laid  out  in  regular  rows  upon 
the  beach.  I  thought  at  first  that  these  holes  w^ere  caused  by  the 
motion  of  the  water;  but  it  cannot  be,  from  the  fact  that  the  same 
ledges  twenty  and  thirty  feet  above  the  lake  are  bored  with  similar 
holes,  resembling  the  work  of  woodpeckers  on  old  dead  trees. 

These  dividing  headlands  are  covered  mostly  with  Norway  pine  and 
cedars,  and  are  luxuriously  carpeted  with  moss.  They  extend  back 
several  hundred  feet  from  the  lake,  and  have  the  appearance  of  horse- 
backs. A  geologist  would  find  much  to  interest  him  in  an  examination 
of  these  ledges. 

On  the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake,  just  above  an  island,  and  directly 
opposite  to  Lobster  Mountain,  there  is  a  place  where  two  of  these 
headlands  are  together,  as  usual  dividing  two  sand  beaches.  The 
headlands  are  about  fifty  feet  apart  at  the  lake  shore,  a  deep  gully  be- 
tween them,  and  as  they  run  back  from  the  water  they  come  nearer 
together,  the  gully  becoming  more  shallow.  Some  of  the  ledges  about 
the  shore  are  so  full  of  holes  that  they  resemble  honeycomb  more  than 
anything  else.  From  the  tops  of  these  ridges  one  obtains  splendid 
views  of  the  lake  and  mountains.  The  Spencer  Mountains  lie  south- 
west of  the  lake,  and  Lobster  Mountain  west.  Kineo  Junior,  and 
several  other  mountains,  whose  names  we  do  not  know,  can  be  seen 
from  different  parts  of  the  lake. 

The  land  at  the  north  and  northwest  end  of  the  lake  consists  of 
swamps  and  meadows,  and  the  shores  are  low;  but  all  around  the 
remainder  of  the  lake  the  land  is  high,  and  in  some  places  the  moun- 
tains descend  to  the  water.  The  foliage  is  deep  and  rich,  the  forest 
dense,  and  comprises  nearly  all  of  the  different  varieties  of  our  native 
trees.  Over  some  of  the  lower  ridges  near  the  lake  shore  distant 
mountains  are  seen  towering  up  against  the  sky. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


179 


This  lake  is  one  of  the  prettiest  sheets  of  water  we  have  ever  seen, 
and  it  is  a  pity  that  it  could  not  have  received  some  name  more  in 
sympathy  with  its  surroundings.  Its  name  originated  from  the  num- 
ber of  fresh-water  lobsters  found  in  it.  They  are  not  much  larger 
than  shrimps.    "  Beautiful  Lake  "  would  be  far  more  api^ropriate. 

Nearly  all  of  the  sand  beaches  that  border  the  lake  are  oval  or  semi- 
circular in  shape.  Back  of  these,  in  many  places,  will  be  found  a 
strip  of  pebbles  and  stones  from  six  to  twenty  feet  wide.  These  rocky 
beaches  are  well  worth  your  attention.  They  contain  stones  of  all 
kinds,  sizes,  shapes,  and  colors.  Some  of  these  rocks  are  curiously 
indented,  others  are  polished  as  highly  as  marble.  There  is  a  smooth 
stone,  to  be  found  in  large  quantities  in  some  of  these  places,  that 
strongly  resembles  hornblende;  but  I  could  not  decide  whether  it  was 
or  not.  I  picked  up  one  stone  about  the  size  of  a  lemon,  that  was 
almost  round,  and  carried  it  off  with  me  for  a  souvenir. 

On  my  last  trip  to  Lobster  Lake  I  intended  making  a  circuit  of  it, 
and  exploring  it  thoroughly;  but  before  we  had  time  the  wind  came 
out  strong  from  the  northwest,  kicking  up  a  troublesome  sea,  and  it 
was  too  rough  for  canoeing  with  any  degree  of  comfort. 

However,  we  crossed  the  lake,  thereby  securing  a  tliorough  wetting 
from  the  spray  that  occasionally  flew  over  us,  passing  to  the  north  of 
the  peninsula  that  nearly  cuts  the  lake  in  two,  and  reached  the  west- 
ern shore.  Rounding  a  pebbly  point,  we  entered  a  small  bay,  full  of 
rocky  islets,  and  followed  the  shore  until  we  reached  the  base  of  Lobster 
Mountain.  Then  turning  about  we  retraced  our  course  to  the  point, 
and  paddled  along  the  western  shore  back  to  Lobster  Stream. 

On  this  side  of  the  lake  we  found  the  same  characteristics  as  on  the 
eastern  shore;  bold,  rocky  headlands  and  sand  beaches  alternating 
with  each  other  the  entire  distance  around  to  the  river. 

Within  half  a  mile  of  the  outlet,  on  a  clear  day,  you  can  obtain  a 
magnificent  view  of  Ktaadn.  And  we  stopped  a  few  moments  to  take 
a  look  at  the  mountain,  rising  majestically  in  the  east,  grand,  impres- 
sive, sublime,  its  loftiest  peak  just  showing  above  a  fleecy  mantle  of 
cloud,  and  bathed  in  the  golden  rays  of  an  autumnal  sun.  The  mass 
of  feathery  cloud  hovered  about  it,  as  long  as  we  were  in  sight,  with 
caressing  tenderness,  and  kissed  its  cold  forehead  as  daintily  as  coy 
maiden  ever  touched  the  lips  of  her  lover.  But  our  time  was  limited; 
and,  with  a  sigh  of  regret  at  leaving  this  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  and 
a  kindly  nod  to  old  Ktaadn,  we  paddled  onward,  and  swept  into  the 
Lobster  Stream. 


180 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE. 


By  this  time  the  wind  had  ahnost  ceased  blowing,  and  the  river  was 
calm  and  placid,  its  waters  scarcely  ruffled.  As  we  turned  out  of  the 
Lobster  into  the  Penobscot,  the  declining  sun  met  us  full  in  the  face, 
dazzling  our  eyes,  and  caused  us  to  do  an  unusual  amount  of  winking 
and  blinking.  Only  a  few  expiring  zephyrs  swept  the  bosom  of  the 
West  Branch,  and  we  paddled  lazily  along,  reaching  the  carry  road  in 
an  hour  and  a  quarter  from  the  time  we  left  the  lake.  I  had  never 
passed  a  more  delightful  day,  and  had  never  seen  a  more  beautiful 
sheet  of  water  than  Lobster  Lake. 

This  locality,  especially  about  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  was  once  a 
great  place  for  moose,  and  a  few  are  still  found  in  the  vicinity.  A  few 
years  ago  a  law  was  passed  for  their  protection,  and  it  had  the  effect 
to  somewhat  increase  their  number.  But  the  law  expired  too  quick, 
and  it  would  be  a  good  thing  for  the  moose,  and  go  far  toward  pre- 
venting their  extermination,  if  the  next  Legislature  would  make 
another  close  season  of  at  least  five  years.  Caribou  and  deer  are 
plenty  around  the  lake,  and  quite  a  number  are  shot  each  year. 

A  good  road  runs  from  the  head  of  Moosehead  through  the  woods 
to  Lobster,  coming  out  a  little  west  of  the  outlet,  a  distance  of  three 
miles.  It  starts  from  the  eastern  side  of  the  beach,  about  a  mile 
from  the  hotel.  Parties  can  go  to  Lobster  by  way  of  the  rivers,  and 
return  through  the  woods,  or  vice  versa,  thus  giving  greater  variety  to 
the  trip. 

The  fishing  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Winnegarnock  is  excellent,  and 
many  trout  are  taken  each  season  from  the  end  of  the  steamboat 
wharf.  At  Norcross  Brook,  Centre  Island,  W  Ledges,  Williams 
Stream,  Russell  Stream  and  Pond,  Nelhudus,  Seboomook  Falls,  Lob- 
ster Lake,  and  other  places  but  a  short  distance  away,  known  to  the 
hotel  people,  one  is  always  sure  of  a  good  catch. 

Through  September  and  October  there  is  first-rate  partridge  shoot- 
ing within  a  mile  or  two  of  the  house;  and  musk-rat,  mink,  and  otter 
are  plenty  on  the  West  Branch.  Between  Lobster  Stream  and  the 
Moosehead  is  good  ground  for  deer  and  caribou,  and  numbers  are  shot 
there  each  season. 

Mrs.  Savage  charges  $1.50  for  hauling  one  canoe  across  the  carry;  two 
or  more  canoes,  $L00  each.  These  prices  include  baggage  and  camp- 
stores.  Since  the  death  of  her  husband,  Mrs.  Savage  has  carried  on  the 
hotel,  but  the  present  season  she  will  probably  lease  it,  to  whom  can- 
not be  learned  at  this  writing. 


CHAPTEE  XIL 


TOURS  BEYOND  MOOSEHEAD.  — DOWN  THE  WEST 
BRANCH. 

'^^  ^tel) '^^-'■■^^  (lone  Moosehead,  you  will  have 


and  if  you  take  our  advice  you  will  also  engage  a  good  guide.  Good 
we  mean  in  the  literal  sense  of  the  word;  a  guide  who  wields  a  strong 
and  skilful  paddle,  wlio  knows  how  to  handle  a  setting-pole,  who  can 
shoot  straight,  a  good  cook,  an  excellent  story-teller;  one  strong,  will- 
ing, cheerful,  and  courageous.  This  is  the  outline  of  the  man  you 
need  to  accompany  you  down  the  West  Branch,  and  perchance  to  the 
summit  of  Ktaadn.  Such  a  guide  commands  good  pay.  But  a  cross- 
grained,  lazy  slouch,  hired  because  you  can  get  him  cheap,  is  dear  at 
any  price.  Such  a  guide  can  be  obtained  at  either  Greenville  or 
Mount  Kineo  by  inquiring  of  the  hotel  proprietors,  who  know  them 
all,  and  are  generally  well  posted  as  to  their  worth. 

Leaving  the  hospitable  roof  of  the  Winnegarnock  House  we  cross 
the  carry,  the  road  running  through  the  well-cultivated  farm  of  George 
C.  Luce,  who  succeeds  Joseph  Morris,  who  was  here  nearly  twenty 
years.  Mr.  Luce  makes  a  business  during  summer  of  entertaining 
sportsmen  and  tourists,  at  a  reasonable  price.  He  has  plenty  of 
teams,  and  is  always  ready  to  do  any  hauling  over  the  carry  at  low 
rates. 


acquired  an  appetite  for  the  wilderness, 
that  can  only  be  appeased  by  making 
one  of  the  river  trips,  and  one  of  the 
most  interesting  and  exciting  tours  that 
can  be  made  beyond  Moosehead  Lake 
is  the  trip  down  the  West  Branch  of  the 
Penobscot,  bringing  one,  as  it  does,  to 
the  most  direct  point  from  which  the 
ascent  of  Mount  Ktaadn  can  be  made. 
A  canoe  is  indispensable  for  this  trip, 


181 


182 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


A  tote-road  starts  from  the  Luce  Farm,  and  runs  to  Chesuncook, 
following  the  river  closely  all  the  way.  People  who  are  fond  of 
walking  can  thus  make  the  trip  to  Chesuncook  by  land,  although 
they  may  have  to  ford  some  of  the  small  streams  that  cross;  none 
of  them,  however,  are  over  a  foot  deep.  The  road  is  dry  and  well 
bushed  out,  and  so  plain  it  can  be  followed  the  entire  distance  with- 
out difficulty.  It  comes  out  at  the  head  of  Chesuncook  about  half 
a  mile  from  the  hotel.  Sometimes  in  the  fall,  when  the  water  is  very 
low  on  the  river,  the  woodsmen  prefer  to  stretch  their  legs  over  the 
*'  tote-road,"  rather  than  double  them  up  in  a  birch. 

At  the  landing  beyond  Luce's  we  launch  our  canoe,  and  a  few 
moments  later  are  floating  down  the  Penobscot.  For  the  first  two 
miles  the  river  is  comparatively  smooth,  and  the  water  deep  and  black. 
Its  banks  are  about  six  feet  high,  thickly  covered  with  white  and 
black  spruce,  fir,  cedar,  birch,  maple,  poplar;  also  an  occasional  oak, 
hemlock,  ash,  and  elm.  The  common  yellow  lily  and  the  fragrant 
pond-lilies  are  plenty  along  our  course,  and  tempt  us  from  time  to 
time  to  pluck  their  white  blossoms  and  inhale  their  delicious  perfume. 
This  vicinity  was  once  a  famous  hunting-ground  for  moose,  and  even 
now  they  are  sometimes  shot  here.  We  saw  moose  tracks  for  some 
distance  along  the  sides  of  this  part  of  the  river,  on  one  of  our  trips 
to  Chesuncook.  The  first  stream  we  pass  of  any  importance  is 
Lobster  Stream,  which  comes  in  on  the  right  from  the  southeast, 
two  miles  below  the  carry.  There  is  a  small  island  at  the  mouth  of 
the  stream,  and  the  water  around  it  is  shoal.  Lobster  Lake  is  about 
two  miles  from  the  river,  and  during  high  water  the  Penobscot  flows 
back  into  the  lake.  The  Lobster  Stream  is  navigable,  for  canoes  or 
boats,  the  entire  distance  to  the  lake.  Near  the  mouth  of  the  stream 
we  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  Spencer  Mountains,  lying  east  of  Mount 
Kineo  and  south  of  Lobster  Lake. 

Below  the  mouth  of  the  Lobster  we  find  quick  water  with  some 

rips,"  and  the  river  narrows  and  widens  by  turns,  in  some  places 
being  wider  than  at  the  carry.  Two  miles  and  a  half  more  and  we 
reach  Warren  Island,  small  and  thickly  wooded,  a  good  camping-place. 
Charlie  Nicholas,  the  guide,  claims  to  be  the  first  person  who  camped 
on  it.  The  landing  is  on  the  left  side.  For  three  miles  and  a  half 
beyond  it  is  dead  water,  and  we  paddle  easily  along.  We  have  now 
passed  the  Moose  Horn,  a  small  stream  that  empties  into  the  river 
from  the  right.  It  is  very  crooked,  and  only  a  few  feet  wide.  From 
here  to  the  head  of  Pine  Stream  Falls  it  is  mostly  rapid  water  and 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS.  183 


"rips."  In  this  vicinity  we  obtain  the  first  view  of  Ktaadn.  One 
mile  below  is  Kenney's  Rips,  and  a  mile  beyond,  on  the  right-hand 
side  of  the  river,  you  will  notice  Sears' s  Clearing,  just  half-way  to 
Cliesuncook.  There  is  an  old  potato  cellar  on  the  clearing,  in  sight 
from  the  river,  that  offers  a  shelter  if  you  are  caught  in  a  rain.  Lazy 
people  are  in  the  habit  of  camping  there. 

A  quarter  of  a  mile  below  Sears' s  Clearing  we  reach  the  Ragmuff,  a 
winding  stream  that  comes  in  on  the  left.  From  here  to  Big  Island 
is  a  mile  and  a  quarter.  It  is  generally  good  fishing-ground  at  the 
mouths  of  these  small  streams.  Leaving  Ragmuff  —  singular  name 
by  the  way  —  we  pass  over  some  long  rips,  and  notice  the  Little 
Ragmuff,  a  narrow,  crooked  stream  that  empties  into  the  Penobscot 
on  the  left.  A  short  distance  beyond  the  banks  of  the  river  improve 
in  appearance,  the  blue  clay  changing  to  gravel,  bowlders,  and  ledges. 
From  time  to  time  you  will  notice  on  the  side  of  the  river  piles  of 
muscle-shells,  or  fresh-water  clams.  These  are  left  by  musk-rats, 
who  bring  the  clams  from  the  bottom  of  the  river,  and,  after  open- 
ing them  and  eating  the  meat,  leave  the  shells  behind  to  mystify 
voyagers. 

We  have  now  reached  the  Big  Island,  partially  cleared  for  a  farm, 
and  passing  to  the  right  of  it  have  another  stretch  of  rapids,  and  a 
half-mile  more  brings  us  to  the  Fox  Hole,  another  good  place  for 
fishing;  there  is  also  a  good  camping-place  near  here  on  the  left  side 
of  the  river.  A  short  distance  below,  we  reach  another  island.  Pass- 
ing to  the  left  of  this,  we  notice  on  the  left  bank  of  the  stream,  about 
opposite  the  middle  of  the  island,  a  cold  spring, — a  good  place  to 
stop  a  few  moments  if  you  are  thirsty.  There  is  first-rate  fishing  in 
this  vicinity. 

About  three-quarters  of  a  mile  below  here  is  a  stretch  of  dead 
water  ;  passing  over  this,  you  come  to  another  island,  covered  with 
coarse  grass,  and  ornamented  with  a  few  scraggy  elms.  At  the  head 
of  this  island,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  is  an  attractive  place  to 
camp,  and,  judging  from  the  looks  of  the  ground,  a  great  many 
parties  have  camped  there.  During  the  spring  and  summer  it  is 
good  fishing  in  this  locality.  The  river  is  perhaps  thirty  rods  wide 
here,  and  its  shores  are  covered  with  elms,  poplars,  and  birches. 

From  this  point  islands  increase  in  number,  the  most  of  them 
being  small,  and  covered  with  coarse  grass  and  alders.  The  Rocky 
Rips  are  the  next  rapids.  Running  these  without  difficulty,  you 
reach  the  Pine  Stream  dead  water.    On  the  left  bank  of  the  river, 


184 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


nearly  opposite  Pine  Stream,  is  a  good  camping-ground.  Passing  Pine 
Stream,  flowing  in  from  the  right,  three  miles  above  the  lake,  a  few 
strokes  of  the  paddle  and  you  are  at  the  head  of  Pine  Stream  Falls. 

This  is  the  worst  stretch 
of  water  between  the  two 
lakes,  consisting  of  three 
principal 
falls,  fol- 
lowed by 


half  a  mile  or 
more  of  heavy 
rapids.  In  high 
water   a  safe 
passage  all  the 
way    may  be 
found  on  the 
left  side.  But 
at  an  ordinary 
or  10 w  stage  of  water  run 
the  first  "pitch"  in  the 
middle  of  the  stream,  then  swing  to  the  left,  and  run  the  other  two 
falls  on  that  side.    These  rapids  are  easily  run  by  an  experienced 
canoe-man,  but  may  cause  an  amateur  some  trouble. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


185 


Between  the  falls  and  the  lake  you  pass  fifteen  or  twenty  islands. 
The  land  on  each  side  of  the  river  below  the  falls  is  low  and  meadowy, 
covered  with  swamp-grass,  and  a  dismal-looking  growth  of  trees,  the 
most  of  which  have  been  killed  by  the  frequent  rise  of  the  water. 
In  the  spring,  during  high  water,  the  lake  flows  back  nearly  to  the 
head  of  the  falls. 

Approaching  the  lake,  you  pass  two  piers,  a  boom  being  strung 
across,  below  them,  to  hold  the  logs  when  they  come  down  the  river. 
A  short  distance  beyond  you  glide  by  two  log  shanties  — the  outposts 
of  Chesuncook  settlement,  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river. 
These  houses  are  occupied  by  French  Canadians,  who  are  generally 
squatters,  and  a  very  undesirable  class  of  settlers.  The  banks  of  the 
river  below  these  cabins  have  been  cleared,  and  you  soon  shoot  out 
into  the  lake,  turn  the  barren  point  on  your  right  hand,  and  head  for 
the  Chesuncook  Farm  House,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below  the  mouth  of 
the  river  on  the  southern  side  of  the  lake.  It  takes  about  seven  or 
eight  hours  from  the  carry  to  the  lake. 

On  entering  the  lake  wliere  the  stream  runs  southeasterly,  we 
obtained  a  good  view  of  Ktaadn  and  its  attendant  peaks,  apparently 
twenty  miles  or  more  away. 

There  is  quite  a  settlement  at  Chesuncook,  the  population  number- 
ing nearly  eighty  people,  most  of  whom  are  French  Canadians.  The 
hotel  stands  upon  a  hill,  about  a  hundred  feet  above  the  lake,  and 
has  accommodations  for  perhaps  twenty  people.  It  commands  a  very 
fair  view^  of  Ktaadn,  and  a  number  of  other  mountains;  also  six  or 
eight  miles  of  the  lake.  It  is  owned  by  J.  H.  Eveleth,  and  is  man- 
aged by  Leonard  Hilton.  There  is  one  store  at  Chesuncook  Lake, 
belonging  to  Mr.  Eveleth,  the  proprietor  of  the  hotel.  The  stock  is 
similar  to  that  generally  kept  in  a  country  store.  A  school  is  kept 
here  sometimes  during  a  few  months  of  winter,  but  there  is  neither 
church  nor  chapel.  There  are  a  number  of  good  fishing  resorts  within 
a  circle  of  five  miles  from  the  hotel,  and  guides  and  canoes  can  be 
obtained  of  the  proprietor  if  desired. 

Chesuncook  Lake  extends  northwest  and  southeast,  and  is  seven- 
teen miles  long  and  two  wide  in  the  broadest  part;  there  are  no 
islands  in  it,  and,  generally  speaking,  it  is  a  shoal  lake  ;  the  upper 
end  especially  so.  Parties  on  their  way  down  the  West  Branch,  who 
have  occasion  to  linger  in  this  vicinity,  will  find  the  Chesuncook  Farm 
House  a  comfortable  place  to  stop  at.  The  Caucomgomoc  flows  into 
the  lake  about  two  miles  above  here.    Moose  Brook  empties  into  an 


186 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


arm  of  the  lake  at  the  northern  end.  It  is  navigable  for  canoes  to 
Moose  Pond,  two-thirds  of  a  mile  from  the  lake.  Beyond  Moose 
Pond  there  are  three  miles  of  rapid  water  to  Cussabexis  Lake.  A 
canoe  can  be  waded  up  the  stream  to  the  lake.  Duck  Pond  empty- 
ing into  Moose  Pond  can  only  be  reached  by  a  carry  to  the  dam. 
Theodore  Winthrop  thus  relates  his  experience  on  Chesuncook  and 
Kipogenus :  — 

Chesuncook  is  a  ^  bulge '  of  the  Penobscot;  so  much  for  its  topog- 
raphy. It  is  deep  in  the  woods,  except  that  some  miles  from  its 
opening  there  is  a  lumber-station,  with  house  and  barns.  In  the 
wilderness,  man  makes  for  man  by  a  necessity  of  human  instinct. 
We  made  for  the  log  houses.  We  found  there  an  ex-barkeeper  of  a 
certain  well-known  New  York  cockney  coffee-house,  promoted  into  a 
frontiersman,  but  mindful  still  of  flesh-pots.  Poor  fellow,  he  was 
still  prouder  that  he  had  once  tossed  the  foaming  cocktail  than  that 
he  could  now  fell  the  forest-monarch.  Mixed  drinks  were  dearer  to 
him  than  pure  air.  When  we  entered  the  long,  low  log  cabin,  he  was 
boiling  doughnuts,  as  was  to  be  expected.  In  certain  regions  of 
America  every  cook  who  is  not  baking  pork  and  beans  is  boiling 
doughnuts,  just  as  in  certain  other  gastronomic  quarters /ri/o/es  alter- 
nate with  tortillas. 

Doughnuts,  like  peaches,  must  be  eaten  with  the  dew  upon  them. 
Caught  as  they  come  bobbing  up  in  the  bubbling  pot,  I  will  not  say 
that  they  are  despicable.  Woodsmen  and  canoe-men,  competent  to 
pork  and  beans,  can  master  also  the  alternative.  The  ex-barkeeper 
was  generous  with  these  brown  and  glistening  langrage-shot,  and 
aimed  volley  after  volley  at  our  mouths.  Nor  was  he  content  with 
giving  us  our  personal  fill;  into  every  crevice  of  our  firkin  he  packed 
a  pellet  of  future  indigestion.  Besides  this  result  of  foraging,  we 
took  the  hint  from  a  visible  cow  that  milk  might  be  had.  Of  this 
also  the  ex-barkeeper  served  us  out  galore,  sighing  that  it  was  not  the 
punch  of  his  metropolitan  days.  We  put  our  milk  in  our  teapot,  and 
thus,  with  all  the  ravages  of  the  past  made  good,  we  launched  again 
upon  Chesuncook. 

"  Chesuncook,  according  to  its  quality  of  lake,  had  no  aid  to  give 
us  with  current.  Paddling  all  a  hot  August  mid-day  over  slothful 
water  would  be  tame,  day-laborer's  work.  But  there  was  a  breeze. 
Good  !  Come,  kind  zephyr,  fill  our  red  blanket-sail  !  Cancut's 
blanket  in  the  bow  became  a  substitute  for  Cancut's  paddle  in  the 
stern.    We  swept  along  before  the  wind,  unsteadily,  over  Lake  CLe- 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


187 


suncook,  at  sea  in  a  bowl,  —  *  rolled  to  starboard,  rolled  to  larboard,' 
in  our  keelless  craft.  Zephyr  only  followed  us,  mild  as  he  was  strong, 
and  strong  as  he  was  mild.  Had  he  been  puffy,  it  would  have  been 
all  over  with  us.  But  the  breeze  only 
sang  about  our  way,  and  shook  the 
water  out  of  sunny  calm.  Ktaadn  to 
the  north,  a  fair,  blue  pyramid, 
lifted  higher  and  stooped  for- 
ward more  imminent,  yet  still 
so  many  leagues  away  that  his 
features  were  undefined,  and 
the  gray  of  his  scalp  un- 
distinguisliable  from  the 
green  of  his  beard 
of  forest.  Every 


mile,  however,  as  we  slid  drowsily  over  the  hot  lake,  proved  more 
and  more  that  we  were  not  befooled,  —  Iglesias  by  memory,  and  I  by 
anticipation.  Ktaadn  lost  nothing  by  approach,  as  some  of  the  gran- 
dees do;  as  it  grew  bigger,  it  grew  better. 


188 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


"  Twenty  miles,  or  so,  of  Cliesuncook,  sun-cooked  Chesuncook,  we 
traversed  by  the  aid  of  our  blanket-sail,  pleasantly  wafted  by  the 
unboisterous  breeze.  Undrowned,  unducked,  as  safe  from  the  perils 
of  the  broad  lake  as  we  had  come  out  of  the  defiles  of  the  rapids,  we 
landed  at  the  carry  below  the  dam  at  the  lake's  outlet." 

Caribou  Lake,  so  named  from  the  large  herds  of  these  animals  that 
formerly  frequented  its  shores,  lies  southwest  of  Chesuncook,  and 
empties  into  it.  A  stream  of  dead  water  two  miles  long  connects  the 
two  lakes.  The  lake  is  about  seven  miles  long,  and  from  one  to  two 
wide.  Deer  Pond  is  emptied  into  its  northwestern  corner  by  a  stream 
a  mile  long.  Kagged  Lkke  and  several  small  ponds  and  streams 
empty  into  it  at  the  southern  end.  There  is  good  fishing  around  the 
mouths  of  these  streams. 

At  Chesuncook  Dam,  and  in  pools  below  it,  one  will  find  good 
trout  fishing,  and  occasionally  some  lucky  angler  hooks  a  salmon. 
The  carry  begins  a  short  distance  south  of  the  dam,  and  is  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  long,  the  road  being  good  all  the  way. 

"  The  skin  of  many  a  slaughtered  varmint  was  nailed  on  its  shingle, 
and  the  landing-place  was  carpeted  with  the  fur.  Doughnuts,  ex- 
barkeepers,  and  civilization  at  one  end  of  the  lake,  and  here  were 
musk-rat  skins,  trappers,  and  the  primeval.  Two  hunters  of  moose, 
in  default  of  their  fern-horned,  blubber-lipped  game,  had  condescended 
to  musk-rat,  and  were  making  the  lower  end  of  Chesuncook  fragrant 
with  muskiness. 

"  It  is  surprising  how  hospitable  and  comrade  a  creature  is  man. 
The  trappers  of  musk-rats  were  charmingly  brotherly.  They  guided 
us  across  the  carry;  they  would  not  hear  of  our  being  porters.  '  Pluck 
the  superabundant  huckleberry,'  said  they,  Svhile  we,  suspending 
your  firkin  and  your  traps  upon  the  setting-pole,  tote  them,  as  the 
spies  of  Joshua  toted  the  grape-clusters  of  the  Promised  Land.' 

Cancut,  for  his  share,  carried  the  canoe.  He  wore  it  upon  his 
head  and  shoulders.  Tough  work  he  found  it,  toiling  through  the 
underwood,  and  poking  his  way  like  an  elongated  and  mobile  mush- 
room through  the  thick  shrubbery.  Ever  and  anon  as  Iglesias  and  I 
paused,  we  would  be  aware  of  the  canoe  thrusting  itself  above  our 
heads  in  the  covert,  and  a  voice  would  come  from  an  unseen  head 
under  its  shell,  '  It's  soul-breaking,  carrying  is  ! ' 

The  portage  was  short.  We  emerged  from  the  birchen  grove  upon 
the  river,  below  a  brilliant  cascading  rapid.  The  water  came  flashing 
gloriously  forward,  a  far  other  element  than  the  tame,  flat  stuff  we 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS.  189 


had  drifted  slowly  over  all  the  dullish  hours.  Water  on  the  go  is 
nobler  than  wciter  on  the  stand;  recklessness  may  be  as  fatal  as  stag- 
nation, but  it  is  more  heroic. 

"Presen  ly,  over  the  edge,  where  the  foam  and  spray  were  spring- 
ing up  into  sunshine,  our  canoe  suddenly  appeared,  and  had  hardly 
appeared,  when,  as  if  by  one  leap,  it  had  passed  the  rapid,  and  was 
gliding  in  the  stiller  current  to  our  feet.  One  of  the  muskrateers  had 
relieved  Cancut  of  his  head-piece,  and  shot  the  lower  rush  of  water. 
We  again  embarked,  and,  guided  by  the  trappers  in  their  own  canoe, 
paddled  out  upon  Lake  Ripogenus. 

Ripogenus  is  a  tarn,  a  lovely  oval  tarn,  within  a  rim  of  forest  and 
hill  ;  and  there  behold,  O  gioja  !  at  its  eastern  end,  stooping  forward 
and  filling  the  sphere,  Avas  Ktaadn,  large  and  alone." 

Harrington  Lake,  three  miles  long,  and  perhaps  a  mile  wide,  empties 
into  the  northwest  corner  of  Ripogenus  Lake  through  Ripogenus 
Stream.  It  is  a  pretty  sheet  of  water,  with  thickly  wooded  shores. 
A  good  path  follows  up  the  east  side  of  Ripogenus  Stream  to  Harring- 
ton Lake,  crossing  the  outlet,  and  continues  north  along  another 
brook  to  within  about  two  miles  of  Nesowadnehunk  Lake.  There  are 
many  good  camping-spots  about  the  shores  of  Harrington  Lake.  Sev- 
eral small  ponds  empty  into  the  eastern  portion  of  the  lake.  Harring- 
ton Lake  can  also  be  reached  by  a  tote-road  from  Chesuncook,  which 
leaves  the  lake  shore  at  a  point  about  a  mile  above  the  dam.  There 
is  good  fishing  at  the  outlet  of  Harrington  Lake,  and  in  some  small 
ponds  below  it.  Small  trout  are  also  found  in  many  places  on  Ripo- 
genus Stream. 

But  we  must  hasten,  for  day  wanes,  and  we  must  see  and  sketch 
this  cloudless  summit  from  terra  firma.  A  mile  and  half-way  down 
the  lake,  we  landed  at  the  foot  of  a  grassy  hill-side,  where  once  had 
been  a  lumberman's  station  and  hay  farm.  It  w^as  abandoned  now, 
and  lonely  in  that  deeper  sense  in  wdiich  widowhood  is  lonelier  than 
celibacy,  a  home  deserted  lonelier  than  a  desert.  Tumble-down  w^as 
the  never-painted  house  ;  ditto  its  three  barns.  But,  besides  a  camp, 
there  were  two  things  to  be  had  here, — one  certain,  one  possible, 
probable  even.  The  view,  that  was  an  inevitable  certainty;  Iglesias 
would  bag  that  as  his  share  of  the  plunder  of  Ripogenus.  For  my 
bagging,  bears,  perchance,  awaited.  The  trappers  had  seen  a  bear 
near  the  barns.  Cancut,  in  his  previous  visit,  had  seen  a  disappear- 
ance of  bear.  No  sooner  had  the  birch's  bow  touched  lightly  upon 
the  shore  than  we  seized  our  respective  weapons,  —  Iglesias  his 


190 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


peaceful  and  creative  sketch-book,  I  my  warlike  and  destructive  gun, 
—  dashed  up  the  hill-side. 

''I  made  for  the  barns  to  catch  bruin  napping  or  lolHng  in  the  old 
hay.  I  entertain  a  vendetta  toward  the  ursine  family.  I  had  a  duello, 
pistol  against  claw,  with  one  of  them  in  the  mountains  of  Oregon,  and 
have  nothing  to  show  to  point  the  moral  and  adorn  the  tale.  My  an- 
tagonist of  that  hand-to-hand  fight  received  two  shots,  and  then 
dodged  into  cover  and  was  lost  in  the  twiUght.  Soon  or  late  in  my 
life,  I  hoped  that  I  should  avenge  this  evasion.  Ripogenus  would, 
perhaps,  give  what  the  Nachchese  Pass  had  taken  away. 

"  Yain  hope  !  I  was  not  to  be  an  ursicide.  I  began  to  fear  that  I 
shall  slay  no  other  than  my  proper  personal  bearisliness.  I  did  my 
duty  for  another  result  at  Ripogenus.  I  bolted  audaciously  into  every 
barn.  I  made  excursions  into  the  woods  around.  I  found  the  mark 
of  the  beast,  not  the  beast.  He  had  not  long  ago  decamped,  and  was 
now,  perhaps,  sucking  the  meditative  paw  hard  by  in  an  arbor  of  his 
bear-garden. 

^'  After  a  vain  hunt,  I  gave  up  Beast  and  turned  to  Beauty.  I 
looked  about  me,  seeing  much. 

^'  Foremost  I  saw  a  fellow-man,  my  comrade,  fondled  by  breeze  and 
brightness,  and  whispered  to  by  all  sweet  sounds.  I  saw  Iglesias 
below  me,  on  the  slope,  sketching.  He  was  preserving  the  scene  at 
its  hel  momento.  I  repented  more  bitterly  of  my  momentary  false- 
ness to  Beauty  while  I  saw  him  so  constant. 

^^Furthermore,  I  saw  a  landscape  of  vigorous  simplicity,  easy  to 
comprehend.  By  mellow  sunset  the  grass  slope  of  the  old  farm 
seemed  no  longer  tanned  and  rusty,  but  ripened.  The  oval  lake  was- 
blue  and  calm,  and  that  is  already  much  to  say  ;  shadows  of  the 
western  hills  were  growing  over  it,  but  flight  after  flight  of  illumined 
clouds  soared  above,  to  console  the  sky  and  the  water  for  the  coming 
of  night.  Northward,  a  forest  darkled,  whose  glades  of  brightness  I 
could  not  see.  Eastward,  the  bank  mounted  abruptly  to  a  bare,  fire- 
swept  table-land,  whereon  a  few  dead  trees  stood,  parched  and  ghostly 
skeletons  draped  with  rags  of  moss. 

Furthermost  and  topmost,  I  saw  Ktaadn  twenty  miles  away,  a 
giant  undwarfed  by  any  rival.  The  remainder  landscape  was  only 
minor  and  judiciously  accessory.  The  hills  were  low  before  it,  the 
lake  lowly,  and  upright  above  lake  and  hill  lifted  the  mountain  pyra- 
mid. Isolated  greatness  tells.  There  were  no  underling  mounts 
above  this  mountain-in-chief.    And  now  on  its  shoulders  and  crest 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


191 


sunset  shone,  glowing. 
AVarm  violet  followed 
the  glow,  soothing 
away  the  harshness  of  granite 
lines.  Luminous  violet  dwelt 
upon  the  peak,  while  below 
the  clinging  forests  were  pur- 
ple in  sheltered  gorges,  where 
they  could  climb 
nearer  the  sum- 
mit, loved  of 
light,  and  lower 
down  gloomed 
green  and  som- 
b  r  e  in  the 
shadow. 
Meanwhile,  as  I  looked, 
the  quivering  violet  rose 
higher  and  higher,  and  at  last 
floated  away  like  a  disengaged 
flame.  A  smouldering  blue 
dwelt  upon  the  peak.  Ashy 
gray  overcame  the  blue.  As 


192 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


dusk  thickened  and  stars  trembled  into  sight,  the  gray  grew  luminous. 
Ktaadn's  mighty  presence  seemed  to  absorb  such  dreamy  gUmmers 
as  float  in  limpid  night-air;  a  faint  glory,  a  twilight  of  its  own, 
clothed  it.  King  of  the  day-lit  world,  it  became  queen  of  the  dim- 
mer realms  of  night,  and  like  a  woman-queen  it  did  not  disdain  to 
stoop  and  study  its  loveliness  in  the  polished  lake,  and  stooping  thus 
it  overhung  the  earth,  a  shadowy  creature  of  gleam  and  gloom,  an 
eternized  cloud. 

"  I  sat  staring  and  straying  in  sweet  reverie,  until  the  scene  before 
me  w^as  dim  as  metaphysics.  Suddenly  a  flame  flashed  up  in  the 
void.  It  grew  and  steadied,  and  dark  objects  became  visible  about  it. 
In  the  loneliness  —  for  Iglesias  had  disappeared  —  I  allowed  myself  a 
moment's  luxury  of  superstition.  Were  these  the  Cyclops  of  Ktaadn? 
Possibly.  Were  they  Trolls  forging  diabolic  enginery,  or  Gypsies  of 
Yankeedom  ?    I  will  see,  — and  went  tumbling  down  the  hill-side. 

"  As  I  entered  the  circle  about  the  cooking-fire  of  drift-wood  by  the 
lake,  Iglesias  said,  — 

^'  *  The  beefsteak  and  the  mutton  chops  will  do  for  breakfast;  now, 
then,  with  your  bear  ! ' 

'Haw,  haw  !'  guffawed  Cancut;  and  the  sound,  taking  the  lake 
at  a  stride,  found  echoes  everywhere,  till  he  grew  silent,  and  peered 
suspiciously  into  the  dark. 

"  '  There's  more  bears  raound'n  yer  kin  shake  a  stick  at,'  said  one 
of  the  muskrateers.  '  Wouldn't  recommend  yer  to  stir  'em  up  naow, 
haowlin'  like  that.' 

'I  meant  it  for  laffin','  said  Cancut,  humbly. 

**^Ef  yer  call  that  'ere  larfin',  couldn't  yer  cry  a  little  to  kinder 
slick  daown  the  bears  ?  '  said  the  trapper. 

''Iglesias  now  invited  us  to  chocolat  a  la  crenie,  made  with  the 
boon  of  the  ex-barkeeper.  I  suppose  I  may  say,  without  flattery,  that 
this  tipple  was  marvellous.  What  a  pity  Nature  spoiled  a  cook  by 
making  the  muddler  of  that  chocolate  a  painter  of  grandeurs.  When 
Fine  Art  is  in  a  man's  nature,  it  must  exude,  as  pitch  leaks  from  a 
pine-tree.  Our  musk-rat  hunters  partook  injudiciously  of  this  unac- 
customed dainty,  and  w^ere  visited  with  indescribable  Nemesis.  They 
had  never  been  acclimated  to  chocolate,  as  had  Iglesias  and  I,  by  sip- 
ping it  under  the  shade  of  the  mimosa  and  the  palm. 

"  Up  to  a  certain  point  an  unlucky  hunter  is  more  likely  to  hunt 
than  a  lucky.  Satiety  follows  more  speedily  upon  success  than  despair 
upon  failure.    Let  us  thank  Heaven  for  that,  brethren  dear.    I  had 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


193 


bagged  not  a  bear,  and  must  needs  satisfy  my  assassin  instincts  upon 
something  with  hoofs  and  horns.  The  younger  trapper  of  musk-rat, 
being  young,  was  ardent,  —  being  young,  was  hopeful,  — being  young, 
beheved  in  exceptions  to  general  rules,  —  and  being  young,  believed 
that,  given  a  good  fellow  with  a  gun,  Nature  would  provide  a  victim. 
Therefore  he  proposed  that  we  should  canoe  it  along  the  shallows  in 
this  sweetest  and 
stillest  of  all  the 
nights.  T  h  e 
senior  shook  his 
head  incredu- 
lously. Iglesias 
shook  his  head 
noddingly. 


LLff 


" '  Since  you  have  massacred  all 
the  bears,'  said  Iglesias,  *I  will  go 

lay  me  down  in  their  lair  in  the  barn.  If  you  find  me  cheek  by 
jowl  with  Ursa  Major  when  you  come  back,  make  a  pun  and  he 
will  go/ 

It  w^as  stiller  than  stillness  upon  the  lake.  Ripogenus,  it  seemed, 
liad  never  listened  to  such  silence  as  this.  Calm  never  could  have 
loeeii  so  beyond  the  notion  of  calm.    Stars  in  the  empyrean  and  stars 


194 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


in  Ripogenus  winked  at  each  otlier  across  ninety-nine  billions  of 
leagues  as  uninterruptedly  as  boys  at  a  boarding-school  table. 

"  I  knelt  amidships  in  the  birch  with  gun  and  rifle  on  either  side. 
The  pilot  gave  one  stroke  of  his  paddle,  and  we  floated  out  upon  what 
seemed  the  lake.  Whatever  we  were  poised  and  floating  upon  he 
hesitated  to  shatter  with  another  dip  of  his  paddle,  lest  he  should 
shatter  the  thin  basis,  and  sink  toward  heaven  and  the  stars. 

Presently  the  silence  seemed  to  demand  gentle  violence,  and  the 
unwavering  water  needed  slight  tremors  to  teach  it  the  tenderness  of 
its  calm;  then  my  guide  used  his  blade,  and  cut  into  glassiness. 

We  crept  noiselessly  along  by  the  lake-edge  within  the  shadows  of 
the  pines.  With  never  a  plash  we  slid.  Eare  drops  fell  from  the 
cautious  paddle  and  tinkled  on  the  surface,  overshot,  not  parted,  by 
our  imponderable  passage.  Sometimes  from  far  within  the  forest 
would  come  sounds  of  rustling  branches  or  crackling  twigs.  Some- 
body of  life  approaches  with  stealthy  tread.  Gentlier,  even  gentlier, 
my  steersman.  Take  up  no  pearly  drop  from  the  lake,  mother  of 
pearliness,  lest,  falling,  it  sound  too  loudly.  Somewhat  comes.  Let  it 
come  unterrified  to  our  ambush  among  the  shadows  by  the  shore. 

Somewhat,  something,  somebody,  was  coming,  perhaps,  but  some 
other  thing  or  body  thwarted  it  and  it  came  not.  To  glide  over  glassi- 
ness while  uneventful  moments  link  themselves  into  hours  is  monoto- 
nous. Kight  and  stillness  laid  their  soothing  spell  upon  me.  I  was 
entranced.  I  lost  myself  out  of  time  and  space,  and  seemed  to  be 
floating  unimpelled  and  purposeless,  nowhere  in  Forever. 

Somewhere  in  Kow  I  suddenly  found  myself. 

There  he  was.  There  was  the  moose  trampling  and  snorting  hard 
by,  in  the  shaliows  of  Eipogenus,  trampling  out  of  being  the  whole 
nadir  of  stars,  making  the  world  conscious  of  its  lost  silence  by  the 
death  of  silence  in  tumult. 

I  trembled  with  sudden  eagerness.  I  seized  my  gun.  In  another 
instant  I  should  have  lodged  the  fatal  pellet,  when  a  voice  whispered 
over  my  shoulder,  '  I  kinder  guess  yer've  ben  asleep  an'  dreamin', 
ha'n't  yer 

So  I  had. 

Never  a  moose  came  down  to  cool  his  clumsy  snout  in  the  water, 
and  swallow  reflections  of  stars.  Never  a  moose  abandoned  dry-browse 
in  the  bitter  woods  for  succulent  lily-pads,  fall  in  their  cells  and  veins 
of  water  and  sunlight.  Till  long  past  midnight  we  paddled,  and 
watched,  and  listened,  whisperless.    In  vain.    At  last,  as  we  rounded 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS.  195 

a  point,  the  level  gleam  of  our  dying  camp-fire  athwart  the  water  re- 
minded us  of  passing  hour  and  traveller  duties,  of  rest  to-night  and 
toil  to-morrow. 

'*My  companions,  fearless  as  if  there  were  no  bears  this  side  of 


Ursa  Major,  were  bivouacked  in  one  of  the  barns.  There  I  entered 
skulkingly,  as  a  gameless  hunter  may,  and  hid  my  untropliied  head 
beneath  a  mound  of  ancient  hay,  not  without  the  mustiness  of  its  age. 


and  were  full-dressed  with- 


out more  ceremony,  ready  for  whatever  grand  sensation  Nature  might 
purvey  for  our  aesthetic  breakfast. 

Nothing  is  ever  as  we  expect.  When  we  stepped  into  out-of-doors, 
looking  for  Ripogenus,  a  lake  of  Maine,  we  found  not  a  single  aquatic 
fact  in  the  landscape.  Ripogenus,  a  lake,  had  mizzled  (as  the  Ameri- 
cans say),  literally  mizzled.  Our  simplified  view  comprised  a  grassy 
hill  with  barns,  and  a  stern  positive  pyramid,  surely  Ktaadn;  and 


196 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


aloft,  beyond,  above,  below,  thither,  hither,  and  yon.  Fog,  —  not  fog, 
but  FOG. 

"  Ripogenus,  the  water-body,  had  had  aspirations,  and  a  boon  of 
brief  transfiguration  into  a  cloud-body  had  been  granted  it  by  Nature, 
who  grants  to  every  terrestrial  essence  prophetic  experiences  of  what 
it  one  day  would  be. 

*'In  short,  and  to  repeat,  Ripogenus  had  transmuted  itself  into 
vapor,  and  filled  the  valley  full  to  our  feet.  A  faint  wind  had  power 
to  billow  this  mist-lake,  and  drive  cresting  surges  up  against  tlie 
eastern  hillside,  over  which  they  sometimes  broke,  and,  involving  it 
totally,  rolled  clear  and  free  toward  Ktaadn,  where  lie  stood  hiding 
the  glows  of  sunrise.  Leagues  liigher  up  than  the  mountain  rested  a 
presence  of  cirri,  already  white  and  luminous  with  full  daylight,  and 
from  them  drooped  linking  wreaths  of  orange  mist,  clinging  to  the 
rosy  violet  granite  of  the  peak. 

'*Up  clomb  and  sailed  Ripogenus  and  befogged  the  whole;  then  we 
condescended  to  breakfast. 

Singularly  enough,  mill-dams  are  always  found  below  mill-ponds. 
Analogously  in  the  Maine  rivers,  below  the  lakes,  rapids  are.  Rapids 
too  often  compel  carries.  While  we  breakfasted  without  steak  of 
bear  or  cutlet  of  moose,  Ripogenus  gradually  retracted  itself,  and 
became  conscious  again  of  what  poetry  there  is  in  a  lake's  pause  and 
a  rapid's  flow.  Fog  condensed  into  w^ater,  and  water  submitting  to 
its  destiny  went  cascading  down  through  a  wild  defile  where  no  birch 
could  follow. 

*'The  Ripogenus  carry  is  three  miles  long,  a  faint  path  through 
thickets. 

^'  ^  First  half,'  said  Cancut,  ^'s  plain  enough;  but  after  that  'twould 
take  a  philosopher  with  his  spectacles  on  to  find  it.' 

''This  was  discouraging.  Philosophers  twain  we  might  deem  our- 
selves; but  what  is  a  craftsi]Qan  without  tools?  And  never  a  goggle 
had  we. 

''  But  the  trappers  of  musk-rats  had  become  our  fast  friends.  They 
insisted  upon  lightening  our  loads  over  the  brambly  league.  This 
was  kindly.  Cancut' s  elom^ated  head-piece,  the  birch,  was  his  share 
of  the  burden;  and  a  bag  of  bread,  a  firkin  of  various  grub,  damp 
blankets  for  three,  and  nuiltitudinous  traps,  seemed  more  than  two 
could  carry  at  one  trip  over  this  longest  and  roughest  of  portages. 

''  We  paddled  from  the  camp  to  the  lake-foot,  and  there,  while  the 
others  compacted  the  portables  for  portage,  Iglesias  and  I,  at  cost  of  a 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


197 


ducking  with  mist-drops  from  the  thickets,  scrambled  up  a  crag  for  a 
supreme  view  of  the  fair  lake  and  the  clear  mountain.  And  we  did 
well.    Ktaadn,  from  the  hill  guarding  the  exit  of  the  Penobscot  from 


than  any 
those  that 
stop  short 
of  the 
venerable 
J"  honors  of 
*  eternal 
snow.  We 
trod  the 

trail,  we  others,  easier  than  Cancut.  He  found  it  hard  to  thread 
the  mazes  of  an  overgrown  path  and  navigate  his  canoe  at  the  same 
time.  *  Better,'  thought  he,  as  he  staggered  and  plunged  and  bumped 
along,  extricating  his  boat-bonnet  now  from  a  bower  of  raspberry- 
bushes,  now  from  the  branches  of  a  brotherly  birch-tree,  —  '  better,' 


198  GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 

thought  he,  '  were  I  seated  in  what  I  bear,  and  bounding  gayly  over 
the  billow.    Peril  is  better  than  pother.' 

Bushwhacking  thus  for  a  league,  we  circumvented  the  peril,  and 
came  upon  the  river  flowing  fair  and  free.  The  trappers  said  adieu, 
and  launched  us.  Back  then  they  went  to  consult  their  traps,  and 
flay  their  fragrant  captives,  and  we  shot  forward. 

''That  was  a  day  all  poetry  and  music.  Mountain  airs  bent  and 
blunted  the  noonday  sunbeams.  There  was  a  shade  of  delicate 
birches  on  either  hand,  whenever  we  loved  to  linger.  Our  feather- 
shallop  went  dancing  on,  fleet  as  the  current,  and  whenever  a  passion 
for  speed  came,  after  moments  of  luxurious  sloth,  we  could  change 
floating  at  the  river's  will  into  leaps  and  chasing,  with  a  few  strokes 
of  the  paddle.  All  was  untouched,  unvisited  wilderness,  and  we  from 
bend  to  bend  the  first  discoverers.  So  we  might  fancy  ourselves;  for 
civilization  had  been  here  only  to  cut  pines,  not  to  plant  houses.  Yet 
these  fair  curves,  and  liberal  reaches,  and  bright  rapids  of  the  birchen- 
bowered  river  were  only  solitary,  not  lonely.  It  is  never  lonely  with 
Nature.  Without  unnatural  men  or  unnatural  beasts,  she  is  capital 
society  by  herself.  And  so  we  found  her,  —  a  lovely  being,  in  perfect 
toilet,  which  I  describe,  in  an  indiscriminating,  masculine  way,  by 
saying  that  it  was  a  forest  and  a  river  and  lakes  and  a  mountain  and 
doubtless  sky,  all  made  resplendent  by  her  judicious  disposition  of  a 
most  becoming  light.  Iglesias  and  I,  being  old  friends,  were  received 
into  close  intimacy.  She  smiled  upon  us  unaffectedly,  and  had  a 
thousand  exquisite  things  to  say,  drawing  us  out  also,  with  feminine 
tact,  to  say  our  best  things,  and  teaching  us  to  be  conscioiiB,  in  her 
presence,  of  more  delicate  possibilities  of  refinement  and  a  tenderer 
poetic  sense.  So  we  voyaged  through  the  sunny  hours  and  were 
happy. 

''  Yet  there  was  no  monotony  in  our  progress.  We  could  not  always 
drift  and  glide.  Sometimes  we  must  fight  our  way.  Below  the  placid 
reaches  were  the  inevitable  'rips'  and  rapids;  some  we  could  shoot 
without  hitting  anything;  some  would  hit  us  heavily,  did  we  try  to 
shoot.  Whenever  the  rocks  in  the  current  were  only  as  thick  as  the 
plums  in  a  boarding-school  pudding,  we  could  venture  to  run  the 
gantlet;  whenever  they  multiplied  to  a  school-boy's  ideal,  we  were 
arrested.  Just  at  the  brink  of  peril  we  would  sweep  in  by  an  eddy 
into  a  shady  pool  by  the  shore.  At  such  spots  we  found  a  path  across 
the  carry.  Cancut  at  once  proceeded  to  bonnet  himself  with  the  trick- 
ling birch.    Iglesias  and  I  took  up  the  packs  and  hurried  on  with 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


199 


minds  intent  on  berries.  Berries  we  always  found,  —  blueberries 
•covered  with  a  cloudy  bloom,  blueberries,  pulpy,  saccharine,  plenteous. 

Often,  when  a  portage  was  not  quite  necessary,  a  dangerous  bit  of 
white  water  would  require  the  birch  to  be  lightened.  Cancut  must 
steer  her  alone  over  the  foam,  while  we,  springing  ashore,  raced 
through  the  thick  of  the  forest,  tore  through  the  briers,  and  plunged 
through  the  punk  of  trees  older  than  history,  now  rotting  where  they 
fell,  slain  by  Time,  the  giganticide.  Cancut  then  had  us  at  advantage. 
Sometimes  we  had  laughed  at  him,  when  he,  a  good-humored  mala- 
prop,  made  vague  clutches  at  the  thread  of  discourse.  Now  suppose 
he  should  take  a  fancy  to  drop  down  stream  and  leave  us.  What 
then  ?  Berries  then,  and  little  else,  unless  we  had  a  chance  at  a  trout 
or  a  partridge.  It  is  not  cheery,  but  dreary,  to  be  left  in  patlilessness, 
blanketless,  guideless,  and  with  breadths  of  lake  and  mountain  and 
Kature,  shaggy  and  bearish,  between  man  and  man.  With  the  con- 
sciousness of  a  latent  shudder  in  our  hearts  at  such  a  possibility,  we 
parted  brier  and  bramble  until  the  rapid  was  passed,  we  scuffled  hastily 
through  to  the  river-bank,  and  there  always  in  some  quiet  nook  was  a 
beacon  of  red-flannel  shirt  among  the  green  leaves  over  the  blue  and 
shadowy  water,  and  always  the  fast-sailing  Cancut  awaiting  us, 
making  the  woods  resound  to  amicable  hails,  and  ready  again  to  be 
joked  and  to  retaliate. 

Such  alternations  made  our  voyage  a  charming  olla.  We  had  the 
placid  glide,  the  fleet  dash,  the  wild  career,  the  pause,  the  landing, 
the  agreeable  interlude  of  a  portage,  and  the  unburdened  stampede 
along  shore.  Thus  we  won  our  way,  or  our  way  wooed  us  on,  until 
in  early  afternoon  a  lovely  lakelet  opened  before  us.  The  fringed 
shores  retired,  and  as  we  shot  forth  upon  wider  calm,  lo,  Ktaadn!  un- 
looked  for,  at  last,  as  a  revelation.  Our  boat  ruffled  its  shadow,  doing 
pretty  violence  to  its  dignity,  that  we  might  know  the  greater  grandeur 
of  the  substance.  There  was  a  gentle  agency  of  atmosphere  softening 
the  bold  forms  of  this  startling  neighbor,  and  giving  it  distance,  lest 
^ve  might  fear  it  would  topple  and  crush  us.  Clouds,  level  below,  hid 
the  summit,  and  towered  aloft.  Among  them  we  might  imagine  the 
mountain  rising  with  thousands  more  of  feet  of  heaven-i)iercing 
height.  There  is  one  degree  of  sublimity  in  mystery,  as  there  is  an- 
other degree  in  certitude. 

*'We  lay  to  in  a  shady  nook,  just  off  Ktaadn's  reflection  in  the 
river,  while  Iglesias  sketched  him.  Meanwhile  I,  analyzing  my  view, 
presently  discovered  a  droll  image  in  the  track  of  a  land-avalanche 


200 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


down  the  front.  It  was  a  comical  fellow,  a  little  giant,  a  colossal 
dwarf,  six  hundred  feet  high,  and  should  have  been  thrice  as  tall,  had 
it  had  any  proper  development,  —  for  out  of  his  head  grew  two  mis- 
directed skeleton  legs,  '  hanging  down  and  dangling.'  The  counte- 
nance was  long,  elfin,  sneering,  solemn,  as  of  a  truculent  demon,  sad- 
dish  for  his  trade,  an  ashamed,  but  unrepentant  rascal.  He  had  two 
immense,  erect  ears,  and  in  his  boisterous  position  had  suffered  a  loss 
of  hair,  wearing  nothing  save  an  impudent  scalp-lock.  A  very  gro- 
tesque personage.  Was  he  the  guardian  imp,  the  legendary  Eft  of 
Ktaadn,  scoffing  already  at  us  as  verdant,  and  warning  that  he  would 
make  us  unhappy  if  we  essayed  to  appear  on  Brocken  heights  without 
initiation  ? 

^  A  terrible  pooty  mountain,'  Cancut  observed;  and  so  it  is. 
*'Not  to  fail  in  topographical  duty,  I  record,  that  near  this  lakelet 
flows  in  the  river  Nesowadnehunk,  and  not  far  below  a  sister  stream- 
let, hardly  less  melodiously  named,  Aboljackarmegas.  Opposite  the 
latter  we  landed  and  encamped,  with  Ktaadn  full  in  front,  and  broadly 
visible." 

The  gorge  below  Ripogenus  Lake  is  well  worth  looking  at,  and  we 
present  our  readers  with  several  illustrations  made  at  and  below  Ripo- 
genus. The  carry  begins  at  the  east  end  of  the  lake,  on  the  right  of 
the  outlet.  After  walking  a  mile,  you  descend  a  short  hill,  and,  on 
the  right,  in  sight  from  the  road,  is  Carry  Pond,  formerly  well  filled 
with  trout,  which  were  taken  on  the  farther  side  near  a  spring  hole. 
If  is  now  pretty  well  fished  out,  but  a  few  are  taken  each  season. 
Half  a  mile  beyond  this  pond,  on  the  road,  is  a  large  bowlder,  in  the 
middle  of  a  small  clearing,  and  its  top  commands  an  extensive  view 
down  the  valley,  with  Ktaadn  beyond  to  the  left.  A  short  distance 
beyond  the  bowlder,  you  cross  a  small  brook,  and  on  the  east  side  a 
path  turns  off  to  the  left,  and  ends  at  the  river,  where  canoes  are 
sometimes  launched.  Half  a  mile  beyond  the  brook  you  reach  an  old 
river-drivers'  camp;  from  here  a  path  leads  down  to  the  *' Arches," 
another  bad  place  in  the  river.  A  mile  from  here  is  the  end  of  the 
carry.  It  is  safer,  and  on  the  whole  quicker,  to  '*sack"  everything 
the  whole  length  of  the  carry,  than  to  **put  in"  at  the  mouth  of  the 
brook,  on  account  of  the  dangers  below;  and  even  if  these  are  escaped, 
one  must  lift  over  or  carry  round  in  three  different  places.  Starting 
from  the  lower  end  of  the  carry,  you  float  swiftly  on,  a  strong  current 
aiding  you,  until  you  reach  a  rocky  pitch,  where  you  will  have  to  lift 
over,  and  three  miles  from  the  carry  you  reach  Gulliver  Pitch,  or 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


201 


Ambajemackomus  Falls.  The  carry  is  about  a  third  of  a  mile  long, 
and  is  on  the  right.  Below  Gulliver  Pitch  begins  the  Horse-race," 
extending  for  nearly  two  miles,  and  within  a  short  distance  of  the 
dead  water.    This  is  a  bad  piece  of  rapids,  and  perhaps  one  of  the 


hibition  of  coolness  and 


skill;  but  this  dangerous  run  once  safely  made,  you  float  out  on  the 
bulge  in  the  river  known  as  the  Nesowadnehunk  Dead  Water,  and 
paddle  a  mile  and  a  half  to  its  lower  end,  from  where  you  get  a  splendid 
view  off  to  the  east  of  Old  Ktaadn,  with  whom  you  now  feel  quite  well 


202 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE. 


acquainted.  A  good  path  follows  the  Horse-race  "  on  the  south  bank 
of  the  river  as  far  as  the  dead  water,  and  there  is  a  nice  spring  at  the 
end  of  it.  From  Nesowadnehunk  Dead  Water,  a  short  run  brings  us 
to  the  carry  on  the  left.  Be  careful  and  not  pass  it,  as  the  falls  below 
are  five  feet  high,  and  it  would  be  dangerous  to  be  swept  over  them. 
The  carry  is  short,  and  just  below  it  on  the  same  side  is  another  palat- 
able spring.  Half  a  mile  beyond  the  falls,  on  the  left,  Nesowadnehunk 
Stream  flows  in;  below  here  for  two  miles  is  dead  water,  and  you  soon 
paddle  its  length  to  the  mouths  of  Aboljackarmegas  and  Aboljackar- 
megassic,  or  Sandy  Stream.  At  this  point,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
river,  parties  usually  camp  if  they  intend  to  ascend  Ktaadn.  And 
here  let  me  say  that  there  is  not  another  mountain  in  [N'ew  England, 
not  even  Mount  Washington,  that  will  pay  you  so  well  for  making  its 
ascent  as  Ktaadn.  There  is  good  trout  fishing  at  the  mouths  of  the 
two  Abol.  Streams,  and  eels  are  sometimes  caught  there.  But  if  the 
reader  is  of  the  writer's  opinion,  a  little  fresh-water  eel  will  go  a  good 
way. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


THE  ASCENT  OF  3IOUNT  KTAADN  — FOUR  DIFFERENT 
ACCOUNTS. 


1  HE  ascent  of  Ktaadn  is  usually  made 
by  parties  taking  the  West  Branch 
Tour  from  the  moutli  of  Sandy  Stream, 
following  the  path  laid  down  on  our 
map.  Having  never  made  the  ascent 
of  the  mountain,  we  relate  the  expe- 
rience of  several  who  have.  We  quote 
the  following  from  Springer's  "  For- 
est Life  and  Forest  Trees:  "  — 

Our  travellers,  after  having  made 
the  ascent  of  the  river  to  the  proper 
point,  and  made  the  necessaiy  ar- 
I'angements  for  their  journey  up  the 
mountain,  ^  entered  the  slide  at  eight 
o'clock,'  one  morning  in  the  early  part 
of  September,  and  found  its  ascent  quite  steep,  *  though  not  difficult  or 
dangerous  at  all  when  one  takes  time.' 

^'  On  almost  all  sides  of  the  mountain  there  is  a  short,  tangled 
growth  of  alders  and  white  birch  coming  up  between  the  rocks. 
These,  being  kept  down  by  the  winds,  grow  into  an  almost  impassa- 
ble bramble.  At  a  distance  it  has  a  beautiful,  sm.ooth  appearance, 
like  a  green,  grassy  hill,  or  what  one  of  the  company  called  a  'piece 
of  oats.'  The  slide  serves  as  a  path  up  through  all  this  tangle,  reach- 
ing to  the  top  of  the  southeastern  ridge  of  the  mountain,  which  is 
above  all  timber  growth,  making  about  one-third  of  the  whole  per- 
pendicular height  of  Ktaadn,  to  which  the  ascent  of  the  brook  below 
w^ould  add  another  third. 

"Although  it  was  hard  climbing,  we  ascended  pretty  fast,  and  the 
clear  morning  air  gave  an  indescribable  beauty  to  the  prospect  below. 

203 


204 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAB  LAKE 


The  most  pleasing  was  the  constant  change  and  variety  caused  by  our 
rapid  ascent.  It  was  known  that  the  mountain/ at  this  season  of  the 
year,  is  frequented  by  bears  in  pursuit  of  cranberries ;  but  we  did  not 


silence  in  hopes  of  obtaining  a  shot.  I  re- 
mained with  the  rear,  to  see  all  up  safe.  The  most  zealous  *  went 
ahead,'  and  were  soon  out  of  sight,  until,  near  the  head  of  the 
slide,  we  heard  them  from  the  distant  topmost  peaks  calling  out, 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


205 


^ Come  on,  ye  braves!'    At  this  distance  they  looked  very  small  in 
^  stature.    From  the  head  of  the  slide  we  turned  to  the 

left,  and  ascended  northwest  to  the  first  and  most  eastern 

peak:  by  this  time  our 
conn-ades  had  reached 
the  most  western.  AVe 
here  paused  to  view  our 
position.  It  is,  perhaps, 
the  most  favorable  spot 
for  surveying  the  whole 
structure.  From  thence 
the  principal  peaks  are 
in  a  curved  line,  going 


;south-west,  then 
west  and  north- 
west. The  second 
peak,  called  by  us 
the  '  Chimney,'  is 
near  the  first,  but 
separated  by  a 
sharp  cut,  one 
hundred  and  fifty 
or  two  hundred 
feet  deep,  and 
nearly  square  in 
its  form.  We  had 
seen  one  of  our 

comrades  upon  its  summit,  else  w^e  might  not  have  attempted  the 
.ascent.    His  zeal  seemed  to  blind  him  to  danger,  for,  when  questioned 


206 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


on  our  return,  lie  could  neither  tell  wJien  or  how  he  ascended.  Our 
first  plan  was  to  pass  around  the  base  without  going  over  the  top; 
but  this  we  found  impossible,  and  were  about  to  give  up,  when  one 
pointed  out  a  diagonal  course,  where,  by  taking  a  few  pretty  long 
steps,  he  thought  we  could  ascend.  I  tried  first,  and  succeeded,  and 
all  followed  but  two.  From  the  '  Chimney '  we  went  from  one  ham- 
mock to  another,  making,  on  the  whole,  a  gradual  ascent,  till  we 
reached  the  middle  of  the  principal  peaks,  a  distance  of  nearly  half 
a  mile.  There  we  met  our  comrades  on  their  return  from  the  western 
peak,  and  all  sat  down  to  rest.  Here  we  found  a  monument  that  had 
been  erected  by  some  former  visitor,  but  was  overgrown  with  moss, 
appearing  lonely,  as  if  it  had  seen  no  relations  for  years.  On  the 
first  and  most  eastern  peak  all  the  monuments  which  I  had  made  the 
year  previous  looked  new  and  fresh.  It  is  not  easy  to  decide  which 
of  the  two  (the  western  and  middle  peaks)  is  highest.  Judgment  was^ 
given  in  favor  of  the  middle  one. 

"While  sitting  on  the  south  side  of  the  monument,  at  twelve 
o'clock,  we  put  the  thermometer  in  a  favorable  place,  and  it  went  up 
to  84°.  At  the  same  time,  on  the  north  side,  and  six  feet  from  us, 
water  was  freezing,  and  the  snow  dry  and  crusty.  Near  by  the  monu- 
ment a  rock  stood  in  its  natural  position,  having  a  sharp  peak  in  the 
top.  This  was  the  highest  one  of  the  kind.  Of  this  about  four  inches 
were  broken  off,  and  one  of  the  company  carried  it  home  with  the 
conviction  that  we  had  lowered  the  height  of  Ktaadn  to  that  amount. 
About  two  o'clock  we  returned  to  the  eastern  peak.  It  may  be  well  to- 
pause  here  and  take  a  resurvey  of  the  scene  thus  far  presented,  and 
as  much  more  as  can  be  viewed  from  the  point. 

"From  this  eastern  peak  a  spur  makes  out  eastward  one  mile. 
Half  a  mile  down,  however,  it  divides,  and  a  branch  runs  to  the  north- 
east to  the  same  distance.  On  the  southwest,  across  the  cut,  is  the 
^Chimney.'  From  this  the  line  of  peaks  and  hammocks  curves  to  the 
west  till  it  reaches  the  middle  and  highest  peak.  From  one  hammock 
to  the  other  there  are,  in  all,  thirty  rods  of  narrow  passes.  Some  of 
them  are  so  narrow  that  a  man  could  drop  a  stone  from  either  hand, 
and  it  would  go  to  unknown  depths  below.  In  some  places  the  only 
possible  way  is  over  the  top,  and  only  one  foot  wide.  For  a  great  part 
of  the  time  the  wind  blows  across  these  passes  so  violently  that  the 
stones  themselves  have  to  be  firmly  fixed  to  keep  their  places.  It 
seemed  remarkable,  as  if  for  our  convenience,  that  the  day  of  our 
visit  was  still  and  quiet.    From  the  middle  peak  the  line  curves  to  the 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


207 


northwest,  to  the  further  monument.  From  this  point  a  branch 
makes  down  to  the  southwest,  having  on  it  some  extensive  table- 
lauds,  while  the  top  ridge  or  curve  turns  directly  north  with  the  *  sag.^ 


about  equal  in  height  to  the  east- 
ern peak  of  the  northern  wing.  This  is  probably  the  highest  of  the 
northern  peaks,  from  which  a  spur  makes  down,  a  little  south  of  east, 
to  within  one  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  one  that  comes  from  the  south- 
ern wing.  All  this  nearly  includes  a  deep  basin,  with  walls  almost  per- 
pendicular, and  in  some  places  apparently  two  thousand  feet  high. 
To  survey  the  bottom  of  this  basin  I  have  since  made  a  separate 


208 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


journey.  It  contains,  perhaps,  two  hundred  acres,  covered  with  large 
square  blocks  of  granite  that  seem  to  have  come  from  the  surrounding 
wall.  There  are  in  all  six  lakes  and  ponds,  varying  in  size  from  two 
to  ten  acres.    One  of  them  I  crossed  on  ice  the  15tli  of  October. 

^'Froni  its  outlet  inward  to  the  southwest  is  about  a  mile,  where 
there  is  a  small  lake  of  clear  water  which  has  no  visible  outlet.  So 
far  as  I  can  learn,  I  was  the  first  human  visitor  to  this  fabled  resi- 
dence of  the  Indians'  Pamolah.  It  is  not  strange  that  a  superstitious 
people  should  have  many  traditions  of  his  wonderful  pranks,  and  be 
kept  away  from  close  engagements  with  such  a  foe.  When  we  reach 
the  lake  on  our  way  to  Ktaadn,  it  is  easy  to  see  the  origin  of  those 
fears  which  the  Indians  are  said  to  have  respecting  the  mountain  as 
the  residence  of  Pamolah  or  Big  Devil.  Clouds  form  in  the  basin, 
and  are  seen  whirling  out  in  all  directions.  Tradition  tells  a  '  long 
yarn '  about  a  '  handsome  squaw '  among  the  Penobscots,  who  once 
did  a  great  business  in  slaying  her  thousands  among  the  young  chiefs 
of  her  nation,  but  was  finally  taken  by  Pamolah  to  Ktaadn,  where  he 
now  protects  himself  and  his  prize  from  approaching  Indians  with  all 
his  artillery  of  thunder  and  hail. 

"  The  Indian  says  that  it  is  ^  sartin  true,  'cause  handsome  squaw 
always  ketch  em  deble; '  whether  this  be  true  or  not,  the  basin  is  the 
birthplace  of  storms,  and  I  have  myself  heard  the  roar  of  its  winds 
for  several  miles.  But  on  the  15th  of  October,  when  I  entered  it  and 
went  to  the  upper  lake,  all  was  still  as  the  house  of  nymphs,  except 
when  we  ourselves  spoke,  and  then  the  thousand  echoes  were  like  the 
response  of  fairies  bidding  us  welcome.  In  this  way  the  music  of  our 
voices  would  find  itself  in  the  midst  of  a  numerous  choir  singing  a 
*  round.'' 

'^The  upper  lake,  which  I  visited  and  went  around,  has  an  inlet,  a 
white,  pearly  brook,  coming  out  nearly  under  the  ^  Chimney '  and 
running  a  short  distence  through  alders  and  meadow  grass.  It  has 
no  visible  outlet,  but  on  the  north  side  it  seems  to  ooze  out  among 
the  rocks.  We  can  trace  this  water-course  curving  to  the  east  of 
north  till  it  reaches  the  lower  and  largest  lake,  from  which  flows  a 
brook  sufficiently  large  for  trout  to  run  up.  This  brook  curves  to  the 
south,  running  into  West  Branch,  and  is  called  Roaring  Brook.  The 
mountain  around  this  basin  is  in  the  form  of  a  horse-shoe,  opening  to 
the  ncfrtheast.  From  the  peak  on  the  northern  wing  there  is  another 
deep  gorge,  partly  encircled  with  a  curving  ridge,  which  some  would 
call  another  basin.    On  the  north  side  of  this  gorge  there  is  a  peak 


AND   NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


209 


nearly  equal  in  height  to  the  one  on  the  south  of  it,  but  considerably 
further  east,  making  this  northern  basin  or  open  gorge  open  to  the 
southeast.  These  two  basins,  from  some  points  of  view,  seem  to 
be  one.  From  the  last-mentioned  peak  the  mountain  slopes  off  from 
one  peak  or  shoulder  to  another,  perhaps  three  miles,  before  it  reaches 
the  timber  growth.  Some  of  the  branches  of  the  Wassataquoik  come 
from  this  northern  part,  but  some  of  them  from  the  basin  or  southern 
part  of  Ktaadn. 

Eough  granite,  moss-covered  rocks  are  spread  over  its  whole  sur- 
face from  the  short  growth  upward.  Blueberries  and  cranberries  grow 
far  up  the  sides.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  considerable  snow  lay  on 
its  summits  and  lined  the  walls  of  the  great  basin.  The  party,  of 
course,  found  plenty  of  drink.  The  Avalanche  Brook,  having  its 
source  about  the  middle  of  the  slide,  furnished  water  pure  as  crystal. 
The  ascent  was  attended  with  some  danger  and  fatigue.  But  what  a 
view  when  the  utmost  heights  are  gained!  What  a  magnificent  pano- 
rama of  forests,  lakes,  and  distant  mountains!  The  surface  of  the 
earth,  with  its  many  tinted  verdure,  resembled,  in  form  and  smooth- 
ness, the  swelling  sea.  In  the  course  of  the  forenoon,  light  fogs  from 
all  the  lakes  ascended,  and,  coming  to  Ktaadn,  intertwined  themselves 
most  fantastically  above  our  heads,  then  settled  down  and  dispersed. 
But  what  can  be  fitly  said  about  the  vast  expanse  of  the  heavens,  to 
be  seen  from  such  an  elevation,  especially  when  the  sun  goes  down, 
and  the  glowing  stars  appear  in  silent  majesty?  All  the  gorgeous, 
artificial  brilliancy  of  man's  invention  is  more  than  lost  iu  the  com- 
parison. Ijanguage  has  no  power  to  describe  a  scene  of  this  nature. 
The  height  of  Ktaadn  above  the  level  of  the  sea  is  five  thousand  three 
hundred  feet.  Its  position  is  isolated,  and  its  structure  an  immense 
curiosity.  From  its  summit  very  few  populous  places  are  visible,  so 
extensive  is  the  intervening  wilderness.  On  its  sides  the  growth  of 
wood  is  beautiful,  presenting  a  regular  variation  in  altitude  and  size 
all  the  way  up  to  the  point  where  it  ceases. 

The  great  basin  described  by  Mr.  Keep  was  to  none  of  us  an  infe- 
rior object  of  interest.  Want  of  time  and  strength  prevented  our 
descent  into  it.  It  is  open  to  general  inspection  from  all  the  heights 
around  it.  The  day  being  quiet,  the  view  was  divested  of  much  of  its 
terror;  but  we  could  readily  believe  it  the  abode  of  all  the  furies  in  a 
storm,  and  where  the  polar  monarch  has  his  chief  residence  in  Maine. 
We  called  to  each  other  across  t'lie  basin,  and  echo  answered  '  Where! ' 
in  earnest.  The  air  was  exhilarating,  as  may  be  supposed,  but  the 
effect  not  as  sensible  as  we  anticipated. 


210 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


The  whole  party  returned  to  the  head  of  the  slide  at  three  o'clock 
and  engaged  in  picking  cranberries.  These  grow  on  all  parts  of  the 
mountain  above'the  timber  region,  and  no  doubt  annually  yield  many 
thousand  bushels.  '  They  grow  on  vines  among  the  rocks,  and  are 
commonly  called  the  mountain  or  highland  cranberry.  They  are 
smaller  than  the  meadow  cranberry,  but  of  a  better  flavor.' 

At  four  o'clock  six  of  the  party  went  down  to  the  camp  to  pre- 
pare fuel  for  the  Sabbath.  Our  guide  and  the  gunner  remained  at 
the  head  of  the  slide  all  night,  and  kept  a  fire  with  old  roots ;  yet  it 
was  presumed  that  they  had  now  and  then  a  little  cold  comfort.  The 
result  of  their  stay  is  thus  set  forth  by  Mr.  Keep :  — 

*  On  Sabbath  morning  the  eastern  horizon  was  clear  of  clouds, 
and  we  looked  anxiously  for  the  sun.  Just  before  it  came  up,  a 
bright  streak  appeared  of  silver  whiteness,  like  the  reflected  light  of 
the  moon.  We  could  see  the  further  outline  of  land  quite  plain,  and 
for  a  short  distance  beyond  was  this  silvery  streak.  Soon  a  small  arc 
of  the  sun  appeared  above  this  bright  line.  I  was  hardly  able  to  con- 
trol my  emotions  while  the  whole  came  in  sight.  On  Saturday  night, 
about  sundown,  our  view  of  the  country  around  was  more  distinct  and 
enchanting,  —  a  boundless  wilderness  in  all  directions,  much  of  the 
view  being  south  of  the  lakes.  Of  the  latter,  not  far  from  two  hun- 
dred are  to  be  seen  dotting  the  landscape.  In  one  of  them  we  can 
count  one  hundred  islands.  Soon  after  sunrise  on  Sabbath  morning 
we  went  down  to  the  camp  to  spend  the  day  with  the  company.' 

That  holy  morning  found  us  refreshed,  and  somewhat  prepared 
to  appreciate  our  peculiar  circumstances.  The  weather  was  charm- 
ing. The  air  resounded  with  the  pleasing  murmur  of  the  Avalanche 
Brook,  as  it  flowed  down  over  its  bed  of  rocksf  nor  was  the  song  of 
birds  denied  us.  Gentle  breezes  stirred  the  beautiful  foliage  of  the 
circling  woods.  Impressive  stillness  reigned,  and  the  whole  scene  was 
adapted  to  waken  happy  and  exuberant  emotions. 

^'  Early  we  mounted  some  rock  on  the  bank  of  the  stream  toward 
the  rising  sun,  and  overlooking  a  vast  region  of  country,  and  there 
poured  forth  sacred  melody  to  our  hearts'  content.  The  echo  was 
glorious.  Yerily  we  thought  our  '  feet  were  set  in  a  large  place; '  and 
we  could  readily  imagine  that  the  wide  creation  had  found  a  tongue 
with  which  our  own  exulted  in  unison. 

At  the  hour  appointed  we  assembled  in  the  camp,  and  engaged  in 
the  exercises  of  a  religious  conference.  It  was  good  to  be  there,  and 
we  enjoyed  the  experience.    The  day,  the  place,  the  topics  of  re- 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


211 


marks,  the  songs  of  Zion, — all  encircled  by  a  kind  Providence,  and 
made  effective  by  the  presence  of  God,  will  ever  be  worthy  of  a  grate- 
ful  remembrance. 

In  the  afternoon,  by  request,  Rev.  Mr.  Munsell  addressed  us  from 
the  11th  verse  of  the  145th  Psalm:  *  They  shall  speak  of  the  glory  of 
thy  kingdom,  and  talk  of  thy  power.'  Our  position  added  deep  inter- 
est to  the  theme  of  discourse,  and  naturally  furnished  much  ground 
for  illustration.  Indeed,  the  entire  services  of  the  day  were  attended 
with  peculiar  influences,  being  had  under  circumstances  so  widely 
different  from  the  ordinary  life  of  the  company. 

That  Sabbath  was  our  delight,  even  in  the  face  of  a  possible  defi- 
ciency in  food.  But  the  course  adopted  imparted  bodily  rest  and  a 
peaceful  mind. 

*'We  had  travelled  with  burdens  on  our  backs  twenty-five  miles, 
crossed  several  streams,  climbed  rough  hills,  walked  on  rocky  places, 
tumbled  over  huge  trunks  of  fallen  trees,  crowded  through  plenty  of 
jungle,  waded  the  Avalanche  Brook, — and  all  this  in  forbidding 
weather;  but,  aside  from  the  glorious  view  on  the  summit  of  Ktaadn, 
our  toil  found  its  recompense  in  the  novelty  and  influence  of  a  Sab- 
bath observance  on  such  an  elevation,  and  amid  the  wild  scenes  and 
solitudes  of  a  mountain  forest. 

Scarcity  of  food,  and  the  engagements  of  some  of  the  party,  made 
it  necessary  on  Monday  morning  to  start  for  home.  We  left  the  camp 
about  half-past  nine,  following  down  the  brook  to  the  point  from 
whence  we  ascended,  and  then  direct  to  the  lake. 

'''At  this  time,'  says  our  guide,  'we  fell  into  much  confusion  on 
account  of  two  of  the  company  who  were  missing,  the  gunner  and 
Mr.  Meservey,  for  whom  we  made  search,  but  in  vain.  Few  can 
imagine  our  feelings  save  those  who  have  heard  the  cry  of  lost  coming 
up  from  the  deep  gloom  of  the  wilderness  in  the  native  tone  of  some 
wanderer  calling  for  help.  After  consultation,  it  was  resolved  that 
we  must  leave  the  ground  for  home,  hoping  for  the  best.  We  left  at 
one,  and  came  to  the  lake  at  four  p.m.,  and  here,  to  our  great  joy,  we 
saw  a  smoke  on  the  opposite  side,  near  the  outlet,  and  at  five  rejoined 
our  missing  companions.  They  had  caught  trout  enough  for  us  all, 
weighing  from  one  to  three  pounds.  With  these,  and  cranberry  sauce 
in  plenty,  also  bread,  pork,  and  tea,  we  made  merry  around  a  cheer- 
ful fire.  That  night,  however,  a  storm  of  rain  coming  up,  found  us 
poorly  prepared.' 

''  In  this  connection  an  incident  may  be  related.    Just  before  our 


212 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


arrival,  while  the  gunner  was  fishing,  suddenly  two  moose  bounded 
furiously  into  the  lake,  and  appeared  to  be  swimming  toward  him. 
Though  all  along  desirous  of  an  interview,  their  visit  was  rather 
too  startling.  He  scampered  with  all  haste  to  the  shore,  seized 
his  gun  and  fired,  but  the  balls  would  not  go  through  the  *  law,^ 
which,  at  that  season,  afforded  protection,  and  so  the  moose 
escaped. 

The  night  just  referred  to  was  a  time  of  realities.    Truth  proved 

*  stranger  than  fiction.'  Amid  anxiety  for  the  lost,  the  axe  had  been 
left  on  the  mountain.  A  pile  of  logs  lay  near  the  outlet  of  the  lake. 
With  some  of  these  our  missing  companions  had  made  a  fire;  some 
formed  the  floor  of  the  camp,  and  others,  used  as  rafters,  were  cov- 
ered with  boughs  for  protection,  but  not  from  rain.  On  the  above 
floor  (the  spot  allowing  no  other),  no  boughs  at  hand  could  make  a 
downy  bed.  Every  one  found  out  that  he  was  composed  of  flesh  and 
bones.  It  also  became  difficult  to  regulate  the  fire,  so  that  the  heat 
was  often  mtense.  Contrary  winds  would  ever  and  anon  drive  the 
smoke  into  the  camp,  and  thus  cause  great  involuntary  weeping. 
The  scene  was  felt,  and  few  could  find  sleep  without  stealing  it.  It  was 
visible  darkness  all  around.  Toward  midnight  the  rain  commenced. 
One  of  the  party,  writing  to  another  from  Lincoln  in  December,  says, 

*  Old  Mount  Ktaadn  from  this  place  looks  dreary  enough.  Its  snow- 
capped top  often  reminds  me  of  our  amusing  adventures;  but  nothing 
in  all  our  travels  affords  more  amusement  in  moments  of  meditation 
than  the  night  on  the  Pond  Dam.  That  old  plaid  cloak,  dripping  in 
the  rain;  its  occupant  upon  a  log  without  the  camp,  singing,  **The 
morning  light  is  breaking,"  when  it  was  only  one  o'clock;  and  then 
again,  "  He  shall  come  down  like  rain,"  etc.,  —  all  together  have  left 
an  impression  on  my  mind  not  soon  to  be  effaced.' 

The  occupant  of  that  *  cloak,'  unable  to  sleep,  conversed  with  the 

*  daughters  of  music,'  and  was  prompted  to  sing  the  night  out  and 
the  morning  in;  and  as  the  rain  increased,  the  whole  crew  joined 
heartily  in  the  chorus.  Our  departure  from  such  lodgings  was  very 
early.  Beneath  continual  droppings  from  the  trees  and  bushes,  we 
pressed  through  an  obstinate  pathway,  and  arrived  at  the  Wassata- 
quoik  camp  at  half-past  nine.  This  march  was  really  toilsome,  but 
brought  us  out  at  the  desired  point.  After  a  long  rest,  we  followed 
the  old  supply  road  most  of  the  way,  forded  the  Wassataquoik,  and 
came  out  opposite  Mr.  Hunt's,  whence  the  bateaux  took  us  across 
the  East  Branch  at  a  little  past  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.   Our  ap- 


AND  NOETH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


213 


pearance  was  far  from  beardless,  our  *  externals '  somewhat  ragged 


and  torn,  and  our  appetites  keen  as  a  '  Damascus  razor.' 
and  family  received  us  most  cordially,  having 
felt  some  anxiety  in  our  absence.    They  made 
us  joyful  around  a  full  table 
of  good  things.    On  the  day 
following,  Wednes- 
day, we  passed  to 
Mr.  C us h man's, 
and  on  Thursday 
took  conveyances 
for  home." 


'  Mine  host ' 


Another  visitor,  Dr.  Jackson,  to  this 
point  of  attraction  observes :  — 

While  I  was  engaged  in  noting  the  bearings  of  this  mountain,  the 
clouds  suddenly  darted  down  upon  its  summit,  and  concealed  it  from 
view,  while  we  could  observe  that  a  violent  snow-squall  was  paying 


214 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAI)  LAKE 


homage  to  Pomola,  the  demon  of  the  mountain.  Presently  the  storm 
ceased,  and  the  clouds,  having  thus  paid  their  tribute,  passed  on,  and 
left  the  mountain  white  with  snow.  This  took  place  on  the  20th  of 
September. 

"  Crossing  the  lake,  —  *  Millnoket,  a  most  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
containing  a  great  number  of  small  islands,  from  which  circumstance  it 
takes  its  name,'  —  we  reached  the  carrying-place  at  the  head  of  a  long 
creek,  where  we  pitched  our  camp  amid  a  few  poplar  trees,  which 
were  of  second  growth,  or  have  sprung  up  since  the  forests  were 
burned.  The  want  of  good  fuel  and  of  boughs  for  a  bed  was  severely 
felt,  since  we  were  obliged  to  repose  on  naked  rocks,  and  the  green 
poplar  trees  appeared  to  give  more  smoke  than  fire.  The  night  was 
cold,  and  the  wind  violent,  so  that  sleep  was  out  of  the  question. 
Early  in  the  morning  we  prepared  to  carry  our  boats  over  to  Ambajejus 
Lake,  and  the  labor  was  found  very  difficult,  since  the  water  was  low, 
and  we  had  to  traverse  a  long  tract  of  boggy  land  before  reaching  the 
other  lake. 

Tracks  of  moose  and  caribou  abound  in  the  mud,  since  they  fre- 
quent the  shallow  parts  of  the  lake,  to  feed  upon  the  lily-pads  or  the 
leaves  of  the  Nuphar  lutea,  which  here  abound.  A  noble-looking 
caribou  suddenly  started  from  the  woods,  and  trotted  quietly  along  the 
shores  of  the  lake  quite  near  us;  but  we  were  not  prepared  to  take 
him,  and  he  presently  darted  into  the  forest  and  disappeared. 

Our  provisions  having  been  reduced,  owing  to  the  circumstance 
that  our  journey  proved  much  longer  than  we  had  anticipated,  I 
thought  it  necessary  to  put  the  whole  party  on  a  regular  allowance, 
which  was  mutually  agreed  to.  Our  Indian,  Neptune,  succeeded  in 
catching  half  a  dozen  musquash,  which  we  were  glad  to  share  with 
him,  and  a  few  trout  which  v/ere  also  taken,  and  served  to  save  a 
portion  of  our  more  substantial  food.  At  Pock-wock-anms  Falls, 
where  the  river  rushes  over  a  ledge  of  granite,  large  trout  are  caught 
abundantly,  and  we  stopped  a  short  time  to  obtain  a  supply.  They 
are  readily  taken  with  a  common  fishing-hook  and  line,  baited  with  a 
piece  of  pork,  or  even  with  a  slip  of  paper,  which  is  to  be  trailed  over 
the  surface  of  the  water.  Some  of  the  trout  thus  caught  would  weigh 
from  three  and  a  half  to  four  pounds. 

On  the  22d  of  September  we  prepared  ourselves  for  ascending  the 
mountain,  taking  with  us  our  tent,  a  few  cooking  utensils,  and  all  the 
food  remaining,  except  a  small  quantity  of  Indian  corn-meal,  which 
we  concealed  on  the  island  for  use  on  our  return. 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


215 


"Our  party,  all  clothed  with  red  flannel  shirts,  and  loaded  with  our 
various  equipments,  made  a  singular  appearance  as  we  landed  on  the 
opposite  shore  and  filed  into  the  woods. 

Having  reached  a  height  where  the  forest-trees  were  so  diminu- 
tive that  we  could  not  camp  any  higher  up  for  want  of  fuel,  we  pitched 
our  tent.  This  place  is  about  half-way  up  the  mountain.  From  it 
we  have  an  extensive  view  of  the  surrounding  country. 

*'  Leaving  our  camp  on  the  mountain  side  the  next  morning  at  seven 
o'clock,  we  set  out  for  the  summit  of  Ktaadn,  travelling  steadily  up 
the  slide,  clambering  over  loose  bowlders  of  granite,  trap,  and  gray- 
wacke,  which  are  heaped  up  in  confusion  along  its  course.  We  at 
length  reached  a  place  where  it  was  dangerous  longer  to  walk  on  the 
loose  rocks,  and,  passing  over  to  the  right-hand  side,  clambered  up 
among  the  dwarfish  bushes  that  cling  to  the  side  of  the  mountain. 

*'  Two  of  our  party  became  discouraged  on  reaching  this  point,  and, 
there  being  no  necessity  of  their  accompanying  us,  they  were  allowed 
to  return  to  camp.  The  remainder  of  our  ascent  was  extremely  diffi- 
cult, and  required  no  small  perseverance.  Our  Indian  guide,  Louis, 
placed  stones  along  the  path,  in  order  that  we  might  more  readily 
find  the  way  down  the  mountain,  and  the  wisdom  of  this  precaution 
was  fully  manifested  in  the  sequel.  At  ten  o'  clock  we  reached  the  table- 
land which  forms  the  mountain's  top,  and  ascends  gradually  to  the 
central  peak.  Here  the  wind  and  driving  snow  and  hail  rendered  it 
almost  impossible  to  proceed,  but  we  at  length  reached  the  central 
peak.  The  true  altitude  of  Mount  Ktaadn,  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
is  a  little  more  than  one  mile  perpendicular  elevation.  It  is,  then, 
evidently  the  highest  point  in  the  State  of  Maine,  and  is  the  most 
abrupt  granite  mountain  in  New  England. 

"  Amid  a  furious  snow-storm  we  set  out  on  our  return  from  this 
region  of  clouds  and  snow.  Louis  declared  that  Pomola  was  angry 
with  us  for  presuming  to  measure  the  height  of  the  mountain,  and 
thus  revenged  himself.  '  Descending,  we  had  nearly  gone  astray,  and 
might  have  descended  on  the  wrong  side,  had  it  not  been  for  the  pre- 
caution of  Louis,  before  named.  Clouds  and  darkness  hung  upon  the 
mountain's  brow,  and  the  cold  blasts  almost  deprived  us  of  breath. 
Incrusted  with  snow,  we  carefully  slid  upon  the  surface  of  the  rocks.' 
*  We  tumbled  down  some  large  blocks  of  granite,  that  descended  with 
a  terrible  fracas,  dashing  the  rocks  into  fragments  as  they  bounded 
along.'  'Our  party  encamped  upon  the  mountain  side,  and  passed  a 
sleepless  night,  without  food,  and  amid  a  driving  snow-storm.' 


216 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


Early  next  morning  we  struck  our  tent  and  descended  the  moun- 
tain; but  so  enfeebled  had  we  become  by  hunger,  privations,  and 
fatigue,  that  it  was  with  difficulty  we  could  carry  ourselves  and  bur- 
dens. Every  now  and  then  our  knees  would  give  way  beneath  us,  and 
cause  us  to  fall  upon  the  ground.  When  we  reached  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  we  discovered  some  wild  choke-cherries  hanging  in  bunches 
from  the  trees,  which  the  bears  had  often  climbed  and  broken  for  the 
fruit.  Felling  one  of  these  cherry-trees,  we  ate  the  astringent  fruit, 
and  were  in  some  measure  resuscitated  in  strength,  so  as  to  march 
with  renewed  vigor.  A  bed  of  blueberries  also  presented  itself,  and 
we  stopped  to  dine  upon  them.  '  Proceeding  on,  we  met  two  of  our 
company,  who  had  passed  down  the  night  before,  who  had  cooked  all 
the  Indian  meal  that  we  had  left  at  our  old  camp  on  the  island,  and 
brought  the  cakes  for  our  relief.  On  our  way  down  the  river  we  for- 
tunately met  two  young  men  ascending  the  stream  in  a  canoe,  on  an 
exploring  expedition.  We  induced  them  to  sell  us  twenty  biscuits, 
which  being  two  to  a  man,  on  short  allowance,  we  hoped  to  be  able 
to  reach  Nickatow.  On  our  way  down  we  met  another  crew,  who 
supplied  us  with  the  necessary  rations  to  reach  Nickatow,  where,  on 
our  arrival,  we  obtained  all  that  was  necessary  for  the  comfortable 
prosecution  of  our  down-river  journey.'  " 

We  give  another  account,  written  by  Thoreau,  who  says :  — 
By  six  o'clock,  having  mounted  our  packs  and  a  good  blanketful 
of  trout,  ready  dressed,  and  swung  up  such  baggage  and  provision  as 
we  wished  to  leave  behind,  upon  the  tops  of  saplings,  to  be  out  of  the 
reach  of  bears,  we  started  for  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  distant, 
as  Uncle  George  said  the  boatmen  called  it,  about  four  miles,  but  as  I 
judged,  and  as  it  proved,  nearer  fourteen.  He  had  never  been  any 
nearer  the  mountain  than  this,  and  there  was  not  the  slightest  trace 
of  man  to  guide  us  farther  in  this  direction.  At  first,  pushing  a  few 
rods  up  the  Aboljacknagesic,  or  '  open -land  stream,'  we  fastened  our 
bateau  to  a  tree,  and  travelled  up  the  north  side,  through  burnt  lands, 
now  partially  overgrown  with  young  aspens  and  other  shrubbery ;  but 
soon,  recrossing  this  stream,  w^here  it  was  about  fifty  or  sixty  feet 
wide,  upon  a  jam  of  logs  and  rocks,  — and  you  could  cross  it  by  this 
means  almost  anywhere, — we  struck  at  once  for  the  highest  peak, 
over  a  mile  or  more  of  comparatively  open  land,  still  very  gradually 
ascending  the  while.  Here  it  fell  to  my  lot,  as  the  oldest  mountain- 
climber,  to  take  the  lead.  So,  scanning  the  woody  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, which  lay  still  at  an  indefinite  distance,  stretched  out  some  seven 


iMOUNTAIN  BROOK. 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


219 


or  eight  miles  in  length  before  us,  we  determined  to  steer  directly  for 
the  base  of  the  highest  peak,  leaving  a  large  slide,  by  which,  as  I  have 
since  learned,  some  of  our  predecessors  ascended,  on  our  left.  This 
course  would  lead  us  parallel  to  a  dark  seam  in  the  forest,  which 
marked  the  bed  of  a  torrent,  and  over  a  slight  spur,  which  extended 
southward  from  the  main  mountain,  from  whose  bare  summit  we 
could  get  an  outlook  over  the  country,  and  climb  directly  up  the  peak, 
which  would  then  be  close  at  hand.  Seen  from  this  point,  a  bare 
ridge  at  the  extremity  of  the  open  land,  Ktaadn  presented  a  different 
aspect  from  any  mountain  I  have  seen,  there  being  a  greater  portion 
of  naked  rock  rising  abruptly  from  the  forest;  and  we  looked  up  at 
this  blue  barrier  as  if  it  were  some  fragment  of  a  wall  which  anciently 
bounded  the  earth  in  that  direction.  Setting  the  compass  for  a  north- 
east course,  which  was  the  bearing  of  the  soutliern  base  of  the  highest 
peak,  we  were  soon  buried  in  the  woods. 

"  We  soon  began  to  meet  with  traces  of  bears  and  moose,  and  those 
of  rabbits  were  everywhere  visible.  The  tracks  of  moose,  more  or 
less  recent,  to  speak  literally,  covered  every  square  rod  on  the  sides  of 
the  mountain;  and  these  animals  are  probably  more  numerous  there 
now  than  ever  before,  being  driven  into  this  wilderness,  from  all  sides, 
by  the  settlements.  The  track  of  a  full-grown  moose  is  like  that  of  a 
cow,  or  larger,  and  of  the  young,  like  that  of  a  calf.  Sometimes  we 
found  ourselves  travelling  in  faint  paths,  which  they  had  made,  like 
cow-paths  in  the  woods,  only  far  more  indistinct,  being  rather  open- 
ings, affording  imperfect  vistas  through  the  dense  underwood,  than 
trodden  paths ;  and  everywhere  the  twigs  had  been  browsed  by  them, 
clipped  as  smoothly  as  if  by  a  knife.  The  bark  of  trees  was  stripped 
up  by  them  to  the  height  of  eight  or  nine  feet,  in  long,  narrow  strips, 
an  inch  wide,  still  showing  the  distinct  marks  of  their  teeth.  We  ex- 
pected nothing  less  than  to  meet  a  herd  of  them  every  moment,  and 
our  Nimrod  held  his  shooting-iron  in  readiness;  but  we  did  not  go  out 
of  our  way  to  look  for  them,  and,  though  numerous,  they  are  so  wary 
that  the  unskilful  hunter  might  range  the  forest  a  long  time  before 
he  could  get  sight  of  one.  They  are  sometimes  dangerous  to  encounter, 
and  will  not  turn  out  for  the  hunter,  but  furiously  rush  upon  him  and 
trample  him  to  death,  unless  he  is  lucky  enough  to  avoid  them  by 
dodging  round  a  tree.  The  largest  are  nearly  as  large  as  a  horse,  and 
weigh  sometimes  one  thousand  pounds ;  and  it  is  said  that  they  can 
step  over  a  five-feet  gate  in  their  ordinary  walk.  They  are  described 
as  exceedingly  awkward-looking  animals,  with  their  long  legs  and  short 


220 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


bodies,  making  a  ludicrous  figure  when  in  full  run,  but  making  great 
headway  nevertheless.  It  seemed  a  mystery  to  us  how  they  could 
tread  these  woods,  which  it  required  all  our  suppleness  to  accomplish, 
—  climbing,  stooping,  and  winding  alternately.  They  are  said  to 
drop  their  long  and  branching  horns,  which  usually  spread  five  or 
six  feet,  on  their  backs,  and  make  their  way  easily  by  the  weight  of 
their  bodies.  Our  boatman  said,  but  I  know  not  with  how  much  truth, 
that  their  horns  are  apt  to  be  gnawed  away  by  vermin  while  they 
sleep.  Their  flesh,  which  is  more  like  beef  than  venison,  is  common 
in  the  Bangor  market. 

"  We  had  proceeded  on  thus  seven  or  eight  miles,  till  about  noon, 
with  fi-equent  pauses  to  refresh  the  weary  ones,  crossing  a  considera- 
ble mountain  stream,  which  we  conjectured  to  be  Murch  Brook,  at 
whose  mouth  we  had  camped,  all  the  time  in  woods,  without  having 
once  seen  the  summit,  and  rising  very  gradually,  when  the  boatmen 
beginning  to  despair  a  little,  and  fearing  that  we  were  leaving  the 
mountain  on  one  side  of  us,  for  they  had  not  entire  faith  in  the  com- 
pass, McCauslin  climbed  a  tree,  from  the  top  of  which  he  could  see 
the  peak,  when  it  appeared  that  we  had  not  swerved  from  a  right  line, 
the  compass  down  below  still  ranging  with  his  arm,  which  pointed  to 
the  summit.  By  the  side  of  a  cool  mountain  rill,  amid  the  woods, 
where  the  water  began  to  partake  of  the  purity  and  transparency  of 
the  air,  we  stopped  to  cook  some  of  our  fishes,  which  we  had  brought 
thus  far  in  order  to  save  our  hard  bread  and  pork,  in  the  use  of  which 
we  had  put  ourselves  on  short  allowance.  We  soon  had  a  fire  blazing, 
and  stood  around  it,  under  the  damp  and  sombre  forest  of  firs  and 
birches,  each  with  a  sharpened  stick,  three  or  four  feet  in  length,  upon 
which  he  had  spitted  his  trout,  or  roach,  previously  well  gashed  and 
salted,  our  sticks  radiating  like  the  spokes  of  a  wheel  from  one  centre, 
and  each  crowding  his  particular  fish  into  the  most  desirable  exposure, 
not  with  the  truest  regard  always  to  his  neighbor's  rights.  Thus  we 
regaled  ourselves,  drinking  meanwhile  at  the  spring,  till  one  man's 
pack,  at  least,  was  considerably  lightened,  when  we  again  took  up  our 
line  of  march. 

"  At  length  we  reached  an  elevation  sufficiently  bare  to  afford  a  view 
of  the  summit,  still  distant  and  blue,  almost  as  if  retreating  from  us. 
A  torrent,  which  proved  to  be  the  same  we  had  crossed,  was  seen 
tumbling  down  in  front,  literally  from  out  of  the  clouds.  But  this 
glimpse  at  our  whereabouts  was  soon  lost,  and  we  were  buried  in  the 
woods  again.    The  wood  was  chiefly  yellow  birch,  spruce,  fir,  moun- 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


221 


tain-ash,  or  round-wood,  as  the  Maine  people  call  it,  and  moose-wood. 
It  was  the  worst  kind  of  travelling,  sometimes  like  the  densest  scrub- 
oak  patches,  with  us.  The  cornel,  or  bunch-berries,  were  very  abun- 
dant, as  well  as  Solomon's  seal  and  moose-berries.  Blueberries  were 
distributed  along  our  whole  route:  and  in  one  place  the  bushes  were 
drooping  with  the  weight  of  the  fruit,  still  as  fresh  as  ever.  It  was 
the  7th  of  September.  Such  patches  afforded  a  grateful  repast,  and 
served  to  bait  the  tired  party  forward.  When  any  lagged  behind  the 
cry  of  *  blueberi  ies '  was  most  effectual  to  bring  them  up.  Even  at 
this  elevation  we  passed  through  a  moose-yard  formed  by  a  large,  flat 
rock,  four  or  five  rods  square,  where  they  tread  down  the  snow  in 
winter.  At  length,  fearing  tliat  if  we  held  the  direct  course  to  the 
summit,  we  should  not  find  any  water  near  our  camping-ground,  we 
gradually  swerved  to  the  west,  till,  at  four  o'clock,  we  struck  again  the 
torrent  which  I  have  mentioned,  and  here,  in  view  of  tlie  summit, 
the  weary  party  decided  to  camp  that  night. 

AVhile  my  companions  were  seeking  a  suitable  spot  for  this  pur- 
pose, I  improved  the  little  daylight  that  was  left  in  climbing  the 
mountain  alone.  We  were  in  a  deep  and  narrow  ravine,  sloping  up  to 
the  clouds,  at  an  angle  of  nearly  forty-five  degrees,  and  hemmed  in 
by  walls  of  rock,  which  were  at  first  covered  w^ith  low  trees,  then  with 
impenetrable  thickets  of  scraggy  birches  and  spruce-trees,  and  with 
moss,  but  at  last  bare  of  all  vegetation  but  lichens,  and  almost  con- 
tinually draped  in  clouds.  Following  up  the  course  of  the  torrent 
which  occupied  this,  —  and  I  mean  to  lay  some  emphasis  on  this  word 
up,  —  pulling  myself  up  by  the  side  of  perpendicular  falls  of  twenty 
or  thirty  feet,  by  the  roots  of  firs  and  birches,  and  then,  perhaps, 
walking  a  level  rod  or  two  in  the  thin  stream, — for  it  took  up  the 
w^hole  road,  ascending  by  huge  steps,  as  it  were,  a  giant's  stairway, 
down  which  a  river  flowed,  — I  had  soon  cleared  the  trees,  and  paused, 
on  the  successive  shelves,  to  look  back  over  the  country.  The  torrent 
was  from  fifteen  to  thirty  feet  wide,  without  a  tributary,  and  seem- 
ingly not  diminishing  in  breadth  as  I  advanced;  but  still  it  came  rush- 
ing and  roaring  down,  with  a  copious  tide,  over  and  amidst  masses  of 
bare  rock,  from  the  very  clouds,  as  though  a  w^ater-spout  had  just 
burst  over  the  mountain.  Leaving  tliis  at  last,  I  began  to  work  my 
way,  scarcely  less  arduous  than  Satan's  anciently  through  Chaos,  up 
the  nearest,  thougli  not  the  highest,  peak.  At  first  scrambling  on  all- 
fours  over  the  top  of  ancient  black  spruce-trees  {Abies  nigra)  old  as 
the  flood,  from  two  to  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  height,  their  tops  flat  and 


222 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


spreading,  and  their  foliage  blue,  and  nipped  with  cold,  as  if  for  cen- 
turies they  had  ceased  growing  upward  against  the  bleak  sky,  the 
solid  cold,  I  walked  some  good  rods  erect  upon  the  tops  of  these  trees, 
which  were  overgrown  with  moss  and  mountain-cranberries.  It 
seemed  that  in  the  course  of  time  they  had  filled  up  the  intervals  be- 
tween the  huge  rocks,  and  the  cold  wind  had  uniformly  levelled  all 
over.  Here  the  principle  of  vegetation  was  hard  put  to  it.  There  was 
apparently  a  belt  of  this  kind  running  quite  round  the  mountain, 
though,  perhaps,  nowhere  so  remarkable  as  here.  Once,  slumping 
through,  I  looked  down  ten  feet,  into  a  dark  and  cavernous  region, 
and  saw  the  stem  of  a  spruce,  on  whose  top  I  stood,  as  on  a  mass  of 
coarse  basket-work,  fully  nine  inches  in  diameter  at  the  ground. 
These  holes  were  bears'  dens,  and  the  bears  were  even  then  at  home. 

This  was  the  sort  of  garden  I  made  my  way  over,  for  an  eighth  of 
a  mile,  at  the  risk,  it  is  true,  of  treading  on  some  of  the  plants,  not 
seeing  any  path  through  it,  —  certainly  the  most  treacherous  and 
porous  country  I  ever  travelled.  But  nothing  could  exceed  the  tough- 
ness of  the  twigs;  not  one  snapped  under  my  weight,  for  they  had 
slowly  grown.  Having  slumped,  scrambled,  rolled,  bounced,  and 
walked,  by  turns,  over  this  scraggy  country,  I  arrived  upon  a  side-hill, 
or  rather  side-mountain,  where  rocks,  gray,  silent  rocks,  were  the 
flocks  and  herds  that  pastured,  chewing  a  rocky  cud  at  sunset.  They 
looked  at  me  with  hard  gray  eyes,  without  a  bleat  or  a  low.  This 
brought  me  to  the  skirt  of  a  cloud,  and  bounded  my  walk  that  night. 
But  I  had  already  seen  that  Maine  country  when  I  turned  about,  wav- 
ing, flowing,  rippling,  down  below. 

When  I  returned  to  my  companions,  they  had  selected  a  camp- 
ing-ground on  the  torrent's  edge,  and  were  resting  on  the  ground; 
one  was  on  the  sick-list,  rolled  in  a  blanket,  on  a  damp  shelf  of  rock. 
It  was  a  savage  and  dreary  scene  enough;  so  wildly  rough  that  they 
looked  long  to  find  a  level  and  open  space  for  the  tent.  We  could  not 
well  camp  higher,  for  want  of  fuel,  and  the  trees  there  seemed  so 
evergreen  and  sappy,  that  we  almost  doubted  if  they  would  acknowl- 
edge the  influence  of  fire  ;  but  fire  prevailed  at  last,  and  blazed  here, 
too,  like  a  good  citizen  of  the  world.  Even  at  this  height  we  met 
frequent  traces  of  moose,  as  well  as  of  bears.  As  here  was  no  cedar, 
we  made  our  bed  of  coarser  feathered  spruce;  but  at  any  rate  the 
feathers  were  plucked  from  the  live  tree.  It  was,  perhaps,  even  a 
more  grand  and  desolate  place  for  a  night's  lodging  than  the  summit 
would  have  been,  being  in  the  neighborhood  of  those  wild  trees,  and 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


223 


of  the  torrent.  Some  more  aerial  and  finer-spirited  winds  rushed  and 
roared  through  tlie  ravine  all  night,  from  time  to  time  arousing  our 
fire,  and  dispersing  the  embers  about.  It  was  as  if  we  lay  in  the  very 
nest  of  a  young  whirlwind.  At  midnight,  one  of  my  bed-fellows, 
being  startled  in  his  dreams  by  the  sudden  blazing  up  to  its  top  of  a 
fir-tree,  whose  green  boughs  were  dried  by  the  heat,  sprang  up,  with 
a  cry,  from  his  bed,  thinking  the  w^orld  on  fire,  and  drew^  the  whole 
camp  after  him. 

"  In  the  morning,  after  whetting  our  appetite  on  some  raw  pork,  a 
wafer  of  hard  bread,  and  a  dipper  of  condensed  cloud  or  waterspout, 
we  all  together  began  to  make  our  way  up  the  falls,  wiiich  I  have 
described;  this  time  choosing  the  right-hand,  or  highest  peak,  which 
was  not  the  one  I  had  approached  before.  But  soon  my  companions 
were  lost  to  my  sight  behind  the  mountain  ridge  in  my  rear,  which 
still  seemed  ever  retreating  before  me,  and  I  climbed  alone  over  huge 
rocks,  loosely  poised,  a  mile  or  more,  still  edging  towards  the  clouds; 
for  though  the  day  was  clear  elsewhere,  the  summit  was  concealed  by 
mist.  The  mountain  seemed  a  vast  aggregation  of  loose  rocks,  as  if 
some  time  it  had  rained  rocks,  and  they  lay  as  they  fell  on  the 
mountain  sides,  nowhere  fairly  at  rest,  but  leaning  on  each  other, 
all  rocking-stones,  with  cavities  between,  but  scarcely  any  soil  or 
smoother  shelf.  They  were  the  raw  materials  of  a  planet  dropped 
from  an  unseen  quarry,  which  the  vast  chemistry  of  nature  would 
anon  work  up,  or  work  down,  into  the  smiling  and  verdant  plains  and 
valleys  of  earth.  This  w^as  an  undone  extremity  of  the  globe;  as  in 
lignite  we  see  coal  in  the  process  of  formation. 

At  length  I  entered  within  the  skirts  of  the  cloud  which  seemed 
forever  drifting  over  the  summit,  and  yet  would  never  be  gone,  but 
was  generated  out  of  that  pure  air  as  fast  as  it  flowed  away;  and 
when,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  farther,  I  reached  the  summit  of  the  ridge, 
which  those  who  have  seen  in  clearer  w^eather  say  is  about  five  miles 
long,  and  contains  a  thousand  acres  of  table-land,  I  was  deep  within 
the  hostile  ranks  of  clouds,  and  all  objects  were  obscured  by  them. 
Now  the  wind  would  blow  me  out  a  yard  of  clear  sunlight,  wherein 
I  stood;  then  a  gray,  dawning  light  was  all  it  could  accomplish,  the 
cloud-line  ever  rising  and  falling  with  the  wind's  intensity.  Some- 
times it  seemed  as  if  the  summit  would  be  cleared  in  a  few  moments, 
and  smile  in  sunshine;  but  what  was  gained  on  one  side  was  lost 
on  another.  It  was  like  sitting  in  a  chimney  and  w^aiting  for  the 
smoke  to  blow  away.    It  was,  in  fact,  a  cloud -factory;  these  w^ere  the 


224 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


cloud-works,  and  the  wind  turned  them  off  done  from  the  cool,  bare 
rocks.    Occasionally,  when  the  windy  columns  broke  in  to  me,  I  caught 


and  me.   It  reminded  me  of  the  creations  of  the  old  epic  and  dra- 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


225 


matic  poets,  of  Atlas,  Vulcan,  the  Cyclops,  and  Prometheus.  Such 
was  Caucasus  and  the  rock  where  Prometheus  was  bound,  ^schy- 
lus  had  no  doubt  visited  such  scenery  as  this.  It  was  vast,  Titanic, 
and  such  as  man  never  inhabits.  Some  part  of  the  beholder,  even 
some  vital  part,  seems  to  escape  through  the  loose  grating  of  his 
ribs  as  he  ascends.  He  is  more  lone  than  you  can  imagine.  There 
is  less  of  substantial  thought  and  fair  understanding  in  him  than 
in  the  plains  where  men  inhabit.  His  reason  is  dispersed  and 
shadowy,  more  thin  and  subtle,  like  the  air.  Vast,  Titanic,  inhu- 
man Nature  has  got  him  at  disadvantage,  caught  him  alone,  and 
pilfers  him  of  some  of  his  divine  faculty.  She  does  not  smile  on 
him  as  in  the  plains.  She  seems  to  say  sternly.  Why  came  ye 
here  before  your  time  ?  This  ground  is  not  prepared  for  you.  Is 
it  not  enough  that  I  smile  in  the  valleys  ?  I  have  never  made  this 
soil  for  thy  feet,  this  air  for  thy  breathing,  these  rocks  for  thy 
neighbors.  I  cannot  pity  nor  fondle  thee  here,  but  forever  relent- 
lessly drive  thee  hence  to  where  I  am  kind.  Why  seek  me  where  I 
have  not  called  thee,  and  then  complain  because  you  find  me  but  a 
stepmother  ?  Shouldst  thou  freeze  or  starve,  or  shudder  thy  life 
away,  here  is  no  shrine,  nor  altar,  nor  any  access  to  my  ear. 

*'The  tops  of  mountains  are  among  the  unfinished  parts  of  the 
globe,  whither  it  is  a  slight  insult  to  the  gods  to  climb  and  pry  into 
their  secrets,  and  try  their  effect  on  our  humanity.  Only  daring  and 
insolent  men,  perchance,  go  there.  Simple  races,  as  savages,  do  not 
climb  mountains;  their  tops  are  sacred  and  mysterious  tracts  never 
visited  by  them.  Pomola  is  always  angry  with  those  who  climb  to 
the  summit  of  Ktaadn. 

According  to  .Jackson,  who,  in  his  capacity  of  geological  surveyor 
of  the  State,  has  accurately  measured  it,  the  altitude  of  Ktaadn  is 
five  thousand  three  hundred  feet,  or  a  little  more  than  one  mile  above 
the  level  of  the  sea;  and  he  adds,  '  It  is  then  evidently  the  highest 
point  in  the  State  of  Maine,  and  is  the  most  abrupt  granite  mountain 
in  New  England.'  The  peculiarities  of  that  spacious  table-land  on 
which  I  was  standing,  as  well  as  the  remarkable  semicircular  preci- 
pice or  basin  on  the  eastern  side,  were  all  concealed  by  the  mist.  I 
had  brought  my  whole  pack  to  the  top,  not  knowing  but  I  should 
have  to  make  my  descent  to  the  river,  and  possibly  to  the  settled  por- 
tion of  the  State  alone,  and  by  some  other  route,  and  wishing  to  have 
a  complete  outfit  with  me.  But  at  length,  fearing  that  my  compan- 
ions would  be  anxious  to  reach  the  river  before  night,  and  knowing 


226 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


that  the  clouds  might  rest  on  the  mountain  for  days,  I  was  compelled 
to  descend.  Occasionally,  as  I  came  down,  the  wind  would  blow  me 
a  vista  open,  through  which  I  could  see  the  country  eastward,  bound- 
less forests,  and  lakes,  and  streams,  gleaming  in  the  sun,  some  of 
them  emptying  into  the  East  Branch.  There  were  also  new  moun- 
tains in  sight  in  that  direction.  Now  and  then  some  small  bird  of 
the  sparrow  family  would  flit  away  before  me,  unable  to  command 
its  course,  like  a  fragment  of  the  gray  rock  blown  off  by  the  wind. 

I  found  my  companions  where  I  had  left  them,  on  the  side  of  the 
peak,  gathering  the  mountain  cranberries,  which  filled  every  crevice 
between  the  rocks,  together  with  blueberries,  which  had  a  spicier 
flavor  the  higher  up  they  grew,  but  were  not  the  less  agreeable  to  our 
palates.  When  the  country  is  settled,  and  roads  are  made,  these  cran- 
berries will  perhaps  become  an  article  of  commerce.  From  this  eleva- 
tion, just  on  the  skirts  of  the  clouds,  we  could  overlook  the  country, 
west  and  south,  for  a  hundred  miles.  There  it  was  in  the  State  of 
Maine,  which  we  had  seen  on  the  map,  but  not  much  like  that, — 
immeasurable  forest  for  the  sun  to  shine  on,  that  eastern  stuff  we 
hear  of  in  Massachusetts.  No  clearing,  no  house.  It  did  not  look  as 
if  a  solitary  traveller  had  cut  so  much  as  a  walking-stick  there.  Count- 
less lakes,  —  Moosehead  in  the  southwest,  forty  miles  long  by  ten 
wide,  like  a  gleaming  silver  platter  at  the  end  of  the  table;  Chesun- 
cook,  eighteen  long  by  three  wide,  without  an  island;  Millinocket,  on 
the  south,  with  its  hundred  islands;  and  a  hundred  others  without  a 
name;  and  mountains  also,  whose  names,  for  the  most  part,  are 
known  only  to  the  Indians.  The  forest  looked  like  a  firm  grass  sward, 
and  the  effect  of  these  lakes  in  its  midst  has  been  well  compared  by 
one  who  has  since  visited  this  same  spot,  to  that  of  a  *  mirror  broken 
into  a  thousand  fragments,  and  wildly  scattered  over  the  grass,  reflect- 
ing the  full  blaze  of  the  sun.'  It  was  a  large  farm  for  somebody,  when 
cleared.  According  to  the  Gazetteer,  which  was  printed  before  the 
boundary  question  was  settled,  this  single  Penobscot  County,  in  which 
we  were,  was  larger  than  the  whole  State  of  Vermont,  with  its  four- 
teen counties;  and  this  was  only  a  part  of  the  wild  lands  of  Maine. 
We  are  concerned  now,  however,  about  natural,  not  political  limits. 
We  were  about  eighty  miles,  as  the  bird  flies,  from  Bangor,  or  one 
hundred  and  fifteen,  as  we  had  rode,  and  walked,  and  paddled.  We 
had  to  console  ourselves  with  the  reflection  that  this  view  was  proba- 
bly as  good  as  that  from  the  peak,  as  far  as  it  went;  and  what  were  a 
mountain  without  its  attendant  clouds  and  mists  ?    Like  ourselves, 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


22T 


neither  Bailey  nor  Jackson  liad  obtained  a  clear  view  from  the 
summit. 

Setting  out  on  our  return  to  the  river,  still  at  an  early  hour  in  the 
day,  we  decided  to  follow  the  course  of  the  torrent,  which  we  sup- 
posed to  be  Murch  Brook,  as  long  as  it  would  not  lead  us  too  far  out 
of  our  way.  We  thus  travelled  about  four  miles  in  the  very  torrent 
itself,  continually  crossing  and  recrossing  it,  leaping  from  rock  to 
rock,  and  jumping  with  the  stream  down  falls  of  seven  or  eight  feet, 
or  sometimes  sliding  down  on  our  back  in  a  thin  sheet  of  water. 
This  ravine  had  been  the  scene  of  an  extraordinary  freshet  in  the 
spring,  apparently  accompanied  by  a  slide  from  the  mountain.  It 
must  have  been  filled  with  a  stream  of  stones  and  water,  at  least 
twenty  feet  above  the  i)resent  level  of  the  torrent.  For  a  rod  or  two, 
on  either  side  of  its  channel,  the  trees  were  barked  and  splintered  up 
to  their  tops,  the  birches  bent  over,  twisted,  and  sometimes  finely 
split,  like  a  stable-broom;  some,  a  foot  in  diameter,  snapped  off,  and 
whole  clumps  of  trees  bent  over  with  the  weight  of  rocks  piled  on 
them.  In  one  place  we  noticed  a  rock,  two  or  three  feet  in  diameter, 
lodged  nearly  twenty  feet  high  in  the  crotch  of  a  tree.  For  the  whole 
four  miles  we  saw  but  one  rill  emptying  in,  and  the  volume  of  water 
did  not  seem  to  be  increased  from  the  first.  We  travelled  thus  very 
rapidly  with  a  downward  impetus,  and  grew  remarkably  expert  at 
leaping  from  rock  to  rock,  for  leap  we  must,  and  leap  we  did,  whether 
there  was  any  rock  at  the  right  distance  or  not.  It  was  a  pleasant 
picture  when  the  foremost  turned  about  and  looked  up  the  winding 
ravine,  walled  in  with  rocks  and  the  green  forest,  to  see,  at  intervals 
of  a  rod  or  two,  a  red-shirted  or  green-jacketed  mountaineer  against 
the  white  torrent,  leaping  down  the  channel  with  his  pack  on  his  back, 
or  pausing  upon  a  convenient  rock  in  the  midst  of  the  torrent  to  mend 
a  rent  in  his  clothes,  or  unstrap  the  dipper  at  his  belt  to  take  a 
draught  of  the  water.  At  one  place  we  were  startled  by  seeing,  on  a 
little  sandy  shelf  by  the  side  of  the  stream,  the  fresh  print  of  a  man's 
foot,  and  for  a  moment  realized  how  Robinson  Crusoe  felt  in  a  simi- 
lar case ;  but  at  last  we  remembered  that  we  had  struck  this  stream  on 
our  way  up,  though  we  could  not  have  told  where,  and  one  had  de- 
scended into  the  ravine  for  a  drink.  The  cool  air  above,  and  the  con- 
tinual bathing  of  our  bodies  in  mountain  water,  alternate  foot,  sitz, 
douche,  and  plunge  baths,  made  this  walk  exceedingly  refreshing; 
and  we  had  travelled  only  a  mile  or  two,  after  leaving  the  torrent, 
before  every  thread  of  our  clothes  was  as  dry  as  usual,  owing,  perhaps, 
to  a  peculiar  quality  in  the  atmosphere. 


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"  After  leaving  the  torrent,  being  in  doubt  about  our  course,  Tom 
threw  down  his  pack  at  the  foot  of  the  loftiest  spruce-tree  at  hand,  and 
shinned  up  the  bare  trunk,  some  twenty  feet,  and  tlien  climbed  through 
the  green  tower,  lost  to  our  sight,  until  he  held  the  topmost  spray  in 
his  hand.  McCauslin,  in  his  younger  days,  had  marched  through  the 
wilderness  with  a  body  of  troops,  under  General  Somebody,  and,  with 
one  other  man,  did  all  the  scouting  and  spying  service.  The  general's 
word  was,  '  Throw  down  the  top  of  that  tree,'  and  there  was  no  tree 
in  the  Maine  woods  so  high  that  it  did  not  lose  its  top  in  such  a  case. 
I  have  heard  a  story  of  two  men  being  lost  once  in  these  woods, 
nearer  to  the  settlements  than  this,  who  climbed  the  loftiest  pine  they 
could  find,  some  six  feet  in  diameter  at  the  ground,  from  whose  top 
they  discovered  a  solitary  clearing  and  its  smoke.  When  at  this 
height,  some  two  hundred  feet  from  the  ground,  one  of  them  became 
dizzy,  and  fainted  in  his  companion's  arms,  and  the  latter  had  to  ac- 
complish the  descent  with  him,  alternately  fainting  and  reviving,  as 
best  he  could.  To  Tom  we  cried,  '  Where  away  does  the  summit 
bear  ?  where  the  burnt  lands  ?  '  The  last  he  could  only  conjecture ; 
he  described,  however,  a  little  meadow  and  pond,  lying  probably  in 
our  course,  which  we  concluded  to  steer  for.  On  reaching  this  se- 
cluded meadow,  we  found  fresh  tracks  of  moose  on  the  shore  of  the 
pond,  and  the  water  was  still  unsettled  as  if  they  had  fled  before  us. 
A  little  farther,  in  a  dense  thicket,  we  seemed  still  to  be  on  their 
trail.  It  was  a  small  meadow,  of  a  few  acres,  on  the  mountain-side, 
concealed  by  the  forest,  and  perhaps  never  seen  by  a  white  man  before, 
where  one  would  think  that  the  moose  might  browse  and  bathe,  and 
rest  in  peace.  Pursuing  this  course,  we  soon  reached  the  opeji  land, 
which  went  sloping  down  some  miles  toward  the  Penobscot. 

Perhaps  I  most  fully  realized  that  this  was  primeval,  untamed, 
and  forever  untamable  Nature,  or  whatever  else  men  call  it,  while 
coming  down  this  part  of  the  mountain.  We  w^ere  passing  over  '  Burnt 
Lands,'  burnt  by  lightning,  perchance,  though  they  showed  no  recent 
marks  of  fire,  hardly  so  much  as  a  charred  stump,  but  looked  rather 
like  a  natural  pasture  for  the  moose  and  deer,  exceedingly  wild  and 
desolate,  with  occasional  strips  of  timber  crossing  them,  and  low  pop- 
lars springing  up,  and  patches  of  blueberries  here  and  there.  I  found 
myself  traversing  them  familiarly,  like  some  pasture  run  to  waste,  or 
partially  reclaimed  by  man;  but  when  I  reflected  what  man,  what 
brother,  or  sister,  or  kinsman  of  our  race  made  it  and  claimed  it,  I 
expected  the  proprietor  to  rise  up  and  dispute  my  passage.    It  is  diffi- 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


229 


cult  to  conceive  of  a  region  uninhabited  by  man.  We  habitually  pre- 
sume his  presence  and  influence  everyvvliere.  And  yet  we  have  not 
seen  pure  Nature,  unless  we  have  seen  her  thus  vast  and  drear  and  in- 
human, though  in  the  midst  of  cities.  Nature  was  here  something 
savage  and  awful,  though  beautiful.  I  looked  with  awe  at  the  ground 
I  trod  on,  to  see  what  the  Powers  had  made  there,  the  form  and  fash- 
ion and  the  material  of  their  woriv.  This  was  that  Earth  of  which 
we  have  heard,  made  out  of  Chaos  and  Old  Night.  Here  was  no  man's 
garden,  but  the  unhandselled  globe.  It  was  not  lawn,  nor  pasture, 
nor  mead,  nor  woodland,  nor  lea,  nor  arable,  nor  waste  land.  It  was 
the  fresh  and  natural  surface  of  the  planet  Earth,  as  it  was  made  for 
ever  and  ever,  to  be  the  dwelling  of  man,  we  say ;  so  Nature  made  it, 
and  man  may  use  it  if  he  can.  Man  was  not  to  be  associated  with  it. 
It  was  Maiter,  vast,  terrific,  —  not  his  Mother  Earth  that  we  have 
heard  of,  not  for  him  to  tread  on,  or  to  be  buried  in, —no,  it  were 
being  too  familiar  even  to  let  his  bones  lie  there,  —  the  home,  this,  of 
Necessity  and  Fate.  There  was  there  felt  the  presence  of  a  force  not 
bound  to  be  kind  to  man.  It  was  a  place  for  heathenism  and  supersti- 
tious rites,  —  to  be  inhabited  by  men  nearer  of  kin  to  the  rocks  and  to 
wild  animals  tlian  we.  We  walked  over  it  with  a  certain  awe,  stop- 
ping from  time  to  time  to  pick  the  blueberries  which  grew  there,  and 
had  a  smart  and  spicy  taste.  Perchance  where  our  wild  pines  stand, 
and  leaves  lie  on  their  forest  floor,  in  Concord,  there  were  once 
reapers,  and  husbandmen  planted  grain;  but  here  not  even  the  sur- 
face had  been  scarred  by  man,  but  it  was  a  specimen  of  what  God  saw 
fit  to  make  this  world.  AYliat  is  it  to  be  admitted  to  a  museum,  to  see 
a  myriad  of  particular  things,  compared  with  being  shown  some  star's 
surface,  some  hard  matter  in  its  home!  I  stand  in  awe  of  my  body, 
this  matter  to  which  I  am  bound  has  become  so  strange  to  me.  I  fear 
not  spirits,  ghosts,  of  which  I  am  one,  —  that  my  body  might,  — but 
I  fear  bodies,  I  tremble  to  meet  them.  What  is  this  Titan  that  has 
possession  of  me?  Talk  of  mysteries!  Think  of  our  life  in  nature; 
daily  to  be  shown  matter,  to  come  in  contact  with  it,  —  rocks,  trees, 
wind  on  our  cheeks!  the  solid  earth!  the  actual  world!  the  common 
sense!    Contact!    Contact!    Who  Sive  we?  ivhere  ^ive  we  ? 

"  Erelong  we  recognized  some  rocks  and  other  features  in  the  land- 
scape which  we  had  purposely  impressed  on  our  memories,  and,  quick- 
ening our  pace,  by  two  o'clock  we  reached  the  bateau.  Here  we  had 
expected  to  dine  on  trout,  but  in  this  glaring  sunlight  they  were  slow 
to  take  the  bait,  so  we  were  compelled  to  make  the  most  of  the  crumbs 


230 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


of  our  hard  bread  and  our  pork,  which  were  both  nearly  exhausted. 
Meanwhile  we  deliberated  whether  we  should  go  up  the  river  a  mile 
farther,  to  Gibson's  clearing,  on  the  Nesowadnehunk,  where  there  was 
a  deserted  log-hut,  in  order  to  get  a  half-inch  auger,  to  mend  one  of 
our  spike-poles  with.  There  were  young  spruce-trees  enough  around 
us,  and  we  had  a  spare  spike,  but  nothing  to  make  a  hole  with.  But 
as  it  was  uncertain  whether  we  should  find  any  tools  left  there,  we 
patched  up  the  broken  pole  as  well  as  we  could  for  the  downward 
voyage,  in  which  there  would  be  but  little  use  for  it.  Moreover,  we 
were  unwilling  to  lose  any  time  in  this  expedition,  lest  the  wind 
should  rise  before  we  reached  the  larger  lakes,  and  detain  us;  for  a 
moderate  wind  produces  quite  a  sea  on  these  waters,  in  which  a  bateau 
will  not  live  for  a  moment;  and  on  one  occasion  McCauslin  had  been 
delayed  a  week  at  the  head  of  the  North  Twin,  which  is  only  four 
miles  across.  We  were  nearly  out  of  provisions,  and  ill-prepared  in 
this  respect  for  what  might  possibly  prove  a  week's  journey  round  by 
the  shore,  fording  innumerable  streams  and  threading  a  trackless 
forest,  should  any  accident  happen  to  our  boat." 

We  give  still  another  account  of  the  ascent  of  Ktaadn  by  Winthrop, 
before  alluded  to,  the  four  sketches  thoroughly  covering  the  subject:  — 

^'Kext  morning,  when  we  awoke,  just  before  the  gray  of  dawn,  the 
sky  was  clear  and  scintillating;  but  there  was  a  white-cotton  nightcap 
on  the  head  of  Ktaadn.  As  w^e  inspected  him,  he  drew  his  nightcap 
down  farther,  hinting  that  he  did  not  wish  to  see  the  sun  that  day. 
When  a  mountain  is  thus  in  the  sulks  after  a  storm,  it  is  as  well  not 
to  disturb  him;  he  will  not  offer  the  prize  of  a  view.  Experience 
taught  us  this;  but  then  experience  is  only  an  empiric  at  the  best. 

^'Besides,  whether  Ktaadn  were  bareheaded  or  cloud-capped,  it 
would  be  better  to  blunder  upward  than  lounge  all  day  in  camp,  and 
eat  Sybaritic  dinners.  We  longed  for  the  nervy  climb.  We  must 
have  it.  ^Up,'  said  tingling  blood  to  brain.  'Dash  through  the 
forest!  Grasp  the  crag,  and  leap  the  cleft!  Sweet  flash  forth  the 
streamlets  from  granite  fissures.  To  breathe  the  winds  that  smite  the 
peaks  is  life.' 

''  As  soon  as  dawn  bloomed  in  the  woods  we  breakfasted,  and  ferried 
the  river  before  sunrise.  The  ascent  subdivides  itself  into  five  zones. 
1.  A  scantily  wooded  acclivity,  where  bears  abound.  2.  A  dense, 
swampy  forest  region.  3.  Steep,  mossy  mountain-side,  heavily  wooded. 
4.  A  belt  of  dwarf  spruces,  nearly  impenetrable.    5.  Ragged  rock. 

''  Cancut  was  our  leader  to-day.    There  are  by  far  too  many  blue- 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


231 


berries  in  the  first  zone.  No  one,  of  course,  intends  to  dally,  but  the 
purple  beauties  tempted,  and  too  often  we  were  seduced.  Still  such 
yielding  spurred  us  on  to  hastier  speed,  when  we  looked  up  after  delay 
and  saw  the  self-denying  far  ahead. 

*'To  write  an  epic  or  climb  a  mountain  is  merely  a  dogged  thing; 
the  result  is  more  interesting  to  most  than  the  process.  Mountains, 
being  cloud-compellers,  are  rain-shedders,  and  the  shed-water  will  not 
always  flow  with  decorous  gayety  in  dell  or  glen.  Sometimes  it  stays 
bewildered  in  a  bog,  and  here  the  climber  must  plunge.  In  the  moist 
places  great  trees  grow,  die,  fall,  rot,  and  barricade  the  way  with  their 
corpses.  Ktaadn  has  to  endure  all  the  ills  of  mountain  being,  and  we 
had  all  the  usual  difficulties  to  fight  through  doggedly.  When  we 
were  clumsy,  we  tumbled  and  rose  up  torn.  Still  we  plodded  on,  fol- 
lowing a  patli  blazed  by  the  Bostonians,  —  Cancut's  late  charge,  —  and 
we  grumblingly  thanked  them. 

*' Going  up,  we  got  higher  and  drier.  The  mountain-side  became 
steeper  than  it  could  stay,  and  several  land-avalanches,  ancient  or 
modern,  crossed  our  path.  It  would  be  sad  to  think  that  all  the  eternal 
hills  were  crumbling  thus  outwardly,  unless  we  knew  that  they  bubble 
lip  inwardly  as  fast.  Posterity  is  thus  cared  for  in  regard  to  the  pictu- 
resque. Cascading  streams  also  shot  by  us,  carrying  light  and  music. 
From  them  we  stole  refreshment,  and  did  not  find  the  w^aters  mineral 
and  astringent,  as  Mr.  Turner,  the  first  climber,  calunmiously  asserts. 

The  trees  were  still  large  and  surprisingly  parallel  to  the  mountain 
wall.  Deep,  soft  moss  covered  whatever  was  beneath,  and  sometimes 
this  would  yield  and  let  the  foot  measure  a  crevice.  Perilous  pitfalls; 
but  we  clambered  unharmed.  The  moss,  so  rich,  deep,  soft,  and 
earthily  fragrant,  w^as  a  springy  stair-carpet  of  a  steep  stairway.  And 
sometimes  when  the  carpet  slipped,  and  the  state  of  heels  over  head 
seemed  imminent,  we  held  to  the  baluster-trees,  as  one  after  wassail 
clings  to  the  lamp-post. 

^'Even  on  this  minor  mountain  the  law  of  diminishing  vegetation 
can  be  studied.  The  great  trees  abandoned  us,  and  stayed  indolently 
down  in  shelter.  Next  the  little  wiry  trees  ceased  to  be  the  comrades 
of  our  climb.  They  were  no  longer  to  be  seen  planted  upon  jutting 
crags,  and,  bold  as  standard-bearers,  inciting  us  to  mount  higher. 
Big  spruces,  knobby  with  balls  of  gum,  dwindled  away  into  little  ugly 
dwarf  spruces,  hostile  as  dwarfs  are  said  to  be  always  to  human  com- 
fort. They  grew  man-high,  and  hedged  themselves  together  into  a 
dense  thicket.    We  could  not  go  under,  nor  over,  nor  through.  To 


232 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


traverse  them  at  all,  we  must  recall  the  period  when  we  were  squirrels 
or  cats,  in  some  former  state  of  being. 

"Somehow  we  pierced,  as  man  does  ever,  whether  he  owes  it  to 
the  beast  or  man  in  him.  From  time  to  time,  when  in  this  struggle 
we  came  to  an  open  point  of  rock,  we  would  remember  that  we  were 
on  high,  and  turn  to  assure  ourselves  that  nether  earth  was  where  we 
had  left  it.  We  always  found  it  in  situ,  in  belts,  green,  white,  and 
blue,  a  tricolor  of  woods,  water,  and  sky.  Lakes  were  there  without 
number,  forest  without  limit.  We  could  not  analyze  yet,  for  there 
was  work  to  do.  Also,  whenever  we  paused,  there  was  the  old  tempta- 
tion, blueberries.  Every  outcropping  ledge  offered  store  of  tonic, 
ozone-fed  blueberries,  or  of  mountain-cranberries,  crimson  and  of  con- 
centrated flavor,  or  of  tlie  white  snowberry,  most  delicate  of  fruits 
that  grow. 

As  w^e  were  creeping  over  the  top  of  the  dwarf-wood,  Cancut,  who 
was  in  advance,  suddenly  disappeared;  he  seemed  to  fall  through  a 
gap  in  the  spaces,  and  we  heard  his  voice  calling  in  cavernous  tones. 
We  crawled  forward  and  looked  over.  It  was  the  upper  camp  of  the 
Bostonians.  They  had  profited  by  a  hole  in  the  rocks,  and  chopped 
away  the  stunted  scrubs  to  enlarge  it  into  a  snug  artificial  abyss.  It 
w^as  snug,  and  so  to  the  eye  is  a  cell  at  Sing-Sing.  If  they  were  very 
misshapen  Bostonians,  they  may  have  succeeded  in  lying  there  com- 
fortably. I  looked  down  ten  feet  into  the  rough  chasm,  and  I  saw,  — 
Corpo  di  Bacco  !  —  I  saw  a  cork. 

"  To  this  station  our  predecessors  had  come  in  an  easy  day's  walk 
from  the  river;  here  they  had  tossed  through  a  night,  and  given  a 
whole  day  to  finish  the  ascent,  returning  hither  again  for  a  second 
night.  As  we  purposed  to  put  all  this  travel  within  one  day,  we  could 
not  stay  and  sympathize  with  the  late  tenants.  A  little  more  squirrel- 
like skipping  and  cat-like  creeping  over  the  spruces,  and  we  were  out 
among  bulky  bowlders  and  rough  debris  on  a  shoulder  of  the  mountain. 
Alas!  the  higher,  the  more  hopeless.  Ktaadn,  as  he  had  taken  pains 
to  inform  us,  meant  to  wear  the  veil  all  day.  He  was  drawing  down 
the  white  drapery  about  his  throat  and  letting  it  fall  over  his  shoulders. 
Sun  and  wind  struggled  mightily  with  his  sulky  fit;  sunshine  lifted  off 
bits  of  the  veil,  and  wind  seized,  whirled  them  away,  and,  dragging 
them  over  the  spruces  below,  tore  them  to  rags.  Evidently  if  we 
wished  to  see  the  world  we  must  stop  here  and  survey,  before  the 
growing  vapor  covered  all.  We  climbed  to  the  edge  of  Cloudland,  and 
stood  fronting  the  semicircle  of  southward  view. 


AND  NOllTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


233 


Ktaadn's  self  is  finer  than  wliat  Ktaadn  sees.  Ktaadn  is  distinct, 
and  its  view  is  indistinct.  It  is  a  vague  panorama,  a  mappy,  un- 
methodic  maze  of  water  and  woods,  very  roomy,  very  vast,  very  simple, 
—  and  these  are  capital  qualities,  —  but  also  quite  monotonous.  A 
lover  of  largeness  and  scope  has  the  proper  emotions  stirred,  but  a 
lover  of  variety  very  soon  finds  himself  counting  the  lakes.  It  is 
a  wide  view,  and  it  is  a  proud  thing  for  a  man  six  feet  or  less  high  to 
feel  that  he  himself,  standing  on  something  he  himself  has  climbed, 
and  having  Ktaadn  under  his  feet  a  mere  convenience,  can  see  all 
Maine.  It  does  not  make  Maine  less,  but  the  spectator  more,  and 
that  is  a  useful  moral  result.  Maine's  face  thus  exposed  has  almost 
no  features;  there  are  no  great  mountains  visible,  none  that  seem 
inore  than  green  hillocks  in  the  distance.  Besides  sky,  Ktaadn's  view 
contains  only  the  two  primal  necessities  of  wood  and  water.  No- 
where have  I  seen  such  breadth  of  solemn  forest,  gloomy,  were  it  not 
for  the  cheerful  interruption  of  many  fair  lakes  and  bright  ways  of 
river  linking  them. 

''Far  away  on  the  southern  horizon  we  detected  the  heights  of 
Mount  Desert,  our  old  familiar  haunt.  All  the  northern  semicircle 
was  lost  to  us  by  the  fog.  We  lost  also  the  view  of  the  mountain 
itself.  All  the  bleak,  lonely,  barren,  ancient  w^aste  of  the  bare  summit 
was  shrouded  in  cold  fog.  The  impressive  gray  ruin  and  Titanic 
havoc  of  a  granite  mountain-top,  the  heaped  bowlders,  the  crumbling 
crags,  the  crater-like  depression,  the  long  stern  reaches  of  sierra,  the 
dark  curving  slopes,  channelled  and  polished  by  the  storms  and  fine 
drifting  mists  of  [eons,  the  downright  plunge  of  precipices,  all  the 
savageness  of  harsh  rock,  unsoftened  by  other  vegetation  than  rusty 
moss  and  the  dull  green  splashes  of  lichen, — all  this  was  hiddeu 
except  when  the  mist,  white  and  delicate  where  we  stood,  but  thick 
and  black  above,  opened  whimsically  and  delusively,  as  mountain  mists 
will  do,  and  gave  us  vistas  into  the  upper  desolation.  After  such 
momentary  rifts  the  mist  thickened  again,  and  swooped  forward  as  if 
to  involve  our  station;  but  noon  sunshine,  reverberated  from  the 
plains  and  valleys  and  lakes  below,  was  our  ally;  sunshine  checked 
the  overcoming  mist,  and  it  stayed  overhead,  an  unwelcome  parasol, 
making  our  August  a  chilly  N^ovember.  Besides  what  our  eyes  lost, 
our  minds  lost,  unless  they  had  imagination  enough  to  create  it,  — the 
sentiment  of  triumph  and  valiant  energy  that  the  man  of  body  and 
soul  feels  upon  the  windy  heights,  the  highest,  whence  he  looks  far 
and  wide,  like  a  master  of  realms,  and  knows  that  the  world  is  his ; 


234 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


and  they  lost  the  sentiment  of  solemn  joy  that  the  man  of  soul  recog- 
nizes as  one  of  the  surest  intimations  of  immortality  stirring  within 
him  whenever  he  is  in  the  unearthly  regions,  the  higher  world. 

"We  stayed  studying  the  pleasant  solitude  and  dreamy  breath  of 
Ktaadn's  panorama  for  a  long  time,  and  every  moment  the  inystery 
of  the  mist  above  grew  more  enticing.  Pride  also  was  awakened. 
We  turned  from  sunshine  and  Cosmos  into  fog  and  Chaos.  We  made 
ourselves  quite  miserable  for  naught.  We  clambered  up  into  Nowhere, 
into  a  great,  white,  ghostly  void.  We  saw  nothing  but  the  rough 
surface  we  trod.  We  pressed  along  crater-like  edges,  and  all  below 
was  filled  with  mist,  troubled  and  rushing  upward  like  the  smoke  of  a 
volcano.  Up  we  went,  —  nothing  but  granite  and  gray  dimness. 
Where  we  arrived  we  know  not.  It  was  a  top  certainly;  that  was 
proved  by  the  fact  that  there  was  nothing  within  sight.  We  cannot 
claim  that  it  was  the  topmost  top;  Kinchin jinga  might  have  towered 
within  pistol-shot;  popgun-shot  was  our  extremest  range  of  vision 
except  for  one  instant,  when  a  kind-hearted  sunbeam  gave  us  a 
vanishing  glimpse  of  a  white  lake  and  breadth  of  forest  far  in  the 
unknown  North  toward  Canada. 

"When  we  had  thus  reached  the  height  of  our  folly  and  made 
nothing  by  it,  we  addressed  ourselves  to  the  descent,  no  wiser  for  our 
pains.  Descent  is  always  harder  than  ascent,  for  divine  ambitions 
are  stronger  and  more  prevalent  than  degrading  passions.  And  when 
Ktaadn  is  befogged,  descent  is  much  more  perilous  than  ascent.  We 
edged  along  very  cautiously  by  remembered  landmarks  the  way  we 
had  come,  and  so,  after  a  dreary  march  of  a  mile  or  so  through  deso- 
lation, issued  into  welcome  sunshine  and  warmth  at  our  point  of 
departure.  When  I  said  '  we,'  I  did  not  include  the  gravestone  pedler. 
He,  like  a  sensible  fellow,  had  determined  to  stay  and  eat  berries 
rather  than  breathe  fog.  While  we  wasted  our  time,  he  had  made 
the  most  of  his.  lie  had  cleared  Ktaadn's  shoulders  of  fruit,  and 
now,  cuddled  in  a  sunny  cleft,  slept  the  sleep  of  the  well-fed.  His 
red  shirt  was  a  cheerful  beacon  on  our  weary  way.  We  took  in  the 
landscape  with  one  slow,  comprehensive  look,  and  waking  Cancut 
suddenly  (who  sprang  to  his  feet  amazed,  and  cried  *rire!')  we 
dashed  down  the  mountain  side. 

"  It  was  long  after  noon;  we  were  some  dozen  miles  from  camp;  we 
must  speed.  No  glissade  was  possible,  nor  plunge  such  as  travellers 
make  down  through  the  ash-heaps  of  Vesuvius;  but,  having  once 
worried  through  the  wretched  little  spruces,  mean  counterfeits  of 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


237 


trees,  we  could  fling  ourselves  down  from  mossy  step  to  step,  measur- 
ing off  the  distance  by  successive  leaps  of  a  second  each,  and  alight- 
ing on  moss  yielding  as  a  cushion. 

*'0n  we  hastened,  retracing  our  footsteps  of  the  morning  across  the 
avalanches  of  crumbled  granite,  through  the  bogs,  along  the  brooks; 
undelayed  by  the  beauty  of  sunny  glade  or  shady  dell,  never  stopping 
to  botanize  or  to  classify,  we  traversed  zone  after  zone,  and  safely  ran 
the  gauntlet  of  the  possible  bears  on  the  last  level.  We  found  lowland 
Nature  still  the  same;  Aboljackarmegas  was  flowing  still;  so  was 
Penobscot;  no  pirate  had  made  way  with  the  birch;  we  embarked  and 
paddled  to  camp. 

"  The  first  thing,  when  we  touched  terra  firma,  was  to  look  back 
regretfully  toward  the  mountain.  Regret  changed  to  wratli  when  we 
perceived  its  summit  all  clear  and  mistless,  smiling  warm.ly  to  the  low 
summer's  sun.  The  rascal  evidently  had  only  waited  until  we  were 
out  of  sight  in  the  woods  to  throw  away  his  night-cap. 

One  long  rainy  day  had  somewhat  disgusted  us  with  the  old  hem- 
lock-covered camp  in  the  glade  of  the  yellow  birch,  and  we  were 
reasonably  and  not  unreasonably  morbid  after  our  disappointment 
with  Ktaadn.  We  resolved  to  decamp.  In  the  last  hour  of  surdight, 
floating  pleasantly  from  lovely  reach  to  reach,  and  view  to  view,  we 
€ould  choose  a  spot  of  bivouac  where  no  home-scenery  would  recall 
any  sorry  fact  of  the  past.  We  loved  this  gentle  gliding  by  the  tender 
light  of  evening  over  the  shadow^y  river,  marking  the  rhythm  of  our 
musical  progress  by  touches  of  the  paddle.  We  determined,  too,  that 
the  balance  of  bodily  forces  should  be  preserved:  legs  had  been  well 
stretched  over  the  bogs  and  bowlders;  now  for  the  arms. 

Never  did  our  sylvan  sojourn  look  so  fair  as  when  we  quitted  it, 
and  seemed  to  see  among  the  streaming  sunbeams  in  the  shadows 
the  hamadryads  of  the  spot  returned,  and  waving  us  adieux.  We 
forgot  how  damp  and  leaks  and  puddles  had  forced  themselves 
upon  our  intimacy  there:  we  remembered  that  we  were  gay,  though 
wet,  and  there  had  known  the  perfection  of  Aboljackarmegas  trout. 

"As  we  drifted  along  the  winding  river,  between  the  shimmering 
birches  on  either  bank,  Ktaadn  watched  us  w^ell.  Sometimes  he 
would  show  the  point  of  his  violet-gray  peak  over  the  woods,  and 
sometimes,  at  a  broad  bend  of  the  water,  he  revealed  himself  fully, 
and  threw  his  great  image  down  beside  for  our  nearer  view.  We 
began  to  believe  him,  to  disbelieve  in  any  personal  spite  of  his, 
and  to  recall  that  he  himself,  seen  thus,  was  far  more  precious  than 


238 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE. 


any  mappy  dulness  we  could  have  seen  from  his  summit.  One 
great  upright  pyramid  like  this  was  worth  a  continent  of  grovelling 
acres. 

"Sunset  came,  and  with  it  we  landed  at  a  point  below  a  lake-like 
stretch  of  the  river,  where  the  charms  of  a  neighbor  and  a  distant 
view  of  the  mountain  combined.  Cancut,  the  Unwearied,  roofed 
with  boughs  an  old  frame  for  drying  moose-hides,  while  Iglesias 
sketched,  and  I  worshipped  Ktaadn.  Has  my  reader  heard  enough  of 
It,  —  a  hillock  only  six  thousand  feet  high  ?  We  are  soon  to  drift 
away,  and  owe  it  here  as  kindly  a  farewell  as  it  gave  us  in  that 
radiant  twilight  by  the  river. 

''From  our  point  of  view  we  raked  the  long  stern  front  tending 
westward.  Just  before  sunset,  from  beneath  a  belt  of  clouds  eva^ 
nescing  over  the  summit,  an  inconceivably  tender,  brilliant  glow  of 
rosy  violet  mantled  downward,  filling  all  the  valley.  Then  the  violet 
purpled  richer  and  richer,  and  darkened  slowly  to  solemn  blue,  that 
blended  with  the  gloom  of  the  pines  and  shadowy  channelled  gorges 
down  the  steep.  The  peak  was  still  in  sunlight,  and  suddenly,  half- 
way down,  a  band  of  roseate  clouds,  twining  and  changing  like  a 
choir  of  Bacchantes,  soared  around  the  western  edge  and  hung  poised 
above  the  unillumined  forest  at  the  mountain-base ;  light  as  air  they 
came  and  went  and  faded  away,  ghostly,  after  their  work  of  momen- 
tary beauty  was  done.  One  slight  maple,  prematurely  ripened  to 
crimson  and  heralding  the  pomp  of  autumn,  repeated  the  bright 
cloud-color  amid  the  vivid  verdure  of  a  little  island,  and  its  image 
wavering  in  the  water  sent  the  flame  floating  nearly  to  our  feet. 

'*  Such  are  the  transcendent  moments  of  nature,  unseen  and  dis- 
believed by  the  untaught.  Iglesias,  having  an  additional  method  of 
preservation,  did  not  fail  to  pencil  rapidly  the  wondrous  scene.  When 
he  had  finished  his  dashing  sketch  of  this  glory,  so  transitory,  he 
peppered  the  whole  with  cabalistic  cipher,  which  only  he  could  inter- 
pret into  beauty." 


OHAPTEE  XIV. 


DOWN  THE  WEST  URASCU  — {concluded). 


pEAYI^^'G  the  cainping-grouiid  opposite  the  mouth  of 
Aboljackarmegassic,  or  Sandy  Stream,  we  paddle  easily 
along  for  half  a  mile,  the  current  assisting  our  onward 
progress.  Then  we  land  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river, 
and  make  a  carry  of  about  eighty  yards  around  Abol- 
jackarmegas  Falls.  Launching  our  birch  again,  we  pursue  our  way 
down  the  river,  occasionally  startled  by  the  scream  of  a  bald  eagle, 
cleaving  the  air  above  us,  or  of  the  fish-hawks,  who,  from  force,  are 
obliged  to  furnish  him  with  many  a  meal,  although  most  grudgingly. 
The  scenery  is  never  tame,  the  air  is  pure  and  sweet,  and  as  we  drift 
along  we  experience  the  fulness  of  delight.  There  is  something  in 
this  wilderness  that  throws  a  charm  about  one  whether  he  will  or  not. 
But  after  a  short  run  of  three-quarters  of  a  mile  we  hear  the  musical 
murmur  of  swift  water,  and  we  make  another  landing  to  carry  around 
Pockwockamus  Falls.  This  carry  is  forty  or  fifty  rods  in  length, 
rough  and  rocky,  and,  like  the  Abol.  Carry,  is  on  the  right  side  of  the 
river. 

Floating  down  the  stream  again,  which  beyond  here  is  narrow  and 
crooked  for  three  miles,  we  pass  several  poke  logans,  —  an  Indian 
term.  These  are  little  inlets,  generally  swampy,  that  lead  nowhere  in 
particular.  If  you  run  into  one  you  have  to  retrace  your  course  the 
same  way.  Once  in  a  while  we  passed  a  ''run-round''  leading  off 
from  the  river,  but  always  coming  in  again.  These  are  the  bete  noir 
of  the  inexperienced  voyager.  Along  this  part  of  the  river  there  are 
several  islands,  covered  with  coarse  grass,  and  for  several  miles  along 
the  banks  there  is  more  or  less  wild  meadow-land.  From  the  Pock- 
wockamus Dead  Water,  and  also  from  other  points  on  the  river  below, 
good  views  of  Ktaadn's  retreating  form  are  obtained.  Katepskonegan 
Falls  and  Lake  are  next  reached.    The  falls  are  of  some  little  magni- 

239 


240 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSE  HEAD  LAKE 


tucle,  and  quite  romantic.  At  the  foot  of  the  falls  large  numbers  of 
trout  have  been  caught.    The  lake  is  three  miles  long,  shallow  and 

weedy,  suggestive  of  pickerel. 
After  crossing  the  carry,  on 
the  right,  about  half  a  mile 
long,  we  again  embark,  and 
float  swiftly  along  the  beau- 
tiful riverwhose  bosom 
^     has  borne  us  so  long 
that  we  have  come  to 


regard  it  as  a  friend,  and  love  it 
none  the  less  for  its  changeable 
moods.     At  the  end  of  the  lake, 
or  dead  water,  we  reach  Passama- 
gamock  Falls,  which  may  be  run  on  the  setting-pole,  or  you  can  carry 
around  on  the  left  bank.    Beyond  here  you  find  plenty  of  swift  water, 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


241 


and  occasional  rapids.  Reaching  Anibajejus  Falls,  two  miles  beyond 
Passaniaganiock  Falls,  we  halt,  and  our  canoe  is  once  more  taken  out 
and  over  the  carry  we  go.  The  old  song,  which  says  that  "  Jordan  is 
a  hard  road  to  travel,"  is  very  applicable  to  the  Ambajejus  carry;  for 
if  that  is  not  "  a  hard  road  to  travel,"  then  you  never  saw  one.  But 
the  bitter  and  the  sweet  alike  must  have  an  end,  and  finally  you  dump 
the  last  of  your  load  at  the  lower  end  of  the  carry,  and  a  deep  sigh  of 
satisfaction  involuntarily  wells  up  from  your  heart.  This  carry  is  on 
the  left,  and  is  half  a  mile  long.  After  a  slight  rest  our  bonny  bark 
is  again  launched  on  the  stream,  and,  nodding  to  old  Ktaadn,  who  is 
still  in  sight,  our  paddles  dip  and  on  we  float  for  about  half  a  mile 
from  the  falls,  when  the  river,  ever  changing,  broadens  into  Ambaje- 
jus Lake,  a  beautiful  stretch  of  water  four  mdes  long.  A  fine  view  of 
Mount  Ktaadn  is  obtained  from  this  lake.  Again  we  paddle  onward, 
and  mile  after  mile  is  passed.  From  river  to  lake,  from  lake  to  river 
again,  from  the  calmest  and  smoothest  of  water  to  the  swift  rapids 
flecked  with  foam,  the  charm  of  the  hour  being  largely  due  to  this 
agreeable  variety  that  follows  one  from  sunrise  to  sunset. 

We  once  more  change  from  river  to  lake,  —  from  Penobscot  to 
Pamedomcook,  one  of  the  most  irregular  lakes  in  the  Maine  wilder- 
ness. Midway  of  the  southern  shore  of  Pamedomcook  Lake  is  the 
inlet  of  the  Jo  Merry  Lakes,  the  stream  being  a  mile  and  a  half  long. 
A  carry  road  runs  from  lake  to  lake  on  the  easterly  side  of  the  river. 
Plying  our  paddles,  we  follow  the  easterly  shore  of  this  the  largest  lake 
we  have  seen  since  leaving  Chesuncook,  passing  several  islands  on  our 
way,  and  reach  the  North  Twin  Lake,  a  much  smaller  sheet  of  water. 
Paddling  across  this  for  four  miles,  and  passing  South  Twin  Lake, 
from  the  western  end  of  which  a  logging- road  leads  to  the  county 
road,  and  thence  to  the  railroad  station  of  Brown ville,  and  down  the 
river  for  two  miles,  you  reach  a  dam,  and  find  a  house  near  it.  Meals 
can  be  obtained  here  if  desired.  Crossing  Quakish  Lake,  distant  one 
mile,  then  paddling  dow  n  river  through  a  mile  of  quick  water,  brings 
you  to  a  carry  on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  Penobscot.  The  carry  road 
is  two  miles  long,  and  ends  at  Fowler's  on  Millinokett  Stream.  Here 
you  can  obtain  a  team  to  haul  your  baggage  and  canoe  across,  and  by 
making  this  overland  trip,  and  then  paddling  down  Millinokett  Stream 
for  a  mile,  you  reach  the  Penobscot  again,  having  saved  ten  or  twelve 
miles  of  rough  water.  Grand  Falls,  nearly  fifteen  feet  high,  are  about 
two  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Millinokett  Stream,  and  it  will  pay  you 
to  paddle  this  short  distance  to  take  a  look  at  them.    Beyond  this 


242 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE. 


there  are  several  smaller  bulges  in  the  river,  and  through  all  these  we 
pursue  our  way,  until  we  finally  reach  Mattawamkeag,  where  we  stop 
to  look  around  a  little,  stopping  there  over  night  if  we  have  the  time. 
If  you  wish  you  can  end  your  trip  here,  and  take  the  cars  of  the  Maine 
Central  Railroad  for  Bangor.  But  if  you  are  not  yet  tired  of  the 
canoe,  you  can  continue  on  down  the  river,  passing  Winn,  Lincoln, 
Enfield,  Passadumkeag,  and  other  places,  until  you  reach  the  dams  at 
Oldtown,  twelve  miles  from  Bangor,  where  canoe  navigation  ceases, 
and  where  you  will  reluctantly  say  farewell  to  the  faithful  birch,  in 
which  you  have  floated  from  the  deepest  wilds  of  the  forest  to  the 
civilization  of  a  town. 

During  a  trip  between  Moosehead  and  Oldtown,  a  person  will  learn 
enough  about  a  canoe  to  be  of  great  service  in  his  next  voyage.  You 
will  also  see  some  of  the  most  beautiful  parts  of  the  State,  and  obtain 
a  good  idea  of  how  Eastern  Maine  looks.  Such  a  trip  will  occupy 
about  ten  days.  You  can  make  it  some  shorter  or  considerably  longer, 
as  your  inclination  may  dictate.  You  should  leave  behind  all  useless 
luggage,  and  take  only  such  articles  as  are  absolutely  necessary.  After 
carrying  over  two  or  three  portages,  you  will  be  surprised  to  find  out 
how  many  things  you  have  taken,  that  at  the  start  you  thought  you 
could  not  get  along  without,  but  which,  from  personal  experience  on 
carries,  you  would  afterward  gladly  dispense  with.  A  light  axe,  gun, 
ammunition,  fishing-tackle,  matches,  pepper,  salt,  coffee,  sugar,  con- 
densed milk,  tin  cup,  knife,  spoon,  frying-pan.  small  iron  kettle, 
coffee-pot,  compass,  needles,  thread,  and  buttons,  are  all  you  need  on 
a  long  cruise  in  the  woods.  And  the  above  list  of  articles  might 
easily  be  cut  down  one-half  if  necessity  required  it. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


TOURS  BEYOND  MOOSEHEAD.  —  DOWN  THE  EAST 
BRANCH  OF  THE  PENOBSCOT.  —  UP  THE  NORTH 
BRANCH  OF  THE  PENOBSCOT. 

N  giving  an  idea  of  the  excursion  down  the  East 
Branch  of  the  Penobscot,  we  will  only  briefly 
allude  to  that  part  of  the  country  that  we  have 
already  been  over  on  the  trip  down  the  West 
Branch. 

As  before,  you  cross  the  northeast  carry, 
and,  launching  upon  the  West  Branch,  follow  it 
to  Lake  Cliesuncook.  Reaching  this  beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  you  turn  north w^ard,  and  cross  the  upper  end  of  the 
lake;  from  here,  looking  southeast,  the  eye  takes  in  the  whole  length 
of  the  lake,  the  forest  beyond,  and  Jo  Merry  Mountain,  the  most  dis- 
tant object  visible.  Crossing  the  lake  is  a  pleasant  change,  after 
floating  down  a  river  where  one's  range  of  vision  is  obscured  by  the 
forest  along  its  bank.  The  open  expanse  of  water,  across  which  one 
can  look  for  miles,  the  wide  sweep  of  sky,  and  the  enlarged  landscape, 
is  preferable  on  some  accounts  to  the  contracted  space  of  the  river. 
And  no  small  part  of  the  preference  for  the  change  comes  from  the 
ease  with  which  you  paddle  over  the  smooth  surface  of  the  lake. 
Where  before  was  care  and  excitement  is  now  peace  and  careless 
indolence.  No  furious  rapids  or  impassable  falls  endanger  your  lives 
or  impede  your  progress.  But  with  your  voices  attuned  to  song,  you 
ply  your  paddles,  keeping  time  with  your  music,  and  mile  after  mile 
is  easily  if  not  speedily  accomplished. 

Passing  the  Caucomgomoc  Stream,  which  empties  into  Chesuncook 
on  your  left,  you  continue  your  way.  The  stream  flows  from  Cau- 
comgomoc Lake,  which  lies  about  twelve  miles  northwest  of  the 
head  of  Chesuncook.  It  is  an  easy  trip  up  to  Caucomgomoc,  the 
water  being  smooth,  with  the  exception  of  three  miles  at  the  upper 

243 


244 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


end  of  the  stream,  and  two  short  falls.  A  tote- road  runs  from  oppo- 
site the  hotel  at  Chesuncook  Lake,  up  the  west  side  of  the  Caucom- 
gomoc  Kiver,  touching  it  at  two  different  points.  For  two  miles  or 
more  the  upper  end  of  this  road  runs  across  high  land,  and  is  dry  and 
in  good  condition.  A  pool  just  below  the  outlet  of  the  lake  furnishes 
good  trout-fishing,  and  you  can  also  make  good  catches  at  the  mouth 
of  the  streams  you  pass  on  your  w^ay  up  river.  This  lake  is  a  beauti- 
ful sheet  of  water,  and  there  are  not  many  prettier  spots  in  Maine. 
It  is  about  seven  miles  long  and  three  wide.  At  its  broadest  part  it  is 
quite  irregular  in  shape,  and  contains  several  small  islands.  The  best 
camping-places  are  at  the  upper  end  of  the  lake,  on  the  west  shore. 
There  is  good  fishing  at  various  places  in  Caucomgomoc  Lake.  It 
is  a  day's  trip  from  Chesuncook  to  Caucomgomoc,  the  carry  around 
the  "horse-race"  taking  about  three  hours.  A  mile  or  more  up 
Avery  Brook  brings  you  to  Avery  Pond,  full  of  small  trout,  and  from 
the  lower  end  of  this  pond,  a  good  carry  about  nine  miles  long 
extends  to  the  Woboostoock  Stream,  hitting  it  about  two  miles  from 
Baker  Lake.  From  the  northeast  corner  of  Caucomgomoc  Lake  to 
Bound  Pond  is  about  three  miles,  and  a  carry  leaving  the  north- 
western extremity  of  the  pond,  and  running  along  a  range  of  moun- 
tains for  four  miles  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  comes  out  at  Allagash 
Lake,  and  from  this  point  you  can  reach  Chamberlain  Lake  by  water. 
A  tote-road  runs  from  the  upper  end  of  Caucomgomoc  Lake  south  to 
Loon  Lake,  a  pretty  sheet  of  water  three  miles  long,  and  from  one  to 
two  wide.  The  Hurd  Ponds  empty  into  it  at  its  northern  end.  Turn- 
ing northeasterly  you  enter  the  Umbazookskus,  ten  miles  long,  a 
sluggish  stream,  with  considerable  meadow-land  on  either  side.  Along 
the  edge  of  the  meadow  extends  a  belt  of  dead  trees,  killed  by  the 
back-water  from  the  dam  at  the  foot  of  Chesuncook.  As  you  ascend 
the  Umbazookskus,  it  contracts  much  in  width,  but  little  in  depth, 
and  finally  the  paddle  gives  place  to  the  setting-pole.  Several  miles 
more  of  poling,  with  now  and  then  a  short  carry,  by  way  of  amuse- 
ment, and  you  reach  Umbazookskus  Lake,  possibly  four  or  five  miles 
long,  stretching  northwesterly  from  the  outlet.  A  good  road  runs 
on  the  right  up  to  the  lake.  Pursuing  your  way  across  the  northeast 
end  of  the  lake,  you  arrive  at  the  Mud  Pond  carry.  Through  the 
summer  a  team  and  "jumper"  are  always  on  hand  to  haul  canoes  and 
luggage  across  the  carry  for  from  four  to  five  dollars  a  load. 

Umbazookskus  Lake  is  the  head  of  the  Penobscot  in  this  direction, 
and  Mud  Pond  is  the  nearest  bend  of  the  Allagash,  one  of  the  prin- 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


245 


cipal  sources  of  the  St.  John  River.  Hodge,  who  went  through  this 
way  to  the  St.  Lawrence  in  the  service  of  the  State,  calls  the  portage 
here  a  mile  and  three-quarters  long,  and  states  that  Mud  Pond  is  four- 
teen feet  higher  than  Umbazookskus  Lake.  Mud  Pond  is  considera- 
bly more  than  half-way  from  Umbazookskus  to  Chamberlain  Lake, 
into  which  it  empties.  This  is  one  of  the  worst  carries  there  is  in  the 
State,  wet,  muddy,  and  boggy.  Large  bowlders  and  dead  falls  cov- 
ered with  slippery  moss  add  to  the  attractiveness  (?)  of  this  path  in 
the  wilderness.  Black  flies  and  midges  seem  to  make  their  head- 
quarters in  this  vicinity,  and  assail  you  at  every  point.  Woe  betide 
you  if  you  have  not  some  preparation  with  which  to  anoint  your 
face  and  hands,  and  protect  yourself  in  a  measure  from  the  attacks 
of  these  merciless  freebooters  I  "  Jumboline  "  in  generous  quantities 
is  the  right  thing  in  the  right  place  while  crossing  the  Mud  Pond 
carry.  Reaching  the  pond,  which  is  nearly  round  and  about  a  mile 
wide,  with  very  shallow  water,  but  very  deep  mud,  you  paddle  across 
it  in  about  fifteen  minutes,  lift  over  the  dam,  and  then  run  the  rapids 
about  eighty  rods  long,  reaching  the  dead  water,  extending  for  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  to  Chamberlain  Lake  into  which  it  empties.  A 
good  carry  leads  from  the  left  side  of  the  dam  to  the  dead  water.  The 
outlet  for  quite  a  distance  is  generally  choked  up  with  all  kinds  of 
drift-wood  packed  firmly  together,  but  if  you  work  to  advantage,  and 
don't  lose  your  temper,  you  can  generally  work  through  it  in  from 
twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  and,  paddling  out  on  the  lake,  head  for 
Chamberlain  Farm,  nearly  opposite,  about  two  miles  distant. 

Leaving  the  landing  at  the  farm  you  paddle  down  the  lake  in  a 
southeast  direction,  obtaining  on  the  w^ay,  off  to  the  right,  fine  views 
of  the  beautiful  Nesowadnehunk  range  of  mountains;  reaching  the 
end  of  Chamberlain,  you  paddle  through  the  thoroughfare  half  a  mile 
long,  thence  across  Telosmis  Lake,  which  is  a  mile  and  a  half  long 
and  about  a  mile  wide.  Passing  on  into  Telos  Lake,  a  sheet  of  water 
about  four  miles  long,  and  from  half  a  mile  to  a  mile  wide,  you  paddle 
its  entire  length.  Soon  after  entering  it,  you  pass  the  mouth  of  a 
brook  on  your  right,  where  good  strings  of  trout,  averaging  a  pound 
each,  can  be  taken.  Chamberlain  Lake  proper  is  about  twelve  miles 
long,  and  between  tw^o  and  three  wide,  but,  including  Telos  Lake  and 
the  dead  w^ater  betw^een,  its  extreme  length  is  over  twenty  miles.  It  con- 
tains several  islands,  and  is  over  eleven  hundred  feet  above  tide-water. 
The  Chamberlain  Farm,  furnishing  a  resting-place  for  weary  voyagers, 
is  a  large  clearing  on  the  northern  side  of  the  lake,  belonging  to  E. 


246 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


Coe  of  Bangor,  and  the  Pingree  heirs  of  Salem,  Mass.,  who  own 
large  tracts  of  land  in  this  section  of  the  State.  A  log  house  and 
several  barns  comprise  the  settlement,  if  it  may  be  called  such.  If  you 
wish  to  stop  here  a  few  days  you  will  find  good  accommodation,  and 
ordinary  supplies  for  camping  can  be  bought  at  reasonable  prices. 

Thoreau,  in  his  "Maine  Woods,"  says:  "  Telos  Lake,  the  head  of 
the  St.  John  on  this  side,  and  Webster  Lake,  the  head  of  the  East 
Branch  of  the  Penobscot,  are  only  about  a  mile  apart,  and  they  are 
connected  by  a  ravine,  in  which  but  little  digging  is  required  to  make 
the  water  of  the  former,  which  is  the  highest,  flow  into  the  latter. 
This  canal,  which  is  something  less  than  a  mile  long,  and  about  four 
rods  wide,  was  made  a  few  years  before  my  first  visit  to  Maine.  Since 
then  the  lumber  of  the  Upper  Allagash  and  its  lakes  has  been  run 
down  the  Penobscot,  that  is,  up  the  Allagash,  which  here  consists 
principally  of  a  chain  of  large  and  stagnant  lakes,  whose  thorough- 
fares, or  river-links,  have  been  made  nearly  equally  stagnant  by  dam- 
ming, and  then  down  the  Penobscot.  The  rush  of  the  water  has 
produced  such  changes  in  the  canal,  that  it  has  now  the  appearance 
of  a  very  rapid  mountain  stream  flowing  through  a  ravine,  and  you 
would  not  suspect  that  any  digging  had  been  required  to  persuade  the 
waters  of  the  St.  John  to  flow  into  the  Penobscot  here.  It  was  so 
winding  that  one  could  see  but  little  way  down." 

Beaching  the  foot  of  the  lake,  you  pass  the  dam  in  the  most  con- 
venient way,  and  then  run  through  the  canal  with  your  birch,  and 
carry  your  load  around.  At  least,  this  is  the  safest  way  to  do,  for  this 
stream  is  crooked  and  very  rocky,  and  in  times  of  drought  contains 
very  little  water.  There  is  an  easy  carry  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the 
stream,  dry  most  of  the  way.  It  runs  through  the  old  Dwinel  place, 
then  follows  the  south  shore  of  Webster  Lake  to  the  dam,  and  from 
there  follows  Webster  Brook  and  Matagamonsis  Lake,  touching  at 
Trout  Brook  Farm,  and  from  there  runs  northeast  past  the  head  of 
Matagamon  Lake,  and  down  through  the  Aroostook  settlements  to 
Mattawamkeag,  on  the  Maine  Central  Railroad.  Embarking  at  the 
head  of  Webster  Lake,  which  is  about  three  miles  long,  and  possibly 
a  mile  long  in  the  widest  part,  you  quickly  cross  it,  and  reach  the 
dam.  There  are  good  fishing  and  hunting  in  this  vicinity.  Nearly 
all  of  the  lakes  in  the  wilderness  region  of  Maine  have  been  dammed, 
in  the  interests  of  the  lumbering  business. 

For  the  next  ten  miles  you  have  considerable  carrying  to  do,  as 
Webster  Stream,  although  about  sixty  feet  wide,  is  difficult  to  navi- 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


247 


gate.  It  is  very  shallow,  except  immediately  after  heavy  rains,  also 
rapid  and  rocky.  In  fact  it  is  almost  a  succession  of  heavy  rajDids 
and  perpendicular  falls,  from  three  to  five  feet  in  height,  culminating 
in  Grand  Falls,  fifty  feet  high,  within  two  miles  of  its  mouth. 

Between  the  rocks  and  the  shallows  you  find  yourself  in  hot  water 
most  of  the  time  if  you  attempt  to  run  this  stream,  and  if  you  don't 
stave  your  canoe  you  may  consider  yourself  lucky.  Occasionally  there 
is  a  mile  or  two  that  can  be  run  without  danger,  and  these  places  give 
you  a  rest  from  the  carries.  Reaching  the  deep  and  narrow  canon 
at  the  head  of  Grand  Falls,  you  run  your  canoe  into  an  eddy  on  the 
left,  under  the  shadows  of  a  rock  that  towers  five  hundred  feet 
heavenwards,  and  make  a  landing.  A  walk  of  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  across  Indian  Carry  will  bring  you  to  the  East  Branch  proper, 
running  at  right  angles  with  Webster  Stream.  But  before  leaving, 
take  a  look  at  Grand  Falls,  as  they  will  more  than  repay  you  for  the 
time  and  trouble. 

Launching  your  boat  on  the  East  Branch,  you  find  the  river  narrow, 
swift,  the  banks  fringed  with  tall  meadow-grass, — a  likely  place  for 
ducks.  The  mile  and  a  half  from  the  end  of  the  carry  to  Matanga- 
mooksis  Lake  is  swiftly  run,  and  you  paddle  out  on  that  lovely  body 
of  water  dotted  by  small  islands,  and  broken  up  into  numerous  bays 
and  coves  by  the  many  symmetrical  points  that  make  out  from  either 
shore.  This  lake  is  about  one  mile  wide,  and  nearly  four  long,  and  is 
surrounded  by  a  beautiful  forest  of  Norway  pine.  While  paddling 
down  the  lake,  the  Trout  Brook  and  Traveller  Mountains  may  be  seen 
in  the  southwest,  the  latter  range  keeping  you  company  for  many 
miles  below\ 

The  connecting  stream  between  Matangamooksis  and  Matangamook 
Lake  is  four  or  five  miles  long:  it  starts  out  at  the  right  of  the  bold 
ledge  near  its  foot.  From  the  top  of  this  ledge  one  has  a  good  view 
of  the  lake.  The  stream  flows  lazily  on,  turning  and  twisting  be- 
tween grassy  banks,  and  sometimes  widens  into  'logons," — good 
places  for  all  kinds  of  game,  —  and  at  last  empties  into  a  bay  at  the 
northwest  corner  of  the  lake,  with  several  small  islands  and  one  large 
one  plainly  visible,  bearing  south.  Hay  Brook,  the  outlet  of  several 
small  ponds,  empties  into  the  thoroughfare  on  the  left,  about  half  a 
mile  below  Matangamooksis,  sometimes  called  Second  Lake.  Three 
miles  farther  on,  the  tote-road  from  Telos  Lake  crosses  the  stream 
over  a  floating  bridge,  and  from  this  point  a  good  branch  road  runs  a 
mile  and  a  half  to  the  farm  on  Trout  Brook.    Canoes  will  have  to  be 


248 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


carried  around  the  bridge :  and  a  mile  farther  you  enter  Matangamook, 
or  Grand  Lake.  From  the  top  of  tlie  rocl^y  peak  of  the  larger  island, 
before  alluded  to,  a  splendid  view  of  the  lake  and  the  outlying  moun- 
tains can  be  had.  A  short  distance  below  the  island  we  reach  the 
mouth  of  Trout  Brook ;  a  paddle  of  a  mile  up  the  stream  will  bring 
you  to  the  landing  of  Trout  Brook  Farm  on  the  left. 

This  farm  was  cleared  up  about  fifty  years  ago,  and  consists  of  four 
hundred  acres  of  good  land,  four  houses,  and  eight  or  ten  barns.  It 
belongs  to  E.  S.  Coe,  Esq.,  of  Bangor,  and  is  a  good  place  to  stop  at, 
if  you  wish  to  rest,  or  procure  provisions;  and  there  are  good  fishing 
and  hunting  in  the  vicinity. 

About  three  miles  beyond  the  mouth  of  Trout  Brook  you  reach  the 
dam,  where  you  carry  round.  Half-way  down  the  lake  you  pass 
Moose  Cliff  on  the  right,  and,  just  before  reaching  the  dam,  a  rocky 
point,  both  striking  features  of  the  landscape.  The  extreme  width  of 
this  lake  at  the  northern  end  is  nearly  equal  to  its  length.  From 
Grand  Lake  to  the  junction  of  the  East  and  West  Branches  is  about 
seventy  miles.  Some  eight  miles  southeast  of  Grand  Lake  is  a  small 
pond  on  the  head  of  Bowlin  Brook,  and  tributary  to  the  East 
Branch,  whose  waters  are  colored  white  from  the  presence  of  lime. 
A  cave  in  the  rock,  and  partially  submerged,  was  explored  several 
years  ago  by  the  State  Geological  Survey.  Below  the  dam  you  find 
quick  water,  but  with  care  there  is  no  trouble  in  running  it.  To  Bill 
Fish  Brook,  on  the  right,  is  a  mile,  and  here  you  will  generally  find 
good  fishing.  Two  miles  more  bring  you  to  Webster's  Landing,  at  a 
high  bank  on  the  left;  and  another  two  miles  through  quiet  water, 
between  grand  old  forests,  bring  you  to  the  head  of  Stair  Falls,  which 
can  be  run  safely  in  high  water,  the  best  channel  being  on  the  left 
side;  but  if  the  water  is  low,  you  will  have  to  carry  around.  The 
landing  is  on  the  right  bank,  and  the  carry  is  about  forty  rods  long. 
A  little  below  the  falls  there  is  a  good  spring.  The  falls  appear  to  the 
best  advantage  looking  up  the  river  from  the  foot,  showing  four  or 
five  steps,  and  away  beyond  Matangamook  Mountain  looms  up  in  the 
north,  furnishing  a  lasting  background  for  a  very  pretty  picture.  A 
short  distance  below  Stair  Falls  the  river  widens  again,  and  flows 
sluggishly  through  grassy  logons"  for  nearly  two  miles  to  Haskell 
Rock  and  Pitch.  There  are  two  falls  or  *'i3itches"  in  the  river  here, 
and  a  good  carry  extends  three-quarters  of  a  mile  along  the  right  bank 
of  the  river  past  both. 

Launching  your  canoe  again  you  run  swiftly  through  quick  water 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


249 


and  rapids  to  Pond  Pitch,  where  you  will  find  the  best  carry,  about 
forty  rods  long,  on  the  left.  There  is  another  on  the  right,  but  not 
so  commonly  used.  Floating  swiftly  another  mile  brings  you  to 
Grand  Pitch  and  the  rapids  below.  The  carry  is  on  the  left  bank, 
and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long.  Another  run  of  three-quarters  of 
a  mile  through  swift  water,  and  you  reach  Hulling  Machine  Falls, 
where  you  have  to  make  another  carry  of  about  half  a  mile,  and  this 
also  on  the  left  ))ank.  Below  you  get  smoother  water  for  two  miles 
to  Bowlin  Falls,  at  the  foot  of  which  Bowlin  Stream  flows  into  the 
East  Branch.  Experienced  canoe-men  usually  run  these  falls,  which 
are  only  a  succession  of  rips"  and  small  pitches;  but  if  doubtful  of 
your  ability  to  do  it  safely,  don't  try  it,  but  tramp  over  the  carry  for 
about  a  hundred  yards,  which  you  will  find  on  the  right  bank.  The 
four  falls  last  named,  taken  collectively,  are  generally  known  as  the 
Grand  Falls  of  the  East  Branch,  to  distinguish  them  from  their  name- 
sake on  Webster  Stream.  Leaving  Bowlin  Falls  behind,  you  find 
some  quick  water,  and,  after  a  run  of  a  mile  and  a  half,  pass  Spring 
Brook,  which  empties  into  the  river  on  the  right,  behind  one  of  two 
large  islands.  The  main  channel  of  the  river  is  to  the  left  of  these. 
Spring  Brook  Gravel  Bed  Falls  are  quickly  passed,  and  then  you  find 
a  mile  or  more  of  heavy  rips.  Islands  are  scattered  along  the  river 
here,  and  opposite  one  of  them  is  Hathorn's  High  Landing,  from 
which  a  fine  view  of  the  mountains  can  be  had.  A  short  distance 
below  here  you  reach  dead  water,  which  extends  past  Seboois  and 
Little  Seboois  Rivers  to  Patterson's  on  the  left  side  of  the  river,  —  a 
distance  of  about  four  miles;  from  Patterson's  to  Wassataquoik  Stream 
on  the  right  is  a  mile  more.  Opposite  Patterson's  the  road  to  Mount 
Ktaadn  leaves  the  river  and  runs  for  several  miles  along  Wassataquoik 
Stream.  Half  a  mile  below  the  mouth  of  the  stream,  on  the  right 
bank,  is  the  Hunt  Farm,  the  buildings  on  which  were  erected  more 
than  forty  years  ago.  A  good  hotel,  the  Tourist's  Retreat,  is  located 
here,  and  S.  B.  Gates,  who  has  bought  the  place,  is  the  proprietor. 
You  can  procure  supplies  here  if  you  need  them. 

The  ascension  of  Mount  Ktaadn  can  be  readily  made  from  the 
Hunt  Farm,  the  present  enterprising  proprietor  having  built  a  good 
carriage  road  up  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Wassataquoik,  and 
past  the  beautiful  Ktaadn  Lake,  within  two  rriles  of  the  summit. 
In  fact  it  is  much  easier  to  ascend  the  mountain  from  here  than 
from  the  West  Branch.  Hunt  Mountain,  on  the  w^est  side  of  the 
river,  twelve  hundred  feet  high,  affords  a  magnificent  view  of  the 


250 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


surrounding  country,  and  will  well  repay  a  clamber  up  its  rocky  sides. 
Guides  can  be  procured  from  the  farm,  if  you  don't  wish  to  try  it 
alone. 

Leaving  the  Hunt  Farm,  a  mile  and  a  half  of  deep  and  rapid 
water  brings  you  to  Crowfoot  Falls,  and  a  short  distance  below  you 
reach  Whetstone  Falls.  You  can  run  the  former,  and  sometimes  the 
latter  if  the  water  is  favorable.  If  not,  drop  your  canoe  over  with  a 
rope.  There  is  a  good  path  on  the  right  bank.  From  here  to  the 
mouth  of  Mud  Brook,  which  empties  in  on  the  left,  a  distance  of 
eight  miles,  there  are  good  water  and  easy  canoeing,  passing  over  Burnt 
Land  Kips  on  the  way,  which  offer  no  obstacles.  Beyond  Mud  Brook, 
you  find  three  miles  more  of  very  good  water,  broken  in  one  place  by 
short  and  light  rapids,  and  then  you  reach  Grindstone  Falls.  The 
carries  here  are  a  mile  long,  one  on  each  bank.  From  the  putting- 
in''  place  to  Ledge  Falls  is  seven  miles,  and  on  the  first  half  of  the 
run  you  shoot  Kocky  Kips  and  Scratch  Kips,  the  latter  half  of  the 
distance  being  nearly  all  good  water. 

Houses  and  farms  now  begin  to  dot  the  landscape  and  increase  in 
number  in  the  three  miles  between  Ledge  Falls  and  Medway.  These 
falls  can  be  run  by  experienced  canoe-men,  but  amateurs  should  not 
make  the  attempt,  as  this  is  the  last  carry  you  will  have  to  make. 
Canoes  can  be  dropped  over  these  falls,  when  ''the  spirit  is  willing 
and  the  flesh  weak,"  and  only  the  baggage  need  be  "  sacked"  across 
the  carry.  Beyond  Ledge  Falls  the  stream  grows  wider,  and  it  sweeps 
toward  the  sea  with  swift  but  silent  flow;  you  leave  the  mountains 
rapidly  behind,  and  in  front  glimpses  of  civilization  meet  you  with 
every  new  turn  of  the  river.  You  soon  reach  the  junction  of  the  East 
and  West  branches  at  Medw^ay,  formerly  called  Nickatou,  a  small 
town  of  about  five  hundred  inhabitants,  located  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Penobscot  Kiver.  From  here  to  Mattawamkeag,  where  is  a 
station  of  the  Maine  Central  Kailroad,  it  is  twelve  miles,  but  the  route 
from  here  having  been  described  in  Chapter  XIY.,  it  is  unnecessary  to 
repeat  it.  This  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  romantic  trips  that 
can  be  made  through  Maine,  and  leads  one  through  the  very  heart  of 
the  wilderness.  It  should  not  be  attempted,  however,  before  the  first 
of  August,  on  account  of  the  annoyance  from  flies  and  mosquitoes 
that  you  will  experience  earlier  in  the  season,  and  even  after  the 
time  we  have  mentioned  you  will  find  insects  thick  enough  on  still 
days.  Therefore,  whenever  you  try  it,  and  we  advise  you  by  all 
means  to  ''  take  it  in  "  when  you  have  the  opportunity,  carry  plenty 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


251 


of  **fly  medicine'^  with  you,  and  then  hfe  will  not  become  quite  the 
burden  that  it  would  if  you  were  unprepared  to  do  battle  with  your 
small  but  by  no  means  insignificant  foes. 

UP  THE  WEST  BRANCH  OF  THE  PENOBSCOT, 

There  being  but  few  lakes  and  much  shoal-water  here,  this  is  not  a 
favorite  line  of  travel  with  many.  It  is  not,  however,  without  its 
points  of  interest,  and  leads  one  through  lonely  by-ways.  Canada 
Falls  heads  the  list  of  its  attractions,  and  the  fishing  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Nelhudus  and  other  streams  is  excellent. 

Carry  Brook  empties  into  the  northwest  arm  of  the  lake,  to  the 
left  of  Lane's  Clearing.  Parties  who  start  up  the  West  Branch,  after 
reaching  the  Northwest  Carry,  paddle  up  this  stream  for  about  a  mile, 
and  make  a  landing  on  the  left  side.  A  few  yards  from  the  landing 
runs  the  Old  Canada  Road,  leading  from  Morris  to  Canada  Falls,  and 
beyond  to  Canada. 

From  Carry  Brook  Landing  to  Seeboomook  Meadows  is  nearly  two 
miles,  the  road  being  good  in  dry  weather.  Joseph  Morris  will  haul 
canoes  and  supplies  across  the  carry  for  two  dollars  per  load.  He 
will  also  furnish  canoes  and  supplies,  and  act  as  guide,  if  parties 
desire. 

Launching  your  canoe  on  the  pond  you  cross  it,  and,  leaving  the 
pond  on  the  east  side,  you  run  into  a  small  stream,  and  through  this 
you  make  your  way  to  the  Penobscot,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  dis- 
tant, entering  the  river  opposite  Seeboomook  Island,  where  you  will 
find  a  good  camping-place.  Seeboomook  Falls  on  the  river  below  are 
worth  a  visit,  if  you  can  spare  the  time.  Just  below  the  foot  of  the 
island  the  falls  commence,  and  canoes  have  to  be  carried  by  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  river,  for  an  eighth  of  a  mile.  Then  comes  a  good  run 
of  a  mile  and  a  half,  with  but  one  exception,  —  the  Dam  Pitch  (no 
profanity  intended),  wiiere  you  must  lift  your  canoe  over.  Beyond  are 
the  long  falls.  You  must  carry  around  these  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
at  high  water,  and  double  the  distance  if  the  water  is  low,  the  path 
being  on  the  right  bank.  Just  above  the  lower  Seeboomook  Falls, 
opposite  a  small  island.  Elm  Stream  flows  in  on  the  left.  For  twelve 
miles  up  to  Elm  Pond,  it  is  mostly  dead  w^ater,  but  navigation  is 
difficult,  and  at  times  almost  impossible,  from  the  logs  and  trees  with 
which  the  brook  is  choked.  Three  miles  below  the  rapids  you  reach 
the  mouth  of  Russell  Stream.    A  canoe  can  be  taken  up  to  the  pond, 


252 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


a  distance  of  six  miles  and  a  half.  Five  miles  of  this  distance  is 
rapid  water.  The  stream  is  very  crooked  above  the  pond,  and  it  is 
dead  water  for  several  miles.  This  vicinity  used  to  be  good  moose 
and  caribou  ground,  but  the  chances  for  finding  any  game  larger  than 
deer  now  are  doubtful.  Two  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Kussell 
Stream  bring  you  to  the  Luce  Farm  at  the  N'ortheast  Carry, 
from  Avhence  we  have  paddled  *'Down  the  West  Branch,"  and  will 
therefore  return  up  river.  From  Seeboomook  Island  to  Swan's 
Farm,  seven  miles  above,  the  river  is  black  and  deep,  and  in  some 
places  the  scenery  is  very  fine.  Passing  the  head  of  the  island  you 
find  the  river  widens,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  beyond  you  pass  Nel- 
hudus  Stream,  navigable  for  several  miles.  This  brook  has  two 
mouths,  one  natural,  the  other  artificial.  Just  below  Nelhudus,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  a  good  tote-road  leads  into  the  Old 
Canada  Eoad.  From  the  river  to  Morris',  formerly  Lane's,  is  about 
six  miles. 

A  five-mile  paddle  from  Nelhudus,  during  which  you  pass  Logan 
Brook  on  the  right,  brings  you  to  Swan's  Farm,  on  the  left  of  the 
river,  and  here  you  can  camp  if  you  wish.  Gulliver  Stream  empties 
into  the  Penobscot  on  the  right-hand  side,  about  a  mile  above  Swan's. 
In  consequence  of  the  shallowness  of  the  river  and  the  falls  you  will 
have  to  drag  your  canoe  nearly  the  entire  distance  from  Swan's  Farm 
to  the  head  of  Gulliver  Falls,  unless  the  water  should  be  unusually 
high,  when  you  may  be  able  to  pole  up. 

Above  Gulliver  Falls  you  paddle  easily  along  over  two  miles  and  a 
half  of  dead  water,  and  then  reach  the  Big  Island,  which  you  can  pass 
on  either  side,  the  right-hand  being  the  shortest.  A  short  distance 
above  the  island,  on  the  left  of  the  river,  is  a  logon,  where  small  trout 
are  plenty.  Above  Big  Island  the  river  is  shallow  and  the  current 
strong,  and  a  two-mile  paddle  brings  you  to  Knight's  Farm  and  the 
Forks,  where  the  North  and  South  branches  unite.  A  mile  below  the 
Forks,  at  King's  High  Landing,  there  is  good  fishing  on  the  left  side 
of  the  river,  near  some  ledges. 

Canada  Falls,  a  very  attractive  piece  of  water  scenery,  are  a  mile 
and  a  half  from  the  Forks,  up  the  South  Branch,  and  will  amply  repay 
you  for  a  visit.  As  the  water  is  bad  between  the  Forks  and  the  Falls, 
leave  your  traps  at  Knight's,  and  make  your  trip  overland  via  the  Old 
Canada  Koad,  that  leads  to  the  foot  of  the  falls.  If,  however,  you 
are  anxious  to  explore  the 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  AVILDERNESS.  253 


SOUTH  BRANCH  OF  THE  PENOBSCOT, 

carry  your  canoe  to  the  head  of  the  falls,  and  put  in  above  the  dam. 
Then  you  have  nearly  a  mile  through  a  stream  thickly  sprinkled  with 
rocks,  by  one  "pitch,"  where  a  rope  is  needed,  and  soon  after  reach 
another  dam,  where  smooth  water  begins.  From  the  upper  dam  to 
Bog  Brook  is  half  a  mile,  and,  passing  the  mouth  of  this,  you  have  a 
two-mile  paddle  to  Alder  Brook,  emptying  in  from  the  left.  Another 
mile  brings  you  to  the  mouth  of  Hale  Brook,  on  the  left,  the  outlet  of 
several  ponds.  Opposite  this  is  a  flat  ledge,  and  below  it  a  pool, 
where  small  trout  are  plenty.  Near  this  ledge  is  a  good  camping- 
ground,  and  a  few  rods  up  the  river,  on  the  same  side,  is  a  "logon," 
where  ducks  are  plenty  in  the  fall.  Back  of  the  "logon"  is  an  old 
logging-camp,  where  you  can  stop  if  you  can  put  up  with  the  shelter 
it  offers.  A  branch  road  runs  from  the  camp  to  the  Old  Canada  Road, 
joining  it  a  mile  from  the  river. 

A  short  distance  above  Hale  Brook  you  reach  meadowy  land  dotted 
with  elms,  which  extends  for  a  mile  and  a  half.  Two  miles  above 
Hale  Brook  the  water  shoals,  and  wading  and  dragging  in  places  is 
necessary;  and  for  four  miles  and  a  half  more  to  the  mouth  of  Penob- 
scot Brook,  the  outlet  of  Penobscot  Lake,  navigation  is  very  bad. 
The  brook  is  so  filled  up  with  fallen  trees  as  to  be  unnavigable,  and  in 
fact  beyond  the  mouth  of  this  brook,  on  the  main  stream,  canoeing  is 
almost  impossible.  If  you  wish  to  visit  the  lake,  however,  you  had 
better  take  to  the  Old  Canada  Road  from  some  point  near  the  river, 
and  "  sack  "  canoe  and  baggage  over  it.  Alder  Brook,  before  spoken 
of,  is  navigable  for  canoes  for  a  few  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  flows 
through  a  good  hunting  country.  Being  out  of  the  regular  line  of 
travel,  it  is  possible  that  moose  and  caribou  may  yet  be  found  there. 

Leaving  Knight's  Farm  at  the  Forks,  you  commence  the  ascent 
of  the 

NORTH  BRANCH  OF  THE  PENOBSCOT. 

Canoeing  up  this  stream  is  attended  with  difficulties,  and  you  will 
make  slow  progress.  A  mile  and  a  half  from  the  Forks  you  pass  Lane 
Brook  on  the  left;  three-quarters  of  a  mile  more  brings  you  to  Lead- 
better  Brook  on  the  same  side,  flowing  from  four  small  ponds,  the  first 
of  which  is  about  four  miles  from  the  river.  A  mi^e  and  a  half  farther 
on  you  reach  Leadbetter  Falls,  passing  on  your  way  Little  Lane 
&ook,  which  empties  into  the  river  on  the  right,  then,  three-quarters 


254 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE. 


of  a  mile  farther,  to  one  of  Spencers  old  camps,  also  on  the  right. 
You  will  have  to  carry  your  luggage  around  Leadbetter  Falls,  but 
can  pull  up  your  canoe  with  the  tow  line.  The  path  is  only  a  few 
rods  long,  and  lies  on  the  right  side  of  the  river.  The  tote-road  fol- 
lows the  river  here,  and  up  to  High  Landing,  two  miles  above,  where 
one  branch  leaves  it,  and  runs  to  the  foot  of  Abacotnetic  Bog.  The 
other  branch  follows  the  river  up  to  the  mouth  of  Dole  Brook,  and 
thence  westerly  to  Dole  Pond. 

Above  the  falls  navigation  is  easier,  there  being  more  dead  water; 
and  six  miles  of  fair  canoeing,  during  which  you  obtain  fine  views  of 
the  Green  Mountains,  bring  you  to  the  mouth  of  Dole  Brook,  a  short 
distance  below  which,  in  a  deep  pool,  you  will  find  good  fishing.  In 
passing  the  island  a  mile  below  Dole  Brook,  take  the  left-hand  chan- 
nel. Three  miles  above  Dole  Brook  you  pass  the  Northwest  Branch, 
and  from  the  Forks  to  Abacotnetic  Lake  it  is  about  fifteen  miles. 
Between  Dole  Brook  and  Abacotnetic  Lake  navigation  is  very  bad, 
with  the  exception  of  the  last  four  or  five  miles,  where  the  stream  is 
sluggish.  The  carry  from  Abacotnetic  Lake  to  Baker  Brook  is  about 
a  mile,  and  from  the  Northeast  Branch  of  the  Penobscot  to  St.  John 
Pond  is  about  two  miles.  The  first  carry  is  preferable  to  the  latter, 
because  there  is  less  hard  work  to  be  done  on  it,  and  parties  going 
down  the  St.  John  River  can  make  better  time  this  way. 

Those  who  can  spare  several  days  for  hunting  will  find  caribou  and 
deer  quite  plenty  in  the  vicinity  of  Dole  Brook,  and  caribou  are  also 
to  be  found  around  Abacotnetic  Bog.  Baker  Lake  is  also  in  the  centre 
of  good  hunting  grounds,  and  there  is  good  fishing  at  and  below  its 
outlet.  From  the  lake  to  Seven  Islands,  where  the  tote-road  from 
Long  Pond  touches  the  river,  is  seventy  miles,  and  can  be  made  in 
two  days  if  necessary.  ^ 

1  Parties  will  find  an  interesting  account  of  a  trip  down  the  St.  John  over  thl» 
route,  in  Captain  Farrar's  *'  Up  the  North  Branch,"  for  sale  by  Jamaica  Publish- 
ing  Company,  Jamaica  Plain,  Mass. 


HEAD  OF^  A  MAINE  MOOSE. 


CHAPTEE  XVL 


TOURS  BEYOND  MOOSEHEAD.  —  THE  ALiLAGASH 
WATERS. -AROOSTOOK  RIVER  ROUTE. -DOWN  THE 
ST.  JOHN  RIVER. 


and  rivers  succeed  each  other,  without  any  large  settlement. 

Leaving  Moosehead  Lake,  your  way  lies  down  the  Penobscot  to 
Chesuncook,  across  that  lake,  and  then  over  the  Umbazookskus  and 
Mud  Pond  to  Chamberlain  Lake.  This  part  of  the  route  we  have 
already  been  over  in  our  tour  down  the  East  Branch.  From  Cham- 
l)erlain  Farm  you  pursue  a  northerly  course  along  the  east  shore  of 
Chamberlain  Lake  for  three  miles,  and,  reaching  the  dams  and  locks, 
are  compelled  to  make  two  short  carries  on  the  right.  These  locks 
were  built  twenty-odd  years  ago  at  large  expense  to  make  a  connection 
between  Eagle  and  Chamberlain  Lakes,  that  the  timber  owners  might 
drive  the  lumber  product  of  the  surrounding  territory  into  Chamberlain, 
thence  through  the  Telos  Cut  and  Canal  into  the  East  Branch  of  the 
Penobscot,  thus  taking  them  to  market  by  Maine  waters,  instead  of 
down  the  St.  John  River  through  Canada  and  New  Brunswick.  This 
made  the  construction  of  three  dams  necessary,  two  at  the  outlet  of 
Chamberlain  Lake,  and  one  at  the  outlet  of  Churchill  Lake,  at  the  head 
of  Chase's  Carry.   Persons  interested  in  driving  the  logs  down  the  St. 


NE  of  the  finest  trips  that  can  be  made 
in  Northern  Maine  is  a  tour  down  the 
St.  John  Pwiver  to  N'ew  Brunswick. 
The  route  lies  through  the  wildest  part 
of  Maine  ;  but  the  trip  can  be  made 
with  safety  and  comfort  during  the 
summer  or  early  fall.  September  is  the 
best  month  for  it,  if  you  have  the  lei- 
sure at  that  time.  It  will  take  from 
»  two  to  four  weeks.  From  Mount  Kineo 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Allagash,  lakes 


257 


258 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


John  would  not,  however,  allow  the  business  to  be  changed,  and  a 
fire  soon  after  destroyed  every  dam.  The  dams  at  the  locks  are  about 
eighty  rods  apart,  both  on  the  thoroughfare.  After  carrying  by  the 
second  one,  and  running  through  a  short  stretch  of  quick  water,  you 
cross  a  miniature  lake,  and  then  shoot  out  on  Eagle  Lake,  an  irregular 
but  attractive  sheet  of  water,  thirteen  miles  long,  and  nearly  four 
miles  wide  in  the  broadest  part.  It  contains  several  islands,  two  of 
them  quite  large.  The  shores  around  it  present  the  same  wild  appear- 
ance as  the  other  lakes,  being  fringed  with  dead  trees,  caused  from  the 
rising  of  water  by  the  dam  below.  A  number  of  brooks  empty  into 
it,  most  of  them  partially  navigable,  and  through  some  you  can  pene- 
trate to  ponds  beyond.  At  the  upper  end  of  Beaver  Lake,  on  the 
west  shore,  a  colony  of  beaver  were  located  a  few  years  ago,  and  they 
are  yet  to  be  found  in  the  adjoining  territory.  Pillsbury  Island,  a 
favorite  camping-ground,  is  three  miles  from  the  head  of  the  lake. 
A  mile  beyond  Smith  Brook,  the  outlet  of  Hay  mock  Lake,  empties 
into  Eagle  Lake  from  the  east.  There  is  good  water  for  two  miles 
and  a  half  from  its  mouth  to  the  upper  end  of  a  small  island,  at  and 
above  which  is  a  hop-bed  of  rocks,  and  very  thin  water.  For  the 
next  half-mile  there  is  water  enough,  until  within  a  short  distance  of 
the  carry,  where  it  again  becomes  shallow.  There  is  a  good  carry  on 
the  left  of  the  stream,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long,  and  near  its 
upper  end  are  Haymock  Falls.  From  the  falls  to  the  lake  it  is  three 
miles,  most  of  the  distance  being  good  canoeing.  The  lake  is  two 
and  a  half  miles  long,  and  a  mile  or  more  wide.  Its  shores  are 
covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  hard  and  soft  wwd.  The  country 
along  Smith  Brook  is  a  favorite  haunt  of  deer,  caribou,  and  moose, 
and  the  brook  is  one  of  the  best  trout  streams  that  empty  into  Eagle 
Lake. 

Three  miles  and  a  half  beyond  the  mouth  of  Smith  Brook  you 
reach  the  Narrows,  only  half  a  mile  wide,  then  two  miles  more  carry 
you  to  the  Thoroughfare,  and  two  and  a  half  miles  through  it  to  the 
mouth  of  Thoroughfare  Brook,  that  flows  in  from  the  west.  This 
is  not  only  a  good  stream  for  trout,  but  it  flows  through  a  country 
where  large  game  are  the  rule  rather  than  the  exception.  Russell 
and  Snare  Brooks,  both  emptying  into  Eagle  Lake  on  the  west  side, 
are  good  trout  streams,  and  also  Soper  Brook  flowing  in  from  the 
east.  This  brook  for  nearly  a  mile  is  shallow,  but  for  three  miles 
above  the  dam  the  water  is  deep  with  but  one  exception. 

Immediately  beyond  Thoroughfare  Brook  you  enter  Churchill  Lake, 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


259 


six  miles  long  and  three  wide,  containing  several  islands.  Into  the 
southeast  corner  empty  the  Twin  Brooks,  the  northerly  one  being  the 
outlet  of  Spider  Lake.    Parties  who  are  bound 

DOWN  THE  AROOSTOOK 

sack"  their  canoes  and  luggage  from  the  mouth  of  North  Twin  to 
Marsh  Pond,  except  when  the  water  is  high  after  heavy  rains.  Then 
you  can  generally  pole  a  canoe  up  to  the  pond.  Crossing  the  pond, 
the  chances  are  about  even  whether  you  find  water  enough  in  the 
stream  beyond  to  float  a  loaded  canoe  to  the  dam,  where  you  will  have 
to  "  lift  over  "  or  "  carry  round."  Above  the  dam  you  enter  the  lake, 
and  find  a  good  camping-ground  to  the  right  of  the  stream,  on  the 
southern  shore,  by  some  high  ledges.  The  situation  here  is  pictur-> 
esque,  and  commands  a  fine  outlook.  This  is  a  very  pretty  lake, 
nearly  three  miles  long,  and  a  mile  wide,  surrounded  by  thick  forests 
and  high  mountains.  When  the  waters  of  the  lake  are  perfectly  still, 
ten  different  peaks  are  reflected  on  its  surface.  There  are  several 
islands  scattered  through  the  lake,  the  most  of  them  at  the  upper  end. 
A  curious  rock  point  extends  into  the  lake  from  the  south  at  the 
western  end,  composed  of  high  hedges,  in  the  base  of  which  there  are 
several  clefts  and  small  caves. 

The  top  of  this  point  is  covered  with  a  growth  of  spruce.  This 
lake  furnishes  splendid  trout-fishing  and  duck-shooting,  and  par- 
tridges, and  larger  game  is  plenty  in  the  country  back  from  its  shores. 
It  is  a  fine  place  for  a  camping-out  party  to  visit. 

At  the  eastern  end  of  Spider  Lake,  behind  the  largest  island  in  the 
lake,  flows  in  a  small  brook,  the  outlet  of  two  ponds.  Sometimes  you 
can  paddle  up  the  stream  a  short  distance.  The  carry  runs  on  the 
south  side  of  it,  and  is  a  little  over  a  mile  long  to  Logon  Pond. 
Crossing  this,  and  paddling  up  the  brook  a  short  distance,  you  find 
another  carry,  also  on  the  north  side  of  the  stream.  Ten  minutes' 
walk  brings  you  to  Beaver  Pond,  nearly  circular  in  shape,  and  half  a 
mile  wide.  This  small  stream  and  ponds  that  empty  into  Spider 
Lake  is  a  good  place  for  beaver,  and  a  good  many  have  been  trapped 
and  killed  in  this  vicinity. 

From  Beaver  Pond,  Osgood  Carry,  a  rather  uneven  but  fairly 
good  path  of  a  mile  and  a  half,  brings  you  to  Echo  Lake,  the  head 
waters  of  the  Aroostook  in  this  section.  This  small  sheet  of  water  is 
encircled  by  hills,  which  send  back  every  sound  made  on  its  surface, 


260 


GUEDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


hence  its  name.  Beyond  this  are  two  other  small  ponds,  all  connected 
by  thoroughfares.  Eclio  Lake  is  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long,  the 
first  pond  east  of  it  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long,  and  the  second, 
three-eighths  of  a  mile.  The  carries  are  all  on  the  south  side  of  the 
stream,  and  the  three  together  are  about  two  miles  in  length. 

Reaching  the  westerly  end  of  the  Upper  Munsungan  Lake,  which 
is  nearly  a  mile  wide,  and  two  miles  long,  you  paddle  down  to  the 
outlet.  After  your  experience  from  Spider  Lake  it  is  quite  refreshing 
to  float  on  a  sheet  of  water  of  descent  size  once  more.  A  quick  and 
shallow  stream  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long  connects  the  upper  with  the 
second  or  middle  lake,  which  is  the  largest  of  the  three.  The  Thor- 
oughfare between  the  second  and  third  lakes  is  shallow  and  dead,  and 
is  about  twenty  rods  long.  There  are  togue  as  well  as  trout  in  these 
waters.  Munsungan  Stream,  the  outlet  of  the  lakes,  flows  by  a  very 
circuitous  route  for  tw^elve  miles  to  the  Aroostook  River.  The  most 
of  the  way  it  is  good  canoeing,  but  there  are  a  few  rapids  where  care 
must  be  exercised,  and  one  or  two  places  where  canoes  wall  have  to  be 
taken  out.  On  the  main  Aroostook  River,  there  are  but  few  rapids, 
and  no  bad  places  of  any  consequence.  Six  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
Munsungan  Stream,  you  reach  the  mouth  of  the  Mooseleuk  Stream, 
which  can  be  navigated  with  but  little  trouble  up  to  Mooseleuk 
Pond. 

Ten  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Mooseleuk  Stream,  you  reach  the 
farm  of  Philip  Painter,  the  first  one  you  come  to  where  anything 
eatable  can  be  purchased.  Two  miles  below  is  Rotting' s  Farm,  where 
connection  can  be  made  with  the  stage  running  to  Patten  and  Matta- 
wamkeag.  From  Rotting' s,  if  the  river  is  high,  you  can  paddle  to 
Caribou,  a  station  on  the  New  Rrunswick  Railway,  in  a  couple  of  days, 
but  if  the  water  is  low  it  will  take  you  the  better  part  of  a  week. 
The  Munsungan  Lake  region  is  a  good  one  for  large  game,  and  in 
former  years  beaver  were  quite  plenty  there,  and  some  are  yet  taken 
every  season.  There  is  good  trout-fishing  at  the  mouth  of  Munsun- 
gan Stream. 

One  can  also  reach  the  Aroostook  waters  from  the  East  Branch  of 
the  Penobscot.  After  crossing  Indian  Carry,  turn  to  the  left,  and 
follow  up  the  East  Rranch  Stream  for  a  distance  of  three  miles  to  Rog 
Rrook.  A  few  rods  up  the  brook,  you  will  find  a  good  carry  on  the 
left;  follow  this  for  about  a  mile  or  until  you  reach  a  beaver  dam, 
from  which  you  can  paddle  a  mile  and  a  half  up  the  brook  to  a  bog. 
From  here  a  spotted  line  leads  over  high  ground,  on  the  right  to 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


261 


Millinokett  Pond.  Here  launch  your  birch  again,  and  paddle  a  mile 
and  a  half  down  the  pond,  thence  through  the  short  Thoroughfare  to 
Milhnokett  Lake.  You  paddle  the  entire  length  of  the  lake,  about  five 
miles  to  the  outlet,  and  about  six  miles  down  the  river  to  Munsungan 
Stream,  and  from  there  we  have  already  given  the  course  to  Caribou. 
This  is  the  easiest  and  quickest  way  to  reach  the  Aroostook  River 
from  Chamberlain  Lake,  if  you  do  not  care  to  visit  the  Munsungan 
country.  The  greatest  difficulty  between  Chamberlain  Farm  and  the 
Aroostook  waters,  no  matter  which  way  you  make  the  trip,  is  the  fact 
that  after  you  leave  Chamberlain,  you  cannot  replenish  your  stores 
until  you  reach  Painter's  Farm,  before  mentioned.  You  have  there- 
fore to  take  provisions  enough  to  last  you,  or  depend  on  your  rod  and 
rifle  for  your  grub,  and  sometimes  these  do  not  prove  equal  to  the 
emergency. 

Resuming  our  trip  ^'  Down  the  West  Branch,"  we  paddle  the  entire 
length  of  Churchill  Lake,  about  six  miles,  through  a  country  that 
grows  wilder  with  every  rod  of  our  advance.  At  the  foot  of  the  lake 
we  find  the  remains  of  a  dam.  Here  you  take  out  your  canoe,  and 
cross  Chase's  Carry,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long.  It  is  so  grown  up, 
however,  that  you  will  think  it  nearer  three  miles  by  the  time  you  get 
across  it.  Half  a  mile  below  the  northern  end  of  the  carry,  the  river 
suddenly  narrows,  and  turns  to  the  west.  Here  there  is  a  short  but 
heavy  rapid  known  as  the  '^Devil's  Elbow,"  where,  at  a  medium  or 
low  stage  of  water,  parties  carry  round,  but  with  care  it  can  be  run 
at  a  high  pitch  of  water.  It  is  nine  miles  down  the  Allagash  from 
Chase's  Carry  to  Umsaskis  Lake.  The  river  is  about  forty  rods  wide 
on  the  average,  varying  in  places.  The  current  is  swift  all  the  way, 
but  there  are  no  bad  rapids.  You  pass  round  strips  of  meadow  land 
and  a  number  of  low  grassy  islands.  There  is  good  ducking-ground 
along  here,  and  several  varieties  are  plenty  in  season.  Game  also  in 
this  section  is  abundant. 

Umsaskis  Lake  is  four  miles  long,  and  two  wide,  and  is  really  a  part 
of  Long  Lake,  wiiile  the  entire  sheet  of  w^ater  is  only  a  bulge  in  the 
Allagash,  like  those  on  the  West  Branch  of  the  Penobscot.  There  is 
a  log  camp,  in  good  condition,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  head  of  the 
lake  on  the  east  shore,  often  used  by  parties  making  this  trip.  It  is 
located  near  the  centre  of  a  small  bay  or  cove,  just  east  of  a  round 
point  of  land.  Forty  rods  north-northw^est  of  the  camp,  near  an 
old  logging  road,  is  a  good  spring  of  water.  There  are  several  islands 
at  the  head  of  the  lake.    Priestley  Lake,  about  three  miles  long,  and 


262 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


from  half  a  mile  to  two  miles  wide,  empties  into  the  south  end  of 
a  bay,  on  the  western  shore  of  Umsaskis  Lake.  The  connecting 
stream  is  not  navigable  for  canoes,  and  it  is  a  two-mile  carry  along 
the  east  bank  of  the  stream  for  canoes.  Priestley  Lake  contains 
several  islands  of  good  size,  and  is  skirted  along  the  western  shore  by 
a  range  of  mountains,  that  add  very  nmch  to  the  beauty  of  the  lake. 

From  the  foot  of  Umsaskis  it  is  seven  miles  to  the  foot  of  Long 
Lake,  where  is  located  Depot  Farm,  looked  after  by  John  Harvey, 
who,  with  only  his  dog  for  company,  lives  a  Crusoe  life  here.  At  this 
place  you  can  procure  the  ordinary  supplies  for  the  camp  larder,  at 
prices  that  will  make  a  drain  on  your  purse,  if  you  have  much  trading 
to  do.  Across  this  farm  runs  the  road  from  the  Seven  Islands  on  the 
main  St.  John  River,  easterly  past  the  foot  of  Musquacook  Lakes  to 
Ashland  on  the  Aroostook.  It  is  twelve  miles  from  the  Seven  Islands 
to  Depot  Farm,  and  about  fifty  more  to  Ashland.  Eight  miles  of  good 
canoeing  from  Depot  Farm  bring  you  to  Round  Pond,  two  miles  long, 
where  you  cross  it.  Entering  the  Allagash  River  again,  and  paddling 
for  three  miles,  you  come  to  a  log  camp  on  the  left  bank,  about  fif- 
teen rods  from  the  water.  The  landing  is  at  the  foot  of  the  second 
pitch  of  water  beyond  Round  Pond,  opposite  a  big  eddy.  It  can  be 
seen  from  the  river  before  you  reach  it,  if  you  are  on  the  watch  for  it, 
and  is  a  good  place  to  stop  at  over  night.  A  mile  and  a  half  from 
Round  Pond  you  reach  the  mouth  of  Musquacook  Stream,  on  the 
right.  This  stream  is  the  outlet  of  a  number  of  lakes,  and  furnishes 
fine  trout  fishing. 

It  is  quite  a  pleasant  and  interesting  trip  down  through  the  Mus- 
quacook waters  to  the  Allagash,  and  can  be  done  quite  easily  in  a 
week.  After  reaching  Spider  Lake,  before  mentioned  in  connection 
with  the  Aroostook  trip,  you  paddle  to  the  eastern  end,  and,  at  the 
head  of  a  small  cove  opposite  a  small  island,  you  will  find  the  carry" 
to  Pleasant  Lake,  running  a  mile  and  a  half  over  good  ground  in  a 
northeasterly  direction,  and  ending  on  the  shore  of  Pleasant  Lake, 
east  of  a  small  point,  extending  into  the  lake  from  its  southern  shore. 
Crossing  the  lake  northwesterly  to,  the  head  of  Mud  Cove,  you  land 
at  the  south  end  of  the  carry  to  Harrow  Lake.  A  brook  of  good 
spring-water  will  be  found  a  few  rods  west  of  the  carry,  and  good 
camping-ground  in  the  vicinity.  The  waters  of  this  cove  are  said  to 
emit  a  very  disagreeable  odor,  which  may  prove  troublesome  with  a 
wind  blowing  toward  your  camp.  The  carry  road  follows  Bog  Brook 
a  mile  or  so,  then,  crossing  it,  continues  on  in  a  general  northerly 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


263 


direction  to  the  western  shore  of  the  Fourth  Musquacook  Lake,  which 
is  about  three  miles  long  and  a  mile  wide.  At  its  northern  end  a  Thor- 
oughfare about  a  mile  long  connects  it  with  Third  Lake,  a  nearly  cir- 
cular sheet  of  water  with  irregular  shores.  Its  greatest  length  is  almost 
a  mile  and  a  half.  Another  short  Thoroughfare  leads  from  its  northern 
end  to  Second  Lake,  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  and  about  a  mile  wide. 
A  brook  that  is  the  outlet  of  a  small  pond  empties  into  the  head  of  a 
cove  at  the  southeast  corner.  A  short  stream  flowing  out  of  its 
northern  end  connects  it  with  First  Lake,  longer  and  narrower  than 
the  others.  There  is  a  dam  at  the  foot,  and  the  road  to  Depot  Farm 
crosses  the  river  a  short  distance  below  it.  From  the  dam  to  the  out- 
let into  the  Allagash  it  is  twelve  miles,  bad  water  most  of  the  way, 
necessitating  frequent  carries,  while  the  country  itself  offers  little  of 
interest  to  the  canoe-man. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Musquacook  through  alternate  dead  water 
and  rapids,  a  run  of  a  little  over  three  miles  brings  you  to  Five  Finger 
Brook,  having  several  mouths  emptying  into  the  river  on  the  east 
side.  It  is  a  first-rate  fishing-ground  during  the  summer  and  fall. 
Twelve  miles  of  good  canoeing  past  some  islands  bring  you  to  the 
outposts  of  civilization,  a  log  camp  on  the  left  bank,  occupied  now  or 
formerly  by  one  Joseph  Gilbear.  A  few  rods  below,  on  the  same  side 
of  the  river,  you  reach  Finley  McLellan's  house  and  farm,  where  sup- 
plies can  be  purchased.  From  this  point  it  is  three  miles  through 
good,  but  mostly  quick,  water,  to  Allagash  Falls,  passing  on  the  way 
a  large  number  of  islands,  and  four  log  houses,  three  on  the  left,  and 
one  on  the  right,  bank.  A  good  road  runs  around  the  Falls  of  the 
Allagash,  and  canoes  and  luggage  can  be  carried  or  hauled  on  a 
wooden  sled  which  is  kept  on  the  carry  for  that  purpose.  The  falls 
are  picturesque  and  impressive.  There  is  one  perpendicular  pitch  of 
thirty  feet,  and  then  heavy  pitches  and  rapids  extending  for  about  fif- 
teen rods,  the  whole  fall  being  about  seventy  feet.  Between  the  falls 
and  the  mouth  of  the  river  there  are  several  heavy  rapids,  not  very 
dangerous,  and  considerable  shoal  water.  In  this  distance  of  twelve 
miles  there  are  no  farms  until  you  get  within  a  mile  or  two  of  the 
St.  John.  Passing  out  of  the  mouth  of  the  Allagash,  you  find  the 
country  mostly  settled,  and  good  farms  and  small  settlements  all 
the  way  along. 

Half  a  mile  or  more  below  the  mouth  of  the  Allagash  you  reach 
Nigger  Brook  Rapids,  a  dangerous  pitch.  This  stretch  is  twenty  rods 
long,  and  full  of  rocks.    The  only  available  channel  is  on  the  right, 


264 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


close  in  to  the  south  bank  of  the  river.  Inexperienced  canoe-men 
should  carry  by  this  piece  of  water.  A  mile  below  you  reach  the  house 
of  John  Casey,  on  the  left  bank,  where  you  can  stop  over  night  if  you 
wish.  Two  miles  below  you  run  Cross  Kock  Rapids,  another  mile, 
Golen  Rapids;  from  this  point  it  is  three  miles  and  a  half  to  Rankin's 
Rapids,  and  two  miles  more  to  Michu  Rapids.  About  two  miles  below 
here  you  reach  the  farm  and  house  of  Martin  Savage,  on  the  right 
bank,  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Francis  River.  Enter- 
tainment for  tourists  and  sportsmen  could  formerly  be  had  here,  but 
of  late  years  the  family  have  not  taken  in''  anybody.  Mr.  Savage's 
house  is  in  St.  Francis  Plantation,  from  whence  a  good  road  runs  to 
Fort  Kent.  There  is  a  post-office  at  St.  Francis,  and  a  stage-line  be- 
tween Savage's  and  Port  Kent.  If  one  has  time  he  can  make  a 
pleasant  trip  up  the  St.  Francis  River,  crossing  Glazier's  Lake  and 
Beau  Lake,  from  which  it  is  fifteen  miles  to  Boundary  Lake,  where 
there  is  a  settlement  within  twenty  miles  of  a  railroad  station. 

Paddling  down  river  from  Savage's,  you  reach  in  three  miles'  dis- 
tance the  house  of  Robert  Conner,  a  hospitable  lumberman,  who 
sometimes  entertains  sportsmen,  but  who  does  not,  however,  make  a 
business  of  it.  It  is  thirteen  miles  from  here  to  Fort  Kent,  in  Maine, 
and  mostly  good  canoeing,  the  worst  place  in  this  distance  being  at 
Winding  Ledges.  Opposite  Fort  Kent,  in  New  Brunswick,  is  the 
Canadian  settlement  of  Middle  St.  Francis.  Fort  Kent  is  prettily 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  Fish  River,  which  is  one  of  the  largest 
streams  that  empty  into  the  St.  John.  The  block  house,  from  which 
the  place  takes  its  name,  stands  on  an  eminence  overlooking  the  junc- 
tion of  the  St.  John  and  Fish  Rivers,  and  was  built  about  fifty  years 
ago.  If  you  stop  over  in  Fort  Kent,  and  are  tired  of  camping,  Ste- 
vens' Hotel  is  a  comfortable  place  to  make  your  headquarters.  In  this 
village  are  also  several  stores  where  you  can  renew  your  stock  of 
supplies. 

From  Fort  Kent  to  Edmundston  is  twenty  miles,  and  requires  about 
five  hours  to  make  the  distance.  A  mile  below  Fort  Kent  you  pass 
over  Fish  River  Rapids  without  difficulty,  and,  five  miles  farther  down, 
pass  the  mouth  of  Baker  River,  flowing  into  the  St.  John  from  the 
north.  There  are  several  islands  in  this  vicinity,  and,  in  fact,  islands 
are  scattered  along  the  whole  course  of  the  river.  Baker  River  is  the 
outlet  of  Baker  Lake,  from  the  western  end  of  which  there  is  a  three- 
mile  carry  running  to  the  head  of  Long  Lake,  whose  waters  empty, 
through  the  Cabineau  River,  into  Lake  Temiscouata.    Seven  miles 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


265 


from  the  mouth  of  Baker  River  you  reach  Frenchville,  a  small  settle- 
ment on  the  south  bank  of  the  St.  John.  From  here  a  road  runs  five 
miles  to  one  of  the  arms  at  the  head  of  Long  Lake,  a  large  body  of 
v/ater,  whose  shores  are  mostly  settled.  This  is  the  most  northerly 
of  the  Eagle  Lakes,"  so  called.  This  is  a  fine  trip  for  the  canoe- 
man,  as  you  can  make  a  tour  of  seventy-five  miles  to  Fort  Kent,  and 
have  the  current  with  you  all  the  way.  From  Long  Lake  you  pass 
through  Mud  Lake,  Cross  Lake,  Square  Lake,  and  Eagle  Lake,  then 
enter  Fish  Kiver,  and  float  down  its  current  to  Fort  Kent;  or,  leaving 
the  head  of  Eagle  Lake,  you  can  ascend  the  West  Forks  of  Fish  River 
to  St.  Froid  Lake,  a  long  and  narrow  sheet  of  water,  and,  paddling 
seven  miles  to  the  upper  end  of  this,  continue  on  up  Fish  River  to 
Portage  Lake,  and,  crossing  this  lake  to  its  head,  you  reach  a  good 
carry  a  mile  long,  and,  walking  over  this,  launch  your  canoe  into  a 
small  pond  on  the  Little  Machias  River,  a  tributary  of  the  Aroostook. 
From  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Machias  by  water  to  Presque  Isle,  where 
the  railroad  is  reached,  is  about  thirty  miles.  All  of  these  lakes 
mentioned,  with  the  exception  of  Long  Lake,  are  in  the  wilderness, 
without  sign  of  settlement.  The  scenery  along  these  routes  is  very 
beautiful,  and  there  is  plenty  of  quick,  but  not  dangerous,  water,  to 
give  the  necessary  excitement  to  canoeing;  and  the  fishing  and  hunt- 
ing are  good  all  through  the  region. 

Five  miles  below  Frenchville,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Madaw^aska 
River,  is  Ednmndston,  the  present  terminus  of  the  New  Brunswick 
Railway.  The  village  is  built  on  both  banks  of  the  stream,  the  rail- 
road depot  being  on  the  east  side.  From  here  it  is  thirty-six  miles  by 
rail  to  Grand  Falls,  and  from  there  to  Woodstock  seventy-five  miles. 
Most  tourists  take  the  cars  at  Edmundston,  and  we  would  recommend 
this,  as  the  river  from  there  to  Woodstock  is  very  similar  to  parts 
you  have  already  passed  over. 

There  are  not  many  bad  places  on  the  main  St.  John,  the  worst 
being  Grand  Falls,  about  seventy  miles  below  the  Allagash.  Here  is 
the  main  feature  of  the  river,  the  w^hole  descent  of  the  water  being 
seventy-five  or  eighty  feet.  There  is  one  perpendicular  fall  of  forty 
feet,  and  such  is  the  fury  of  the  water  that  all  sawed  lumber  and  square 
timber,  to  escape  destruction,  must  be  hauled  by.  A  light  suspen- 
sion-bridge, for  foot-passengers,  spans  the  river  below,  and  from  this 
one  can  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  fall.  We  use  up  the  better  part  of 
two  days  in  going  the  next  sixty  miles.  During  high  water  in  the 
spring  the  river  is  navigable  this  distance  for  a  light-draught  steamer; 


266 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


but  in  summer  the  boat  runs  only  to  Woodstock,  where  you  can  take 
passage  for  Fredericton,  sixty  miles,  and  the  following  day  by  another 
steamer  to  St.  John,  ninety  miles.  A  day  may  be  saved  in  going  by 
rail.  Sometimes  the  steamers  do  not  run  above  Fredericton.  If 
parties  do  not  wish  to  visit  the  city  of  St.  John,  they  can  take  the 
cars  at  Woodstock  or  Fredericton  for  Bangor  direct,  leaving  the  former 
place  at  8.00  a.m.,  and  arriving  at  7.00  p.m.;  distance,  one  hundred 
and  seventy  miles. 

There  are  settlements  all  the  way  on  the  main  St.  John,  and,  in- 
stead of  going  as  far  as  Grand  Falls,  parties  sometimes  turn  off  some 
forty  miles  or  more  below  the  mouth  of  the  Allagash  and  strike  north- 
west across  the  country  to  the  St.  Lawrence.  For  the  first  twenty 
miles  they  ascend  the  Madawaska  Kiver,  a  pretty  stream,  and  one  of 
the  finest  in  the  country  for  a  canoe,  being  smooth  and  clear,  with 
gravelly  bottom  and  a  moderate  current.  Then,  crossing  Temiscouata 
Lake,  twenty-eight  miles  in  length,  take  stage  for  Riviere  du  Loup,  a 
settlement  on  the  St.  Lawrence  thirty  miles  distant.  From  there, 
Quebec  is  reached  in  a  day  by  rail  or  by  steamer. 

TEMISCOUATA  LAKE 

is  in  the  midst  of  a  fine  sporting  region,  and  when  on  your  way  down 
the  St.  John,  if  you  can  spare  time  for  a  side  trip,  you  will  find  a  visit 
to  Temiscouata  and  its  neighboring  bodies  of  water  a  very  pleasant 
one.  To  reach  it,  put  in  your  canoe  above  the  Little  Falls  at  Edmund- 
ston,  the  only  bad  place  on  the  river,  and  then  paddle  up  this  large 
and  beautiful  stream  through  a  succession  of  deep  pools  and  short 
rapids  to  the  foot  of  the  lake,  twenty-three  miles  distant.  You  pass 
Griffin's  and  Degle's  on  your  way  up  river,  the  latter' s  house  being  but 
a  short  distance  below  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
stream.  You  can  stop  here  over  night  if  you  wish.  From  the  outlet, 
a  paddle  of  about  ten  miles  brings  you  to  Cloutier's,  a  small  hotel  on 
the  western  shore  of  the  lake,  where  you  can  make  your  headquarters 
if  you  are  not  going  to  camp  out.  A  good  road  runs  from  Edmundston 
along  the  western  bank  of  the  river,  and  shore  of  the  lake  for  two- 
thirds  its  length,  continuing  to  Riviere  du  Loup,  seventy-nine  miles, 
and  if  short  of  time,  you  can  have  your  canoe  and  baggage  hauled  over 
this  road  to  Cloutier's,  saving  a  day  or  two.  A  short  distance  above 
the  hotel,  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  the  Toledi  River  empties  in. 
This  stream  can  be  ascended  to  the  Grand  Fourche.    Paddling  up  the 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


267 


Toledi  for  a  mile  you  reach  the  falls,  where  you  must  make  a  carry 
going  up.  These  rapids  can  be  run,  however,  when  coming  down. 
Above  the  falls  you  will  find  a  stretch  of  smooth  sluggish  water 
extending  for  sixteen  miles  to  the  Forks.  There  is  good  trout  fishing 
all  along  this  stream  at  the  moutlis  of  small  brooks.  Both  the  West 
Branch  and  the  Grand  Fourche  afford  excellent  fishing,  the  latter 
perhaps  the  best,  especially  above  the  Big  Jam,  which  is  a  mile  from 
the  Forks.  There  is  quick  water  and  rapids  on  both  these  streams  all 
the  way,  and  canoes  have  to  be  "  poled  "  up  both  of  them. 

From  Edmundston  you  can  make  a  trip  around  the  lakes,  that 
necessitates  scarcely  any  hard  work,  and  which  is  really  delightful. 
A  friend  of  the  writer  who  made  this  trip  told  him  it  was  the  most 
enjoyable  one  he  made,  while  away  one  entire  summer.  Leaving 
Edmundston  you  paddle  up  the  Madawaska,  sixteen  miles,  to  Griffin's, 
or  take  a  team  over  the  road  wliich  runs  through  a  very  pleasant 
country  to  the  same  place.  From  here,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river  a 
logging  road  leads  two  and  a  half  miles  to  a  small  pond  known  as 
Beardsley,  or  Mud  Lake.  A  team  can  be  obtained  at  Griffin's  to  haul 
canoes  and  baggage  over  the  carry.  Leaving  Mud  Lake,  distance  across 
three-quarters  of  a  mile,  you  then  enter  Beardsley  Brook,  and  paddle 
down  this  to  Fourth  Squa-took  Lake,  where,  although  you  are  only 
twenty  miles  from  Edmundston  by  land,  you  are  one  hundred  by 
water.  From  Fourth  Lake  you  enter  Squa-took  River,  and  float  down 
that  to  Third  Lake.  From  the  eastern  shore  of  this  lovely  body  of 
water  rises  Squa-took  Peak,  a  cone-shaped  hill,  from  the  top  of  which 
you  can  look  out  for  miles  upon  an  unbroken  forest  in  every  direction, 
except  in  the  west,  where  the  settlements  along  Temiscouata  are  visi- 
ble. From  Third  Lake,  a  run  through  Second  and  First  Lakes  brings 
you  to  the  Forks  of  the  Toledi,  down  which  stream  you  float  swiftly, 
carrying  by  the  falls,  if  you  prefer  that  to  running  them.  Thence 
down  Temiscouata  and  the  charming  Madawaska  to  Edmundston. 
This  trip  can  be  done  in  four  or  five  days,  but  ten  is  preferable, 
as  then  you  will  not  have  to  hurry,  and  will  have  time  to  ascend  the 
streams  above  the  Forks.  Trout  and  white  fish  are  plenty  all  through 
this  country,  and  large  and  small  game  may  be  found  all  along  the 
route. 

Another  way  of  making  the  St.  John  tour  is,  upon  leaving  Cliesun- 
cook  Lake,  to  follow  up  the  Caucomgomoc,  across  Black  Pond,  then 
keep  on  up  the  river  until  you  reach  Caucomgomoc  Lake.  Entering 
this,  we  skirt  along  its  northern  shore  until  we  reach  the  mouth  of 


268 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE. 


Avery  Brook.  From  here  you  have  a  ten-mile  carry  to  the  Woboos- 
took  Stream,  striking  the  river  about  two  miles  from  Baker  Lake. 
Crossing  the  lake,  and  ascending  the  Woolastaqueguam,  or  South 
Branch,  you  enter  the  main  St.  John,  about  twenty  miles  beyond, 
and  pursue  your  way  as  before. 

Or  you  may  follow  the  first  described  route  as  far  as  Chamberlain 
Lake,  then  coast  along  this  until  you  reach  the  AUagash  River. 
Turning  into  this  you  follow  it  up  till  you  come  to  the  falls.  Carrying 
around  these,  you  jDursue  your  way  across  Allagash  Pond,  a  small 
bulge  in  the  river;  then  two  or  three  miles  farther  brings  you  to  the 
lake.  The  Allagash  is  a  large  lake,  and  contains  a  number  of  islands. 
You  paddle  the  entire  length  of  the  lake,  and  at  the  southwestern 
corner  find  the  portage.  This  carry  is  between  two  and  three  miles 
long;  beyond  it  lies  Round  Pond,  into  which  you  launch  your  birch, 
and,  crossing  the  pond,  find  at  its  southeastern  end  a  small  stream 
that  you  follow  down  to  Caucomgomoc  Lake.  From  here  you  proceed 
as  in  the  second  route. 

This  whole  region  of  country  is  a  complete  net-work  of  lakes,  ponds, 
and  rivers,  and,  with  a  compass  and  a  good  guide,  no  doubt  there  are 
many  other  ways,  at  least  for  part  of  the  distance,  by  which  one 
could  reach  the  St.  John  River.  In  leaving  the  old  beaten  paths  of 
travel  one  is  also  more  likely  to  meet  with  game,  or  to  find  waters 
where  the  trout  have  not  yet  learned  to  fight  shy  of  artificial  flies. 
And  although  the  whole  State  has  been  pretty  well  covered,  in  their 
different  trips,  by  hunters,  lumbermen,  and  surveyors,  still  we  have  no 
doubt  of  there  being  parts  of  the  wilderness  of  Maine  whereon  yet 
the  foot  of  man  has  never  trod.  If  any  of  my  readers  are  ambitious 
to  go  to  such  places,  it  is  possible  they  are  yet  to  be  found  around  the 
head  waters  of  the  St.  John  River.  If  you  can  scorn  the  attack  of 
flies,  mosquitoes,  and,  worst  of  all,  midges  no-see  ums"  the 
Indians  call  them),  live  on  fried  pork,  hard-tack,  and  the  products  of 
your  rod  and  rifle,  such  an  out-of-the-way  trip  will  be  a  real  benefit  to 
you. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


GAME  LAWS  OF  MAINE. 


CHAPTER  L.   (As  Amended.) 


The  Game  and  Game-Fish  Laws  in  this  Book  have  been  corrected  up  to  date, 
and  include  all  the  changes  made  by  the  Legislature  of  1889. 

An  Act  for  the  protection  of  Game  and  Birds. 

MOOSK,  DEER,  AND  CARIBOU. 
Be  it  enacted,  etc.,  as  follows'^ 

Sect.  3.  No  person  shall  hunt,  kill,  or  destroy  with  dogs  any  moose  within  this 
state,  under  a  penalty  of  one  hundred  dollars  for  every  moose  so  hunted,  killed, 
or  destroyed;  and  no  person  shall  between  the  first  day  of  January  and  the  first 
day  of  October  in  each  >  ear,  in  any  manner,  hunt,  kill,  or  destroy  any  moose 
under  the  same  penalty.   [Laws  of  1887.] 

Sect.  4.  No  person  shall  hunt,  kill,  or  destroy  with  dogs  any  deer  or  caribou 
within  this  state,  under  a  penalty  of  forty  dollars  for  every  such  deer  or  caribou 
so  hunted,  killed,  or  destroyed;  and  no  person  shall  between  the  first  day  of  Jan- 
uary and  the  first  day  of  October  in  any  manner  hunt,  kill,  or  destroy  any  deer 
or  caribou,  under  the  same  penalty  as  above  provided.  Any  person  may  lawfully 
kill  any  dog  found  hunting  moose,  deer,  or  caribou.   [Laws  of  1887.] 

Sect.  5.  If  any  person  has  in  his  possession  the  carcass  or  hide,  or  any  part 
thereof,  of  any  such  animal,  between  the  first  day  of  January  and  the  first  day 
of  October,  he  shall  be  deemed  to  have  hunted  and  killed  the  same  contrary  to 
law,  and  be  hable  to  the  penalties  aforesaid;  but  he  shall  not  be  precluded  from 
producing  proof  in  defence. 

Sect.  6.  No  person  shall  carry  or  transport  from  place  to  place  in  this  state, 
the  carcass  or  hide,  or  any  part  thereof,  of  any  such  animal,  during  the  period 
of  time  in  which  the  killing  of  such  animals  is  prohibited,  under  a  penalty  of  forty 
dollars. 

Sect.  7.  The  governor,  with  the  advice  of  council,  shall  appoint  one  county 
moose  and  game  warden  for  each  county  in  the  state,  to  hold  liis  ofiice  for  the 
term  of  four  years,  unless  sooner  removed,  each  of  whom  may  appoint  in  writing 
one  or  more  deputies  under  him,  and  require  of  them  suitable  bonds  for  the  faith- 
ful performance  of  their  duties,  and  the  payment  to  him  of  his  fees;  and  said 
wardens  and  their  deputies,  in  their  several  counties,  shall  faithfully  enforce  the 
provisions  of  this  act.  Each  of  the  deputies  shall  annually,  on  or  before  the  first 
day  of  December,  render  to  his  principal  an  account  under  oath  of  all  the  penalties 
by  him  enforced  for  the  preceding  year,  and  shall  pay  to  him  one-tenth  part  of 
the  net  proceeds  thereof  .  Each  county  warden  shall  annually,  in  January,  render 
to  the  secretary  of  state  an  account  on  oath  of  all  the  penalties  enforced  by  him- 
self, or  returned  to  him  by  his  deputies,  for  the  year  ending  on  the  first  "day  of 
December.  The  penalty  for  neglecting  to  do  so  shall  be  for  a  warden  fifty  dollars, 
and  a  deputy  twenty-five  dollars ;  and  the  warden  shall  immediately  give  notice  to 
the  county  attorney  of  every  county  of  such  neglect  of  his  deputy,  and  the  secre- 

269 


270 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


tary  of  state  shall  notify  such  county  attorney  of  every  such  neglect  of  the  war- 
den; and  the  county  attorney  shall  prosecute  for  every  such  neglect  of  which  he 
has  notice;  and  the  penalties  so  recovered  shall  be  for  the  use  of  the  county.  In 
such  prosecution  the  certificate  of  the  secretary  of  state  shall  be  sufficient  evi- 
dence of  the  fact  of  such  neglect  to  make  return  to  him. 

Sect.  8.  The  municipal  officers  of  any  town  may  insert  in  the  warrant  for  their 
.annual  meeting  an  article  for  the  choice  of  a  town  moose  and  game  warden,  who, 
in  his  town  and  anywhere  within  the  distance  of  twelve  miles  from  the  exterior 
bounds  thereof,  shall  have  concurrent  jurisdiction  with,  and  the  same  powers  and 
rights  as,  the  county  moose  warden  and  his  deputies;  and  he  shall  make  a  like 
return  to  the  secretary  of  state  under  a  penalty  of  twenty-five  dollars,  to  be 
proved,  recovered,  and  appropriated  in  the  same  way.  Each  of  said  officers  shall 
have  the  same  authority  to  require  aid  in  the  execution  of  his  office  as  sheriffs  and 
their  deputies  have. 

Sect.  9.  The  county  wardens,  their  deputies  or  town  w^ardens,  may  recover 
the  penalties  for  unlawfully  hunting  and  killing  moose,  deer,  and  caribou,  in  an 
action  on  the  case  in  their  own  names,  or  by  complaint  or  indictment  in  the  name 
of  the  state;  and  such  officers  may  be  competent  witnesses,  and  the  sums  recov- 
ered shall  be  paid,  one-half  to  the  warden  or  deputy  warden,  and  the  other  to  the 
county  or  town,  as  the  case  may  be.  Any  person  may  prosecute  by  action,  com 
plaint  or  indictment  for  any  of  the  acts  herein  forbidden,  provided  no  such  war 
den  or  deputy,  within  fourteen  days  after  the  offence  is  committed,  prosecutes 
therefor,  and  the  sums  recovered  shall  be  paid,  one- half  to  the  prosecutor,  and 
the  other  to  the  county,  and  such  action,  complaint  or  indictment  may  be  com 
menced  in  any  county  in  which  such  animal  is  killed  or  hunted,  or  into  which 
its  carcass  or  hide,  or  any  portion  thereof,  may  be  carried. 

Sect.  10.  The  secretary  of  state  is  to  communicate  to  the  legislature,  in  each 
month  of  January,  what  has  been  done  in  execution  of  the  preceding  sections  of 
this  chapter  as  appears  by  the  returns  received. 


FUR-BEARING  ANIMALS. 

Sect.  11.  No  person  shall  in  any  way  destroy,  between  the  first  day  of  May 
and  the  fifteenth  day  of  October  of  each  year,  any  mink,  beaver,  sable,  otter,  or 
fisher,  under  penalty  of  ten  dollars  for  each  animal  so  destroyed,  to  be  recovered 
on  complaint,  one-half  thereof  to  the  use  of  the  county  where  the  ofl'ence  is  com- 
mitted, and  one-half  to  the  prosecutor. 


BIRDS. 

Sect.  12.  Whoever  kills  or  has  in  his  possession,  except  alive,  or  exposes  for 
sale,  any  wood  duck,  dusky  duck,  commonly  called  black  duck,  teal  or  gray  duck, 
between  the  first  days  of  April  and  September,  or  kills,  sells,  or  has  in  possession, 
except  alive,  any  ruffed  grouse,  commonly  called  partridge  or  woodcock,  between 
the  first  days  of  December  and  September  following,  or  kills,  sells,  or  has  in 
possession,  except  alive,  any  quail  between  the  first  day  of  December  and  the 
first  day  of  October  following,  or  pinnated  grouse,  commonly  called  prairie 
chicken,  between  the  first  days  of  January  and  September,  or  plover,  between  the 
first  days  of  May  and  August,  forfeits  not  less  than  five  nor  more  than  ten  dollars, 
for  each  bird  so  killed,  had  in  possession,  or  exposed  for  sale.  And  no  person 
shall  kill,  expose  for  sale,  or  have  in  poss€?ssion,  except  alive,  any  woodcock  or 
ruffed  grouse,  or  partridge  during  September,  October  or  November,  or  any  quail 
except  during  tlie  months  of  October  and  November,  or  plover  during  the  months 
of  August,  September,  October  or  November,  except  for  consumption  as  food 
within  this  state  under  the  same  penalty.    [Approved  March  5,  1881).] 

Sect.  13.  Whoever,  at  any  time  or  in  any  place,  with  any  trap,  net,  snare, 
device  or  contrivance  other  than  the  usual  method  of  sporting  with  fire-arms, 
takes  wild  duck  of  any  variety,  quail,  grouse,  partridge,  or  woodcock,  forfeits  five 
dollars  for  each  bird  so  taken.    [Approved  March  5,  1889.] 

Sect.  14.  Whoever  kills  or  has  in  his  possession,  except  alive,  any  birds  com- 
monly known  as  larks,  robins,  swallows,  sparrows,  or  orioles,  or  other  insectiv- 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


271 


orous  birds,  crows,  English  sparrows,  and  hawks  excepted,  forfeits  not  less  than 
one  dollar,  nor  more  than  five  dollars,  for  each  such  bird  killed,  and  the  posses- 
sion by  any  person  of  such  dead  bird  is  prima  facie  evidence  that  he  killed  such 
bird.    [Approved  March  5,  188<.).j 

SkC'T.  15.  No  person  shall  at  any  time  wantonly  take  or  destroy  the  nest,  eggs, 
or  unfledged  young  of  any  wild  bird  of  any  kind,  except  crows,  hawks,  and  owls, 
or  take  any  eggs  or  young  from  such  nests,  except  for  preserving  the  same  as 
specimens,  or  of  rearing  said  young  alive,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  one 
nor  more  than  ten  dollars  for  each  nest,  egg,  or  young  so  taken  or  destroyed. 

Sect.  16.  No  person  shall  carry  or  transport  from  place  to  place,  in  this  state, 
any  of  the  birds  named  herein,  during  the  period  in  which  the  killing  of  such 
birds  is  prohibited,  under  a  penalty  of  five  dollars  for  each  bird  so  carried  or 
transported. 

Skct.  18.  All  penalties  imposed  by  the  seven  preceding  sections  may  be  recov- 
ered by  an  action  of  debt,  or  by  complaint  or  indictment  in  the  name  of  the 
state,  by  any  warden  or  his  deputies,  or  any  other  person,  before  any  court  having 
jurisdiction  thereof,  in  any  county  in  which  such  offence  may  be  committed  or  the 
accused  resides;  and  in  all  actions  therefor  in  the  supreme  judicial  court,  or  any 
superior  court  for  the  county  of  Cumberland,  if  the  plaintiff'  recovers,  he  shall 
recover  full  costs  without  regard  to  the  amount  of  such  recovery.  Such  penal 
ties,  when  collected,  shall  be  paid,  one-half  to  the  prosecutor,  and  the  other  to 
the  overseers  of  the  poor  for  the  use  of  the  poor  of  the  city  or  town  where  such 
prosecutor  resides. 

Skct.  19.   This  act  shall  not  apply  to  the  shooting  of  ducks  on  the  sea-coast. 

Skct.  20.  Chapter  one  hundred  and  six,  and  section  two  of  chapter  ninety-eight 
of  the  public  laws  of  eighteen  hundred  and  seventy  two,  together  with  all  acts 
and  parts  of  acts  inconsistent  with  this  act,  are  hereby  repealed,  saving  all 
actions,  complaints,  and  indictments  now  pending,  or  which  may  hereafter  be 
commenced  for  the  violation  of  any  such  act  before  this  act  takes  effect.  [Ap- 
proved Feb.  19,  1878.  J 

Chapter  280.    An  Act  additional  to  chapter  thirty  of  the  Revised  Statutes^ 
establishing  a  bounty  on  Crows. 

Section  l.  A  bounty  of  ten  cents  for  every  crow  killed,  in  any  town  in  this 
state,  between  the  thirty-first  day  of  IMarch  and  the  first  day  of  November  of  each 
year,  shall  be  paid  by  the  treasurer  thereof,  to  the  person  depositing,  in  lots  of 
ten  or  more,  the  heads  of  the  same  with  such  treasurer.  The  treasurer  shall  im 
mediately  destroy  such  heads. 

Sect.  2.  Towns  shall  be  reimbursed  from  the  state  treasury,  and  town  treas- 
urers shall  require  and  give  similar  certificates  and  receipts,  and  be  qualified  to 
administer  the  same  oath,  as  made  and  provided  in  sections  six,  seven,  and  eight 
of  chapter  thirty  of  the  revised  statutes.    [Approved  March  9,  1889.] 


NEW  LiAWS  OF  1882-83. 


An  Act  for  the  protection  of  3Ioose,  Caribou,  and  Deer, 

Be  it  enacted,  i&c,  as  follows  ■  — 

Section  1.  No  person  shall  kill,  destroy,  or  have  in  possession  from  the  first 
day  of  October  to  the  first  day  of  January  in  each  year,  more  than  one  moose, 
two  caribou,  or  three  deer,  under  a  penalty  of  one  hundred  dollars  for  every 
moose,  and  forty  dollars  for  every  caribou  or  deer  killed,  destroyed,  or  in  posses- 
sion in  excess  of  the  said  number,  and  in  case  of  conviction  all  such  moose, 
caribou,  or  deer,  or  the  carcasses  or  parts  thereof,  shall  be  decreed  by  the  court 
forfeited  to  the  use  of  the  party  prosecuting.  Any  person  having  in  possession 
more  than  the  aforesaid  number  of  moose,  caribou,  or  deer,  or  the  carcasses  or 


272 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE. 


parts  thereof,  shall  be  deemed  to  have  killed  or  destroyed  them  in  violation  of 
this  act. 

Sect.  2.  Any  person  owning  or  having  in  possession  dogs  for  the  purpose  of 
hunting  moose,  caribou,  or  deer,  or  that  are  used  for  such  hunting-,  shall  be 
liable  to  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  twenty  nor  more  than  one  hundred  dollars. 

Sect.  3.  The  penalties  prescribed  in  this  act  may  be  recovered  in  the  manner 
provided  by  section  twenty-five  of  chapter  forty  of  the  public  laws  of  eighteen 
hundred  and  seventy-eight. 

An  Act  making  Sunday  a  close  time  for  game  and  birds  of  all  kinds. 
Be  it  enacted^  t&c,  as  follows :  — 

Section  1.  Sunday  is  hereby  made  a  close  time,  on  which  day  it  shall  not  be 
lawful  for  any  person  to  hunt,  kill,  or  destroy  game  or  birds  of  any  kind,  under 
the  penalties  imposed  for  the  hunting,  killing,  or  destroying  the  same,  during  any 
close  time  now  established  by  law. 

Sect.  2.  This  act  shall  not  be  construed  to  repeal  or  diminish  the  penalties 
already  imposed  for  any  violation  of  the  Sunday  laws. 

Chapter  208.   An  Act  to  enlarge  the  powers  and  duties  of  the  Commissioners 
of  Fisheries  and  Wardens. 

£e  it  enacted,  <)&c.,  as  follows  :  — 

Section  1.  The  powers  and  duties  of  the  commissioners  of  fisheries,  and  war- 
dens, shall  extend  to  all  matters  pertaining  to  game,  and  they  shall  have  the 
same  powers  to  enforce  all  laws  pertaining  to  game  as  they  now  have  in  enforcing 
the  laws  relating  to  the  fisheries. 

Sect.  2.  The  governor  is  hereby  authorized,  with  the  advice  and  consent  of 
the  council,  to  appoint  wardens,  whose  duty  it  shall  be  to  enforce  the  provisions 
of  all  laws  relating  to  game  and  the  fisheries,  arrest  any  person  violating  such 
laws,  and  prosecute  for  all  offences  against  the  same  that  may  come  to  their 
knowledge;  and  shall  have  the  same  power  as  sheriffs,  and  deputy  sheriffs,  to 
serve  all  criminal  processes  for  violation  of  the  provisions  of  any  law  pertaining 
to  game  and  the  fisheries,  and  shall  be  allowed  for  said  services  the  same  fees  as 
are  prescribed  by  law  for  sheriffs  and  their  deputies  for  like  services;  and  in  the 
execution  of  their  duties  they  shall  have  the  same  right  to  require  aid  that 
sheriffs  and  their  deputies  have  in  executing  the  duties  of  their  office;  and  any 
person  refusing  or  neglecting  to  render  such  aid  wlien  required,  shall  forfeit  ten 
dollars,  to  be  recovered  upon  complaint  before  any  trial  justice  or  municipal 
court. 

Sect.  .3.   This  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved.    [Approved  March  9,  1880.] 

An  Act  relating  to  seizure  offish  and  game  under  the  fish  and  game  laws. 

He  it  enacted,  tfec,  as  folloivs :  — 

Any  person  whose  fish  or  game  has  been  seized  for  violation  of  any  fish  or  game 
law,  shall  have  such  fish  or  game,  so  seized,  returned  to  him  on  giving  to  the 
officer  a  bond  with  sufficient  sureties,  residents  of  this  state,  in  double  the 
amount  of  the  fine  for  such  violation;  conditioned,  that  if  the  final  judgment  for 
such  alleged  violation  shall  be  guilty,  he  will  within  thirty  days  thereafter  pay 
such  fine  and  costs.  If  such  person  neglects  or  refuses  to  give  such  bond  and 
take  the  fish  or  game,  so  seized,  he  shall  have  no  action  against  the  oflficer  for 
such  seizure  or  loss  thereof. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


GAME-FISH  LiAWS  OF  MAINE. 


CHArXER  LXXV.    (As  Amended.) 


An  Act  to  regulate  and  protect  Fisheries  and  the  Propagation  of  Fish. 
Be  it  enacted,  iitc,  asfolloivs  :  — 

Section  1.  The  governor,  with  the  advice  of  the  council,  shall  appoint  one  or 
two  persons,  as  they  may  think  best,  to  be  commissioners  of  fisheries,  who  shall 
hold  office  for  three  vears  unless  sooner  removed,  and  have  a  general  supervision 
of  tlie  fisheries,  regulated  by  the  following  sections.  He  or  they  shall  examine 
dams  and  all  other  obstructions  existing  in  uU  rivers  and  streams  in  the  state,  and 
determine  the  necessity  of  fish-ways  and  the  location,  form,  and  capacity  thereof; 
shall  visit  those  sections  where  fisheries  regulated  by  this  act  are  carried  on,  and 
examine  into  the  working  of  the  laws;  shall  introduce  and  disseminate  valuable 
species  of  fish  into  the  waters  of  this  state  where  they  do  not  exist,  and  perform 
all  other  duties  prescribed  by  law.  He  or  they  shall  report  annually  on  or  before 
the  thirty-first  day  of  December  to  the  g-overnor,  who  shall  cause  three  thousand 
copies  to  be  printed.  He  or  they  shall  receive  one  thousand  dollars  and  travelling 
and  other  expenses  necessarily  incurred  in  connection  with  his  or  their  duties, 
which  shall  be  audited  by  the  governor  and  council,  and  it  shall  be  his  or  their 
duty  to  sec  that  all  violations  of  the  fish  laws  of  the  state  are  duly  prosecuted. 

Sect.  2.  The  owner  or  occupant  of  every  dam  or  other  artificial  obstruction  in 
any  river  or  stream  frequented  by  salmon,  shad,  alewives,  or  land-locked  salmon, 
shall  provide  the  same  with  a  durable  and  efiicient  fish-way,  of  such  form  and 
capacity,  and  in  such  location  as  may,  after  notice  in  writing  to  one  or  more  of 
said  owners  or  occupants  and  a  hearing  thereon,  be  determined  by  the  commis- 
sioners of  fisheries,  by  written  notice  to  some  owner  or  occupant  specifying  the 
location,  form,  and  capacity  of  the  required  fish-way,  and  the  time  within 
which  it  shall  be  built;  and  said  owner  or  occupant  sliall  keep  said  fish  way  in 
repair,  and  open  and  free  from  obstruction  for  the  passage  of  fish,  during  such 
times  as  are  prescribed  by  law;  provided,  however,  that  in  case  of  disagreement 
between  the  commissioners  of  fisheries  and  the  owner  or  occupant  of  any  dam,  as 
to  the  propriety  and  safety  of  the  plan  submitted  to  the  owner  or  occupant  of 
such  dam  for  the  location  and  construction  of  the  fish-way,  such  owner  or  occu- 
pant may  appeal  to  the  county  commissioners  of  the  county  where  the  dam  is 
located  within  twenty  days  after  notice  of  the  determination,  to  the  fishery 
commissioners,  by  giving  to  the  fishery  commissioners  notice  in  writing  of  such 
appeal  within  that  time,  stating  therein  the  reasons  therefor,  and  at  the  request  of 
the  appellant  or  tlie  fishery  commissioners,  the  senior  commissioners  in  office  of 
any  two  adjoining  counties  shall  be  associated  with  them,  who  shall  appoint  a 
time  to  view  the  premises  and  hear  the  parties,  and  give  due  notice  theieof,  and 
after  such  hearing  tliey  shall  decide  the  question  submitted,  and  cause  record  to 
be  made  thereof,  and  their  decision  shall  be  final  as  to  the  plan  and  location 
appealed  from.  If  the  requirements  of  the  fishery  commissioners  are  affirmed, 
the  appellants  shall  be  liable  for  the  costs  arising  after  the  appeal,  otherwise  they 
shall  be  paid  by  the  county.    [Approved  March  9,  1889.] 

Sect.  3.  If  a  fish-way  thus  required  to  be  built  is  not  completed  to  the  satis- 
faction of  the  commissioners  within  the  time  specified,  any  owner  or  occupant  shall 

273 


274 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


forfeit  not  more  than  one  hundred  nor  less  than  twenty  dollars  for  every  day 
between  the  first  day  of  May  and  the  first  day  of  November,  during  which  such 
neglect  continues. 

Sect.  4.  On  the  completion  of  any  fish-way  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  commis> 
sioners,  or  at  any  subsequent  time,  they  shall  prescribe  in  writing  the  time  during 
which  the  same  shall  be  kept  open  and  free  from  obstruction  to  the  passage  of 
fish  each  year,  and  a  copy  thereof  shall  be  served  on  the  owner  or  occupant  of  the 
dam.  The  commissioners  may  change  the  time  as  they  see  fit.  Unless  otherwise 
provided,  a  fish-way  shall  be  kept  open  and  unobstructed  from  the  first  day  of 
3Iay  to  the  fifteenth  day  of  July  of  each  year.  The  penalty  for  neglecting  to  com- 
ply with  the  provisions  of  this  section,  or  any  regulations  made  in  accordance 
herewith,  shall  be  not  less  than  twenty  nor  more  than  one  hundred  dollars  for 
every  day  such  neglect  continues. 

Sect.  5.  In  case  the  commissioners  find  any  fish-way  out  of  repair  or  needing^ 
alterations,  they  may,  as  in  case  of  new  fish-ways,  require  the  owner  or  occupant 
to  make  such  repairs  or  alterations;  and  all  the  proceedings  in  such  cases,  and. 
the  penalty  for  neglect,  shall  be  as  provided  in  the  second,  third,  and  fourth 
sections,  without  right  of  appeal. 

Sect.  6.  In  case  the  dam  is  owned  or  occupied  by  more  than  one  person,  each 
shall  be  liable  for  the  cost  of  erecting  and  maintaining  such  fish-way,  in  propor- 
tion to  his  interest  in  the  dam,  and  if  any  owner  or  occupant  shall  neglect  or 
refuse  to  join  with  the  others  in  erecting  or  maintaining  such  fish  way,  the  other 
owner  or  owners  or  occupants  shall  erect  or  repair  the  same,  and  shall  have  an 
action  of  case  against  such  delinquent  owner  or  occupant  for  his  share  of  the 
expenses  thereof. 

Sect.  7.  If  the  owner  or  occupant  of  such  dam  resides  out  of  the  state,  said 
penalties  may  be  recovered  by  a  libel  against  the  dam  and  land  on  which  it 
stands,  to  be  filed  in  the  supreme  judicial  court  in  the  county  where  the  same  is 
located,  in  the  name  of  the  commissioners  of  fisheries  or  any  fish-warden,  who 
shall  give  to  the  owner  or  occupant  of  the  dam,  and  all  persons  interested  therein,, 
such  notice  as  the  court,  or  any  justice  thereof  in  vacation,  shall  order,  and  the 
court  may  render  judgment  therein  against  said  dam  and  lands  for  said  penalties, 
and  costs,  and  order  a  sale  thereof  to  satisfy  such  judgment  and  costs  of  sale, 
subject,  however,  to  all  said  requirements  for  the  erection,  maintenance,  or 
repair  of  said  fish-way. 

Sect.  8.  The  governor,  with  the  advice  of  the  council,  shall  appoint  fish- 
warden's  where  the  same  may  be  necessary,  who  shall  enforce  the  provisions  of 
all  public  laws  relating  to  fisheries,  prosecute  all  offences  that  come  to  their 
knowledge,  and  shall  have  the  same  power  as  sheriffs  and  deputy  sheriffs  to  serve 
all  criminal  process  for  the  violation  of  any  of  the  provisions  of  this  act;  and  they 
shall  have  a  right,  at  all  times,  to  visit  any  dam  or  any  weir,  or  other  apparatus 
for  taking  fish,  and  in  the  exercise  of  their  duties  shall  have  the  same  right  to- 
require  aid  that  sheriffs  and  their  deputies  have  in  executing  the  duties  of  their 
office,  and  any  person  neglecting  to  render  it  when  required  shall  forfeit  ten 
dollars  Each  person  so  appointed  shall  hold  office  three  years,  unless  sooner 
removed  and  his  pay  shall  be  fixed  by  the  governor  and  council,  who  shall  audit 
his  accounts  and  cause  the  same  to  be  paid  from  the  state  treasury,  provided  that 
the  whole  amount  paid  to  all  wardens  shall  not  exceed  fifteen  hundred  dollars 
annually. 

Se(^t.  0.  No  salmon,  shad,  or  other  migratory  fish,  shall  be  taken  or  fished  for 
within  five  hundred  yards  of  anv  fish-wav,  dam,  or  mill-race;  nor  in  the  Penob- 
'^cot  river  between  the  mouth  of  the  Kenduskeag  stream  and  the  water  works 
dam  at  Treat's  Falls,  on  said  river,  nor  between  the  Augusta  highway  bridge,, 
over  the  Kennebec  river,  and  the  Augusta  dam,  between  the  first  days  of  April  and 
November,  except  by  the  ordinary  mode  of  angling  with  single  hook  and  line,  or  ar- 
tificial flies;  nor  shall  hook  and  line  or  artificial  flies  be  used  at  any  time  within  one 
hundred  yards  of  any  fish-way,  dam,  or  mill-race;  but  this  section  shall  not  apply 
to  the  taking  of  alewives  bv  the  town  of  Warren  in  the  Georges  river,  and  by  the 
town  of  Waldoboro  in  the  Medomak  river,  under  the  authority  granted  said  towns 
by  the  private  and  special  laws  of  Massachusetts,  passed  March  six,  eighteen  hun- 
dred aiid  two,  and  amendments  thereto  passed  by  the  legislature  of  this  state. 
The  penalty  for  violation  of  this  section  is  a  fine  of  not  more  than  fifty  nor  less- 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDEllNESS. 


275 


than  ten  dollars  for  each  offence,  and  a  further  fine  of  ten  dollars  for  each  salmon, 
and  one  dollar  for  each  shad  so  taken.    [Approved  March  7,  1887. J 

Sect.  10.  There  shall  be  a  close  time  for  salmon  from  the  fifteenth  day  of  July 
of  each  year  to  the  first  day  of  April  follovvin^r,  during  wliich  no  salmon  shall  be 
taken  or  killed  in  any  manner,  under  a  penalty  of  not  more  than  tifty  nor  less 
than  ten  dollars,  and  a  further  penalty  of  ten  dollars  for  each  salmon  so  taken  or 
killed.  Provided,  however,  that  from  the  said  fifteenth  day  of  July  until  the  fif- 
teenth  day  of  September  following,  it  shall  be  lawful  to  fish  for  and  take  salmon 
by  the  ordinary  mode,  with  rod  and  single  line,  but  not  otherwise.  [Approved 
February  28,  1880.J 

Skc:t.  11.  No  smelts  shall  be  taken  or  fished  for  in  tidal  waters,  except  by  hook 
and  line,  between  the  first  days  of  April  and  October,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less 
than  ten,  nor  more  than  thirty  dollars  for  each  otl'ence,  and  a  further  penalty  of 
twenty  cents  for  each  smelt  so  taken,  and  all  weirs  for  the  capture  of  smelts  shall 
be  opened,  and  so  remain,  and  all  nets  used  in  the  smelt  and  tom-cod  fishery 
shall  be  taken  from  the  water  on  or  before  the  first  day  of  April,  under  a  penalty 
of  not  less  than  twenty  nor  more  than  fifty  dollars,  and  a  further  fine  of  live  dol- 
lars for  each  day  that  any  sucli  weir  or  net  remains  in  violation  of  law,  but  weirs 
with  catch  pounds  covered  with  net,  the  meshes  of  which  are  one  inch  square  in 
the  clear,  or  greater,  are  not  subject  to  this  section.  But  no  smelts  caught  in 
such  weirs  after  the  first  day  of  April  shall  be  sold  or  ollered  for  sale  in  this  state, 
nor  shall  smelts  caught  in  any  manner,  between  the  tirst  day  of  April  and  the  first 
day  of  October  following,  be  offered  for  sale,  sold,  or  shipped  from  the  state 
under  a  penalty  of  twenty-tive  dollars  for  each  offence;  provided,  however,  that 
dip  nets  may  be  used  between  the  tirst  and  twenty  fifth  days  of  April;  provided, 
further,  that  this  section  does  not  apply  to  smelts  taken  in  the  Androscoggin 
river,  above  the  Merry  Meeting  Bay  bridge,  between  the  tirst  days  of  October  and 
November,  nor  to  smelts  taken  in  the  Penobscot  river  and  its  tributaries,  between 
the  first  and  fifteenth  days  of  April.    [Approved  Marcli  10,  1887. J 

Sect.  12.  Any  inhabitant  of  this  state,  by  obtaining  the  consent  of  the  adja- 
cent riparian  proprietors,  may  plant  oysters' below  low-water  mark  in  any  of  the 
navigable  waters  of  the  state,  in  places  where  tliere  is  no  natural  oyster  bed, 
enclose  such  grounds  with  stakes,  set  at  suitable  distances,  and  extending  at  least 
two  feet  above  high-water  mark,  but  so  as  not  to  obstruct  the  free  navigation  of 
such  waters,  and  have  the  exclusive  right  of  taking  such  oysters;  and  if  any  per 
son  trespasses  on  such  enclosure,  or  in  any  way  injures  such  oyster-beds,  he  shall 
be  liable  in  an  action  of  trespass  for  all  the  damage;  or  if  he  takes  any  oysters 
therein  without  the  consent  of  the  owner,  he  shall  forfeit  not  less  than  twenty  nor 
more  than  fifty  dollars,  or  be  confined  in  jail  not  exceeding  three  months. 

Sect.  13.  There  shall  be  an  annual  close  time  for  land-locked  salmon,  com- 
monly so  called,  trout,  togue,  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  and  white  perch,  in  the 
waters  of  tliis  state,  as  follows,  viz.:  For  land  locked  salmon,  trout,  and  togue, 
from  the  first  day  of  October  to  the  first  day  of  May  following,  excepting  on  the 
St.  Croix  river  and  its  tributaries,  and  all  the  waters  in  Kennebec  county,  in 
which  the  close  time  shall  be  from  the  fifteenth  day  of  September  to  the  first  day 
of  3[ay  following;  and  for  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  and  white  perch,  from  the 
tirst  day  of  April  to  the  first  day  of  July  following. 

Sect.  14.  No  person  shall  at  any  time  catch,  take,  kill,  or  fish  for  any  land- 
locked salmon,  trout,  togue,  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  or  white  perch,  by  means  of 
any  grapnel,  spear,  trawl,  weir,  net,  seine,  trap,  spoon,  set-line,  or  with  any 
device  or  in  any  other  way  than  by  the  ordinary  way  of  angling  with  a  single 
baited  hook  and  line,  or  with  artificial  flies,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  ten 
dollars  nor  more  than  thirty  dollars  for  each  offence,  and  a  further  fine  of  one 
dollar  for  each  flsh  so  caught,  taken  or  killed.  And  all  set-lines,  grapnels,  spears, 
trawls,  weirs,  nets,  seines,  traps,  spoons,  and  devices  other  than  fair  angling  as 
aforesaid,  are  hereby  prohibited  on  the  fresh-water  lakes,  ponds,  and  streams  of 
this  state:  and  when  found  in  use  or  operation  on  said  lakes,  ponds,  or  streams, 
they  are  hereby  declared  forfeit  and  contraband,  and  any  person  finding  them  in 
use  in  said  waters  is  hereby  authorized  to  destroy  the  same. 

Sect,  15.  No  person  shall  take,  catch,  kill,  or  fish  for,  in  any  manner,  any 
land-locked  salmon,  trout,  or  togue,  in  any  of  the  waters  aforesaid  between  said 
first  days  of  October  and  the  following  May,  nor  in  the  Saint  Croix  river  and  its 


276 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


tributaries,  between  the  fifteenth  day  of  September  and  the  first  day  of  the  fol- 
lowing Mayj  or  black  bass,  O.swego  bass,  or  white  perch,  between  the  first  days 
of  April  and  July,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  ten  nor  more  than  thirty 
dollars,  and  a  further  fine  of  one  dollar  for  each  fish  thus  cauglit,  taken,  or  killed; 
provided,  however,  that  during  February,  March,  and  April,  citizens  of  the  state 
may  fish  for  and  take  land-locked  salmon,  trout,  and  togue,  and  convey  the  same  to 
their  own  homes,  but  not  otherwise,  provided,  further,  that  the  provisions  of  tliis 
and  the  preceding  and  two  succeeding  sections  shall  not  apply  to  the  taking 
of  black  bass  from  any  waters  whicli  have  been  stocked  therewitli  for  a  period  of 
five  years.    [Approved  March  1,  1887.] 

Sect.  16.  No  person  shall  sell,  expose  for  sale,  or  have  in  possession  with 
intent  to  sell,  or  transport  from  place  to  place  in  this  state,  any  land-locked 
salmon,  trout,  or  togue,  between  tlie  first  day  of  October  and  the  first  day  of  May 
following,  or  any  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  or  white  perch,  between  the  first  day  of 
April  and  the  first  day  of  July  following,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  ten 
dollars  nor  more  than  fifty  dollars  for  each  offence. 

Sect.  17.  Any  person  or  persons  having  in  possession,  except  alive,  any  land- 
locked salmon,  trout,  or  togue,  between  the  first  day  of  October  and  the  first  day 
of  May  following,  or  any  black  bass,  Oswego  bass,  or  white  perch,  between  the 
first  day  of  April  and  the  first  day  of  July  following,  or  who  shall  transport  from 
place  to  place  within  this  state,  any  land-locked  salmon,  trout,  or  togue,  between 
the  first  day  of  October  and  tlie  first  day  of  May  following,  or  black  bass,  Oswego 
bass,  or  white  perch,  between  the  first  day  of  April  and  the  first  day  of  July  fol- 
lowing, shall  be  deemed  to  have  killed,  caught,  or  transported  the  same  contrary 
to  law,  and  be  liable  to  the  penalties  aforesaid. 

Sect.  18.  The  provisions  of  this  act  shall  not  apply  to  white  perch  taken  in 
any  of  the  tidal  waters  of  this  state. 

Sect.  19.  No  person  shall  introduce  fish  of  any  kind,  except  trout,  fresli  and 
salt  water  salmon,  fresh-water  smelts,  blue-back  trout,  and  minnows,  by  means 
of  the  live  fish  or  otherwise,  to  any  waters  now  frequented  by  trout  or  salmon, 
except  as  hereinafter  provided,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  fifty  dollars 
nor  more  than  five  hundred  dollars. 

Sect.  20.  The  commissioners  of  fisheries  may  take  fish  of  any  kind  at  such 
time  and  place  as  they  may  choose,  and  in  such  manner,  for  the  purposes  of  science, 
and  of  cultivation  and  dissemination,  and  they  may  grant  written  permits  to  other 
persons  to  take  fish  for  the  same  purposes,  and  they  may  introduce,  or  permit  to 
be  introduced,  any  kind  of  fish  to  any  waters  they  may  see  fit. 

Sect.  21.  The  commissioners  of  fisheries  mav  set  apart  any  waters  for  the 
purpose  of  cultivation  of  fish,  and  after  notice  published  three  weeks  successively 
in  some  newspaper  published  in  the  county  where  such  waters  are  located,  no 
person  shall  take,  kill,  or  fisli  for  any  fish  therein,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than 
ten  nor  more  than  one  hundred  dollars,  and  a  further  penalty  of  one  dollar  for 
each  fish  so  taken  or  killed. 

Sect.  22.  Any  person  legally  engaged  in  the  artificial  culture  and  maintenance 
of  fishes,  may  take  them  in  his  own  enclosed  waters  wherein  the  same  are  so  cul- 
tivated and  maintained,  as  and  when  he  pleases,  and  may  at  all  times  sell  them 
for  the  purpose  of  cultivation  and  propagation,  but  shall  not  sell  them  for  food  at 
seasons  when  the  taking  of  such  fish  is  prohibited  by  law,  under  a  penalty  of  not 
less  than  ten  nor  more  than  one  hundred  dollars,  and  a  further  penalty  of  not  less 
than  one  dollar  for  each  fish  so  sold. 

Sect.  2:^.  Any  person  engaged  in  the  artificial  propagation  of  fish  known  as 
trout,  fi  esh  and  salt  water  salmon,  on  any  water  in  this  state,  when  the  parent 
fish  are  taken  from  public  waters  in  this  state,  shall  retain  not  less  than  twenty- 
five  per  cent  of  all  eggs  taken  from  said  parent  fish,  and  cause  the  same  to  be 
properly  cared  for  and  hatched,  and  when  hatched  and  in  proper  condition,  to  be 
returned  to  a  suitable  place  for  such  young  fish  in  the  original  waters  from  which 
the  parent  fish  were  taken,  and  to  cause  said  parent  fish  to  be  returned  to  safe 
locations  in  the  waters  from  which  they  were  taken,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less 
than  fifty  nor  more  than  five  hundred  dollars  for  each  offence.  But  the  provisions 
of  this  section  shall  not  apply  to  cases  in  whicli  the  parent  fish  are  taken  in  the 
manner  and  at  the  time  and  place  permitted  by  law  for  the  capture  of  such  fish 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


277 


for  food;  nor  shall  it  apply  to  any  operations  in  lish-culture  conducted  for  public 
purposes  by  permisj;iou  of  the  commissioners  of  fisheries  of  this  state,  who  may 
atnx  such  conditions  to  tlieir  permits  as  they  may  see  fit,  but  requiring  in  no  case 
less  than  twenty-tive  per  cent  of  the  young  lish  to  be  returned,  as  provided  in  this 
section. 

Sect.  24.  No  person  shall  fish  in  that  portion  of  a  pond  or  other  water  in 
which  fish  are  artificially  cultivated  or  maintained,  by  the  written  permission  of 
the  fish  commissioners,  without  the  permission  of  the  proprietor,  under  a  penalty 
of  not  less  than  ten  nor  more  than  one  hundred  dollars,  and  an  additional  penalty 
of  two  dollars  for  each  fish  so  taken  or  killed. 

Sect.  25.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  all  sherifTs,  deputy-sheriffs,  constables,  and 
police-ofiicers,  as  well  as  tish-wardens  and  their  deputies,  to  cause  any  person  or 
persons  violating  any  of  the  provisions  of  this  chapter  to  be  promptly  prosecuted 
for  said  offence,  either  by  making  complaint  before  some  trial  justice,  municipal 
or  police  judge,  or  by  giving  information  to  the  county  attorney  of  the  county  in 
which  the  offence  is  committed.  Said  sherifis,  deputy  sheriff's,  constables,  fish- 
wardens,  deputy  fish  wardens,  and  police-officers,  shall  be  allowed  for  said 
services  the  same  fees  as  are  now  prescribed  by  law  for  sheriffs  and  their  deputies. 

Sect.  26.  All  fines  and  penalties  provided  for  in  this  act,  unless  otherwise 
provided,  may  be  recovered  before  any  competent  tribunal  by  complaint,  indict- 
ment, or  action  of  debt;  and  in  all  actions  of  debt  commenced  in  the  supreme 
judicial  court,  or  in  the  superior  court  for  the  county  of  Cumberland,  the  plaintifT 
recovering  shall  recover  full  cost,  without  regard  to  amount  recovered.  Judges 
of  municipal  and  police  courts,  and  trial  justices,  shall  have  concurrent  jurisdic- 
tion of  all  offences  described  in  this  act,  when  the  penalty  for  the  offence  com- 
plained of  does  not  exceed  thirty  dollars.  In  cases  where  the  offence  described 
in  this  act  is  alleged  to  have  been  committed  in  any  river,  stream,  pond,  or  lake 
forming  a  boundary  between  two  counties,  or  where  the  fish  are  caught  in  one 
county  and  carried  to  another  county,  the  action,  complaint,  or  indictment  may 
be  commenced  and  prosecuted  in  either  county.  One  half  of  all  fines  and  penal- 
ties recovered  or  imposed,  when  not  otherwise  provided,  shall  be  for  the  benefit 
of  the  party  prosecuting  or  making  complaint,  and  the  other  half  to  the  county 
in  which  the  proceedings  are  commenced  and  prosecuted. 

Sect.  27.  The  provisions  of  this  act  shall  not  apply  to  the  taking  of  blue-bact 
trout. 

Sect.  28.  All  acts  and  parts  of  acts  inconsistent  with  this  act  are  hereby 
repealed;  provided,  however,  that  nothing  in  this  section  shall  repeal  the  laws 
relating  to  the  St.  Croix,  Denny,  Pemmaquam,  Cobscook,  East  3Iachias,  and 
Narraguagus  rivers.  And  this  act  shall  not  apply  to  fish  taken  in  the  weirs  on. 
St.  Croix  river. 

Sect.  29.  This  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved.  [Approved  February  21^ 
1878.] 


Additional  Game-Fish  Laws. 

Chapter  180.  An  Act  for  the  protection  of  Blue-Back  Trout. 
Be  it  enacted,  <&c.,  as  follows  :  — 

Section  1.  No  person  shall  fish  for,  catch,  take,  kill,  or  destroy  any  blue-back 
trout  in  any  of  the  waters  of  this  state,  with  any  net,  seine,  weir,  or  trap. 

Sect.  2.  Any  person  who  shall  violate  the  provisions  of  this  act  shall  forfeit 
and  pay  the  sum  of  five  dollars  for  the  attempt,  and  one  dollar  for  each  and  every 
blue-back  trout  so  taken,  caught,  killed,  or  destroyed,  to  be  recovered  by  com- 
plaint before  any  trial  justice,  one-half  to  the  complainant,  and  the  other  half  to 
the  town  where  the  complaint  is  made. 

Sect.  3.   This  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved.    [Approved  February  23, 


278 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


An  Act  for  the  protection  of  Game-Fish. 
Be  it  enacted^  <fec.,  as  folloivs  :  — 

"  Sect.  1.  Whoever  fishes  for,  takes,  catches,  kills,  or  destroys  any  fish,  except 
in  tide  waters,  with  net,  seine,  weir,  or  trap,  forfeits  twenty-five  dollars  for  the 
offence  and  ten  dollars  for  each  salmon  or  land-locked  salmon;  and  one  dollar  for 
each  and  every  other  fish  so  taken,  caught,  killed,  or  destroyed." 

Sect.  2.  No  person  shall  kill  or  destroy  any  land-locked  salmon  less  than  nine 
inches  in  length,  or  any  trout  less  than  five  inches  in  length,  under  a  penalty  of 
five  dollars  for  the  offence  and  fifty  cents  for  each  and  every  land-locked  salmon 
or  trout  so  killed  or  destroyed.  Any  person  having  in  possession  any  land-locked 
salmon  or  trout  of  less  than  the  above  dimensions  shall  be  deemed  to  have  killed  or 
■destroyed  them  in  violation  of  the  provisions  of  this  section. 

Sect.  3.  No  person  shall  take,  catch,  kill,  or  have  in  possession  at  any  one 
time  for  the  purpose  of  transportation  more  than  fifty  pounds  in  weight  of  land- 
locked salmon  or  trout,  or  of  both  together,  nor  shall  any  such  be  transported 
except  in  the  possession  of  the  owner  thereof,  under  a  penalty  of  fifty  dollars  for 
the  offence,  and  five  dollars  for  each  and  every  pound  of  land-locked  salmon  or 
trout,  or  both  together,  so  taken,  caught,  killed,  in  possession  or  being  transported 
in  excess  of  fifty  pounds  in  weight;  and  all  such  fish  transported  in  violation  of 
the  provisions  of  this  section  shall  be  liable  to  seizure,  on  complaint,  and  shall  be 
decreed  by  the  court  forfeited  to  the  use  of  the  party  prosecuting.  Any  person 
having  in  possession  more  than  fifty  pounds  in  weight  of  the  fish  aforesaid,  shall 
be  deemed  to  have  taken  them  in  violation  of  this  section. 

Sect.  4.  All  penalties  imposed  by  any  of  the  sections  of  this  act  may  be  recov- 
ered in  the  manner  provided  by  section  twenty-six,  chapter  seventy -five,  of  the 
public  laws  of  1878. 

Chapter  181.    An  Act  relating  to  close  time  for  Salmon. 

Section  1.  Section  forty -three  of  chapter  forty  of  the  Revised  Statutes  shall 
not  apply  to  Penobscot  and  Belfjist  bays. 

Sect.  2.  This  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved,  and  shall  apply  to  pending 
suits  and  proceedings.    [Approved  February  14,  1889.] 

Chapter  204.  An  Act  relating  to  Inland  Fisheries. 
Sect.  .30.  This  chapter  does  not  apply  to  fish  taken  in  the  weirs  on  St.  Croix 
river,  and  does  not  repeal  the  laws  relating  to  the  St.  Croix,  Dennv,  Pemma- 
quam,  Cobscook,  East  Machias,  and  Narraguagus  rivers;  nor  does  it  apply  to  the 
taking  of  blue-back  trout;  except  that  no  person  sliall  fish  for,  catch,  take,  kill,  or 
destroy  the  same,  with  net,  seine,  weir,  or  trap,  under  a  penalty  of  five  dollars 
for  the  attempt,  and  one  dollar  for  each  blue-back  trout  so  taken,  caught,  killed, 
or  destroyed,  to  be  recovered  by  complaint.    [Approved  February  19,  1889.] 

Chapter  252.  An  Act  to  regulate  the  Alewive  Fishery  in  Pemaquid  River. 

Section  1.  From  the  first  day  of  May  to  the  fifteenth  day  of  July  in  each  year, 
all  persons  are  hereby  prohibited  from  ifisliing  with  nets,  seines,  traps,  and  weirs 
in  that  part  of  Pemaquid  river  which  lies  between  Pemaquid  falls  and  a  line 
drawn  west  from  the  old  Pemaquid  fort,  for  a  term  of  six  years  from  the  passage 
of  this  act. 

Sect.  2.  All  fishing  for  alewives  at  or  about  Pemaquid  falls  shall  be  restricted 
to  four  days  in  each  week,  and  the  fishing  season  sliall  be  from  tlie  first  day  of 
May  to  the  fifteenth  day  of  July  in  each  year,  and  all  fishing  shall  be  confined  to 
the  falls,  and  under  such  regulations  and  further  restriction  as  the  town  of  Bristol 
shall  decide  upon. 

Sect.  3.  Any  person  violating  any  of  the  provisions  of  this  act  shall  be 
subjected  to  a  fine  of  twenty  dollars,  recoverable  before  any  court  having  juris- 
diction. 

Sect.  4.  Section  fifty-two  of  chapter  forty  of  the  Revised  Statutes  shall  not 
apply  to  eel  fishing  on  Pemaquid  river,  providing  that  any  contrivance  used  in 
the  eel  fishery  does  not  in  any  way  interfere  with  the  passage  either  way  of  young 
iilewives.    [Approved  March  5, 1889.] 


AND  NORTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


279 


Chapter  77.   An  Act  relating  to  Fish-Ways. 
Be  it  enacted,  i&c,  as  follows :  — 

Sect.  31.  The  following  waters  and  their  tributaries  are  exempt  from  pro- 
visions  relating  to  migratory  fishes,  and  the  supervision  of  lish-ways  by  the  com- 
missioners, that  is  to  say,  Uoyall's  river  in  North  Yarmouth;  Sewall's  pond,  or  its 
outlet,  in  Arrowsic,  Nequasset  stream  in  Woodwicli,  so  much  of  the  waters  of  the 
Damariscotta  river  as  are  west  of  the  railroad  bridge,  near  Damariscotta  Mills; 
the  eastern  Tenobscot  river  in  Orland;  all  waters  in  Vinalliaven,  Bluehill,  Tre- 
mont,  Mount  Desert,  Eden,  Franklin,  and  {Sullivan,  Tunk  river  in  Steuben, 
Pleasant  river  in  Washington  county.  East  Macliias  river  and  Cobscook  or 
Orange  river  in  Whiting.    [Approved  February  19,  1889.] 

An  Act  to  amend  chapter  two  hundred  and  sixty-two  of  the  Public  Laws  of 
eighteen  hundred  and  eighty-tive,  relative  to  the  protection  of  tish. 

Be  it  enacted  y  &c.,  as  follows  :  — 

Sect.  1.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  all  persons  who  are  now  or  may  hereafter  de- 
rive special  benefits  from  legislation  for  the  protection  of  fish  in  any  waters  of 
this  state,  in  excess  of  what  is  or  may  be  derived  by  others,  to  publish  such  pro- 
tection by  posting  and  maintaining  notices  substantially  as  hereinafter  provided. 
Said  notices  shall  be  placed  on  the  banks  or  shores  of  such  protected  waters,  not 
more  than  ten  feet  nor  less  than  six  feet  above  the  ground,  in  a  conspicuous 
position;  and  if  on  running  water,  such  notices  shall  be  not  more  than  one  half- 
mile  apart  on  the  banks  of  such  waters;  and  if  on  a  pond  or  lake,  not  more  than 
one  mile  apart  on  the  shores  of  such  pond  or  lake.    [Approved  March  7,  1887. J 

An  Act  relating  to  the  disposition  of  fines  and  penalties  recovered  for  the 
violation  of  the  fish  laws. 

Beit  enacted,  t&c,  as  follows :  — 

Section  1.  All  fines  and  penalties  hereafter  recovered  for  the  violation  of 
chapters  fiftv  and  seventy  five  of  the  public  laws  of  eighteen  hundred  and  seventy- 
eight  and  all  acts  amendatory  thereof,  and  of  all  laws  now  in  force  in  this  state 
for  the  protection  of  fish  and  game,  shall  be  paid  one-half  to  the  complainant  and 
one-half  to  any  game  and  fish  protective  societv  or  other  sportsmen's  association 
which  shall  have  been  organized  under  the  laws  of  Maine,  and  which  mav  be 
located  in  the  county  where  the  said  fines  and  penalties  are  recovered;  provided, 
the  said  society  or  association  shall  expend  the  same  in  the  propagation  and  cul- 
tivation of  trout  and  salmon  for  the  fresh-water  lakes  and  ponds  of  Maine,  to  be 
done  under  the  direction  and  supervision  of  tlie  fish  commissioners.  In  case 
there  may  be  more  than  one  such  society  or  association  located  in  the  county 
vrhere  said  fines  and  penalties  are  recovered,  the  fish  commissioners  shall  desig- 
nate  which  society  the  money  shall  be  paid  to,  or  they  may  cause  the  same  to  be 
divided  between  them.  If  there  is  no  such  society  or  association  in  the  countv 
where  such  fines  and  penalties  are  recovered,  then  such  fines  and  penalties  shall 
be  paid  to  the  state  fish  commissioners,  who  shall  appropriate  the  same  as  they 
may  deem  proper. 

Sect.  2.  All  acts  or  parts  of  acts  inconsistent  with  this  act  are  hereby  repealed. 
Sect.  3.   This  act  shall  take  effect  when  approved. 

Sheriffs,  deputy-sheriffs,  police-officers,  and  constables  are  hereby  vested  with 
all  the  powers  conferred  by  law  upon  game  wardens  and  their  deputies,  and  shall 
be  allowed  for  their  services  the  same  fees  as  are  now  prescribed  for  sherifis  and 
their  deputies. 

Chapter  254.  An  Act  relating  to  Public  Fish  Culture. 

Sect.  61.  They  may,  after  a  hearing,  set  apart,  for  a  term  not  exceeding  ten 
years,  any  waters  for  the  use  of  themselves  or  of  the  United  States  commissioner 
of  fish  and  fisheries  in  the  prosecution  of  the  work  of  fish  culture  and  of  scientific 
research  relative  to  fishes.  The  order  setting  apart  such  waters  shall  be  recorded 
in  the  registry  of  deeds  of  the  county  in  which  they  are  situated.  In  waters  so 
set  apart  they  and  the  United  States  commissioner  of  fish  and  fisheries,  and  per- 


280 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


sous  acting  under  their  authority  may,  in  their  respective  fish-cultural  and  scien- 
tific work,  take  fish  at  any  time  or  in  any  manner,  and  erect  and  maintain  any 
fixtures  necessary  for  such  purposes.  No  other  person  shall  take  or  kill  any  fish, 
or  use  any  implement  for  fishing  therein,  under  a  penalty  of  not  less  than  ten  nor 
more  than  one  hundred  dollars,  and  a  further  penalty  of  one  dollar  for  each  fisli 
80  taken  or  killed;  provided,  however,  that  before  such  hearing  they  shall  give 
notice  tliereof  by  publication  of  their  intention  for  two  successive  weeks  in  at 
least  one  newspaper  printed  in  the  county  where  such  waters  lie.  [Approved 
March  5,  1889.] 

Sect.  3.  Section  seventy-one  of  said  chapter  is  hereby  amended  by  adding 
thereto  the  following  words^,  "  to  the  officer  seizing  the  same,"  so  that  said 
section  as  amended  sliall  read  as  follows  :  — 

**  Sect.  71.  All  boa^s,  implements,  and  materials  used,  and  all  fish  taken  in 
violation  of  this  chapter,  are  forfeited  to  the  officer  seizing  the  same." 

Sect.  4.  Section  seventy-four  of  said  chapter  is  hereby  amended  by  striking 
out  all  of  said  section  after  the  figures  "  seventy-four,"  and  inserting  instead 
thereof  the  following  words,  '*  All  fines  and  penalties  recovered  for  violations  of 
sections  thirty,  forty-one  to  forty-six,  inclusive,  forty-eight  to  fifty-eight,  inclu- 
sive, sixty-one,  sixty-three  to  sixty-five,  inclusive,  sixty-eight,  and  seventy,  shall 
be  paid,  one-half  to  the  prosecutor,  and  the  other  half  and  costs  to  the  county 
where  the  action  is  brought,  or  the  complaint  or  indictment  is  issued,"  so  that  said 
section  as  amended  shall  read  as  follows  — 

•*  Sect.  74.  All  fines  and  penalties  recovered  for  violations  of  sections  thirty, 
forty-one  to  forty-six,  inclusive,  forty-eight  to  fifty  eight,  inclusive,  sixty-one, 
sixty-three  to  sixty-five,  inclusive,  sixty-eight,  and  seventy,  shall  be  paid,  one- 
half  to  the  prosecutor,  and  the  other  half  and  costs  to  the  county  where  the  action 
is  brought,  or  the  complaint  or  indictment  is  issued." 

Sect.  5.  All  acts  or  parts  of  acts  inconsistent  with  this  act  are  hereby  repealed. 
[Approved  March  8,  1889.] 


MAIIVE  LAWS  IN  REGARD  TO  CAMPFIRES. 

Chapter  132.  An  Act  to  protect  Forests  and  Timber  Lands  from  fires,  and 
to  punish  the  unlawful  and  careless  kindling  of  fires. 

Be  it  enacted,  t^^c,  as  folloios  :  — 

Section  1.  No  person  shall  kindle  a  fire  on  land  not  his  own  without  the  consent 
of  the  owner,  under  penalty  of  a  fine  of  ten  dollars  and  costs,  and  to  stand  com- 
mitted until  the  fine  and  costs  are  paid. 

Sect.  2.  If  any  person  shall  kindle  a  fire  in  any  field,  pasture,  or  enclosure, 
forest,  or  timber  land  not  his  own  without  the  consent  of  the  owner,  and  the  same 
shall  spread  and  do  damage  to  any  buildings,  fences,  crops,  cord-wood,  bark,  or 
other  personal  property,  or  to  any  wood  or  timber  land,  he  shall  on  conviction  be 
punished  by  a  fine  of  not  less  than  ten  nor  more  than  five  hundred  dollars,  and 
costs,  according  to  the  aggravation  of  the  offence,  and  shall  stand  committed  till 
the  fine  and  costs  are  paid. 

Sect.  3.  If  any  person  shall  maliciously,  with  intent  to  injure  any  other  person 
by  himself  or  any  other  person,  kindle  a  fire  on  his  own  land,  or  on  the  land  of 
another  person,  and  by  means  of  such  fire  the  buildings,  fences,  crops,  or  other 
personal  property,  or  wood  or  timber  lands  of  any  other  person  shall  be  destroyed 
or  injured,  he  shall  on  conviction  be  punished  by  a  fine  of  not  less  than  twenty 
dollars  nor  more  than  one  thousand  dollars,  or  by  imprisonment  in  the  common 
jail  or  house  of  correction  not  less  than  three  months  nor  more  than  twelve 
months,  or  in  the  state  prison  not  less  than  one  nor  more  than  three  years, 
according  to  the  aggravation  of  the  offence. 

Sect.  4.  If  anv  person  shall  for  any  lawful  purpose  kindle  a  fire  upon  his  own 
land,  he  shall  do  it  at  such  time  and  iii  such  manner,  and  shall  take  such  care  of 


AND   NORTH    MAINE  WILDERNESS. 


281 


it,  to  prevent  it  from  spreading  and  doing  damage  to  other  persons'  property,  as  a 
prudent  and  careful  man  would  do,  and  if  he  fail  so  to  do,  he  sliall  be  liable  in  an 
action  on  the  case  to  any  person  suffering  damage  thereby  to  the  full  amount  of 
such  damage. 

Sect.  5.  Any  person  who  shall  enter  upon  the  lands  of  another  person  for  the 
purposes  of  hunting  or  tisliing,  and  shall,  by  the  use  of  tire-arms,  or  other  means, 
kindle  any  fire  thereon,  shall  be  liable  to  the  penalties  of  the  first,  second,  or  third 
section  of  this  act,  as  the  case  may  be. 

Skct.  6.  Persons  engaged  in  driving  lumber  upon  any  waters  or  streams  may 
kindle  tires  when  necessary  for  the  purposes  in  which  they  are  engaged,  but  shall 
be  bound  to  use  the  utmost  caution  to  prevent  the  same  from  spreading  and 
doing  damage;  and  if  they  fail  so  to  do,  they  shall  be  subject  to  all  the  liabilities 
and  penalties  of  this  act  in  the  same  manner  as  if  the  privilege  granted  by  this 
section  had  not  been  allowed. 

Sect.  7.  The  common  law  right  to  an  action  for  damages  done  by  fires  is  not 
taken  away  or  diminished  by  this  act,  but  it  may  be  pursued,  notwithstanding  the 
fines  or  penalties  set  forth  in  the  first,  second,  and  third  sections  of  this  act;  but 
any  person  availing  himself  of  the  provisions  of  the  fourth  section  shall  be  barred 
of  his  action  at  common  law  for  the  damage  so  sued  for.  And  no  action  shall  be 
brought  at  common  law  for  kindling  fires  in  the  manner  described  in  the  sixth 
section;  but  if  any  such  fire  shall  spread  and  do  damag-e,  the  person  who  kindled 
the  same,  and  any  person  present  and  concerned  in  driving  such  lumber,  by 
whose  act  or  neglect  such  fire  is  suffered  to  spread  and  do  damage,  shall  be  liable 
in  an  action  on  the  case  for  the  amount  of  the  damage  thereby  sustained. 

Sect.  8.  This  act  shall  take  effect  and  be  in  force  from  and  after  its  approval 
by  the  governor.   [Approved  February  28,  1855.] 


MOOSEllEAI). 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


LIST  OF  PRINCIPAL  HOTELS,  PROPRIETORS,  RATES, 
AND  ACCOMMODATIONS  AT  RESORTS  MENTIONED  IN 
THIS  BOOK. 

BANGOR  HOUSE,  Bangor,  Maine.    A.  H.  Chapman,  Proprietor. 

Terms,  $2.00  per  day.    Accommodates  200  guests. 
CHAMBERLAIN  FARM  HOUSE,  Chamberlain  Lake.    A.  T. 

Nutter,  Superintendent.     Good  accommodations.  Reasonable 

prices. 

CHESUNCOOK  FARM  HOUSE,  Lake  Chesuncook.  Leonard 
Hilton,  Manager.   Terms,  $1.00  per  day.   Good  accommodations. 

COLBY  HOUSE,  Moose  River,  Maine.  Mrs.  Nancy  Colby, 
Proprietor.  Terms,  $1.50  per  day,  $5.00  to  $7.00  per  week. 
Accommodates  12  guests. 

DIRIGO  HOUSE,  North  New  Portland,  Maine.  Quint  Broth- 
ers, Proprietors.    Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  $10.00  per  week. 

EVELETH  HOUSE,  Greenville,  Maine.  John  H.  Eveleth, 
Proprietor.  Terms,  $2.00  per  day;  transient,  $7.00  to  $10.00  per 
week.    Accommodates  50  guests. 

FORKS  HOTEL,  Forks  of  the  Kennebec,  Maine.  J.  H.  Frain, 
Proprietor.  $2.00  per  day,  $7.00  per  week.  Accommodates  100 
guests. 

HOTEL  HESELTON,  Skow^hegan,  Maine.  Frank  B.  Heselton, 
Proprietor;  W.  H.  and  E.  C.  Ht^selton,  Managers.  Terms,  $2.00 
per  day,  $7.00  to  $14.00  per  week.    Accommodates  100  guests. 

HOTEL  WEST,  Greenville  Junction,  Maine.  Amos  H.  Walker, 
Proprietor.  Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  $7.00  to  $10.00  per  week. 
Accommodates  50  guests. 

LAKE  HEBRON  HOTEL,  Monson,  Maine.  W.  S.  Knight,  Pro- 
prietor.   Terms,  $2.00  to  $2.50  per  day.    Accommodates  75  guests. 

LAKE  HOUSE,  Greenville,  Maine.  Charles  H.  Sawyer,  Pro- 
prietor. Terms,  $2.00  per  day;  transient,  $7.00  to  $10.00  per 
week.    Accommodates  75  guests. 

283 


284 


GUIDE   TO   MOOSEHEAD  LAKE. 


LUCE  FAKM  HOUSE,  West  Branch.    George  C.  Luce,  Proprietor, 

Terms,  $1.50  per  day.    Good  accommodations. 
MOUNT  KINEO  HOUSE,  Moosehead  Lake,  Maine.    O.  A. 

Deiinen,   Superintendent.     Terms,   $2.50  per  day;  transient, 

$10.00  to  $15.00  per  week.     Accommodates  from  200  to  250 

guests. 

NEWTON  HOUSE,  Moose  River,  Maine.  David  C.  Pierce, 
Proprietor.  Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  $7.00  to  $10.00  per  week. 
Accommodates  25  guests. 

NORTH-WEST  CARRY  HOUSE,  Moosehead  Lake,  Maine. 
Joseph  Morris,  Proprietor.  Terms,  $1.50  per  day;  reduction  by 
the  week.    Accommodates  20  guests. 

OUTLET  HOUSE,  Kennebec  Dam,  Moosehead  Lake,  Maine. 
Henry  I.  Wilson,  Proprietor.  Terms,  $2.00  per  day;  transient, 
$10.00  to  $14.00  per  week.    Accommodates  50  guests. 

PARLIN  POND  HOUSE,  Parlin  Pond,  Maine.  N.  H.  Murphy, 
Proprietor.  Terms,  $1.00  to  $1.50  per  day.  Reduction  by  the 
week.    Accommodates  30  guests. 

PARSONS  HOTEL,  Dead  River,  Maine.  S.  A.  Parsons,  Pro- 
prietor. Terms,  $2.00  per  day.  Reduction  by  the  week.  Accom- 
modates 75  guests. 

PREBLE  HOUSE,  Portland,  Maine.  M.  S.  Gibson,  Proprietor. 
Terms,  $2.50  to  $3.00  per  day.  Reduction  by  the  week.  Accom- 
modates 200  guests. 

SILVER  LAKE  HOTEL,  Katahdin  Iron  Works,  Maine.  Henry 
E.  Capen,  Manager.  Terms,  $2.00  per  day,  $7.00  to  $10.00  per 
week.    Accommodates  50  guests. 

STAGE  HOUSE,  Bingham,  Maine.  A.  F.  Adams,  Proprietor. 
Terms,  $1.00  per  day,  $5.00  per  week.    Accommodates  60  guests. 

WILSON  POND  CAMP.  For  terms,  accommodations,  etc.,  address 
Proprietor  Hotel  West. 

WINNEGARNOCK  HOUSE,  North-East  Carry,  Head  of 
Moosehead  Lake,  Maine!  Mrs.  Simeon  Savage,  Proprietor. 
Terms,  $2.00  per  day;  transient,  $7.00  to  $10.00  per  week. 
Accommodates  30  guests. 

Besides  the  above  houses,  there  are  farm-houses  and  camps  scat- 
tered through  the  Wilderness,  in  different  places,  where  the  sports- 
man will  always  find  a  hearty  welcome. 

Parties  visiting  Lily  Bay  or  Roach  River  will  find  good  accommoda- 
tions at  Lily  Bay  Farm  House,  or  Roach  River  Farm  House,  at 
reasonable  prices. 


CHAPTEE  XX. 


TABLE  OF  FARES. 


Philadelphia  to  New  York,  rail   $2  50 

Philadelphia  to  Boston,  rail  and  Sound  steamers    .       .       .  4  00 
Philadelphia  to  Boston,  steamer,  state-room  and  meals  in- 
cluded   8  00 

New  York  to  Boston,  Fall  River  Line   4  00 

New  York  to  Boston,  all  rail,  Shore  Line       .       .       .       .  5  00 

New  York  to  Portland,  Maine  Steamship  Co.'s  Steamers       .  3  00 
New  York  to  Portland,  rail,  via  Worcester,  Nashua  and 

Rochester   ^7  50 

Boston  to  Portland,  steamer  (night  or  day  lines)     .       .       .  1  00 

Boston  to  Portland,  rail  (limited)   2  50 

Boston  to  Bangor,  rail  (limited)   6  00  4 

Boston  to  Bangor,  steamer   3  50 

Boston  to  Katahdin  Iron  Works,  all  rail  (limited)  .       .       .  7  50 

Boston  to  Katahdin  Iron  Works,  steamer  and  rail  (limited)  .  8  90 

Boston  to  South  Sebec,  all  rail  (limited)   6  70 

Boston  to  South  Sebec,  steamer  and  rail  (limited)  .       .       .  5  25 

Boston  to  Dover  and  Foxcroft,  all  rail  (limited)     .       .  6  75 

Boston  to  Dover  and  Foxcroft,  steamer  and  rail  (limited)      .  5  35 

Boston  to  Monson,  all  rail  (limited)   7  65 

Boston  to  Monson,  steamer  and  rail   6  30 

Boston  to  Greenville,  Mooseliead  Lake,  all  rail  (limited)       .  8  00 

Boston  to  Greenville,  Moosehead  Lake,  steamer  and  rail      .  6  00 
Boston  to  Mount  Kineo,  Moosehead  Lake,  rail  and  steamer 

(limited)   9  70 

Boston  to  Mount  Kineo,  Moosehead  Lake,  steamer,  rail  and 

steamer   7  00 

Boston  to  Moosehead  (East  Outlet),  via  Lennoxville,  Sher- 

brooke,  and  Lake  Megantic,  all  rail  (limited)   .       .       .13  00 
Boston  to  Mount  Kineo,  Moosehead  Lake,  via  Lennoxville, 
Sherbrooke,  Lake  Megantic,  and  Greenville,  rail  and 

steamer   13  75 

285 


GUIDE  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE 


Lennoxville,  P.Q.,  to  Mount  Kineo,  Moosehead  Lake,  via 

Greenville,  rail  and  steamer   $5  55 

Lennoxville,  P.Q.,  to  Bangor,  Me.,  via  Greenville  Junction, 

Moosehead  Lake   8  55 

Portland  to  Bangor,  steamer   2  50 

Portland  to  Bangor,  rail  (limited)   4  25 

Portland  to  Katalidin  Iron  Works,  rail   6  00 

Portland  to  South  Sebec,  rail   5  20 

Portland  to  Dover  and  Foxcroft,  rail   5  25 

Portland  to  Monson,  rail   6  15 

Portland  to  Greenville,  Moosehead  Lake,  rail        .      .      .  6  50 

Bangor  to  Katahdin  Iron  Works,  rail   2  40 

Bangor  to  South  Sebec,  rail   1  75 

Bangor  to  Dover  and  Foxcroft,  rail   1  85 

Bangor  to  Monson,  rail  ^       .  2  80 

Bangor  to  Greenville,  Moosehead  Lake,  rail    .      .      .       .  3  00 

Oldtown  to  Greenville,  Moosehead  Lake,  rail .       .       .      .  2  75 

Greenville  to  Mount  Kineo,  steamer   1  00 

Mount  Kineo  to  North-east  or  North-west  Carry,  steamer     .  1  00 

Oakland  to  Solon,  rail  -     .       .       .  1  50 

Solon  to  Bingham,  stage   75 

Bingham  to  Forks  of  the  Kennebec,  stage      .       .       .       .  1  25 

North  Anson  to  Dead  Kiver,  stage   2  00 

Dead  River  to  Eustis,  stage   1  25 

Skowhegan  to  Forks  of  the  Kennebec,  stage  .       .       .      .  2  50 

Forks  of  the  Kennebec  to  Parlin  Pond,  stage  .       ,       .       .  1  25 

Forks  of  the  Kennebec  to  Moose  River,  stage  .       .       .       .  2  00 

Forks  of  the  Kennebec  to  Sandy  Bay,  stage    .       .       .       .  2  50 

Sandy  Bay  to  St.  Joseph,  P.Q.,  stage   2  50 

St.  Joseph  to  Quebec,  rail   1  25 

Boston  to  Mattawamkeag,  Me.,  rail  (limited)  .       .       .       .  7  60 

Boston  to  Woodstock,  N.B.,  rail  (limited)  .  .  .  .  9  00 
Boston  to  Grand  Falls,  N.B.,  rail  (limited)  .  .  .  .1110 
Boston  to  Edmundston,  N.B.,  rail  (limited)    .       .       .      .12  20 

Round  Trip  Excursion  Tickets, 
Boston  to  Forks  of  the  Kennebec  and  return,  rail  and  stage, 

via  Portland,  Waterville,  and  Skowhegan        ...  13  00 

Rate  from  Portland   10  00 

Boston  to  Katahdin  Iron  Works  and  return,  all  rail      .       .  13  50 


AND  NOKTH  MAINE  WILDERNESS.  287 

Rate  from  Portland   $10  50 

Boston  to  Katalidin  Iron  Works  and  return,  steamer  to  Ban- 
gor, and  rail   11  30 

Boston  to  Monson  and  return,  all  rail   17  (30 

Rate  from  Portland   14  60 

Boston  to  Monson  and  return,  steamer  to  Bangor,  and  rail  .  12  60 
Boston  to  Mount  Kineo  and  return,  rail  and  steamer,  via 

Portland,  Bangor,  and  Greenville   15  00 

Rate  from  Portland   12  00 

Rate  from  Bangor   7  00 

Boston  to  Mount  Kineo  and  return,  steamer  to  Bangor,  and 

rail  ^  .       .  13  00 


The  fares  given  in  this  chapter  are  liable  to  change,  but  are  correct  at  the  time 
the  book  is  published.  All  Round  Trip  Excursion  Tickets  are  good  to  return  on 
until  Nov.  1. 


INDEX. 


Og,  2t 

Abacotnetic  Lake,  254. 
Abbott,  32,  3a,  03. 
Aboljackarmegas  Carry,  239. 
Aboljackarmegas  Falls,  239. 
Aboljackarmegas  Stream,  202. 
Aboljackarmegassic  Stream,  202,  239. 
Agnes,  36. 

Alder  Brook,  137,  253. 
Allagash  Falls,  203. 
Allagash  Lake,  244,  208. 
Allagash  Pond,  208. 
Allagash  Kiver,  261,202,  268. 
Ambajejus  Carry,  240,  241. 
Ambajejus  Falls,  240,  241. 
Ambajejus  I^ake,  240,  241. 
Ambajemackomus  Carry,  201. 
Ambajemackomus  Falls,  201,  239. 
Androscoggin,  17,  18. 
Aroostook  Kiver,  257,  259,  260,  261,  262. 
Ashland,  202. 
Askwith,  40,  148. 
Attean  Falls,  144. 
Attean  Pond,  39,  40,  143. 
Attean  Kips,  144. 
Attean  Stream,  40. 
Augusta,  18,  19,  20,  21. 
Austin  Stream,  132. 
Avalanche  Brook,  211. 
Avery  Brook,  244,  208. 
Avery  Pond,  244. 

B  Pond,  48. 
Baggage,  13. 

Baker  J5rook,  104,  1.37,  155,  254. 
Baker  Lake,  244,  204,  208. 
Baker  Mountain,  40,  48,  132. 
Baker  River,  204,  205. 
Bald  Mountain,  138,  155. 
Bangor,  13,  14,  22,  23,  25,  34,  46,  59,  81, 
200. 

Bangor  House,  23. 

Bangor  and  Katahdin  Iron  Works  Rail 

way,  31,  43. 
Bangor  and  Piscataquis  Railroad,  22, 

31,  33,  43,  50,  00,  73. 
Barren  Mountain,  48,  03. 
Barren  Mountain  Pond,  03. 
Barrett  Brook,  147. 


Bean  Mountain,  141. 
Bean  Pond,  125. 
Bear  Pond,  03. 
Beardsley  Brook,  207. 
Bears,  49,  120,  121. 
Beattie's,  30,  39. 
Beau  Lake,  204. 
Beaver  Cove,  74. 
Beaver  Lake,  258. 
Beaver  Pond,  259. 
Belfast,  22. 

Belfast  and  Moosehead  Lake  R.R.,  24. 
Bell  Pond,  00. 
Benson  Mountain,  63. 
Benson  Ponds,  43. 
Benton,  22. 
Big  Duck  Cove,  155. 
Big  Greenwood  l^ond,  63. 
Big  Gulf  Stream,  147. 
Big  Indian  Pond,  03. 
Big  Island,  183,  252. 
Big  Jam,  207. 

Big  Little  Wood  Pond,  143. 
Big  Lyford  Pond,  48. 
Big  Squaw  3Iountain,  74 
Bill  Fish  Brook,  248. 
Billings'  Falls,  50. 
Bingham,  122,  125,  131,  132,  151. 
Birch  Island,  83. 
Black  Poland,  106. 
Black  Pond,  267. 
Blanchard,  33,  63. 
Blast  Furnace,  48. 
Blethen  Landing,  32. 
Boarstone  Mountain,  43,  63,  64. 
Boat  Excursions,  103. 
Bog  Brook,  147,  253,  260,  262. 
Bog  Pond,  00,  03. 

Boston,  13,  20,  22,  23,  25,  34,  35,  44,  56, 
122. 

Boston  and  Bangor  Steamship  Com- 
pany, 23. 

Boston  and  Maine  Railroad,  13,  14,  15, 

35,  44,  122. 
Botting's  Farm,  260. 
Boundary,  30,  .39. 
Boundary  Lake,  204. 
Boundary  Mountains,  36. 
Bowdoin  College  Grant,  49. 
289 


290 


INDEX. 


Bowlder  Island,  106. 

Bowlin  Brook,  248,  249. 

Bowliii  Falls,  249. 

Brandy  Pond,  125. 

Brassau  Lake,  103,  104,  115,  148,  151. 

Brassau  Stream,  148. 

Brownville,  'SI,  43,  44,  45,  49. 

Brownville  Junction,  46. 

Brunswick,  16,  17. 

Bunker  North  Pond,  60. 

Bunker  South  Pond,  60. 

Burnham  Junction,  22. 

Burnliam  Pond,  74. 

Burnt  Jacket,  83. 

Burnt  Land  Kips,  250. 

Buttermilk  Pond,  43,  63. 

Cabineau  River,  264. 

Canada  Falls,  251,  252. 

Canadian  Pacitic  Railway,  33,  35,  36,  43, 

44,  46,  67,  68,  73,  75,  84,  142,  148. 
Carabassett  River,  125. 

Caribou,  43,  *49,  119,  120,  137,  180,  188. 

Caribou  Lake,  188. 

Carratunk,  133. 

Carratunk  Falls,  131. 

Carratunk  House,  125, 131. 

Carry  Brook,  155,  251. 

Carry  Brook  Landing,  251. 

Carry  Pond,  126,  200. 

Carrying  Place  Ponds,  133. 

Carter  Pond,  63. 

Casco  Bay,  14, 17. 

Casey's,  264. 

Cathance,  18. 

Caucomgomoc  Lake,  243,  244,  267,  268. 
Caucomgomoc  Stream,  185,  243,  244. 
Centre  Poland,  155. 
Chain  Ponds,  133. 
Chairback  Mountain,  46,  48. 
Chamberlain  Farm,  245,  257,  261. 
Chamberlain  Lake,  177,  244,  245,  257, 

261,  268. 
Chase's  Carry,  257,  261. 
Chaudiere  River,  36. 
Chesuncook  Dam,  188. 
Chesuncook  Farmhouse,  185. 
Chesuncook  Lake,  48,  185,  186,  188,  243, 

267. 

Churchill  Lake,  257,  258,  261. 
Clear  Pond,  125. 

ciiti;  101. 

Cliff  Beach,  101. 
Cloutier's,  266. 
Colfee-house  Pond,  63. 
Coffee-house  Stream,  79. 
Colby  House,  142. 
Cold  Brook,  60. 
Concord,  44. 
Concord  Railroad,  44. 
Cooksliire,  36,  44. 
Cowan's  Cove,  106. 
Cross  Lake,  265. 


Cross  Rock  Rapids,  264. 
Crow  Foot  Falls,  250. 
Cumberland  Junction,  16. 
Curtis  Pond,  60. 
Cusabexis  Lake,  186. 
Cushing's  Island,  15. 
Cushnoc,  21. 
Custom  House,  39. 

Dam  Pitch,  251. 

Dead  River,  126,  138. 

Deer,  43,  48,  49,  54,  119,  120,  137,  180. 

Deer  Island.  33,  73,  75,  76,  83. 

Deer  Island  House,  76,  83. 

Deer  Pond,  188. 

Degle's,  266. 

Depot  Farm,  262,  263. 

Devil's  Delight,  102. 

Devil's  Elbow,  261. 

Dexter,  22. 

Dirigo  House,  126. 

Doe  Pond,  60. 

Dole  Brook,  254. 

Dole  Pond,  254. 

Doughty  Hill,  60. 

Doughty  Ponds,  60. 

Dover,  22,  32. 

Duck  Cove  Mountain,  155. 

Duck  Pond,  60,  186. 

Eagle  Lake,  257,  258,  265. 

Eagle  Lakes,  265. 

Eagle  Rock,  105. 

Eagle  Stream,  43,  76. 

East  Branch  Penobscot,  243, 247-250, 260. 

East  Branch  Pleasant  River,  46. 

East  Branch  Stream,  260. 

East  Chairback  Pond,  48. 

East  Cove,  33,  69,  74. 

East  Outlet,  33,  40,  43,  44,  75,  106. 

Ebeenie  Ponds,  45. 

Echo  Basin,  144. 

Echo  Lake,  259,  260. 

Edmundston,  264,  265,  266-267. 

Eighteen  Pond,  60. 

Elliottsville,  63,  64. 

p:im  Pond,  251. 

Elm  Stream,  177,  251. 

Embden,  125. 

Eustis,  126. 

Eveleth  House,  33,  69,  70,  7-3. 

Face  in  the  Rock,  54. 

Falls  Brook,  131. 

Fares,  285-287. 

Farm  Island,  155. 

Fish  River,  264,  265. 

Fish  River  Rapids,  264. 

Fishing,  32,  47,  48,  55,  60,  109,  116,  119, 

126,  133,  134,  137,  141,  143,  144,  155. 
Fitzgerald  Pond,  74. 
Five  Finger  Brook,  263. 
Five  Mile  Island,  21. 
Forks  Hotel,  134,  138. 


INDEX. 


291 


Forks  of  the  Kennebec,  63,  122,  125,  126, 

128,  m,  132,  133,  134,  137,  151. 
Fort  Halifax,  21. 
Fort  Kent,  2(4-205. 
Fort  Point,  24. 
Fort  Richmond,  19, 124. 
Fort  Shirley,  ly. 
Fort  Weston,  20. 
Foss  Pond,  63. 
Fowler's,  241. 
Foxcroft,  32. 
Foxes,  49. 
Fox  Hole,  183. 
Fredericton,  266. 
Freeport,  16,  17. 
Frencliville,  265. 
Frying  Pan  Pond,  63. 

Gardiner,  19,  20. 

Gerrish  l*ond,  76,  79. 

Gertrude  Isle,  103,  148. 

Glazier's  Lake,  264. 

Golen  Rapids,  264. 

Goodale  Pond,  60. 

Grand  Falls,  241,  247-249,  265-266. 

Grand  Fourclie,  266,  267. 

Grand  Pitch,  249. 

Grand  Trunk  Railway,  35,  36,  44,  142. 
Great  Works,  30. 
Green  IMouiitain,  254. 
Greenlief  Pond,  63. 

Greenville,  13,  25,  33,  44,  55,  69,  73,  74,  76, 

77,  78,  79,  82,  83,  84. 
Greenville  Junction,  33,  35,  39,  43,  44,  73, 

74,  79,  82. 
Greenwood  Mountain,  63. 
Greenwood  Pond,  43,  64. 
Griffin's,  266,  267. 
Grindstone  Falls,  250. 
Grindstone  Pond,  63. 
Groveton  Junction,  44. 
Guides,  49,  116,  250. 
Guilford,  32,  63. 
Guilford  Pond,  63. 
Gulf,  31,  49,  50,  53,  54,  55. 
Gulf  Hagas  Stream,  50. 
Gull  Rocks,  87. 
Gulliver  Falls,  252. 
Gulliver  Pitch,  200,  201. 
Gulliver  Stream,  252. 

Hale  Brook,  253. 
Hallowell,  19,  20. 
Hard  Scrabble,  105,  152. 
Harrington  Lake,  189. 
Harrow  Lake,  262. 
Hartland,  22. 

Haskell  Rock  and  Pitch,  248. 
Hatching  House,  102,  103. 
Hathorn's  High  Landing,  249. 
Hay  Brook,  247. 
Haymock  Falls,  258. 
Hay  mock  Lake,  258. 
Heil  Gate  Falls,  78. 


Herman  Pond,  22. 
Hilton's,  137,  142. 
Hog  Back  Island,  84,  106. 
Uolbrook  House,  132. 
Holeb,  39. 

Holeb  Falls,  144,  147. 
Holeb  Mountain,  144. 
Holeb  Pond,  39,  115,  143,  144. 
Holeb  Stream,  143,  147. 
Horseback  Mountain,  46,  48. 
Horse-race,  201-202. 
Hotels,  283,  284. 
Hotel  Heselton,  128,  131. 
Hotel  West,  33,  73. 
Hotel  Weston,  124. 
Houston  Mountain,  63. 
Houston  Pond,  47,  48. 
Hulling  Machine  Falls,  249. 
Hunt  Farm,  249. 
Hunt  Mountain,  249. 
Hurd  Ponds,  244. 
Hurricane  Mountain,  141. 

Indian  Camp,  161. 
Indian  Carrv,  247,  260. 
Indian  Hill,"^76. 
Indian  Island,  .30,  .31. 
Indian  Lodge,  102. 
Indian  Pond,  74,  84,  137. 
Iron-Works  Village,  46,  47,  49. 

Jackman,  40,  141,  142. 
Jacobs  Pond,  60. 
Jaws  of  the  Gulf,  54. 
Jewett  Pond,  125. 
Johnson's  Landing,  74. 
Johnson  INIountain,  i:'8. 
Jo  Merry  Lakes,  45,  -41. 
Juniper  "Pond,  60. 

Katahdin  Iron  Companv,  46,  47. 
Katahdin  Iron-Works,  31,  44,  46,  48. 
Katepskonegan  Falls,  239. 
Katepskonegan  Lake,  239,  240. 
Kennebec,  16,  17,  18,  19,  20,  21,  22,  74, 124, 

125,  127,  128,  131,  132,  138. 
Kennebec  Dam,  35,  75,  84,  106. 
Kenney's  Rips,  183. 
Kineo,'6ee  Mount  Kineo. 
Kineo  Bav,  101,  102,  105,  109,  113,  119. 
Kineo  Cliff,  92,  105,  116. 
Kineo  Junior,  155,  156,  178. 
Kineo  Landing,  105,  109. 
King's  High  Landing,  252. 
Knight's  Farm,  252,  253. 
Knight's  Pond,  63. 
Knox  and  Lincoln  Railroad,  24. 
Ktaadn,  see  Mount  Ktaadn. 
Ktaadn  Lake,  249. 

Lake  Hebron,  56,  60. 
Lake  Hebron  Hotel,  60,  63. 
Lake  House,  32,  33,  69,  70. 
Lake  Megantic,  35,  36,  39,  40,  43. 


292 


INDEX. 


Lake  Onaway,  44,  03,  G4,  68,  73. 

Lake  Seboois,  43. 

Lake  Temiscouata,  264,  266,  267. 

Land-locked  Salmon,  32,  43,  47,  48,  63. 

Lane  Brook,  253. 

Leadbetter  Jirook,  253. 

Leadbetter  Falls,  253,  254. 

Ledge  Falls,  250. 

Ledge  Island,  82. 

Legend,  9:3-96. 

Lennoxville,  35,  36. 

Lexington,  126. 

Lillie  Pond,  60. 

Lily  Bay,  33,  76,  83, 84,  92,  109. 

Lily  Bay  House,  76,  83,  lOD. 

Little  Brassau,  104,  148. 

Little  Duck  Cove,  155. 

Little  Falls,  266. 

Little  Gulf  Stream,  147. 

Little  Houston  Fond,  47. 

Little  Indian  Pond,  63. 

Little  Lane  Brook,  253. 

Little  Machias  Kiver,  265. 

Little  Ragmufl",  183. 

Little  Seboois  River,  249. 

Little  Spencer  Pond,  109. 

Little  Squaw  3Iountain,  74,  75. 

Little  Wood  Pond,  143. 

Lobster  Lake,  174,  177,  179,  180,  182. 

Lobster  Mountain,  155,  174,  177,  178,  179. 

Lobster  Stream,  177,  178,  179,  182. 

Logan  Brook,  252. 

Logon  Pond,  259. 

Long  Lake,  261,  264,  265. 

Long  Pond,  40,  47,  63,  141,  147,  148,  254. 

Long  Pond  Outlet,  64. 

Long  Stream,  141. 

Lookout  Cliti",  55. 

Lookout  Hill,  141. 

Loon  Lake,  244. 

Lowell  Falls,  147. 

Lower  Churcliill  Stream,  147. 

Luce  Farm,  181,  252. 

Madawaska  Ptiver,  265,  266,  267. 

Madison,  124,  125,  131. 

Madison  Pond,  131. 

Maine  Camp-Fire  Laws,  280,  281. 

Maine  Central  Railroad,  13-18,  22,  23,  30, 

43,  56.  122,  127,  242,  250. 
Maine  Game  Laws,  269-272 
Maine  Game  and  Fish  Laws,  273. 
3Iarble  Pond,  63. 
Marsh  Pond,  259. 
Matagamon  Lake,  246. 
Matagamonsis  Lake,  246. 
Matangamook  Lake,  247,  248. 
Matangamook  Mountain,  248. 
Matang-amooksis  Lake,  247. 
Mattawamkeag,  35,  43,  242,  250,  260. 
McFarland  place,  74,  78,  82. 
McKenney's,  40,  143. 
McLarign  North  Pond,  60. 
McLarigu  South  Pond,  60. 


McLellan's  Farm,  263. 
Medway,  250. 

Merry  Meeting  Bay,  17,  18. 
Messalonskee  Lake,  123. 
Messalonskee  Stream,  123. 
Michu  Rapids,  264. 
Mile  Island,  82. 
Millinokett  Lake,  261- 
MilUnokett  Pond,  261. 
Millinokett  Stream,  24L 
Milo,  31,  32,  45. 
Milo  Junction,  31,  45,  46. 
Mineral  Springs,  48  . 
Misery  Sands,  148. 
Misery  Stream,  40,  104,  148. 
Monson,  33,  44,  56,  59,  (»3,  68. 
Monson  Junction,  32,  56,  60. 
Monson  Pond,  60. 
Monson  Railroad,  .33,  56,  59. 
Moody  Islands,  87,  105,  106. 
Moose,  120, 126,  180,  182. 
Moose  Brook,  155,  185. 
Moose  Cliff,  248. 
Moose  Island,  74,  82,  83. 
Moose  Pond,  186. 

Moose  River,  39,  40,  44,  103,  104,  115,  137, 

141,  142,  143,  147,  148,  151,  152. 
Moosehead  Lake,  13,  14,  22-26,  31-35,  39. 

40,  43,  44,  56,  64,  75,  79,  87,  91,  93,  104, 

105,  122,  137,  148,  151,  173,  181. 
Moosehoru  Stream,  177,  182. 
Mooseleuk  Pond,  260. 
Mooseleuk  Stream,  260. 
Morris's,  155. 
Moscow,  132,  1.33. 
Mosquito  Brook,  1.37. 
Mosquito  Pond,  1.33. 
Mount  Abraham,  125. 
Mount  Bigelow,  125. 
Mount  Kineo,  25,  35,  44,  82,  83,  84,  87, 88, 

93,  100,  102,  103,  105,  106,  109,  113,  114, 

115,  116,  151,  152,  155. 
Mount  Kineo  House,  22,  33,  70,  83,  84,87, 

99,  100,  101,  103,  106,  116,  151. 
Mount  Ktaadn,31, 32,  84, 114, 177, 179, 181, 

183,  185,  192,  201,  202,  203-238,  241,  249. 
Moxie,  63. 
Moxie  Falls,  134. 
Moxie  Mountain,  131. 
Moxie  Pond,  63,  1.34,  1.37. 
Moxie  Stream,  137. 
Mud  Brook,  250. 
Mud  Cove,  2()2. 
Mud  Lake,  267. 
Mud  Pond,  63,  244,  245. 
Mud  Pond  Carry,  245. 
Munsungan  Stream,  260,  261. 
Muskrat  Island,  103. 
]\rusquacook  Lakes,  262,  263. 
Musquacook  Stream,  262. 
Mutton  Chop  Island,  106. 
Mystic  Grotto,  101. 

Narrows,  258. 


INDEX. 


293 


Nelhudus  Stream,  177,  252. 

Nesowadiiehunk  Lake,  180. 

Nesowtidnehunk  Stream,  202. 

New  Brunswick  Railway,  265. 

Newport,  22. 

Newton  Ilouse,  142. 

Nickatoii,  250. 

Nigger  Brook  Rapids,  263. 

Norcross  Brook,  177,  180. 

Norridgewoek,  123,  124. 

North  Anson,  124-126. 

North  Bay,  92,  101,  152. 

North  Branch  Penobscot,  253. 

North  Brook,  83. 

Nortli  New  Porthmd,  126. 

North  Squaw  Brook,  74. 

North  Twin  Lake,  241. 

Northeast  Carry,  92,  152,  156,  161,  173. 

Northwest  Carry,  92,  155,  251. 

Norton's,  45 

Oakland,  122,  123,  126,  151. 
Oakhmd  House,  122, 
Old  Canada  Road,  252,  253. 
Ohi  Point,  124. 
Oldtown,  30.  31,81,  242. 
Onaway,  64,  67,  68. 
Ore  Mountain,  46,  47.  48. 
Orono,  30. 
Osgood  Carry,  259. 
Ottawa  House,  15. 
Outlet  House,  40,  83. 
Owl's  Head,  142. 

Painter's  Farm,  260,  261. 

Pamedomcook  Lake,  241. 

Pamolali,  208,  225. 

Parlin  Pond,  138,  141,  142,  147. 

Parlin  Pond  House,  141. 

Parlin  Stream,  147. 

Parsons  House,  126. 

Partridges,  49,  109,  119,  180. 

Passamagamock  Falls,  240,  241. 

Patterson's,  249. 

Pebbly  Beach,  101. 

Pejepscot,  17,  18. 

Penobscot  Bay,  24. 

Penobscot  Brook,  253. 

Penobscot  Lake,  253. 

Penobscot  River,  23,  25,  29,  30,  31,  43. 

Pickerel,  32,  63. 

Pillsburv  Island,  258. 

Pine  Stream,  184. 

Pine  Stream  Falls,  182,  184. 

Piper  Pond,  63. 

Piscataquis  River,  31-33. 

Pittslield,  22. 

Pleasant  Lake,  262. 

Pleasant  Pond,  133. 

Pleasant  Pond  Stream,  133. 

Pleasant  Ridge  Ponds,  133. 

Pleasant  River,  31,  43,  45,  46,  49. 

Pockwockamus  Carry,  239. 

Pockwockamus  Falls,  239. 


Point  Levis,  137,  142. 

Pond  Pitch,  249. 

Portage  Lake,  265. 

Portland,  13-23,  56,  122,  126. 

Portland  Harbor,  15. 

Portland  Steam  Packet  Company,  14. 

Potter  Pond,  03. 

Preble  House,  15. 

Presque  Isle,  265. 

Priestly  Lake,  261,  262. 

Pulpit  Rock,  101,  105. 

Quakish  Lake,  241. 

Quebec,  137,  142,  266. 

Quebec  Central  Railway,  137,  142. 

Ragged  Lake,  188. 
Ragmutr,  183. 
Rankin's  Falls,  50,  137. 
Rankin's  Rapids,  264. 
Richmond,  19, 
Riddle  Pond,  63. 
Ripogenus  Carry,  196. 
Ripogenus  Falls,  195. 
Ripogenus  Lake,  189,  194,  200. 
Ripogenus  Stream,  189. 
Riverside,  21. 
Riviere  du  Loup,  266. 
Roach  Ponds,  76,  109. 
Roacli  River,  33,  76,  84,  109 
Roach  River  Farm,  109. 
Roach  River  House,  76. 
Roaring  Brook,  43. 
Robbins  Hill,  131. 
Rochelle  Mountain,  63. 
Rochelle  Pond,  63. 
Rockland,  24. 
Rocky  Rips,  183,  250. 
Rolling  Dam,  148. 
Round  Pond,  63,  244,  262,  268. 
Rowe  Ponds,  125. 
Russell  Brook,  258. 
Russell  Mountain,  33. 
Russell  Mountain  Pond,  63. 
Russell  Stream,  177,  251,  252. 

Salmon  Fishing,  25,  26,  29. 

Sam's  Pitch,  151. 

Sand  Bar  Island,  84,  106. 

Sandy  Bay,  74,  82. 

Sandy  Bay  Townshio,  137,  142. 

Sandy  Stream,  202,  203,  2.39. 

Schoodic  Lake,  43,  44,  45,  46. 

Scratch  Rips,  250. 

Sears's  Clearing,  183. 

Sebasticook  River,  21,  22. 

Sebasticook  and  Moosehead  Railroad,  22. 

Sebec  Lake,  32,  44,  56. 

Sebec  Village,  .32. 

Seboois  River,  249. 

Seboomook  Falls,  74,  177,  251. 

Seboomook  Island,  251,  252. 

Seboomook  Meadows,  251. 

Seven  Islands.  254,  262. 


294 


INDEX. 


Seven  Mile  Brook,  21. 

Ship  Pond,  43,  63,  64. 

Shirley,  63. 

Silver  Lake,  48. 

Silver  Lake  Hotel,  47,  49. 

Skowhegan,  22,  123,  124,  126,  127,  128, 

131,  137,  142. 
Sloop  Island,  87,  106. 
Slugiindv  Pond,  63 
Smith  Brook,  258. 
Snake  Island,  106. 
Snare  Brook,  268. 
Socatean  Falls,  105. 
Socatean  Point,  155. 
Socatean  Stream,  92,  105,  155. 
Solon,  122,  125,  126,  131. 
Somerset  Hotel,  125. 
Somerset  Railway,  123,  151. 
Soper  Brook,  258. 
South  Branch  Penobscot,  253. 
South  Greenwood  Pond,  63. 
South  Pond,  63. 
South  Sebec,  32. 
South  Squaw  Brook,  74. 
South  Twin  Lake,  45,  241. 
Spectacle  East  Pond,  60. 
Spectacle  West  Pond,  60. 
Spencer  Bay,  84,  109. 
Spencer  Brook,  84. 

Spencer  Mountains,  46,  48,  50,  73,  79,  82, 

84,  103,  109,  114,  155,  174,  177,  178. 
Spencer  Pond,  84,  109,  138. 
Spencer  Kips,  144. 
Spencer  Stream,  92. 
Spider  Island,  84,  106. 
Spider  Lake,  259,  262. 
Spring  Brook,  249. 
Spring  Brook  Gravel  Bed  Falls,  249. 
Spruce  Mountain,  46,  48,  50. 
Spruce  Mountain  Pond,  48. 
Squaghquign  Pond,  60. 
Square  Lake,  265. 
Square  Mount  Town,  63. 
Square  Town,  63. 
Squa-took  Lakes,  267. 
Squa-took  Peak,  267. 
Squa-took  River,  207. 
Squaw  Bay,  83. 
Squaw  Brooks,  74. 
Squaw  Mountain,  74,  75,  82. 
Squaw  Point,  106. 
St.  Francis  Plantation,  264. 
St.  Francis  River,  264. 
St.  Froid  Lake,  265. 
St.  George,  142. 
St.  John,  266. 
St.  John  Pond,  254. 

St.  John  River,  254,  257,  262,  263,  264, 
268. 

St.  Joseph,  1.37,  142. 

St.  Lawrence  River,  245,  266. 

Stage  House,  132. 

Stair  Falls,  248. 

Stevens'  Hotel,  264. 


Stony  Brook  Rapids,  148. 
Strout  Pond,  60 
Sugar  Island,  83,  84. 
Summit  Pond,  63. 
Swan's  Farm,  252. 

Table  Rock,  101,  116. 

Telos  Lake,  245,  246,  247. 

Telosmis  Lake,  245. 

Thatcher  Pond,  60. 

Thorn  Pond,  63. 

Thoroughfare,  258,  260,  261. 

Thoroughfare  Brook,  258. 

Three  Sisters,  102. 

Tliree  Streams,  144. 

Tibbets  Pond,  60. 

Ticonic,  21. 

Toledi  River,  266,  267. 

Tom  Fletcher  Brook,  148. 

Tomhegan  Stream,  104,  155. 

Tourist's  Retreat,  249. 

Traveller  Mountains,  247. 

Trout,  43,  45,  47,  48,  60,  63,  76,  116,  119, 

132,  133,  134,  137,  141,  143,  144,  148, 18% 

245. 

Trout  Brook,  40,  247,  248 
Trout  Brook  Farm,  246,  248 
Trout  Brook  Mountains,  247. 
Trout  Pond,  63. 
Twin  Benson  Ponds,  63. 
Twin  Brooks,  259. 

Umbazookskus  Lake,  244,  245. 
Umbazookskus  Stream,  244. 
Umsaskis  Lake,  261,  262. 
Upper  Churchill  Stream,  147. 
Upper  Coos  Railroad,  36,  44. 
Upper  Munsungan  Lake,  260. 

Vassalboro,  21. 
Veazie,  29. 

W  Farm,  155. 

W  Point,  155. 

Ward  Pond,  60. 

Warren  Island,  182. 

Wassataquoik  Stream,  249. 

Waterville,  14,  16,  21,  126-128. 

Wawhook,  67. 

Webster  Lake,  246. 

Webster  Stream,  246,  247. 

Webster's  Landing,  248. 

West  Branch  Penobscot,  155,  156,  159, 

177,  180,  181,  186,  2.39,  242,  251. 
West  Branch  Pleasant  River,  49. 
West  Branch  Ponds,  48. 
West  Chairback  Pond,  48. 
W^est  Cove,  33,  34,  69,  73,  74,  79,  82. 
West  Cove  Brook,  79. 
West  Outlet,  ^0,  84,  106. 
Westbrook  Junction,  15. 
Westerly  Point,  152. 
Wheatstone  Pond,  63. 
Whetstone  Falls,  250. 


INDEX. 


295 


Whitcomb  Stream,  76. 
White  Cap  Mountain,  40,  48. 
White  Fish,  116,  267. 
White  Perch,  32. 
Williams  Stream,  155. 
Willimantic  Township,  63. 
Wilson's  Hotel,  35,  40. 
Wilson  Pond  Camp,  78. 
Wilson  Ponds,  43,  73,  77,  78. 
Wilson  Stream,  32,  43,  64,  78. 


Winding  Ledges,  264. 

Winnegarnock  House,  173,  174,  177, 180. 

Winslow,  21. 

Woboostoock  Stream,  244,  268. 
Wood  Pond,  40,  143. 
Wood  Stream,  143. 
Woodstock,  265-266. 
Woolastaqueguam,  268. 

Yarmouth  Junction,  16. 


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Maine  Wilderness,"  Illustrated,  etc.,  etc. 


224  pages.    30  Illustrations.    Price  $1.00. 


Can  be  obtained  at  any  Bookstore,  or  will  be  sent  by  mail, 
postpaid  on  receipt  of  price,  by  Jamaica  Publishing  Com- 
pany, Jamaica  Plain,  Mass. 


Second  Edition, 
CAMP  LIFE  IN  THE  WILDERNESS. 

A  story  of  sporting  and  adventures  at  the  Rang-eley  Lakes,  by  Capt, 
Charles  A.J.  Farrar,  224  pages,  paper  cover,  12  illustrations.  Price, 
paper,  50 cents;  cloth,  $1.00. 

This  is  a  delightful  story  of  life  in  the  woods,  and  has  all  the  breezy  fresh- 
Dess  of  an  out-door  narrative.  The  author  is  perfectly  familiar  with  all  the 
places  and  incidents  mentioned  in  the  book,  and  a  twelve  years'  experience 
in  the  Lake  Country  gives  an  additional  interest  to  Capt.  Farrar's  writings. 
A  few  notices  of  the  press  are  appended  below  :— 

"Mr.  Farrar  has  been  a  frequent  contributor  to  the  Forest  and  Stream^  and 
our  readers  are  already  familiar  with  his  pleasant  style  of  narrating  wood- 
land adventures.  The  pages  will  recall  to  those  visiting  the  Rangeley  Lakes 
many  pleasant  days  spent  there,  and  those  who  contemplate  visiting  the 
wilds  will  find  in  Mr.  Farrar's  book  much  practical  and  useful  information." 
— Forest  and  Stream. 

"The  book  takes  the  form  of  a  narrative,  describing  the  actual  experience 
of  a  party  of  pleasure-seekers,  with  numerous  illustrations — sure  to  whet 
the  appetite  for  the  text.  The  Richardson  Lakes  region  is  fast  becoming 
popular  as  a  wilderness  resort — and  has  all  the  advantages  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks,  with  the  added  one  of  being  much  more  accessible." — Springfield 
Daily  Union. 

Can  be  obtained  at  any  bookstore,  or  will  be  sent  by  mail,  postpaid,  on 
receipt  of  price,  by  Jamaica  Publishing  Company,  Jamaica  Plain,  Mass. 


